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Ford F-150 Owners

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  • balsarbalsar Posts: 3
    Let your engine warm up to operating temp. then try to remove the o/2 sensors it will make it easier, and use the o/2 socket as Mickeymouse said, it only costs a few buck but is worth it. Careful of the hot pipes.
  • balsarbalsar Posts: 3
    Could this be a bad knock sensor. Both converters have been replaced within the last year with the o/2 sensors. Scanner reads o2 sensor and new converters are working ok. Also MAF reads good. 158 compression in cyl. and vacuum pressure is good. Yet I have no power unless I rev up the motor to about 3000rpm and then let off the clutch. this is the same in all gears, even at 45 mph ( until engine speed is upword around 3000rpm). Can I just unplug the knock sensor to test or is there another way? Thx for the help!!
  • traded 01 F150 supercrew lariat 4X4 for new 08 F150 supercrew lariat 4X4 in late July 2008. On Aug 25, 2008 drove to work and parked. 30 minutes later was called by co-workers and told my new truck was on fire. Went to parking lot and they said flames were coming up inside windshield. Fire department arrived, I unlocked doors and found the dash burned and whole inside of cab charred and smoked. Ford said fire is not a warranty issue. Dealer and I argued that a defect caused the fire and it is a warranty issue. Insurance had to investigate and found Auxillary Power plug-in on dash to be defective and caused fire. Sent report to Ford saying it was a defect. Ford is dragging their feet still. Don't want to admit it was a defect. Ford has not even gone to dealer lot to look at truck. Truck has been at dealer in the as burned state for well over a month. Dealer can't believe Ford will not respond, they have tried everything and I have complained to all the regional reps but to no avail so far.
    Looks like I may have to hire a lawyer and go through Lemon Law at this point.

    If anyone has an 08 or similar model with power plug under the dash air vent to the right of the radio, get it to a dealer and have it double checked. My truck is at Dealer lot in Willard, Ohio. Still burned up and making payments.
    Loyalty will get you no where with Ford. They used to make a good truck, and if they had taken care of this issue right away like they should have, I may have still been a loyal customer. Defects can happen.....Customer satisfaction is what is lacking in this case! :mad: :sick: :lemon:
  • i have a 1999 f 150 xlt v8 4.6 had no trouble with it minor things i have 200459 miles on it now truck is in fair shape mortor is clean and dont burn no oil. im thinking of trading it in or keep it till mortor give out. i have look at 2005 5.4 truck but i have heard that the new ones is not as good as the old ones.need of feed back please. thank you..
  • Hi, I own a 92 F150 xlt, I am getting alot of door drop when i open the driver door. Looks like bottom bushing is wore out. how do I remove the old hinges and can I buy new ones.

    Thanks
  • When starting out my truck seems to buck with light accelerator pressure also when going about 25 to 30mph and holding steady pressure it will buck.sometime when backing up it will buck hard.This does not happen all the time and does not trip the engine soon light.
    I have had it to the ford dealer 5 times and they can't find the problem and does not show on the memory.
  • Sounds like a fualty TPS sensor. You need a graphing meter to test it accurately. Try unplugging it and see if the symptom goes away. This will turn your check engine light on. But it will force the PCM to guess at trottle position instead of using a possible intermitant bad signal.

    TPS Throttle Position Sensor
  • Thank you very much I will take the truck back to the dealer and will let you know how I made out.They have been trying for a year and a half and couldn't find anything because the engine light didn't come on and memory didn't show anything.
  • Hi,
    I took my truck to the dealer with the information you gave me about the TPS sensor. They told me they wouldn't do anything untill the engine light came on.I guess I will have to wait .
    Thank you again
    Bob
  • unbelievable

    in this day and age of big losses and the money running out, i'm guessing Ford has layed off all but one person who can look at your truck. And he probably gets a bonus for pushing back a certain percentage of problems on the buyers back.

    nice going ford
  • I am looking at trading for a 2003 F150 SuperCrew XLT with the 4.6 V8 and 51,000 miles. I currently have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma crew cab with the V6. It has been great, but my wife and I both miss the utility of a full size truck.

    I have not owned Ford, but of course you see what seems like thousands on the road everyday. Just looking for some general thoughts, not "homers" for Ford or "anti-Ford" comments.

    Overall satisfaction? General reliability, epecially as the truck gets older? Anything else that might be valuable to us?

    Appreciate the time from all...
  • Went ot take my granddaughter to school and the alarm just went off and have checked the fuses in after factory system and they seem ok but it keeps going off and will not start now.
  • regnarregnar Posts: 10
    I own a 07 F150 FX2 with 5.4. Just put on winter tires with steel rims and now the air pressure light stays on because these rims don't have the sending unit which are still in the stock rims. Any way of shutting the dash warning light off?
  • I got a pretty dumb question but I've recently purchased a 1992 ford f150 4x4 ( old I know ) and I don't know how to use the 4x4 feature on it, can anyone show me how to use the 4x4 so that I don't break something in the trucks engine?
  • i have the exact same problem with my 2002. were you ever able to have it fixed or what. i dont like fords but i love my truck and this thing is driving me crazy.
  • Yea the check engine light keeps turning on and off every so often on my 1992 ford f-150 4x4, I've been noticing every time get off the freeway and turn on the on ramp the light turns on and also when I"m traveling past 65 mph.I've recently worked on the valves and lifters could that have something to do with it? Someone please let me know what the heck is causing my check engine light to come on?
  • No I have not been able to get it fixed and my warranty is up in 3000 miles. .the company said they couldn't do anything unless the check engine light come on to tell what the problem is.
  • markanmarkan Posts: 48
    I have an 08 F-150 super-cab with 40-20-40 front seat. Can I replace the driver side manual seat with a power seat? I would hope to be able to use the same seat, just replace the manual base with a power seat base. Dealer has been no help. Thanks for any help or advice.
  • jlcjlc Posts: 30
    I had the same problem on a 94 buick, turned out to be the vibration damper and position sensor. Hope this helps.

    JLC
  • I am having the same problem If you find out what it is let me know.
  • Ok I have a 2001 Ford F150 4x2 6 cyl. automatic transmission. I went to take off one morning and it reved up to about 4000 RPM's before I could get it to move. I check the tranny fluid and it was completly dry. I filled that back up and realised that I had a leak in one of my lines. Got that fixed but it still wont move in drive, first or second. I have reverse perfectly fine. Someone said to try and rock it while I had someone put into drive to see if we could get the valve unstuck (if that is even the problem), someone else to me to put a bottle of lucas tranny fluid in it so see if that would help. Anyone have any options? I dont want to trade it in right now bc i would get nothing for it with the tranny problem. Any advace would be great!
    thanks
    Aimee
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    Hi, My F 150 V8 4.6 (4x4) has blown the no.2 cylinder twice. The first time it did not strip out and a new plug and coil fixed it. Last nighn (in -11 degree newfy winter weather) it blew again. I tried to install anew plug but I cannot get it to screw in. could something have fallen in while I was removing the coil pack or could it be stripped out and have to be re-bored.How big a job is it to re-bore and what is involved.Thanks Tom :confuse: <img src=" Visit my NEWFY car space.
  • Autozone sells a rethread kit with an insert with the 14mm thread. Takes about 15 minuts to do. Comes with the oversized tap and threaded insert.
  • 84pete84pete Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how many Pittsburgh Steeler 150's were produced in '04? Have called local dealer and FoMoCo with no luck.
  • sameasamea Posts: 1
    In the past 25 months all 4 of the electric window regulators on my 2005 F150 Super Crew have broken and the truck only has 57K miles on it. There is a loud pop and the window just falls into the door. The problem was the same for all, the plastic parts that retain the end of the drive cable let loose and then the cable unwraps from the motor pulley. Since Ford does not sell any service parts for these regulators the entire assembly must be replaced at a cost of about $200 each. So far it has cost me a total of $815.56 and I am extremely upset over this situation.
    As a comparison, I drove my 1985 and my 1994 F150's for 152K and 204K miles respectively and never had a single electric window problem with either. I have seen a lot of complaints about this problem on auto web sites and my Ford dealer service and parts staff admit there is a high failure rate on these regulators. Ford should issue a recall on these regulators and reimburse the costs paid by those of us who have had to replace them already. If not there should be a class action law suit filed!
  • Question for you i took my starter to Autozone to get tested and they said it was [non-permissible content removed] because of the solenoid is there anyway i can just get that piece and it would be fine or would it be easier to buy the whole starter and just bit the bullet??? I have a 95 F150 4.9l V6 any help???? :sick:
  • ford150ford150 Posts: 1
    I have a fully restored f 150 1991 5.0 4x4. Some time back it started rev fluctuation. I replaced the IAC, it was better but now it will start fine when cold, cold idle fine, drop to curb idle fine for awhile and then just die, instantly. What's up with that? Nearly everything is new, engine, TPS, 02 sensor, IAC, wires, plugs, cap & rotor, fuel filter, ...GO figure !!!!!! Please Help..... Thank you
  • cleve94cleve94 Posts: 1
    Hi friends, I got a 94 5.8 small eight,auto/overdrive only 90,000 have never even had a tune up and runs real good ( but its about time for some plugs ) it did sit a few years ago for about a year and when I got her up running again the AC Compressor or the Clutch locked up. I then had all new hoses and belts put on and the next step was look for a deal on a rebuilt compressor. But for some reason it just freed up and never gave any trouble again til this season, I did try to run it every week or so as they say but its locked up again, Now I'am only a fair mech. but is it possible to tear down that compressor and rebuild it with a kit or fix clutch ect. I asked different people and couple mechanics and I get a long blank look and no answer. but I dont have the $300. $650 plus labor I've seen quoted and hear in S">outhern Cailf. you gotta have air or forget it. Thank you for any thing you you might advise . Cleve
  • don787don787 Posts: 1
    Ok, I can't believe I have to ask this question but here goes . . . How do you get an oil filter off of a 2007 F-150, V8 5.4L? I've got it up on ramps and can get one hand on it, but I can't get both hands on it and there is no way to get an oil filter wrench on it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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