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Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • So far, So good. Since the transmission replacement, I've not had the problem again.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    If it has the 5.4 look for oil leaks around the head gaskets. If you see any, run away. Or if the engine has just been cleaned, it may be cover-up.
  • On our 2000 Expedition XLT with the 4.6L engine, the transmission had to be replaced because of rough idling and engine revving for no apparent reason.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I guess stranger things have happened, but that makes no logical sense to me.......
  • rodhrodh Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on a 2000 Expedition. The third time now it goes into 4 Low by itself and pushing the button changes nothing. After sitting a while turning differant things off and on it finally clears up. I called ford at 1-800-392-3673 and reported the problem today. As we speak my wife has the problem right now in the parking lot at her work!!!
  • rodhrodh Posts: 2
    The third time this has happeded. My SUV will not come out of 4L. You push the switch and on the display it switched from 4H to 4L but the truck stays in 4L. I read about a recall on the GEM for other models for this module but Ford has not recalled this model and year. The funny thing is each of the three times this has switched by itself my wife had just left a fast food drive through. Wondering if the vehicle is getting RF interferance some how which activates 4L and makes it stick there.
  • fx4fx4 Posts: 72
    just turned in dealer paid for Enterprise rental Ford F-150 with 5.4L 3V that had worst rear-end whine of all.

    2004 F-150 had 25,000 rental miles on it, seemed more like 75,000+ due to nasty condition. Why do people have to take liberties with such nice, new to start with units? Wonder how the rental companies make the numbers work? The above unit had two good sized dents or scrapes and had a rip in the seat. A couple of times I washed and completely cleaned Enterprise units prior to their return--manager about fell over. Ha!
  • I have a 2000 Expedition. Last night when I left work to go to my vehicle, I found it with the lights on. The switch was in Auto. It had been raining all day and the vehicle had been parked for about 10 hours. Once inside, the lights were very bright and the vehicle started without any notice of a battery drain. After a 30 minute drive home in the rain, I parked it in the garage. With the ignition turned off the lights went off in Auto, but then the fan motor in the dash began to run. Turning the key to the "on" position, the fan went off and the lights back on in auto(it was dark enough in the garage) With the key back off the same repeated again. I removed the fuse for the blower and everything was quite. Then the lights would go on and off. I turned the switch to off and the lights stayed off. Next the display on the radio began flashing. At this point I disconnected the battery. This morning the vehicle started after reconnecting the battery and when arriving at work, the same scenario as last night. With the key slightly turned in the ignition, everything appeared to be off. Fearing a possible electrical fire, I left the vehicle with battery disconnected. Any ideas or suggestions on what has suddenly happened to this vehicle while parked alone? Could it be the switch or something more serious?
  • I have a 2000 Expedition XLT 4X4 with about 108k miles on it. I have been very happy with it. However, twice while towing up a grade the top radiator hose has come off at the radiator. This of course in overheating and a mess of radiator water spilling all over etc.

    After the first time it happened I replaced the factory spring-style hose clamps with the more traditional ratchet style clamps. In addition I replaced the hoses and the cap just to be safe.

    The first time this happened I had just had the radiator serviced. I figured that the mechanic probably didn't get the hose and clamp on all the way. Then with the added stress of towing uphill the hose blew off.

    Why the hose blew off a second time after replacing all of the parts is a complete mystery. I did the work myself so that I would be sure everything was done properly. It seems as though if there was too much pressure in the system the cap should be letting go first. Right?

    Has anybody else experienced this problem? I am thinking of double clamping all of the hose connections. Any other ideas?
  • Howdy Richard, I had a 98 5.4 do a similar dance. A sharp Ford Tech from a rural dealership diagnosed and fixed the problem after the city boys tested everything including the security system. in an hour on an interrupted vacation they replaced a faulty starter, and no probs for the last 3 years. who says former Ford New Holland tractor boys can't fix cars?, goo dluck
  • Hi Calexp,
     When testing used Expeditions, I suggest you check two often overlooked areas, the suspension and major lube records.

    Around 70k miles, the air suspensions on the 98s(even earlier on some newer models) start to go, i.e. loud compressors, leaking bags. Ford gets a fortune for their parts, but there are super aftermarket perfect replacements for a fraction of the price(Arnottindustries.com)

    About the same mileage, rigs whose owners have neglected to change out transmission, differential front & rear as well as tranfer case fluids with the correct fuilds begin to fail, resulting in costly costly repairs. This one item alone is a key factor for me. If it isn't documented, keep looking. For the price you've indicated, you should be able to find a nice unit, be patient, wait for a solid rig. You'll be able to tell right away by the feel and confirm it by the records
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I know - I only rent from Hertz for that and other reasons now......
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    "Ford gets a fortune for their parts"

    Well, sometimes, it seems like it, but compared to what you'll pay for comparable parts for an import - it's not necessarily always the case. A couple of my recent examples:

    Power steering hose for Lexus: $260
    Power steering hose for Lincoln: $62

    Rear brake caliper for Infiniti: $230
    Rear brake caliper for Lincoln: $65
  • Sorry this is 10 months too late but I know exactly what is wrong. I fixed it this weekend on my 2001 Expedition. You have a leak in your winshield and it does leak onto your GEM which is bolted to the backside of your fuse block. The gem is not broken. The problem is that there is water inside your fuse block and as signals change to the GEM there are voltages going to the wrong pins. Remove your fuse block/GEM, unbolt the GEM, remove the relays, look at the screw holes that the bulkhead connectors bolt to. You need a drill that is THE SAME SIZE as the surrounding metal (about 1/2"). Drill down about 1/4" without hitting the threaded hole too much. This will allow the screw-hole-things to be pushed out through the back. Pry open the fuse block and start removing the plastic plates one at a time. There are lots of metal bars and shapes that need to be kept in place so keep it in order as you disassemble. Dry out each layer with paper towels or air and then spray liberally with WD40 or similar to displace the water. When you are done put it back together and be happy you spent nothing on it. Fix the leaky window or it will come back. note: when you are removing the layers be careful to watch the metal pins that go into the layer below. as you pry up get a long flatblade screwdriver and go under the layer to pry up each pin. When you reassemble the unit the same thing has to happen. sometimes you have to push the pins around to get them in their correct holes. Each plastic plate has a recess for each metal bar so if you get confused, look for a recess that is a similar shape to the metal bar. Good luck. Takes about 2.5- 3.5 hours.
  • I know exactly what is wrong. I fixed it this weekend on my 2001 Expedition. You have a leak in your winshield and it does leak onto your GEM which is bolted to the backside of your fuse block. The gem is not broken. The problem is that there is water inside your fuse block and as signals change to the GEM there are voltages going to the wrong pins. Remove your fuse block/GEM, unbolt the GEM, remove the relays, look at the screw holes that the bulkhead connectors bolt to. You need a drill that is THE SAME SIZE as the surrounding metal (about 1/2"). Drill down about 1/4" without hitting the threaded hole too much. This will allow the screw-hole-things to be pushed out through the back. Pry open the fuse block and start removing the plastic plates one at a time. There are lots of metal bars and shapes that need to be kept in place so keep it in order as you disassemble. Dry out each layer with paper towels or air and then spray liberally with WD40 or similar to displace the water. When you are done put it back together and be happy you spent nothing on it. Fix the leaky window or it will come back. note: when you are removing the layers be careful to watch the metal pins that go into the layer below. as you pry up get a long flatblade screwdriver and go under the layer to pry up each pin. When you reassemble the unit the same thing has to happen. sometimes you have to push the pins around to get them in their correct holes. Each plastic plate has a recess for each metal bar so if you get confused, look for a recess that is a similar shape to the metal bar. Good luck. Takes about 2.5- 3.5 hours.
  • russrrussr Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 EB Expedition with 1,530 miles on it. On 12-6-04, while on a freeway, the engine took off. Braking did not slow it down. Taking it out of overdrive made it go faster. I shifted into second. We hit about 85mph, and almost rearended 2 other cars. When I got it to the side of the road, I turned the key off. Smoke was coming out of all four brakes. I decided to turn the engine on again to see what would happen. The engine lit up and raced past 4,500rpm's before I could turn it off. The dealer found out that there was a defective servo control motor that had the engine go into full power. My wife will not get into this Expedition again. I need to know if anyone else has had this problem.
  • I have a '97 Expedition that is definately possessed... my mechanic even told me to call a priest! It suffers from several of the same symptoms, and they have gotten worse. I noticed, however, that this only happens after or during a rain storm... which got me thinking. I looked under the dash and sure enough - there's a leak and the floorboard was wet. After trying several different things, I found that there is a seam along the firewall near the driver's side A-Post down to where the top hinge for the driver's door connects where water is leaking into the passenger compartment. This water is then dripping onto the fuse panel and GEM module. I also found out that the GEM module controls the front dome/map lights, the lights in the visor mirrors, the REAR windshield wiper, most of the dash warning and information lights, and something to do with the 4x4 system. A tube of caulk and a new GEM module should, and I repeat SHOULD correct the problem - but I haven't been able to get it done since it's been so cold out and I don't have a place to warm the metal up and caulk it.

     

    Try running a hose over the lower corner of the windshield near the door seam for a little while, and see if you have water leaking into the vehicle - near the parking brake and fuse box area... if you do, that's the source of all your problems!

     

    Hope this helps!
  • I am into my second 2003 eddie bauer expedition. the first one i had was a 5.4L It had a strange hum when driving between 50 and 55 MPH , thats the only time it did that, other than the breaks squeaking, i have had no other problems. the technician i talked to about this just said it was just a built in effect and my vehicle was perfectly ok. on the second expediton i have now, it has this hum when i accelerate thru 40MPH, before 40 mph and after 40 mph no hum, only around 40-43 mph. this sounds like maybe the axle but i cant tell if its comming from the trans or axle, other expedition owners tell me the same thing. as far as the brake squeaking goes, the ford tech told me that is the nature of the metalic pads and metalic rotors, only way to stop that is to go to ceramic pads? have you or anyone else experienced this squeak on the brakes and how to stop?? thanks Ford_guy
  • I had posted a earlier problem with my 03 Expedition EB, with the easy exit on the driver's seat not working with the ignition key, which the track and seat and motors were replaced 6 weeks ago which this was the third time they replaced everything. I still advised them I felt it was a electrical problem but no one would listen. This morning I started the car and the interior lights would not go off, the radio would not work, the speed odometer would not register, the SEAT would not work, the entire electrical system was down. This car has 15K miles on it and has been in the dealers garage more than mine. I have filed four formal complaints to Ford, I believe I will start looking at an attorney now. I like the ride and the looks of this vehicle, but really scared that Ford will not back their product when the warranty goes out. Has any one else had any luck with formal complaints with Ford and possibly replacing the entire vehicle.
  • I recently purchased a used 99XLT EXP. with the 5.4 engine and it was doing the same thing. I talked with a friend of mind and he said it was usually a sign that the transmission fluid was breaking down and a simple service should fix the problem. I changed the filter and fluid and shazaaaam! the buzz went away. With 16.5K miles it sounds kind of early but in the past I've always changed transmission fluid at 15k to ensure transmission longevity.
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