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Ford F-150 Owners

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  • Hi there,
    I've got a '00 F150 4x4 w. off-road and towing, 5.4 auto. Since new, have experienced 12-14 in mixed city/hwy, have hit 17 a few times on all-hwy trips. I'm fairly light footed, no hot-rodding, burning 87 or 89. This seems a tad low to me, am I wrong to think it should be doing more like 14-15 in mixed??
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Your mileage is consistant with what most others post with that configuration..

    If you look at www.f150online.com, you'll see that the F150's with the 5.4L also get mileage in the 13-15 range with mixed driving.. So your doing pretty good considering our SuperDutys are less aerodynamic and alot heavier..

    I average 15.5 in mixed driving but I have the 5sp tranny which helps a bit..
  • Am considering a new 2002 f-150 xlt,139", styleside,v6,manual trans,moonroof,6cd,tubular step,sliding rear win.for $20,600.
    They also have the same truck and color without options for $18,800. Does anybody have opinions about these prices?These are supposedly "fords store" no haggle price.This will be my first f-150.

    Thanx in advance
    Dave
  • I have a 98 F-150 with the 5.4. Have had no trouble except the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Recommended spark plug change interval is 100,000 miles. I have heard that it is kind of a tough job with each cylinder having a coil and no plug wires. Has anyone had the experience of changing the plugs?
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    that's seems like a strangely equipped truck. Those options but with 6 and stick. Like somebody ordered it then didn't take it. You'd probably take a beating on trade, but if you keep a vehicle quite awhile it wouldn't matter much.
  • 3fan23fan2 Posts: 6
    dave235 check the prices here. You can configure a truck any way you like and
    find the dealers cost right on this site. From what you say sounds like you can do even
    better than dealers cost on these trucks. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    taught me about these low, low prices. You better be buying it outright (no trade-in). 'Cause they aren't going to give you much for a trade. Been there......but didn't do that!
  • adrian01adrian01 Posts: 12
    If that is "THE" truck for you , you better get it because it is one oddly equipped P/U. RARE..Sounds like it was put together with all the parts left over at the end of the day
  • richitarichita Posts: 1
    Have opportunity to buy above w/ 36k miles....most options included....4.6 V8....dlr will take 14,900....any suggestions...
  • Does anyone know if the Ventvisor for the F150 2001 will fit the 2002 F150 windows?

    Also, do you put the adhesive on the outside of the rubber on the window or inside the groove where the window goes into or does it matter?

    Thanks!
  • califjohncalifjohn Posts: 101
    of the 150. The factory blower appeals to me as does the slightly lower stance and performance tires. Am a little put off tho' by the problems listed in this and other sites about chronic oil leaks in the 5.4 engine series block/head. Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed or is it still a work in progress? I would like the truck better if it had a bench rear seat too. The two captain's chairs in the rear don't make a lot of sense, but hey a pick up you can't haul much in doesn't make much either!
  • chop420chop420 Posts: 7
    I currently own a 2000 Volvo S70 GLT and I'm considering a major switch to a Ford F150! I've thought about it for awhile and I think a truck may be more useful than my Volvo. I only put on about 10K miles/year and have a 12 mile all highway commute to work. Also, it seems the ride and drive of the F150 is pretty good, although not at all like my Volvo. My question to owners of the F150, how is it for everyday use? And for someone who has only owned one truck, 1989 Ranger, will I find uses for the truck after I own it that I don't really know about now (i.e. "how did I ever live without this truck"
  • It's not as strange as it sounds. It will confuse those who know you more than you might think. I owned a Lexus ES300 a couple of years ago, and have spent the last two years and 80K miles (yes, 80K) in a 99 F150 Lariat Extended Cab, 2wd, with 5.4 V8.

    The first thing you notice is that every weekend, someone you know (relatives, friends, people who want to make friends because they need you...) will need your truck to move something. Sometimes, the really bold ones will want (expect) you to come with the truck. Set your "I don't lift furniture, haul antiques, or tow farm implements" policy early, and stick to it.

    Obviously, with 80K miles in two years, I've spent quite a bit of time in the truck. It works well in traffic, is comfortable on the highway, and really handles O.K. It's a bit harder to find parking, but you'll adjust. The gas mileage sucks, but you have to have already figured that out. The rear wheels spin on wet surfaces at takeoff sometimes, which will be another adjustment in driving style.

    The incentives are great on these now, and they're really quite affordable. I'm about to move back into the sports sedan category, but it hasn't been a bad couple of years with the truck (although my back is still aching from the weekend chores of my friends).

    Good Luck.
  • 3fan23fan2 Posts: 6
    Just got my 02 F-150 supercrew. I love it. Plenty of room, very comfortable. Lots of luggage space if needed. I have the Bedrug and ARE lid. Plenty of rear seat room. Rides great. Looks good. Our first truck and we love it.
  • jps6jps6 Posts: 6
    I'm buying an older {1993} F 150 supercab XLT LB 4X4 in 2 weeks. I love this truck, but in checking out several fords of the exact year and model, I've discovered some have a tailgate with the aluminum treatment and the smaller ford logo, while the one I'm buying has the traditional F O R D in big letters across the back of the tailgate.It sure looks like the original tailgate of the same year. Can someone help me out with this non-life threatening yet puzzling dilemma? THANKS!
  • You are correct, their is a coilpack to be removed over each plug. You'll need a 7mm socket to remove the coilpacks, a 1/4' swivel(universal) adapter, a few 1/4 " extensions, a 5/8" Spark Plug socket, several lengths of 3/8" extensions & a 3/8" universal, as well as a couple of rachets. Remove the 7mm screws holding the coilpacks on, then gently twist the coilpack to release the attached boot that covers the wire to the plug, until it breaks loose from the plug. Now pull the coilpack/boot assembly out in one piece if you can. If the boot separates, don't panic it will slip back onto the coilpack easily enough. If you have an air compressor, blow around the plugs before removing them to dislodge any trash that may have accumulated in the plug recess. Next lower the plug socket on a 4"-6" extension until you get it onto the plug, loosen & remove the plug. The plugs are recessed 5 or 6 inches into the head. After this, gap the new plug, push it into the plug socket & ease it into the hole, it will line up almost every time. Retighten the plug, replace the coilpack, screw it down & go to the next plug. It's an easy job, but can be frustrating if you get in a hurry, especially the 3rd plug back on the driver's side & the 2 rearmost plugs. Lastly, you will drop a coilpack screw or 2 so before you start, go ahead & get your extendable magnet out. Good luck...
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
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  • trex997trex997 Posts: 1
    I have a '97 F150 Lariet 4x2 Extended Cab with sliding glass rear window. The problem is that when it rains I have a leaking problem. It drips down the back seat slightly to the passenger side. The headboard(?) is stained like it is leaking from the roof but I can't find any holes or cracks. I am thinking it is coming from the sliding window or the third brake light. Anyone with similar problem, or ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Hello Cindy, I'm not sure how to fix the grind. more than likely a bad synchro. I drove tractor trailer for 20 years, and none of the trucks we drove had any synchronizers. We had to get the engine and transmission turning at the same speed, roughly. This requires a simple procedure called double clutching. Simply put when upshifting 2nd to 3rd let out the clutch on the way between gears. Do not rev the motor, as this will defeat the purpose. Just make sure you are in neutral when you briefly let out the clutch, before you shift into third. When down shifting, same thing, only slightly rev the engine when down shifting from 4th to 3rd. This momentary letting out the clutch in between gears gets your engine and transmission turning at almost the same speed, which is the job the synchros are supposed to do. As I said earlier we used 10 speed fuller transmissions that had no synchronizers in any of the gears. I'm probably making this sound a lot harder than it is. With a little practice it gets easy, and is good for the longevity of the tranny. Not meaning to replace having it repaired, but it will make the truck usable until a repair happens, if ever knowing Ford from past experience. It would help if you have a friend or family member that's a trucker to talk you through it. Good Luck.... Leo
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    How can I determine, by looking at the OUTSIDE of the rear differential case, if an F-150 has limited slip ? Are there codes stamped into the housing ? A tag ? Is there a way, using the VIN number, to determine this ? Do I need to contact ford ? The truck is a 2001 F-150 Supercab 2x4 "Sport" XLT. thanks.
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