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Acura RSX Maintenance and Repair

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  • hi,

    i was wondering if anyone has tried "spirited" driving as my dealership puts it...has anyone taken the rpm's to the redline and beyond? what happens at the point? does it harm the engine? if so, why would they allow it to go into the redline? how long can we stay there? any info on the mechanics of the redline would be appreciated...(i just found out that the rsx does NOT shift up automatically when it reaches the redline, so i was just curious as what the mechanics associated with it are)... :confuse:
    thanks in advance...
  • Hmm... As far as I know, it is dangerous to rev the engine beyond redline. The term "spirited driving" technically means driving the car to it's maximum potential, not blow the engine up. If you have an automatic transmission, it shifts up automatically, but I don't know if it does upshift automitally on manual mode. But for manual transmissions, the driver has the capability maximizing the car's power band. However, if the tachometer reaches the redline, the engine will cut in and out, signaling the driver to shift to the next higher gear. This is the rev limiter at work. It is a safety feature that prevents the car from staying at the redline. However, if you are downshifting, the rev limiter would not work. This means that if you mis-shift from 6th to 2nd instead of 6th to 4th at high speeds, the engine would break because the rev limiter doesn't work in this situation. I know someone who mis-shifted and all his gauge lights went on, the car stalled, and the car could no longer run. Hence, just keep it below reline and you'll enjoy your car longer. :)
  • interesting...well, i just read on edmunds.com that the 2002 auto rsx doesn't upshift automatically...i mean they must have found that out by actually taking it beyond the redline, right?...also, since they didn't recommend against it, but rather praised the rsx for not upshifting automatically, i would assume that the car can actually handle being above the redline...its just that when i'm on the highway, taking the car above the redline even for a second or two can make a world of difference when u r trying to out run a potential rival...(or a cop...hehe... :shades: )...anyways, thanks for the reply...i guess i'll just have to live with the fact that i can't enjoy the rsx like the manual... :cry:
  • Last Friday I spoke with a representative from Acura Corp. about the strut noise. According to them.... ur gonna laugh at this: "this is a normal characteristic of the car, and at this time there is no repair, but they will notify me within 30-90 days for a resolution". A friend of mine has a late model rsx 2005 who has had the same problem for over a year, and has complained since the second day of owning the car. Now, unless im stupid, thats over 365 days and no resolution!!!! I got into a major screaming match with the "case manager" and asked to speak to a higher manager for an answer.... no luck, i called back 5 times too! So, I called the original manager back, and i told him this was b.s. - i bought the car without any noises, so therefore the noise is not a "normal characteristic" of the car and I didnt buy it like that. I have been told they wont do anything right now for me, and that the worse thing u can do is to put grease on the strut mounts, it makes the noise LOUDER! so therefore, i have promptly filed a lemon law suit. I've had enough of this b.s. and the "customer satisfaction" claim that Acura has. They won't do anything, so therefore, we're doing the LEMON LAW! on a 2006 RSX, thats sad!!! :mad:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Check the details of the Lemon laws in your state. Here in Florida, it would have to be something that is "a substantial defect or condition is a problem that substantially impairs the use, value, or safety of the vehicle"

    I haven't been following your strut mount noise problem, but I've gotta believe the noise would have to be pretty loud to be a substantial defect. Good luck.
  • Is there any way to start our own Discussion Topic about the problem so all relative posts are in one place. ie: Acura RSX Strut Problems.... I think anyone wanting to buy an '06 RSX would benefit from reading posts from people who are being let down by Acura. Unless Acura comes up with a fix for the problem, I wouldn't recommend this car.
  • http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=278725
    I think Acura is irresponsible concerning this issur!!
  • rsx_varsx_va Posts: 33
    Just curious, how many are experiencing this alleged RSX strut issue? So far we've heard from one person. I'm not experiencing it, but I have an '03.
  • rsx_varsx_va Posts: 33
    5th and 6th are difficult to hit in the RSX-S while sitting stopped at idle -- I think that's because the reverse lockout opens up when the car stops, so it's hard to line up just right with the 5th-6th gate. I don't consider this a defect as long as I can shift into 5th/6th while moving at speed, which I have no problem with.
  • rsx_varsx_va Posts: 33
    First of all, turning the wheel while stopped isn't such a hot idea, because it flat-spots the tires and puts a strain on the power steering system. I'd suspect the "grind" you're hearing is the power steering struggling under the load of trying to turn the wheels of a stationary car. Most PS systems will groan a bit if you attempt this.
  • hi,
    i always was wondering about this: my car usually is outside in the cold during the night...and i usually start it for about 10 minutes to warm up the engine before i take off...the thing i was wondering was if it puts an exceptional load on the engine if we turn the heater on while the car is warming up? i mean the indicator on the left side gauge is still below minimum at this point...just wanted any inputs...i would like to get into a warm car when i am ready to take off...thats all...has anyone done this without encountering any problems? thanks...
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    First of all, turning the wheel while stopped isn't such a hot idea, because it flat-spots the tires and puts a strain on the power steering system. I'd suspect the "grind" you're hearing is the power steering struggling under the load of trying to turn the wheels of a stationary car. Most PS systems will groan a bit if you attempt this.

    That's what I suspected also. Although they said that the noise was coming from the back end.I have not herad back from them on this so I susopect it was a troll.
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    i always was wondering about this: my car usually is outside in the cold during the night...and i usually start it for about 10 minutes to warm up the engine before i take off...the thing i was wondering was if it puts an exceptional load on the engine if we turn the heater on while the car is warming up? i mean the indicator on the left side gauge is still below minimum at this point...just wanted any inputs...i would like to get into a warm car when i am ready to take off...thats all...has anyone done this without encountering any problems? thanks...

    The way the heater gets it's warmth is by warm water/antifreeze mixture that the engine uses. There's a valve (have you heard of a thermostat?)on the engine that pops open when the correct temperature is reached in the engine. When that happens, the water used to cool the engine is also circulated up into the dashboard and through a mini radiator similar to the one on the front of the car. Air is then blown across this mini radiator and out into the compartment.

    So, no, there is nothing harmful in turning your heater on early...unless you fell that cold air is harmful. :-)

    The problem is that the car is not going to get very warm by just sitting there idling. It needs to be worked to get up to some nice hot temperatures and the only way to do that is to drive it. You will still get some heat out of the heater...enough to get the chill out and to melt the ice on the windows, but nothing like if you drove it.
  • rsx_varsx_va Posts: 33
    Unlike running the AC, running the heater puts no extra load on the engine at all, just redirects some of the naturally occurring engine heat.

    But warming up the car for 10 minutes is completely unnecessary, and just wastes gas. Even in the coldest weather, you can start it up, let it idle for 15-30 seconds, then take off. Drive it gently until the engine begins to warm up. You'll warm the car faster this way and use less gas. Put on a pair of gloves for the first five minutes of driving to be more comfortable.
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    The warm up time depends on where you live. Here in New England, I often have a 1/16 to an 1/8 inch of ice to scrape off. Letting the car warm up for 5 minutes during these times allows the ice to soften enough to scrape it off.
  • True. It depends on where you live, and it is not a requirement to heat up the engine nowadays due to the EFI, unless the car is using a carburetor. I warm it up for safety reasons because I don't want to drive with the windshield all fogged up. I believe you can get a ticket for that if a cop sees you driving around with an obstructed windshield. But during Spring or Summer, just turn the key and drive! :)
  • I was wondering if any other RSX's have a whining problem. There is a noise that comes from the engine and varies with rpm's, as you increase your rpm's the whining pitch gets higher. It sounds like when you are going at a high rate of speed in reverse, but I'm headed in the forward direction. Another explanation of the sound is it's like I think a turbo would sound as it was winding up. I don't know what this noise is, nor do I know why it would be doing this. Any explanations you can think of?

    Also, the strut problem that is floating around. Is that mainly a front strut problem or a rear strut problem? Reason for asking, wondering if a noice is coming from the rear strut or from the hatch just being loose.
  • rsx_varsx_va Posts: 33
    I have noticed a rather strong whine, or high-pitched mechanical drone, that seems to come from the transmission tunnel of my RSX S. The noise is similar to a car running in reverse, but not as loud or grating, and varies with RPM as you said, but only while the car is in gear. I chalked it up to poor cabin insulation, one of the cost-cutting measures Acura apparently used to keep this car's price low.
  • I am beginning to realize that the 2nd gear synchro grind is caused by bad shift-timing. I am getting to know my car more,and so far after 4 months of having my 05 Type-S, I've never had any 2nd gear synchro grind on any single day for 2 months. Somehow, Honda's 6-speed close ratio gear box can't be driven in the same manner that a driver has gotten used to in a different car. After driving a 97 Mitsubishi Mirage for 7 years, I've gotten used to the way that car feels and how it drives. Hence, I've passed that driving manner on to my 05 Type-S, which I believe caused the 2nd gear synchro grinding in the first place. I could be wrong. I'm just expressing my thoughts hoping that there are other RSX Type-S owners who have the same experience. Your feedback is very much welcome. :)
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