Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

1515254565763

Comments

  • tgohntgohn Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 expedition with 152,000 miles on it. At highway speeds (60-70 mph) when I put the gas pedal to the floor the transmission downshifts to far. The tack jumps to 4000 rpms and the truck does not accelerate. If I let off on the gas a little the transmission upshifts to the correct (passing) gear. Any idea whats going on?
  • I am having this problem with my 2004 ford expedition. The leather in the second row and two front seats is cracking like crazy. I bought it new in late 2005 and I dont know why the leather would crack. In the front seats it has gotten so bad that its already torn! The foam is exposed. Its ridiculous. Should Ford replace it (it has more miles than the orignal warranty covers)? Please help. Email me if you have this problem?!?!
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,019
    A national news magazine is looking to interview consumers who have recently (within the past three months) purchased a large SUV and would like to talk about your decision to purchase that car. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, November 8, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • guestguest Posts: 774
    Did you ever get that vibration problem taken care of?? Having same problem on 1999 expedition.
  • We recently discovered the keypad code in our expedition (The whole under the glovebox if you contort yourself... thing really works!). The keypad comes in handy because we don't have an alarm transponder. And we don't have an owners manual. What are the features it does. We so far realized that

    If you input the code then press 3, all doors unlock;
    If you input the code then press 5, the rear glass opens up;

    Is that all the keypad does or is there more?

    -Cj 2004 Black Expedition Eddie Bauer w/DVD
  • mrsclmrscl Posts: 2
    Hi, I found this info on another Expedition forum site, hope it helps !

    "I just bought a used 03 Expedition, and didn't have the factory keyless entry code.
    After, some google searches, I've found the location on mine. It was located on the passenger side, under the dash. You have to remove the passanger floor foot panel, look towards the fender and you'll see the fuse box. Next to the upper left corner of the fuse box, there is another smaller black box with a white sticker, look for the 5 digit code. This was my factory code.
    Others have posted that it's on the drivers side, but that is for 02 and older."

    Take it easy.
    MrSCL
    :)
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    They stopped using the sticker in 04. now the key code is only available from your dealer.

    Mark.
  • mrsclmrscl Posts: 2
    Yeh, but Autoboy16 has an 03 Expedition, that's why i answered him with my response ! :shades:
  • yup. i was misinformed! :blush: . But what about my question on what the keypad does!

    -Cj
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,616
    press 7/8-9/0 buttons at the same time, to lock all the doors.
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    Im FINALLY, after months and months of complaining about the spongy rack on my '03 Expy, the dealer is finally giving in a warrentying a new rack. Only problem i have is trust. They almost didnt do it until i complained and complained and showed a STACK of papers of work orders for this complaint that ive brought i to multiple dealerships. My question is. . . how can i be sure they actually put in a NEW rack and not a rack from another truck or a quick-fix job???? Is there something i can ask for for proof? Even on the reciept im sure it will have a part number but how can i be sure that part went into MY truck???
    Please give me some advice ASAP. . .
    THANKS GUYS :confuse:
  • I assume you are talking about the p/s rack? I think the '03s use a 'new and improved' ratio rack - it is a slower rack than other years. Maybe you could convince them to order the rack from a newer model year? I think they went back to the original ratio in '04.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Hi All-
    Have a question. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Whenever I close the liftgate (back door), there's a rattle around the door handle/license plate area. However, everything appears to be secure. I cannot make the door rattle when it's open. I have no idea what might be lose or not engaging properly when I close the door.

    The door closes tight and the rattle only occurs during closing, not after the door is closed. Has anyone else experienced this? I guess I expect a solid "thunk" when I close the door. It's more of a nuisance than anything else, but I am fishing to see if it's a warranty item since I still have about 400 miles left on the warranty for this puppy.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • The steering rack is what im talking about. . .
    i just dont want them to take one from another truck or do a quick fix on mine and then warrenty it and collect the $$$ and say they put a new one in mine .. isnt there like a "box top" or like a serial # i can get for the "new" one they put in mine so i can use that if i have a problem with it????? I just dont wanna leave thinking, ok, i got me a new rack. . .and then have problems with it also.
    Thanks
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 470
    Maybe it's just your license plate.
  • well, i got my expy back today after spending a week in the shop for the groaning in the 4x4 hubs and the steering rack. . .
    ITS WORSE THEN WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN
    The groaning is so loud now that i can feel the vibration thru the floorboard. .
    they replaced the steering gear and yes on turning is a bit tighter, but on the straight away, same amount of dead zone/play in the steering wheel. . .no change there.
    i have a STACK of work orders and work thats been done on the Expy since i bought it 8 months ago. . im so over it, i cant take it anymore. . .i have a huge loan with 4+ years to pay on it. . im not gonna go thru this for 4 more years. .
    they better be able to just take it back. . . its not gonna be pretty when i go there on monday. . ugh. . hate to do it cause i love my Expy, but this just validates fords bad reputation and that the dealerships cant and WONT find and fix certain problems.
  • Hello,
    I own a 2006 King Ranch Expedition. It has 7,000 miles on it and today I heard a loud rattle on/around the tailgate. I secured the license plate and the dealer plate frame around it, but it still rattles. I will take it in tomorrow, but I think there is a noise buffer - made of plastic - that runs up and down along the inside of the rear frame - it is about 20 inches long on the left and right hand side of the inside entry way. When the tailgate closes, it rests against these two side panels and I think they can buffer out any rattling.

    When I close the tailgate and then press gently on frame I can hear a rubbing, or clicking noise, on the left side right where the door rests against this plastic strip that is attached onto the inside well of the Exp. frame.

    You can find these two bugger strips just above the rear tail lights on either side of the inside frame.

    I will ask about your problem tomorrow too - I reckon the tailgate weights in between 60 to 100 lbs (??) so it needs to fit just right otherwise it will rattle.

    One of the big challenges SUV makers had - easily by the late 90s' - was dealing with the car-like demands SUV buyers were making. Big SUVs have add-ons that weigh alot and the components that take up space. Over time, these things bend, shift, and even warp (ie., inside plastic door panels).

    Thus far I have only had to replace a rear passenger door window frame strip (a rubber band that seals the space between the inside frame and window). I see, however, that the driver side exterior strip - on the top right hand corner - sits up a little high (as in it wasn't flush to the car frame when they installed it).

    All this to say, I think if you want to buy a good SUV, it is worth walking around the vehicle and equally so, paying close attention to the inside, with a view to picking out those things that are going to warp, crack, shift, and rattle.

    Goodluck!

    Thanks,
    James
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Thanks for the info James. I know it's not the license plate. I removed it, and it still rattles only when I close it. There's no road rattle. It's just a rattle when the door is closed. And everything seems to fit, so it's more of a nuisance than anything else. But I'll take a look at the stuff you mentioned.

    Thanks for your help!
  • Dear Bronsonb,
    Just a follow up to the rattling tailgate. My own situation appears to be resolved. The mechanics placed a load of what looks like colorless grease on the two side latches on the tailgate - when you close it they connect with the main frame via two latch counterparts and a cork sized stopper. They also tightened some screws, but I can't see where exactly. Lastly, they may have added more glue to the two latches that attach to the rear window on the inside from the tailgate frame (you have to look underneath when you pop open the back window to see where the hinge affixes).

    They said uts was standard practice on a rattle like this. My own hunch with your rattle is that it has to do with the top hinges (either on the window or the tailgate), as opposed to a feature that helps the door sit left to right - just thinking about what the physics on opening and closing.

    You may also want to get an estimate - if it isn't more than tightening and slathering the back door in grease (geez, I thought about putting the groceries in and all this guck - I joked that maybe they should have tried bubblegum - but it looks fine and the ride is quiet and I don't expect to get the interior messed up.)

    In short, maybe they will only charge labor (i.e., a half hour), or you may want to tinker with it yourself.

    As a side note, I checked out the 2007 Exp. EL Eddie Bauer and it has a power rear door using a single hydraulic arm on the driver's side.

    I got a trade in estimate on the King Ranch, currently with $44,000 outstanding - with a dealer trade in value of $23,000. This is below the bluebook by about 2k, but it shows the rapid depreciation - explained in part by the 2007 new model year.

    In any event, I am happy with the Exp. and frankly prefer the 4 speed to a 6. I can't say owning this beast surprises me because I knew what I was getting into from the get go - we love the space and safety. Also, I bought a massive warranty (and thus the decision to get it new) - it is a combo of the manufacturer, dealer, and a private company. Because I have relied on it twice already (for this rattle and a warped strip on the interior), I have no regrets.

    Besides, how else can you move thousands of pounds of steel off a red light with car-like performance. In short, I hedged on all this and can't complain. You may be able to get a deal on the labor for a rattle - it shouldn't require a new part as near as I can see.

    Good luck with getting the rattle fixed!
    James
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    James-
    Looks like you and I are the only ones posting anything on this board :P . Thanks for the details on the rattle. It's bugging me from just a "what the heck is doing that" perspective. I'll take your advice and take a look at it.

    The Expy just went out of warranty last week when it topped 36K miles. I don't have the ESP, so it's all on me now.

    I just bought it used in October, and I have been very happy with it. I paid $19,500 for a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition with all the bells and whistles except navigation. It was the best price I could find for one with what I wanted. I spent a lot of time on ebay trying to get a deal, but in the end, those cars were going for what I could pay locally. And why buy off ebay sight unseen if you can get one locally and test drive it.

    But truth be told, I bought this one from a dealer in Mobile, Alabama that my dad has bought several cars from. He deals in high end late model foreign cars and received this Expy as a trade for a used Lexus. He cut me a nice deal and tossed in a new set of rims and tires. It had come with 22" chrome "dubs", which I didn't want to keep (not to mention the fact that the tire pressure monitoring system won't work with chrome wheels). So I sold the 22" rims and tires to my neighbor who sold them to someone else on CraigsList.

    Anyway, as you noted, it's great for hauling stuff. I've used it twice already to haul lumber for two bookcase jobs at our house. It was so nice to fit a half sheet of plywood easily in the back laying flat!

    My boys LOVE the SUV. My 2.5 year old can barely say "Expedition" but he says it every time we head to school. It's nice too in that my 6 year old sits in the "way back" and the 2.5 year old in the middle row. So no fights. Plus that DVD player and wireless headphones have been such a plus for long trips (two so far). We don't let them use it around town.

    I've been averaging 15.5 MPG with mostly city driving, but we managed to get 20 MPG on our last road trip.

    Strangely, I also find myself driving more slowly than with my old Passat wagon. I seldom go over the speed limit, but it could be because this thing weighs a bunch, and I don't want to waste gas just getting her going.

    Anyway, thanks again for all the info!

    Bronson Beisel
  • debiedebie Posts: 1
    Hello, I'm new to this forum. I came looking for an answer to a problem we are having with our 04 Eddie Bauer Expedition.

    It is a new problem to this new season of rain (Fall 06), never happened before.

    When I switch from 2wd to 4awd there is an initial "clank" and I feel the vibration under my feet. Then there is no noise at all, even when I switch it back to 2wd. But, if I then switch back over to 4awd I hear a "clank" again.

    Anyone have any suggestions?
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    The fact that it never happened before may mean that this is a different issue. However, I can describe the TSB I had done to mine, but unfortunately I do not remember the TSB number itself.

    The clank in my front end was due to the fact that the two half shafts driving the front wheels were turning in different directions when in 2WD. The clank is the sound of the one half shaft changing directions as the 4Auto is engaged. The fix was to install an "S spring" or something like that which kept the half shafts moving in the same direction as each other when in 2WD. Once they are moving in the same direction there is no noise at all when 4Auto is engaged.

    I think if you describe the TSB to a service advisor they should be able to find it. I think the TSB updated at least once since I had mine done, but I think it came out in early 2003.

    Karl
  • I bought it brand new in July of '05 and I've loved it since day 1. Last summer on my way to work the engine started running extremely rough and the check engine light came on. I planned to drop it off at the dealership the next day, but when I started it up at work to take it home I got a ton of white smoke out the tail pipe, and it spit water when I hit the gas. I had it towed the 40 miles to the dealership, and they ended up changing the O2 sensor, all the spark plugs, and some of the fuel injectors. Everyone who saw the smoke and spitting water said it was the head gasket (including the service guy at the dealership), but in the end the dealership said that it wasn't. Again, this was over the summer (July or August) and I was at 35k miles.

    A week ago I started to notice that it was idling rough (though not as bad) and then the check engine light came on. I left it at the dealer and they said it was a second o2 sensor, and the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. I'm at 39k miles right now and it's starting to bother me that I'm already starting to have these kind of problems. Is there a reason the O2 sensors are failing at this rate? I get all my services on time, and 99% of my miles are highway. It's pretty much running under ideal conditions. Any suggestions or ideas?
  • I have a 99 expedition, and when it rains, it runs very rough and stalls out. You have to use one foot on the break and one on the gas just to keep it running. Has anyone else had this problem and know the fix?????
  • Is there any way to disable the horn when it honks when you lock/unlock the vehicle with the keyfob?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You should never hear the horn when you hit the unlock button.

    If you hit the lock button once, all the doors lock in silent mode.

    If you hit the lock button twice, you get one horn chirp if all doors are closed securely, two horn chirps if one or more doors is ajar.

    Mark.
  • clupercluper Posts: 4
    I have 275/60/17 size tires on my wife's exp. I just bought falkens and my gas milage went up some.
  • nickponickpo Posts: 1
    I have noticed after driving my 2004 EB Expedition that it makes this "thud" noise in the rear of the vehicle after parking and turning off the ignition. It usually occurs within 10-15 minutes after shutting off the vehicle.

    If you have ever had a thick cookie sheet in the oven and set it to preheat...when the metal hetas up it makes a "thud." It is that same kinf od sound only significantly louder.

    Seems to come from both sides at the rear of the vehicle. There is nothing leaking and mechanically the car drives fine.

    It in 2w drive at the moment...although this occurs in all settings. Any suggestiongs?
  • I am only hitting the button once and it honks everytime! It's so annoying and it brings attention. I push the lock button once and it honks once. I hit the unlock button once and it honks twice! :confuse: :mad:
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Not some aftermarket remote start thingy?
Sign In or Register to comment.