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Ford F-150 Owners

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  • If it will not come out of gear even with the engine off, the transmission might be hung up. I suggest verifying that the trans change over is compatible. Here is my thought. If the out put shaft is slightly longer on the transmisssion you put in, it might be binding things up. Try loosing all of the bell housing bolts so the trans is away from the engine a little and see if this frees it. If it does, a solution to this would be to shim or place some u shape spacers between the engine and trans.
  • Hello i am looking to put clear corners on my 2001 white f150 and wanted some inout. I was curious on what others thoughts were about replacing the stock healights as well..i don't want to put the clear corners on and it look tacky with the older dirty headlights, not that they're that bad. i was also curious if anyone knew if there was a way to make fog lights bright enough the mesh with the new clear lights.
    Thanks !!
  • I recently bought a 94 f150 and the engine blew. I would like to know what years engines are able to swap and how hard would it be to change the computer if I change to a 351. And if anyone has one reasonable.

    Thank you
  • Not sure if your existing wiring harness is compatable with a PCM for a 351. Check the wiring schematic in an auto book and see if they are the same. If not compatalble, your going to have to change the harness. You might get lucky since its a Ford, both engines may use the same PCM & harness. There is a tricky way of finding out. On both PCM's there is a sticker with a number on it. Call Autozone and see if both PCM's come back to the same part number. As for bolting up to you trans, call ATK engines(reman engines & trans) they will be able to tell you what engines can bolt up to your trans. Good luck!
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    my '04 F150 is such a piece of :lemon: that i seriously hope it spontaniously combusts so I can either sue Ford or just get a claim on my insurance.

    I have not had any notice from Ford to come in and have my cruise control fixed
  • I have a 1988 F150 that I have been hopping up for a while now. I have question regarding the AC. The AC has not ever worked and I don't need it because i have a single cab with a sliding rear window. Can i remove it? If so; will it make a little more power if I use a bypass pulley instead of the compressor sittng there? I will have more room to work and get rid of a little weight. this truck weighs alot as it is. Will I get more cool air in my rad with out the condenser up front?
  • When the AC is free wheeling, acting as a pully only, the horse power it takes to turn it is no more than another pully. It is only when the AC compressor is engauged and the engine has to turn it that it takes about 7-10 horse power to turn it. The weight being removed will not make any noticalbe difference. As for the removal of the condensor. This should provide additional air flow. However; if your engine runs too cold because of this, it will use more gas if the engine can't maintain proper engine temp.
  • I bought a new rad that is half the size of the one that compensates for the ac, I got it because I want to switch to an electric fan later on. The AC has never worked, in fact the last time I tried to use the AC it stalled the truck.

    Would using the smaller rad make up for the added airflow and cancel out the mileage issue? I plan on doing alot to the motor this year, should I leave it? or tear it out? The extra room would be nice. If it makes a difference I have also purchased an under drive pully set that has not been installed, I was going to do it when I got the ac thing worked out.

    Thanks for the advice.
  • Aside from the AC thing. I am having an issue with my truck that is concerning me. I think it is the tranny but I am not sure. I have an AOD. Here goes......

    The truck is fine when I am accellerating but every now and then when I am stuck behind someone in traffic that is bound and determined to go 50k and no faster. Third gear has no power when it kicks down or in at a lower rpm, I have to stomp it to get power. If I am stopped and then drive it runs through the gears no problem, it has lots of power cruising at 65k but if I slow down to 50k I have power loss. I get a rattle as well as if something is loose, but only when it kicks down. Otherwise I have no problem. Tranny fluid is good not burnt. Everything else is good. From a stand still it will pull you back in the seat and flies all the way up 160k (thats is fast as I have had it off the line) but if I have to take my foot off around 50k, no dice....

    A friend of mine has Bronco, same year, same tranny, same deal.

    Do my bands needs adjusting.
  • rubysoxrubysox Posts: 6
    My husband & I have a ford F-150 On sunday we were backing into our driveway & my husband could not get the truck to drop into reverse & move. We tried a few times & it would not go. The truck has about 46,000 miles on it. We were able to get it to drop into drive & a message flashed transmission default. 2 weeks ago we were driving & the truck started shaking & as we pulled on to our street the OD light started flashing, we were going to drive it to the dealer however we treid to drive it my husband was able to back it in the drive way but when he wanted to go forward he was giving it over half throtle & it wouldn't budge we had it towed to the dealer thinking it was transmission issue that would be covered under a warranty. They called my Husband & told himit was the front brakes & there was nothing wrong with the transmission. They fixed the front brakes to the tune of $500+. They tried to tell us we need rear brake work however they were fairly new 7 had been done by another vendor when we took it to that vendor (midas) they looked at it discovered the E-brake was stuck charged us $30 to fix that rather than another $200 for rear brakes the dealer wanted. Sunday we had it towed back to the same dealer. Yesterday they called my Husband & tried to insist again it was the rear brakes he told them the rer brakes were fine we had just had them looked at. He told them when it went in the first tiem he thought it was a transmission issue. They never looked at the transmisssion. Now they FINALLY agree there IS an issue with the tran, however they don't know what until they take it out & look at it which is a 5 hour project just to take it out & see what is worng. Then tack on the cost to rpair anything. Has anyone had this issue? Any suggestions? Other than telling the dealer to go to HE double hockey stick? The tranny fluid is fne & not burnt or leaking. the dealer couldn't answer us when asked why a 3 year old truck would have a tranny issue. It was leased in 2004 July.
  • delisaedelisae Posts: 3
    Just today, I tried to put my 2004 F-150 into reverse. With a little gas, it did not budge. Thought maybe I did not engage the gears completely, put it in park, back to reverse and it did finally move. Driving down the road, it felt sluggish then would seem to speed up on its own. I picked up my son and went to turn around on a drive way and again, could not get the truck to go into reverse. Then it began jerking and sounded as if I were dragging something underneath it. Then beep...and the transmission fault appeared on the mileage screen and the O/D light began to flash off and on. I was able to make it home but took awhile.

    May I ask what you found on your truck and approximate $$$$$ involved. Of course, we are not covered under warranty and can only find that we were covered by the powertrain warrantly until 3 years/36,000 miles. The truck is only 4 years old and has less than 49,000 miles on it. This is just sickening.
    Thank you for any information you are willing to share with me.
  • I also have a 04 f150 79,000km on it. I went for reverse the other day and nothing happened it was like putting the truck in neutral. i got a trans fault warning on my display, as i am not covered by any warranty . i am trying to find out what the problem could be. DONT BUY A FORD :lemon:
  • woobegonewoobegone Posts: 18
    I need to replace all three O2 sensors (confirmed by professional engine analysis) on my 96 F150 w/ 5.0L. Is this a DIY project for a "shade-tree" mechanic with very limited knowledge of emissions systems. The going labor rate suggests not much time is involved, and the parts appear to be "plug-n-play." Are there special tools needed (a deal-breaker for sure)? Anyone done this job themselves?
  • They do make a 7/8 socket with a slit in it for the wires, availible at autozone.. The two upstream o2 I just use a 7/8 wrench. The down stream o2 you may need the special socket, depending on how long they have been in there. I have gone to remove them and the treads on the pipe strips out. Careful there. Its just plug n play. To reset any trouble codes you may have disconect the negative cable on the battery or use a scan tool.
  • woobegonewoobegone Posts: 18
    Thanks for the info. I'm going to order the parts, then try to save myself about $300 by attempting the job myself. These are the original sensors, so getting them out may be problematic. If all else fails, I have AAA so I can have it towed to a real mechanic. :D
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    do you guys have the 4x4 version of the '04 F150? I've heard of many issues with that tranny but not on the 2wd.

    With that said, my '04 F150 2wd had a complete transmission failure at 28,000 miles, 6 days past the 3 year mark! After all my venting, the best I could come up with is 50% off on a trany replacement. My share was $2,200!!

    They told me I was lucky to get half.
    I don't feel lucky :mad: . I drive the truck :lemon: easy.
    I've also had repeated problems with the front brakes warping on me. I'm on my third set of warped rotors.
  • egreen3egreen3 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 F150 with the 5.4L V-8 and closing in on 100k miles. I don't see anywhere that a timing belt/chain replacement is recommended at a particular interval like some cars at around 100k. Is that right?
  • It has a timing chain that is good for the life of the engine. Timing chains sometimes do go bad, but rarely on the 5.4. I have 248k on mine right now.
  • I changed pads and have soft pedal. I know you have to bleed brakes in a specific order but i dont know it. can anyone help?
  • If you have rear drum brakes it is rare for your truck, adjust them first. Start bleeding the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder. Passenger side rear. Then driverside side rear, then passenger side front, then drivers side front.

    Note: If you did not replace or machine your rotors, your spungy pedel may be due to the pads not wearing in to the rotor surface. Try pumping the pedel and riding the brakes while driving for short periods of time.

    Symptom of needed bleeding is after pumping the pedel about 3 times there isn't as much free play or spungy feeling in the pedel, it feels tight. If your pedel still feels spungy after doing this, most likely the surfaces of the rotor and the new pads need to be wear in.
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