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Ford Expedition Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • just call the dealer with the VIN, they will be able to tell if it has been done.
  • Did you ever get the Gear Shift Lever replace?
    If so can you explained how you did it
    cost time and parts?
  • Thanks for the help.
  • I have an 03 expedition and the drivers side map light is burnt out in the plastic console by the top of the windshield. How do I get the bulb out? I do not see any screws, does the plastic lense cover just pop off or the plastic frame covering it pop off?

    Thanks in advance
  • Anyone?????????
  • gsusigmagsusigma Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Expedition with a cd changer problem. I have seen similar posts re this problem, but no responses. When i press the cd button the message "No CD" displays (although there a cd's in the magazine) and i have not been able to eject the magazine since the problem started. Any suggestions?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,826
    The tips in the How to Remove a Stuck CD guide mostly work on single disc players, but may as well try them. Pulling the fuse to reset the changer is probably your best shot.

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I've had luck getting stuck magazines out by using a piece of shim stock (or a hack saw blade) and going along side the magazine on the long sides to hit the release.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,826
    Great tip, I'll add it to the guide. Do you need two shims (one for each side)? Or can you hit the release on CD magazine from either side (or just one side at a time, if you get my drift). Thanks!

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • It has been a few years since I last did this for my brother in law. If I recall correctly it was just one side. You can rock the magazine a little bit in the slot to see the mechanism and it was easy to release - sort of like using the little pin hole on a CD drive, the magazine pops up as soon as it is freed.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,826
    Thanks - that'll make a handy addition to the guide!

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • shaizmashaizma Posts: 3
    Okay, Friday afternoon my husband and I were looking under the hood of my '03 Expedition topping off the fluids, checking the oil, etc. He was complaining that it was dirty under there so I drove up the street to the car wash. I started the engine and drove straight there so it was still cool. I sprayed degreaser on everything under the hood but was careful to not get much degeaser or water on the battery side. It ran fine down to the grocery store. I was driving home and it was fine then all of the sudden it started shaking while I was at a red light. The shaking hasn't gone away. Then the next day, I tried to start it and it acted like it was having a hard time-almost like the battery was dead. Then the gauges went goofy then back to normal. It did this a few times but hasn't the past few times I've started it. My husband undid the connectors and sprayed them with the air compressor nozzle to help dry them out. Didn't help. Also, the exhaust smells like rotten eggs. Any ideas for us to try? Thanks a million!! :cry:
  • Please forgive the length of this post.

    We have an 05 Expedition with the larger of the two V8's. My wife exited the highway on Saturday and felt a rough idle and thought maybe she was low on gas even though the gauge showed half full. After filling up, the engine would crank but was very difficult to turn over. After getting it to start a huge plume of white and then blue and then back to white smoke came out of the tail pipe and was very - very rough in idle. She brought the vehicle to a Firestone across the street where they initially diagnosed that the #8 cylinder had dropped, the ignition coil, plug, wires and O2 sensors all needed replacing ($985.00). Then upon restarting they realized something much worse must be bad as a distinct knock and more smoke continued to emanate from the engine. The said the engine was running unbelievably rich and tons too much fuel was being let in to the chamber.

    In there opinion the engine would need to be replaced.

    I went to speak with the dealership I purchased the vehicle from (no extended maintenance agreement) and they said it sounded as though this may be related to the Ford issue with Fuel Injectors being stuck open on the same engine as was in my Expedition and also the F150 of that year. They said to be careful to not even try to drive it to the dealership as it might bend rods, etc. Apparently Ford had extended the warranty for the injector and issues caused by stuck injectors which I was still covered on.

    After I went back to Firestone, they agree that the car s/b towed to the dealership (yesterday).

    The dealer called me today and said they were able to determine that the #8 injector was stuck open, they reported it to Ford, Ford instructed certain repairs which after performing them still had the dealer recommending engine replacement.

    Ford has now said they will not approve replacement until the dealer pulls the engine, breaks it down, inspects certain components and reports back to them - at which time they (Ford) may still require an independent inspection before approving. Here is the rub...the dealer wants me to approve the work as I WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR IT IF THE INSPECTION DOES NOT PROVE THE INJECTORS HAD ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS!!!

    This is where I am calling foul.

    It is my opinion that the symptoms, the voluntary Ford warranty extension, and the professional opinions of two different Service Shops (A Ford Dealership "Landers" and Firestone) provides enough just cause to assign cause of damage and if Ford requires the engine be pulled and broken down it should be at their own expense.

    This is the second model Expedition in a row that has had the engine or rear end roll over on me (01 Expedition before this one) and I believe Ford is skirting the edges of a full recall.

    I am very interested if anyone knows of pending civil or class action activity I can join if it comes down to it (certainly hope not though) and if there are any groups within Ford or external - Consumer Reports, Attorney's, etc you would suggest I contact.

    The Expedition is a wonderful vehicle on the inside it just unfortunately has not been very reliable mechanically for me.

    Thanks for your time and any insight you can provide.
    :sick: :mad:
  • Update: - Ford approved a full short block replacement after inspecting the engine. New compression test and Cat Converter test will be done when new engine is complete.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Good for you! I wonder what prompted their change of heart.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gheimurgheimur Posts: 88
    Unfortunately I think you did, I have read caution about spraying either silicone or
    any type of stuff. It may effect the oxygen sensors and screw up the mixture where it will cause the car to run foul. This may have caused the catalytic converter to get fouoed up. I think its better to leave a dirty engine
  • 01expvl01expvl Posts: 1
    Hi, does anyone know how the rear washer fluid line is routed on an 01 Exp.? My rear line is leaking and it drains the tank. It appears to be running along the frame. Is this something I can access to repair/replace?

    When I fill it the fronts work fine, the rear doesn't squirt, the fluid is dripping under fwd and rear end of the running board.

    Your replies are appreciated, Thank you.
  • My brake lights don't work on my 1999 Expedition.The fuse and bulbs are good.There is no power at the bulb holder when I step on the pedel.Any ideas?
  • coach23coach23 Posts: 1
    How can you tell if the bags are blown or if it is the compresser. I now have a low rider but not by choice.
  • check the switch above the arm of the brake pedal
  • paul9250paul9250 Posts: 2
    I own a 1997 Expedition that had the #3 cylinder blowout. Ford has an unadmitted problem with the 4.6 and 5.4 liter Triton V8s. 1997 to 2000 are the early model heads that tend to show the problem at higher mileage. The 2001 to 2003 models are the "romeo" heads and have the problem over a wide range of mileage (as early as 40K miles). After 2003 I believe Ford used heads with regular length threads on the spark plugs but you should check with a Ford dealer to make sure that the Triton engine in the model you're considering has long thread plugs and not short thread plugs.

    For those who have this problem, Ford dealers charge a wide range of prices to fix it. I've called half a dozen Ford dealers in my area and no two were the same. Prices ranged from $800 to $2000. On the lower end, most of the dealers are using a threaded insert repair. There are many kits on the market specifically designed for Ford Triton V8 spark plug thread repairs. (Just goes to show how common the problem is) Helicoil, KD, Lisle and Timesert all make kits. Ford dealers tend to use the Timesert threaded inserts because of two unique features http://www.timesert.com/html/triton_repair2.html . First, Timeserts have a positive locking shoulder. The bottom threads on the insert also lock in place once the drive tool is used to locate it. Other inserts suffer from backing out or in and blowing out again. Of course, there's no guarantee with the Timesert either and the dealer won't warrant the work. I've heard that one Timesert fix has more than 90K miles on it and its still holding.

    I'm an accomplished mechanic so I ordered my own Timesert kit from an Ebay supplier (about $400). If your head is repairable the dealer will typically install the Timesert without removing the heads. If it's not repairable then the dealer will typically recommend a new head (lots of $$). The non-romeo heads generally are repairable. The romeo heads have an additional shoulder that requires a bigger reamer and a shoulder cut. The service tech told me these heads tend to be the ones replaced more often. I'll be tackling the installation on my 97 Expedition this weekend so I'll post a report after I'm done. But, if you're comfortable around and engine bay (and have a step ladder to work on an Expedition) you can probably fix this problem yourself.

    One other thing to note is that the coil pack gets damaged when the plug blows outs. Typically, the tap that hold the coil in place breaks off. Since the coil itself still worked fine I epoxied the tab back on the first time this happened and its held just fine. If you're not into this kind of fix you'll have to buy a new coil pack (also expensive from the dealer - near $200)

    If you have a mechanic repair your blow out then make sure they use the Timesert inserts for the repair. This will give you the greatest chance at longevity afterwards.
  • lugster84lugster84 Posts: 6
    did you figure out how to replace those bulbs? Both of my bulbs are bad.

    Thanks!
  • ebandsheebandshe Posts: 1
    Hi, Did you ever get the growling noise to go away? We are experiencing the same problem. :( We look forward to your answer. thanks..... sheila and eben
  • deb35deb35 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Expedition that seems to have fuel problem. Especially when I am driving at higher speeds or going up hill, it acts like it is running out of gas. I put in a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner but the condition seems to be getting worse everytime I try to drive it.

    I am wondering if anyone can enlighten me about what I can expect the auto repair shop to charge for this and what is the most likely cause of this condition. The 'check engine soon' light came on and off for a day or so and now it is staying on. A couple of weeks ago I ran it out of gas and this problem started after that, so I am thinking it is a clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel injection system.

    The car seems to otherwise be running really good and strong. There are no noises, smells or gauges pointing at anything else suspicious.

    Deb
  • deb35deb35 Posts: 4
    I took my Expedition in to the mechanic and he saw that there was a leak in a metal coolant line that seemed to be leaking water on the spark plugs. He changed the spark plugs and welded the metal coolant line and the car is running a whole lot better but not perfectly. It still seems to have a fuel problem. I am not sure if I have two problems, one fuel and one with spark plugs that were corroded, but the problem is a whole lot better, just not completely resolved.
  • togdentogden Posts: 2
    I am the original owner of a '99 Expedition XLT (4.6L 4x2) and the car has been great except for the past six months. Has 126,000 miles.

    Main problems recently:
    - engine stutter/miss (intermitent) between 40-60mph
    - transmission fluid leak
    - thumping/moaning/creaking (from rear) when backing out of driveway and going over speed bumps
    - very low gas mileage (averaging 11 mpg even with 1/2 of miles on highway)

    I recently had it serviced:
    - for engine stutter/miss: technician couldn't replicate problem in test drive, but they tightened drive shaft linkage and the problem went away for a couple of weeks... now it's back.
    - for transmission fluid leak: replaced gasket at torque converter and driveway leak went away, but now I can smell that sweet scent of tranmission fluid burning off again just a few weeks later.
    - thumping/moaning/creaking from rear end: have not checked into it.
    - low gas mileage: have not checked into it.

    I have read many postings from this website about IGNITION COIL PACKS and REAR DIFFERENTIAL problems.

    Do the symptoms I describe sound related to these types of problems?

    Can low gas mileage be caused by these types of problems? Or should I expect 12 average mpg from a 9 year old large SUV?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Can anyone give togden a hand with his problems? Thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • gniotnl1gniotnl1 Posts: 1
    Our 99 expedition won't start with the key from time to time the theft lights go on and it won't turn over, someone told my husband to start it three times real fast and it'll start, it worked, until yesterday, it won't start at all. What could be the problem?
  • m2008gm2008g Posts: 1
    I have a 97 and had a similar problem. It took a bit of investigating to identify the intermittent problem for me. First the dealer suggested trying both keys to see if I had the same problem as sometimes the key needs to be replaced. That was not it. I noticed that sometimes when it happened, it was not exactly on Park and that if I shifted into Neutral and back into Park it would start. They checked it out and found a screw/bracket missing from the shift cable assembly as I recall. They fixed it and I have not had the problem since. I am not sure if this was related to the TSB issued .
  • thediyguythediyguy Posts: 2
    if the theft light goes off its an easy fix if its the starter relay switch like mine was.as it gets hot it quits starting?its located on the right side firewall just below the rain tray behind a snap in plastic cover.here's a link of what it looks like http://www.autozone.com/R,APP210913/vehicleId,2545102/initialAction,partProductD- etail/store,267/partType,00102/shopping/partProductDetail.htm.hope this helps.
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