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Ford F-150 Owners



  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    out this new home and garage....yup I think my 02 Screw will fix just fine in here. End of Sept, I reduced in size from a 2YK F250 Lariat 4x4 Crew Cab to a 02 F150 SCrew XLT 4x4, both trucks carry the 5.4. I went from leather to cloth, which I fine to my liking alot better, I don't worry about sticking my cloth like I did with my leather. The 02 has 4x4,5.4,LS,RX4 off-road pkg., 2-tone (Black/Dark Shadow Gray), moonroof, 6 disc cd changer, power driver's seat/auto headlights, towing pkg, cab steps. I have added an ARE Z-Series Cap (goes down over the bed rails) Full wrap around Black (MAAP)powder coated grill/brush guard. Along with a 6yr/100,000 mi 0 deduct. Everything listed except the grill guard was in the original trade, I swapped payments, no money was exchanged...I went in with a 2YK and came out with a 02. In 5000 miles I have been back to the dealer for the first free oil change at 2500 and haven't been back. It has taken a little getting used to the down sizing...I just carry a bit less in the bed...can get into a lot more places then before. There is always flashbacks when I see the big elephants mirrors coming down the least I can say, I have been there, done that.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Congrats on your new truck.. I was around here when you were getting the SuperDuty. I'm glad the S-crew is working out for you..
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    I have a former classmate who lives in Ashville, but my excite address book is still screwed up so can't e-mail him.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    In Raleigh, (actually I live in the outlying boonies aka Holly Springs), I had 11" in my driveway and on the road..
    I don't think Ashville got quite that much, but they would be much better prepared for something like this.

    Yesterday the roads were very passable because the unplowed roads were mostly very wet snow and slush, and most stuff that was plowed was just wet.. At least one lane of all major roads was in decent shape..
    The killer is at night, when it gets down to 15 degrees, all the wet stuff freezes into solid ice.. Also, any spot that gets alot of shade does't thaw out, which makes for some way slick spots..

    My 4x2 Superduty (with limited slip diff) does 'ok', but I have high mileage highway tires on it, not all terrain tires.. Also I need about 300 to 500lbs in the rear to help settle it some. The 4x2 Escape we have which is front wheel drive and has good tires, has no problems at all..

    A friend of mine's 4x4 is in the shop.. It got stuck in 4wheel low. When he brought it in, he said the service department was PACKED with folk's 4x4's in for service. Most wouldn't go into 4x4, with a small number of others with different 4x4 system problems.

    Why? I think because 4x4 systems a. need to be used, and b. do require more maintenance, but since its not used, they don't know its broke..
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    Have fun in the snow. We've had a lot of nights below freezing recently but fortunately no precip with them. These people can't even drive on wet roads forget about on ice/snow. And if anything it's usually ice.
  • My first F-150 was a 1981, Yesterday I bought a 2000 F-150 super cab xlt, black, 5.4L, 4x4, cloth seats, power everything, am/fm/cd, bed liner, bed cover, tow package, cab steps, 48k miles. $17,600. Hopefully will not have any problems and be happy with it. Thanks for the info pages found here.
  • my Grandfather's F-150. He gave it to me since he can't drive anymore, and its a 1995 XLT 4x4 automatic with the 5.8 liter engine. I just wanted to ask anybody out there if there may be any problems/concerns about this truck that I should be aware of. Thanks.

  • I've got same truck - '95 extended cab. (Also have '01, F350 CC, so F-150 doesn't see all that much use anymore.) F-150 has 167,000 on it. Aside from tires and maintenance, had to overhaul auto tranny at 125K, needed a starter at 152K, and replaced throttle position sensor at ~160K. Motor is still strong and responsive, still has original exhaust and passes Smog test with ease. I changed oil religiously at 3K miles, and its been a fine truck. My needs changed and I got the '350, but I'm "saving" the '150 for my teenage son.
    My F150 had a tendency to eat front tires - need to rotate them every 6-7K. Tire shop had to put some kind shim on front end in order to align it and it still doesn't stay aligned - bump one curb and it's outta whack again.
    You've gotta engage 4wd at least once a month and drive around a few minutes (off dry pavement) to keep things lubed. Need to do this or you'll get a rude surprise one day when you need it and front hubs won't engage. Is your's a manual 4x4, or do you have "shift on the fly." Shift of the fly can have difficulties with vaccumm actuator springing leaks and prevent shifting into 4 wd. Make sure system can disengage too.
    Oh yeah, also check your spare tire holder. The big bolt that holds it in place under the bed can get pretty rusty. It's kinda humiliating to have a flat and not be able to change it cause you can't break the bolt free to get to your spare. Put some anti-sieze compound on it.
    Enjoy the truck. If you haven't driven a pickup before, the rear ends are light when unloaded, so they handle different than a car. Also remember that 4wd doesn't make you Superman on the road, they take just as long to stop in the snow as 4x2's.
  • Thanks for giving me some info. I'll be sure to kick in the shift on the fly 4 wheel drive every once in a while. Yeah, I was told by my grandpa that he thought that the wheels weren't quite aligned correctly. Just a while ago we got new tires for it and had an alignment done on it. I'me pretty used to driving trucks around, because I've been going around in my Dad's 1990 F-250 for a little while. I have another question, my dad drove this truck from wisconsin, where the altitude is lower. So far, we think that the engine power is a little skimpy compared to the same engine on our 250 when we have to accelerate in conditions like on freeway on-ramps. Do you think the higher altitude of Idaho could cause that? Its about due for a tune-up anyways. Also, there is some corrosion all around on the bottom from the salted roads in Wisconsin. Should that be of any concern?? Thanks again wpalkowski.

  • Glad to be of help.
    I think gassers lose 3% of their HP for every 1000 feet up in altitude. Not totally sure if that 's the right number, but regardless, as you go up the engine loses power. Too much fuel and not enough air. I don't now how to tune an injected engine for higher altitudes but I'm sure the mechanics in your area can help it.
    I live in CT, and they salt pretty heavy here too. Is your corrosion on the body or on frame? My body's fine, only minor rust around a few knocks and dings. My '150 was undercoated, and now 7 years later, it's peeling off and showing rust on frame. It's just surface rust, so I'm not worried. If it was a 20 year old truck then I'd probably be concerned. If you're gonna have your's serviced, check it out while it's up on the lift. While it's there check it out for oil/tranny leaks and also check rear brake cylinders. I forgot to mention that mine were replaced during a brake job because they had started leaking.
    Don't forget to keep on thanking your Grandfather. Not every day somebody's just gonna give you a decent pickup truck, so take good care of it as a sign of respect to him.

    Good Luck,

  • fman2fman2 Posts: 1
    I am writing you today because I have a problem with my 99' Ford F-150 and I am appealing to all who might listen or give advice. My problem began
    around two weeks prior to the submittal of this letter (approximately Jan. 3, 2002). I arrived home from work and parked my truck in the garage (as usual) and noticed a smell similar to clutch fluid (my truck has an automatic transmission) or rubber burning. Upon investigation with the help
    of a few good mechanics at my place of employment, I found out that I had an oil leak and it was NOT coming from the drain plug, the oil filter, or any other visually noticeable part. So I took it the dealer that is. I
    took it to the place I bought it from and the place I trust(ed). They said sorry, we can't get to it because "a few of our technicians have the
    crud...But if you schedule an appointment we can get to it in a week or so!" So I scheduled an appointment with this Hoover, Alabama dealership in which I have purchased 3 cars from. The truck went in the shop this past Wednesday. Sure enough, there was an oil leak...problem is, the leak is around the right bank head gasket (?huh - Sorry, not an engine man). 38,800 miles on the truck is supposed to be a break-in point, right? Well it turns out that my 36,000-mile warranty had expired and the dealership and Ford
    Motor Company act like I should be grateful because they offered to pay for PART of the repair cost! Am I wrong for assuming that a blown right bank head gasket is NOT my fault and that a blown right bank head gasket at
    38,800 miles is usually a Manufacturer's defect? Well, from the published owner's accounts that I have found at various Internet sites, this is a
    common problem in late-model Ford products (not to mention the numerous, Ford published recalls). It sounds like they had a bad batch of head or block casts to me (it would baffle me to hear that Ford head casts and block casts are different for each of their automotive products). If I am wrong or misinformed please educate me. I know the recent historical problems
    Ford has had with head gaskets but am I an unusual case? From the Internet reports, I doubt it. Can you advise me on a path to take? Do I take Ford's deal to pay part of the cost? Or do I keep fighting (I have raised caine with the delar and Ford Motor Company)? One other piece of the puzzle I failed to mention is that my last DEALER (same dealership in question) service report states that they CLEANED my air filter at 29,350 miles. On every other service report since the truck was purchased there is no mention of
    changing or cleaning my air filter. In fact, the air filter was not changed until 37,000 miles (7000 miles is probably too long to wait). Is this unusual? The service technician at the next and last place I went for service, seemed to think so. What do I do? Any help, advice, OR criticism would be a great benefit. This is a manufacturer problem in my opinion and I don't think I should drop a dime on it!
  • The corrosion is on the frame, on the axle, and there's some corrosion around the (what do ya call it?) area around the back of the brakes and the lug nuts. Not much, but as you said, i'll have it checked out. And don't worry, I plan on babying the hell out of this thing!

  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    This problem is very common on 98-99 F150s. The blokc is poorly machined and does not seal properly with cylinder head. So after a few miles the gasket starts to leak. If they change the gasket only, it will leak again. You need another engine. There are numerous threads at Thet guys on that site will be more helpful than here. Most of them are dealing with the problem as we speak.

    Personally, I would not rest until Ford changed my engine. That is the only solution to your problem. Replacing the gasket will work for a short term and then you will get another leak.

    Try going to another dealer and they might be abel to help you.

  • I bought a 2001 F-150 (new) standard cab, standard transmission. Around 5000 miles it started grinding while shifting into 3rd gear, not all the time, but frequently. I took it several times to the dealer who said nothing was wrong and maybe it was my shifting. Not, I continued to have the grinding which was happending more often. On the 4th trip to the dealer they requested I drive w/them to see if the problem happened while they were with me. On the third drive, with the third person, it did it. They still couldn't explain why, but, they decided to replace the whole transmission. So, it drove great no problems with grinding until two weeks ago. It started doing it again, only in 3rd gear. I thought ok, maybe it is me. I deliberately starting shifting with me paying attention to the whole shift process making sure I was doing it right. I am. So, has anyone heard of this problem? Is there some issue relating to the events I have spoken about? I have been trying to research it in hopes of finding an answer or history with this transmission. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find some kind of answer. I appreciate the help.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Maybe the problem isn't with the transmission, but with the clutch not dis-enguaging correctly all the time.. That would explain why replacing the tranny didn't help.
  • I never thought to ask that, could it have stopped when they did replace the trans and all adjustments were made and then it slowly came out of alignment causing it to grind again. If this were the scenario, what part of the clutch is bad? I am a little intimidated to take it back to the dealer. They originally made it sound like I didn't know what I was talking about. You could tell by their facial expressions and questions they were thinking I was having a blonde moment. Do you think it could have anything else to do with the transmission itself? You know, bad year of making it, disgruntled employee, How do you fight for something you know is happening but the males are unwilling to listen? Thanks for writing back
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    From doing some reading on the tranny section boards. Others also experience an occasional grind on the shift into 3rd.
    With online boards, you can't really trust everything you read. I'm sure there alot of folks out there with trannys that work just fine..

    So after doing this reading, here is summary of the possible causes for the 2-3 shift grind..
    -bad synchro
    - wrong fluid put in tranny at factory, (rumor) causing synchro to go bad
    - bad clutch slave cylinder
    - poor design (the fix is just to shift more carefully)
    And probably more..

    Not many folks have had success in getting their symptoms fixed (and I bet they're male). So in your particular case I don't think your dealership is treating you any different than anyone else.

    Keep up the positive attitude with your dealership and return it specifying that your having the same problem..

    Call the 1-800 ford customer service number to document your complaint.. Also, if the dealership is unable to fix the problem, why not ask for an extended powertrain warranty (at no charge).
  • Thank you so much for the additional information and where to find more. I really appreciate it. Have a great week.
  • All of my previous trucks have been ext. cabs so I have never needed a bed toolbox before but I recently purchased a F150 regular cab. What is the best way to secure down the toolbox for the bed? The bed already has top and side hole in it rigth behind the cab I assume this is to make it easier to accomodate a toolbox.
  • My new 2002 SuperCrew order arrived misbuilt from factory. The metal roof was not square. My Ford dealership (after trying hard to correct the problem) rejected the truck and is shipping it back to the factory in Kansas City. The moonroof would not close properly, but it was not the moonroof mechanism--it was the metal roof. The truck was also missing a running board, and the plastic trim on a bed rail was sticking up. It must have been a bad day at the factory in KC when my truck was built (on January 7th, first day back after the holidays). I was angry at first, then later just very disappointed. Ford will get another chance to build it right in February. Best Wishes,
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