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Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi Calexp,
     When testing used Expeditions, I suggest you check two often overlooked areas, the suspension and major lube records.

    Around 70k miles, the air suspensions on the 98s(even earlier on some newer models) start to go, i.e. loud compressors, leaking bags. Ford gets a fortune for their parts, but there are super aftermarket perfect replacements for a fraction of the price(Arnottindustries.com)

    About the same mileage, rigs whose owners have neglected to change out transmission, differential front & rear as well as tranfer case fluids with the correct fuilds begin to fail, resulting in costly costly repairs. This one item alone is a key factor for me. If it isn't documented, keep looking. For the price you've indicated, you should be able to find a nice unit, be patient, wait for a solid rig. You'll be able to tell right away by the feel and confirm it by the records
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I know - I only rent from Hertz for that and other reasons now......
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    "Ford gets a fortune for their parts"

    Well, sometimes, it seems like it, but compared to what you'll pay for comparable parts for an import - it's not necessarily always the case. A couple of my recent examples:

    Power steering hose for Lexus: $260
    Power steering hose for Lincoln: $62

    Rear brake caliper for Infiniti: $230
    Rear brake caliper for Lincoln: $65
  • Sorry this is 10 months too late but I know exactly what is wrong. I fixed it this weekend on my 2001 Expedition. You have a leak in your winshield and it does leak onto your GEM which is bolted to the backside of your fuse block. The gem is not broken. The problem is that there is water inside your fuse block and as signals change to the GEM there are voltages going to the wrong pins. Remove your fuse block/GEM, unbolt the GEM, remove the relays, look at the screw holes that the bulkhead connectors bolt to. You need a drill that is THE SAME SIZE as the surrounding metal (about 1/2"). Drill down about 1/4" without hitting the threaded hole too much. This will allow the screw-hole-things to be pushed out through the back. Pry open the fuse block and start removing the plastic plates one at a time. There are lots of metal bars and shapes that need to be kept in place so keep it in order as you disassemble. Dry out each layer with paper towels or air and then spray liberally with WD40 or similar to displace the water. When you are done put it back together and be happy you spent nothing on it. Fix the leaky window or it will come back. note: when you are removing the layers be careful to watch the metal pins that go into the layer below. as you pry up get a long flatblade screwdriver and go under the layer to pry up each pin. When you reassemble the unit the same thing has to happen. sometimes you have to push the pins around to get them in their correct holes. Each plastic plate has a recess for each metal bar so if you get confused, look for a recess that is a similar shape to the metal bar. Good luck. Takes about 2.5- 3.5 hours.
  • I know exactly what is wrong. I fixed it this weekend on my 2001 Expedition. You have a leak in your winshield and it does leak onto your GEM which is bolted to the backside of your fuse block. The gem is not broken. The problem is that there is water inside your fuse block and as signals change to the GEM there are voltages going to the wrong pins. Remove your fuse block/GEM, unbolt the GEM, remove the relays, look at the screw holes that the bulkhead connectors bolt to. You need a drill that is THE SAME SIZE as the surrounding metal (about 1/2"). Drill down about 1/4" without hitting the threaded hole too much. This will allow the screw-hole-things to be pushed out through the back. Pry open the fuse block and start removing the plastic plates one at a time. There are lots of metal bars and shapes that need to be kept in place so keep it in order as you disassemble. Dry out each layer with paper towels or air and then spray liberally with WD40 or similar to displace the water. When you are done put it back together and be happy you spent nothing on it. Fix the leaky window or it will come back. note: when you are removing the layers be careful to watch the metal pins that go into the layer below. as you pry up get a long flatblade screwdriver and go under the layer to pry up each pin. When you reassemble the unit the same thing has to happen. sometimes you have to push the pins around to get them in their correct holes. Each plastic plate has a recess for each metal bar so if you get confused, look for a recess that is a similar shape to the metal bar. Good luck. Takes about 2.5- 3.5 hours.
  • russrrussr Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 EB Expedition with 1,530 miles on it. On 12-6-04, while on a freeway, the engine took off. Braking did not slow it down. Taking it out of overdrive made it go faster. I shifted into second. We hit about 85mph, and almost rearended 2 other cars. When I got it to the side of the road, I turned the key off. Smoke was coming out of all four brakes. I decided to turn the engine on again to see what would happen. The engine lit up and raced past 4,500rpm's before I could turn it off. The dealer found out that there was a defective servo control motor that had the engine go into full power. My wife will not get into this Expedition again. I need to know if anyone else has had this problem.
  • I have a '97 Expedition that is definately possessed... my mechanic even told me to call a priest! It suffers from several of the same symptoms, and they have gotten worse. I noticed, however, that this only happens after or during a rain storm... which got me thinking. I looked under the dash and sure enough - there's a leak and the floorboard was wet. After trying several different things, I found that there is a seam along the firewall near the driver's side A-Post down to where the top hinge for the driver's door connects where water is leaking into the passenger compartment. This water is then dripping onto the fuse panel and GEM module. I also found out that the GEM module controls the front dome/map lights, the lights in the visor mirrors, the REAR windshield wiper, most of the dash warning and information lights, and something to do with the 4x4 system. A tube of caulk and a new GEM module should, and I repeat SHOULD correct the problem - but I haven't been able to get it done since it's been so cold out and I don't have a place to warm the metal up and caulk it.

     

    Try running a hose over the lower corner of the windshield near the door seam for a little while, and see if you have water leaking into the vehicle - near the parking brake and fuse box area... if you do, that's the source of all your problems!

     

    Hope this helps!
  • I am into my second 2003 eddie bauer expedition. the first one i had was a 5.4L It had a strange hum when driving between 50 and 55 MPH , thats the only time it did that, other than the breaks squeaking, i have had no other problems. the technician i talked to about this just said it was just a built in effect and my vehicle was perfectly ok. on the second expediton i have now, it has this hum when i accelerate thru 40MPH, before 40 mph and after 40 mph no hum, only around 40-43 mph. this sounds like maybe the axle but i cant tell if its comming from the trans or axle, other expedition owners tell me the same thing. as far as the brake squeaking goes, the ford tech told me that is the nature of the metalic pads and metalic rotors, only way to stop that is to go to ceramic pads? have you or anyone else experienced this squeak on the brakes and how to stop?? thanks Ford_guy
  • I had posted a earlier problem with my 03 Expedition EB, with the easy exit on the driver's seat not working with the ignition key, which the track and seat and motors were replaced 6 weeks ago which this was the third time they replaced everything. I still advised them I felt it was a electrical problem but no one would listen. This morning I started the car and the interior lights would not go off, the radio would not work, the speed odometer would not register, the SEAT would not work, the entire electrical system was down. This car has 15K miles on it and has been in the dealers garage more than mine. I have filed four formal complaints to Ford, I believe I will start looking at an attorney now. I like the ride and the looks of this vehicle, but really scared that Ford will not back their product when the warranty goes out. Has any one else had any luck with formal complaints with Ford and possibly replacing the entire vehicle.
  • I recently purchased a used 99XLT EXP. with the 5.4 engine and it was doing the same thing. I talked with a friend of mind and he said it was usually a sign that the transmission fluid was breaking down and a simple service should fix the problem. I changed the filter and fluid and shazaaaam! the buzz went away. With 16.5K miles it sounds kind of early but in the past I've always changed transmission fluid at 15k to ensure transmission longevity.
  • Try servicing the transmission with new filter and fluid. This fixed my 99 with 82K on the vehicle.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm betting your Body Control Module is bad from what you said. Ford isn't going to replace the truck yet. I've seen them step up and replace them quite a bit, but more often over a functional safety issue, (bad front end, brake issue, etc.,) than something like you have. As annoying as this is, and it's damn annoying, I'll grant ya, I doubt they'll step up for you yet. Check the lemon law for your state. I wouldn't threaten the dealer with an attorney, then the dealer will just quit trying. It takes the whole thing out of their hands. Keep being persistent with the dealer, but decent while working with them. Remember, the service manager didn't build the damn thing, he just works on it. Try to establish a relationship with him if you can, get him on your side. It helps. Meanwhile, build your file. When you get the lemon law fulfilled, call your lawyer - and then your lawyer will call Ford.

     

    Or maybe, they'll find the component that is screwing with your car, and actually make it a good truck for you in the meantime. And your are right about one thing, after the warranty period is over, no manufacturer is going to back the product - and why should they, the contract period is over. That's the whole agreement.
  • Has anyone else experienced the irritating brake squeaking on the 2003 expeditons? i checked with my dealer, and he told me this was just the nature of the metalic rotors and metalic pads. a few mechanics told me that i could stop it by changing the pads to ceramic? has anyone attempted this? any comments would be appreiciated, thanks Ford_owner
  • Not easy. but it has more of a truck chassis than the mid size SUV's. However i had a friend a few yrs back who flipped a sports car that paralyized him, so anything can flip over. But i am now into my second ford expedition, i feel that it is one of the most safest vehicles on the road. hope this helps
  • In #842 I mentioned a rear end whine and all that Ford has said, and how they plan to fix. Today, the dealer installed a new rear end with heavy duty bearings and no more whine. 5,000 miles from now I will let you know. They have replacement bearings for Expeditions and will replace them free. I also replaced the continental tires with Michelin SUV 17" tires and I like them a lot. Go to TireRack.com, they have a lot of info.
  • I am strongly considering purchasing a 2004 NBX Expediation within the next few days while the rebates are still valid. Are there still problems with the advance trac system? If so, what are the problems. Also, regardless of problem resolution, is it better to get a NBX WITHOUT the advance trac system? Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I think advance trac is great. Used it today to get across a freeway median and control a skid.
  • I have it, last Sat some guy was changing into my lane and I had to do a quick turn so he wouldn't hit me. I think it saved me from spinning out. No problems encountered . I see the light coming on some times when going into a pothole. I would definitely get any safety device on a car that would prevent injury
  • yes i had this same problem on my 2003 eb expedition. try doing this before taking it to the shop. Get some electrical contact cleaner and spray it all in the door latches, really good, that stoped mine, the contact switch that works the door alarm was dirty, that was all tha t was wrong with it, hope this helps
  • Hello nvbanker and gheimur. Thank you both for the replies and advice about the advance trac system. Have you or anyone else experienced or heard of any problems in the 2004 NBX Expedition that I should know about before purchasing? Also, is the new 5.4L engine in the 2005 Expedition better than the current 5.4L engine in the 2004 Expedition? If so, is the difference worth paying more and buying the 2005 Expedition? Thanks.
  • The gas mileage and HP is supposed to be better on the 05 . 300 HP vs. 260HP and I believe 14/18 vs. 13/17. I have had a few minor issues that were fixed. If you can save a few k on the 04 I would get the 04.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    IMO I'm a big fan of the Ford modular V-8. They rarely have any issues and for the number of them on the road since 1992, many with 500,000 untouched miles on em, thats a great record. The
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    3V will be an improvement, no doubt-revolutionary in engine worlds. Simpler than 4V, just as powerful.
  • fx4fx4 Posts: 72
    You might check the infamous front differential if your 2003 Expedition has 4WD. If so, there is a very familiar fix called "S spring" or something (posted on this much earlier). My 2003 Expedition had symptoms very similar to those you describe. But, the problem was completely solved by installation of the "S" spring by the dealer tech. In the early and mid year 2003 4WD Expedition models, the noise or hum comes from the two front axles turning at different speeds when in 2wd or 4wd auto. Thus, a TSB and repair.

     

    Maybe this will help if your problem still exists.
  • fx4fx4 Posts: 72
    One of the big disappointments for my 2004 NBX is the sorry chrome clad steel wheels versus the true chrome steels wheels that came on my 2003 FX4. The Ford dealer guys have already dented a couple of the chrome clad "wheels" simply removing wheel weights to balance wheels. To get these wonderful off-road steel wheels on the NBX you give up the nice XLT aluminum wheels and the tire pressure monitoring. Also the skid plates and steel wheels add vehicle weight to an already over weight Expedition 4wd. Another point to consider is that the NBX was dropped by Ford in October 2004 for the 2005 model year. Despite the 5,760 weight of my NBX, it can nearly be "dirt tracked" as far as the handling goes. Stiffer handling is handy when working hard, towing, off-road, curves, etc. If a softer ride for mom and the kids is priority, skip the NBX.

     

    Note that 2004 and up Expeditions have a new steering ratio at 20.5 or so to 1, versus the earlier 17:1. 20.5 ratio is slower, but still does not cancel benefits of R&P steering that was new in 2003.

      

    At low rpm the 2004 5.4 2v and the 2005 3v feel about the same. But, when you push the 2005 5.4 3v in higher rpm ranges, the 3v is the winner by far. Similar mileage, but the 3v has to have the edge. Overall the 5.4 3v cancels out much of the overweight feel of the Epedition. Skid plates and 5.4 2v make 2004 NBX a quieter runner versus all other Expeditions including E/B.

     

    If I had to shop the 2004 NBX again, I would ship the NBX due to the cheap wheels and go for the 5.4 4WD in XLT, XLT Sport, or E/B and add shocks as desired. Lots of bargains in 2004 E/B if you are going to keep the unit for a while. ( all new 2004s will have free fall in wholesale value as you drive off )

     

    Hey, NBX. Ford guys put a new rear end in my 2004 NBX and the whine is completly gone. But, same old sorry OEM tires to deal with.

     

    P.s. Happy New Year to all.
  • I have a 2003 EB 4x4 which currently has the not so enjoyable 265/70/17 Continental tires on it. I'd like to go with 15" or 16" mag rims and much bigger tires. But I was told by "Just Tires" that the Expedition can't handle rims smaller than the 17" one that came on it.

     

    My questions are these:

    1. Is that true or can I go down to 16" rims?

    2. If it is true, what's the biggest size tires I can put on it witht he 17" rims it came with and not rub or cause problems? and

    3. If it's not true and I can go down a little in size, then what's the biggest size tire I can put on a 16" rim without causing any problems?


    I'm currently looking at the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo and the Michelin LTX M/S.


    Thank you for any and all help you can provide!
  • Can you tell me any more info on the brake pads? I just want to be able to go in and tell them AGAIN about the dust and the pads and FINALLY get some new pads. And I want them for free. I've been compaining about them since I got the truck almost 18K miles ago!

     

    Any and all information you may have would be greatly appreciated!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    What year is the truck?
  • It's a 2003 Expedition EB. Got any suggestions as to what to ask for or just tell the customer service guy at Ford to get the new covers or pads at no charge?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    From what I've heard, there are replacement pads that don't produce the black soot, and the covers work too. I'd be patient, but persistent, and nice. Nice works best, every time, but so does relentless. Ford stepped up on mine no argument and took care of everything no charge, no reason they shouldn't for you too.
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