Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford F-150 Owners

18911131419

Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I do not see the temperature sending unit on your list of replaced parts. Is the engine overheating to the point where you see steam coming out? Or is it just higher than normal indicated temperature on your coolant temperature gauge? Replace the temperature sender and see what happens.

    As far as A/C malfunction goes, you may have a vacuum leak or a split vacuum hose that controls the A/C system flaps or doors. If they are solenoid controlled, check the solenoids for proper function.
  • I have a 2001 F150 7700 with disk brakes. the emergency brake cables are free and mowe and pull the lever on the wheels to apply the brakes but the cables are so loose there is not enough travel to have the break engage. there is no adjustment on the cables or can I see any on the wheel. I have been told it is on the emergency brake pedle but can see nothing there can any one advise me?
  • joel0622joel0622 Posts: 3,302
    Lets say you drive 15K per year. A year from now with 05 you will have a low milage 05 instead of an average mile 06
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    Was wondering if anyone here has a hard tonneau cover for thier trucks? I am looking at getting one for my 2005 SuperCrew. I do not do much hauling of big items and a cover would make my truck more suited for trips and running multiple errands at one time since I would be able to lock things under the cover. I hear the mpg goes up about 1.5 mpg as well. I guess that would be worth a couple of dollars per tank as a bonus. Any comments?
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    You are correct about the miles. Also, the salesman was correct--if you're going to keep the truck for a long time, it won't matter that you bought it a year old.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Apparently the gentlemen DID get 10K off MSRP (see post #3). I hope you really don't think that his "..actual cash value will definetly be worth more than what you paid". If you do, can we get his address so your dealership could send him a check and buy this now used vehicle?

    Incidentally, is there really a dealership named Bubba Oustlet Ford or is this some kind of Cajun joke?
  • don't know exactly where to go to post a new message/question...got a '93 F150 4-wheeler...replaced light switch but still lights only stay on before they (headlights only)start blinking on 'n off...cheked wiring 'n ground a million times (OK!!...a thousand times!!)...all other lights OK...only headlights won't stay on...it seems as soon as they get a little "warm", they start blinking on 'n off...I understand there is not a separate relay for these headlights...it is NOT a loose wire or short as this has been cheked several times...also it doesn't matter weather you hit a pothole or not...it doesn't affect the blinking of the headlights...thanks to anyone with a possible solution!!... :-)
  • I keep gettin' the info that itz the light switch even tho I replaced it...someone sez its not too unusual to get a bad "new" part (especially from Autozone!!)...AFFORDABLE
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I don't have my shop manual at hand. Does a '93 F150 have a "GEM" (general electronics module)? My neighbor had a '96 Ranger that started exhibiting screwy electrical symptoms. Mechanic changed out the GEM module and all the electrical gremlins went away.
  • True story,
    I "loved" Ford. I had a ford 1999 F150 XLT that was close to perfect (I even bought it used) THENNNN the trouble started. I traded it in for a shiny new 2004 model that I loved, for three days that is. Soon after buying the truck they determined it needed a new transmission, K, things happen, I can handle it.... then my brakes started vibrating. Long story short (on this truck at least) I made 9 trips over a ten month period to resolve the issue. Test, check, test, rebalance, turn rotors, changhe rotors (admitted faulty design)turn rotors again, change caps, turn rotors, etc. etc. etc. never did get that vibration fixed when you brake. I got so sick of it, I ended leasing a NEW 2006 XLT (just today) and dumped that other piece of $#)! on them as trade. Walked away with a SMOKING deal, and now know why. I have a definate vibration (feels like rear end) but can't believe my flip'n ears, is this possible????????? I cannot believe my luck, and NOW what I'm reading here, I came online to see about sirius radio for my new truck, and see all these other "vibration" issues, I CANNOT belive this, and think Ford has GOT to be aware they are in trouble on this. Anyhow, I'm exhauseted and ready to shoot the next Ford dealer I see, go'n ta bed boys, good luck.
  • I have a 93 F-150 318 and the water pump is leaking. Will a radiator stop leak fix the leak on my water pump or do i need to replace it? It isn't a big leak just a drip of antifreeze every once in a while. I haven't pin pointed the leak but i'm sure its the water pump.

    Thanks,

    Bill
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    "Will a radiator stop leak fix the leak on my water pump?" Naa, radiator stop-leak will only work on radiators. :D Seriously, don't pour that junk into your cooling system, it will tend to clog up the entire system.
    If you are sure it is the pump leaking bite the bullet and replace it....it ain't gonna get better.
  • 4byfour4byfour Posts: 2
    I want a 4x4 Ford F150 or an F250 4 door (Supercab)
    Crew cab and as much luxury as I can get for the money.

    I hate going to the dealer for service. If have to become familiar with the service dept, then I've bought the wrong truck.

    What is the overall reliability of the trucks? Is the mileage the same between the models?

    I want to tow 3 dirt bikes and a go kart in a covered trailer.

    I am also looking at other brands, but I like the Fords best.
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    My Ford dealer provides good service. I took my 05 SuperCrew in for an oil change and tire rotation a couple of days ago and they had me out the door in about 30 minutes.

    If you like Fords the best, then buy one. When I was shopping last year, I knew it would take something special to get me to not buy a F-150, and I didn't find anything special out there.
  • saschultzsaschultz Posts: 1
    I know of 2 other issues besides mine when it comes to back window leaks. I have had it fixed once already and it's going back tomorrow. I also called Ford Dearborn on it and they said they will follow up with me. It rainned a lot yesterday and when I stepped on the brake this morning shortly after getting under way it sounded like a rush of water moving foward somewhere in the truck - could it be in the well under the rear seats where the jack is stored?

    Im ticked, have sunk some good money into it for XM, Tonneau cover and new exhaust. Funny thing is Im from Michigan and my dad workled for ford so I got the retired plan price on an 04 Larriett loaded. Only have 16k on it in miles so it is babied quite a bit.

    Anybody can give me additional info on this issue I would appreciate it.
  • jdpwolfjdpwolf Posts: 1
    The plastic cover that I use to turn on and off my headlights broke. The switch works, but the black knob is what broke. Any ideas where to get the knob and not buy the whole thing?
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    The parts counter at your Ford store. Just ask for the knob. Should cost a couple of bucks. The same thing happened to me with the A/C selector knob a few years ago on a car by another company. I asked the Parts guy for the "Air conditioner switch" and he quoted me a-hundred-and-something dollars. When he found out I meant the knob, it became like two bucks. Should be no big deal. Do you not have automatic headlights?
  • dndspec1dndspec1 Posts: 1
    They are in a world of trouble. Problems started with my 2004 right off. Wife took in because it is close to her work. It seemed to be fixed the first few times. But... they absolutely refused to give us any paperwork. As things got worse they got snotier and snotier until I just decided to trade the piece of crap for a 2006. The dealer didn't want to take the truck in trade. So, I told them that since it was under 30,000 miles I was going to try to take some action under the "lemon law". That perked them up and they said to bring the truck in. They replaced the master cylinder, all rotors and pads, the clutchs in the rear end, for a second time, supposedly repaired the transmission by changing something in the computer. Fine, it seemed to be better. Took it on a short trip. By the time I got back I was having the same problems and again tried to make a deal for a 2006. They offered me $8,000.00 trade in for a 2004 that cost me $25,000.00. By then I had gone over 30,000 miles and did not have the paperwork to support a lemon claim. They are smart not giving people any paperwork. Makes it hard to prove anything. With a heavy heart I bought a Dodge and so far it has run fine. I will never own a Ford again.-
  • jsm2jsm2 Posts: 1
    The power door locks on my 1994 F-150 failed together. I've gotten different opinions (I haven't taken it in for anyone to inspect)on what the problem might be(examples - relay, actuator(s), electrical short). I lifted the control panels on both doors and everything looks tight with no frayed wires. I have to guess that with both of them going at one time, some one thing is the problem. Any suggestions on a troubleshooting sequence? On my vehicle, there are two loads on the same relay, the power door locks and the power lumbar support. The lumbar support works so I'm ruling out the relay. I don't see anything else in the fuse box or power unit box in the engine that is related to the power door locks. I was told by one dealership that there are actuators in each door. Once again, I'm guessing that the chances of them both failing at once are remote. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hey guys, I'm new to this forum but reading your story makes me sick.

    This is exactly why Ford and GM need to revisit their dealer relationships, and punish dealers for acting this way. You may have bought an excellent truck, that many good and honest people strived night and day to make sure was the best on the planet, but due to a $^(#&^% dealer you don't want a Ford again.

    They are loosing sales due to this, and ITS NOT ABOUT THE CAR, these dealers need to be punished.
  • Can anyone help me????
    I have an 1989 Ford F-150 2 gas tanks and one does not work and I get terrible gas mileage. I have read my owners manual and I can not locate what I need to do to fix this. If anyone has any suggestions. I am a half-way mechanic and learning as I go. So please help me!!!

    Thanks
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Sounds like one of your fuel pumps has died.

    There's a fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit in each tank. The switch on your dashboard selects which one to power and also cycles the diverter valve so that any unused fuel returns to the tank that it was originally pumped from.

    Set the switch to the dead tank. Turn the key to "ON". Do you hear any humming from the tank for 3-5 seconds? Fuel pump needs to run to pressurize the fuel system before starting. You could have a bad selector switch, but odds are with a 17 year-old-truck it's the fuel pump.

    To replace a fuel pump you have to drop the fuel tank (or take the bed off of your truck). Technically they aren't too hard to replace, but it can be a fair amount of work. You've got to pump out the tank if you're going to drop it. Dropping the tank without a lift while you under the truck is also "fun." It's still kinda heavy/awkward even when it's been emptied, and you invariably get a face full of dirt, rust and other miscellaneous stuff. It'd be wise to have a helper around just in case.

    Replacement pump is ~$125. Includes pump, float, & sender unit.
    Don't Forget - No Smoking! ;)

    As far as the gas mileage - when's the last time you gave the truck a tune up. As a rule they don't get very good mileage, :cry: :cry: but every little bit helps with $3 a gallon.
  • :cry: Geee...I just bought the truck in March. I don't do to much driving with it. After I bought it the whole truck just died on me. I had to replace a few things. Well I left the replacing to my husband who replace the starter, the alternator, and something else I can not recall. Well, I do not know which was the problem since he did it all at once and then started the truck up after all three things were changed. Ever since I bought this truck I have had nothing but problems. The one listed above, an electrical problem, and now the gas tank thing. Since the truck was bought with out a warenty I could not claim it as a lemon. :cry:

    Well I guess my husband should look deeper into a car before buying. Since it is more his truck than mine. I have a newer SUV, well not so new anymore 98 Mercury Mountaineer.

    Thank You

    CarChica23
  • steve1313steve1313 Posts: 4
    My 06 F-150 SC 5.4l, 8ft bed, HD payload, 2wd, is vibrating at 60 -65 mph since I had the General Duelers rotated at 7500 mi.
    Am getting steering wheel shimmy and vib thru floor even after 2 balances and putting tires back to original position. Dealer is contacting "HotLine(?)", maybe tires or driveshaft. Tires on my 98 (Goodyears)were replaced for "out of round " at 25K and we all know about the Bridgestone/Ford thing ,so ????
    Anyone have anything similar?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The problem is the incorrect differential gear backlash setting. I had a Nissan truck that started making whining noises in the rear axle after about 3K miles. It would do so only under load . When foot was taken off the gas pedal, the whining noise stopped. The differential was replaced under warranty. The new one started making whining noises, but thankfully only while coasting (taking foot off the gas). Under constant power the noise disappeared. The whining noise was confined to a narrow speed range between about 45 and 55 MPH in both cases.

    Why does Ford have these axle issues? The reason is simple. They probably contracted with the lowest bidder for their axles and the axle assembly is done in some third world country by untrained people who have no clue how to set up these differentials corectly. The differential gears must by carefully shimmed and adjusted to specifications and backlash must be within spec.

    I know how annoying whining axles can be. The first one I had in the Nissan that was howling all the time was nearly unbearable. One thing that helps quiet a noisy axle is 80W140 weight gear oil, such as Lucas heavy duty gear lubricant. But it should only be used in warmer climates as it getsw really thick in cold weather.
  • Since May 2005 our 2004 F-150 4x4 has had a mind of it's own. Start driving, step on the brake, (cold, hot does not matter) and the truck wants to take off. Engine revs up to 4000 rpms. Must hold foot on brake while changing into nuetral and goosing the accelerator. This calms it down. Been to dealership 5 times, called Ford each time. Last dealership attached a diagnostic to vehicle for 2 weeks, but of course nothing happened in those 2 weeks. There is no specific time truck will act up !
    Therefore, Ford will not do anything because there is no proof of a problem. In the meantime, our pick-up can 'take-off' whenever it pleases. !!!!!!! Anyone else with such a problem ?
  • klaussklauss Posts: 4
    I bought a new 2006 in July and last night, I had the same experience. It has not happened today. I pressed on the brake and it wanted to go. There is also a lingering gasoline smell when I get out of the truck. Only 1000 miles too. I have not seen any similar posts to this problem and am suprised yours is up as it happened to me for the first time last night.
  • Thank you, we thought we had a ghost. Start calling Ford Customer Service and report every time it happens. It started out mild and continues to get worse.
    The last time it happened to us, I had to literally stand on the brake while the rear tires spun gravel ! Maybe we can get it fixed before someone is injured !
  • rvmontrvmont Posts: 1
    We are a fleet maintenance department that converted to Fords in the last year. So far we have 2 trucks 1-F250 & 1 F-350 that have both experienced violent shaking while driving down the freeway at any speed above 60 MPH.
    If you hit any type of bump such as the expansion joints on a bridge/overpass the whole truck starts jumping all over the road. Literally have to slow down to appx 50MPH to get it to stop.
    We took the first one to the dealer and received a 'you must be crazy' invoice for diagnostic service with no problem found. Now I can duplicate the problem almost at will by getting up to speed and hitting any type of bump in the road. I think this is extremely dangerous, and Ford is saying they have never heard of this problem.
    Anyone else experience this?
Sign In or Register to comment.