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Toyota Camry Owners: Meet the Members

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Comments

  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "My windows fog up the minute I turn off the air con. Even when its cold, I have to run the air in conjunction with the heater. Whats the go?"

    Hello to "down-under" from "up-over"! (I presume the translation of "What's the go?" to the American idiom is, "What's up with that?". :)) Cold weather window fogging isn't unusual at all. The glass areas are subject to constant cooling in cold weather since they're directly exposed to chilled outside air. Glass is a pretty good conductor of heat (or lack thereof). If there's ANY moisture within the cabin, (and there WILL be since our breath is laden with moisture - it's the way our metabolism operates!) The problem is exacerbated further if the outside air is humid or under drizzly and rainy conditions and fresh air is being cycled through the cabin. Ditto if you were caught in the rain and your clothing is wet.) In short, whatever its source, moisture will condense on the coolest surface(s) available - can't be helped. By engaging the A/C compressor, the cabin air is continually dehumidified by directing it to the even colder evaporator coils (just a bit above freezing) which efficiently condense the moisture for ellimination through the heater core/evaporator case drain tube to the ground below. In the American midwest and southeast, particularly noted for VERY humid spring-summer weather, it's common to see a steady stream of condensate dribbling from the heater core/evaporator case drain tube onto the ground under the car while idling on a driveway or parking lot. Your car's A/C-ventilation system is operating properly. But, you might want to test that the drain tube isn't plugged by observing whether there's a drip with the A/C on in humid conditions. If there isn't, clear it with a length of stiff wire. The tube is usually plastic or rubber and extends slightly below bottom of the car near the firewall area. The cooperation of your service shop to use its hydraulic lift makes the job much easier. Please don't crawl under the car if it's only being supported by a tire-change jack. Your first mistake with this arrangement will be your last. (The law of gravity applies even "down-under". . .)
  • G'day, I have a 2002 V6 Camry, which I bought in Aug 2002. I am happy with it apart from a couple of minor problems. I live in a country town and do about 25000miles a year, mostly on country roads and a bit on dirt roads. I did it through a salary sacrafice/lease deal through work and the lease runs out in Aug 2006. I don't know whether I will get another one or not. The performance is good, petrol mileage is a bit of a disappointment, but the lack of clearance is a bit hard to come to grips with, especially on our backroads (holed the auto trans sump,125 miles from the nearest town, $1500 later) and the strange handling from a front wheel drive car is not to my liking. Magic carpet ride on good roads though.

    My windows fog up the minute I turn off the air con. Even when its cold, I have to run the air in conjunction with the heater. Whats the go? I posted this elsewhere, but can't find it.
  • Hello mdgur123 - CCCamry here.
    Just joined the forum - just purchased a 2001 Camry LE Oct. 22nd. Now...my engine light is on. Someone told me it was probably me not screwing in the gas cap tight (came on two days after I filled up). It has been two days since I screwed in on tight and the engine light is still on.
    What advice did you get from your message? Does it cost a lot to get a diagnosis? Your comments welcomed. I love the car, it runs well, only 9,580 miles when I bought it for $9,500! A great deal - I think - now I'm a bit worried.
    Thanks for your help.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Two points (not necessarily in order of importance . . .)

    1> when you replace the fuel filler cap, don't go by what "feels" tight; tighten it until it clicks several times, and don't worry about breaking something - there's a built-in ratchet to allow loud clicking that can be heard over traffic din. When you hear the clicking, that's your cue that the cap is really properly tightened.

    2> most autoparts chain stores (Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Autozone, etc.) will do a fault code read for you free. It only takes a few moments with the hand-held computer reader that plugs into the dash wiring harness. (You can even buy the things, but they're a rather expensive toy for the infrequent use a car owner is apt to give them.) Armed with the codes you can then decide where you want to take your car for service.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    Another option is to disconnect the battery for 30 min or so. You will lose your radio presets and the time and also the check engine light. If if comes back on within a day or so, then you probably have a legitimate problem. If not, it was some intermittant fault that didn't re-occur.
  • shaanshaan Posts: 1
    Hello,
    My name is Shan and i bought a 2001 Camry Solara with 55K miles. Car ran good first time when i drove out of the parking lot of a dealer, but a week later i started hearing rattling noise and wind noise from driver side window. anyone else have this problem? i took it back to the dealer and he assured me that they worked on it, but i don't see a difference.. trunk get flooded during fall because sunroof has tubing that goes through trunk and they were clogged so they cleaned it out.. backlight goes bad almost every other day... I liked it because of reliability because i drive more than 20K a year,b ut i would buy an american over it anytime..
  • rjh1982rjh1982 Posts: 1
    Hey guys. I got my camry back in December of 2000, and it was 500 dollars, it ran great but had 174k miles on it. the owner thought it was gonna wear out. It is now 2006 and the paint needs repainting, a valve cover gasket, and a power steering pressure hose, and a new front seat cover. But something else has me completely puzzled. the engine is loosing power and can not do interstate speeds anymore without the valves shaking like crap, it doesn't have its power, my dad thinks its the timing belt (which has never been replaced) the only major work done to it was a clutch. but the power loss and not able to go fast speeds is really troubling me. I love my camry (even though it has no options except for a/c, not even the dashboard clock is there, just a black piece of plastic to cover the hole from the plant, hehe and no im not kidding) but I love my camry and will never give it up. doing pizza delivery and going from tn to michigan almost every week got those miles up, but the car did get all its minor stuff like oil, plugs, etc done on time, I don't wanna give it up but can someone tell me why the valves shake and the car not able to pull loads, go above 55, and loss of power please! tell me its the timing belt so i can get it fixed, i can't afford to go to toyota dealership in knoxville, they said it would be 400 bucks just to look @ it, Thank you very much p.s. timing belt is original

    Ricky :sick: :( :cry:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I find it impossible to believe you have 502K miles on the original timing belt. (502K miles on the engine without a general rebuild is a stretch, too. ;)) Even if the previous owner replaced the timing belt at its two nominal 60K mile changeout intervals while in his possession, that still translates to a nearly equally unbelievable 382K miles on the current timing belt. In any event the current belt needs changing - NOW, not when it's convenient! Your engine runs poorly because it valves are mistimed due either to stretching, loss of a belt tooth or two, or both. (Given your claimed accumulated miles on this engine, I'm surprised it even runs at all.) You have two choices in the matter:

    1> Continue to operate your car as is and wait for the belt to break outright (shouldn't be long, now...). The advantage to this scenario is that the valve noise will cease immediately. The disadvantage of this scenario is that, 1) if you're lucky, the engine won't run until you have a new timing belt installed, or 2), if you're unlucky, moving pistons will slam into stationary open valves and waste the engine. (Picture your mental state when confronted with the rare thrill of seeing a bent, broken connecting rod sticking out of a recently acquired hole in the side of the cylinder block - miles from the safe haven of home in a neigborhood of questionable ethics at 2:00 A.M.)

    2> Take the chicken way out and have the timing belt replaced immediately. The advantage to this scenario is that the properly timed engine will have its customary power restored.
  • ocwocw Posts: 1
    hey ppl... i recently bought a toyata camry 2.4 model. when closing the front passenger door, i get a shock almost everytime. not sure whether is it a electric shock or a static shock. any ideas?
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    I have had my 05 Camry SE 5sp now for almost 3 yrs and am nearing the end of the lease. I have not seen anything that matches the quality of this car after numerous test drives and visits to new car lots recently. I think the residual price of $11300 is a deal that I cannot pass on. I think Toyota went downhill with the new Camry and I dislike it so much that I would never consider purchasing or leasing one.

    I highly recommend the SE package Camry to anyone considering this year and make. It has a lot of goodies that I really began to appreciate over time. I have enjoyed the 2.4 motor (picked it over the V6) and it is very practical for a number of reasons.
  • My wife needs a new car and really wants a Solara convertible. She has a 2002 Chrysler Sebring now which is a piece of garbage. Worst care we've ever owned. I've found a Solara convertible in my area which is rare. Seems everyone has one and nobody wants to sell/trade-in. Anyway, it's a 2000 with 70K miles on it for $16K. The pics look really good and clean but I'm a bit concerned about the mileage. Normally, I wouldn't consider a car with high miles but Solaras have always struck me as very reliable, well build cars. Should I be concerned with the 70K already on it? What things should I inquire about that relate to the high mileage? How about the price? Is $16K reasonable for a Solara conv. with 70K on it? This car is being sold by CarMax so I'm pretty confident it doesn't have any major problems with it. They've been honest with me so far in rejecting cars I wanted because they found serious issues with them upon delivery.

    Thanks!

    Tim
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi all:
    I own a 2007 V6 Camry XLE which is one year old with 22,000+ miles. (YES, I drive a lot!) The vehicle is serviced by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, (my choice!) ---- The vehicle also has a 6 year / 100,000 mile Toyota "top-of-the-line" exteded warranty.
    I do not have any problems with this vehicle. It is very comfortable and powerful. Based on my experience with this vehicle, I would consider purchasing another Toyota in two years.
    Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • My 06 Toyota Camry suddenly started to make a very loud noise that sounds like valve chatter. Oil level is OK. Any ideas anyone?
    Thanks, Tom
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Need to determine first, whether it is internal to the engine, or an external accessory. The easiest way to do this, is to just take off the accessory belt, and then start the engine. If the noise has stopped, then it's one of your accessories, a pulley, or the tensioner. If the noise still occurs, then you have something major wrong within the engine and you need to get it to the dealership fast.

    Unless you have been beating the engine or running with low oil, it's probably an accessory.
  • Hi all! I recently purchased a 1999 Camry LE. The car has 67,000 miles and so far runs great! This is the first car ive bought that wasnt new. I am getting used to the soft suspension and on cold starts theres a whining sound for about 2 minutes, but this may all be normal. I am very happy with my Camry. It even has a rearview mirror with compass and temp. I will post again if I have any questions and thanks in advance for your input!
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