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Comments
Thanks,
Rick
that I can see. The under side looks OK- normal rust wear.
But inside the cab on the drivers side where the emergency brake is attached there is surface rust all over the metal plate that the
E brake pedal is attached. Is this normal?
The inside is very clean so I do not understand why there is rust inside the cab. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank You.
if it's isolated to that part and not on the body I wouldn't worry about it. Unpainted cast iron just gets like that - it's usually thick enough to outlast the life of the car before any significant wear takes place.
Thanks for your input- I will keep an eye on it.
When I clean the interior I just wipe it down with a WD-40 soaked
cloth the best I can and that helps.
BTW- My beautiful truck is showing a 1/4 inch drivers side door crack! (next to window on the right) A LOT of 98/99 f150 owners have this defect - I would not have gone with a Ford had I known before purchase, this is my first Ford.
I bought an extended cab truck so my wife and two girls can fit. I had a Toyota pick-up reg. cab 4x4 - but had to sell it because it needed a rear engine seal. It ran great.
what does Ford have to say about that?
I haven't had time yet to explore it further but there is a lot of talk about it. I have looked at all the F150's in my area
(upstate NY), that I come across, work parking lot, malls,
from 1997 on up to 99- most have the crack.
Unbelievable to say the least-
The truck is 6 years old and out of Ford's warranty.
A lot of trucks with this crack started in otherwise perfect condition.
can't find anything on it in the owners manual.
About 2 months ago, I had a flat with my '04 XLT in the rain. The sidewall was punctured so the air inflator I carry with me was of no use. And of course I was wearing a dress suit. Can't tell you how much fun I had that night.
a good place to start is the 'editor reviews' here in Edmunds on the two vehicles.
I test drove the Chevy Silverado before buying my new Ford F150. I'm entitled to the GM family discount pricing, so I was obligated to at least check out the Chevy. Even with the "family" pricing, you can do better on your own using all the dealer incentives that are out there.
I probably would have chosen the ford before it's '04 make over due to a better reputation (IMO), but since Ford has totally re built the F150 for 2004, it was a slam dunk. Quieter cab, more refined, better looking (IMO), awesome cab design, where as the Chevy (GM) makes cheap tacky looking interiors.
you can quote me
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my guess it's for the compas and exterior temperature -
Any help would be much appreciated. I need to pick it up at the dealer tomorrow and I'm sort of at a loss about what to do. thanks.
I have a 2004 f150 with the same problems at 3000 miles. The dealer greased the spline sp???
This has seemed to take care of the problem,
but they only fixed it last week.
Hope this helps
Thanks.
Shawn.
I have the '04 F150 smaller V8, and while it suits my needs (light towing) I would definitely recommend you get the 5.4 litre V8 for towing a horse.
great truck = love the quiet cab.
I always get the biggest engine but my folks tow a 6000 lb travel trailer with a '04 GMC with the smaller engine (4.8). I prefer the most power available but NEED is a pretty strong word.
kip
Ao much for theory, now practicle experience. As the owner of a 97 F-150, I find the Ford trailer rating to be about the most the you want to try. My F-150 with a 4.6 and the towing ratio rear end is rated at 6800 lbs. I tow a 4500 lb. gooseneck with two horses with no problem. However, acceleration is not great when towning. Since I tow about 1% of the time this is not a problem. The other 99% of the time I get better gas mileage for having the smaller engine. The biggest problem is braking capacity. If I had the bigger engine I tried towing its larger capacity, I still wouldn't have any more brakes. Ford has steadily improved their breaks, but it is an issue to be concerned about. The Super Duty line has much better brakes. All that said, I just got an 04 Expedition with the 5.4. The extra get up and go is a lot of fun. You should expect about 1 mpg worse gas mileage on the 5.4 so plug that cost into the life of the vehicle.
I am looking at a really nice 1991 F-150 XLT 4x4(locking hubs) with the 5.0 302 engine and a 4 or 5(not sure the guy at the dealer said 4 speed, but reverse was in the same area as it is in a five speed) speed manual transmission(manual only way to go with Ford IMHO), and I think dual gas tanks, and I think it's got a pretty good size bed maybe not 8ft but the next one down.
Is there anything I need to know about the reliability of this truck, anything bad about the engine or transmission, any kind of quirks, or weird things that I should know about. Also is the 302 pretty stout or is it gutless, someone said it doesn't have the kind of low end torque a truck should have, but said it's still fast higher up in the RPM range. Any help is much appreciated thanks in advance.
Oh the price of the truck is $3950 and it's a beatiful dark blue color paint and is almost flawless, with no rust I could see. Has anyone used Gibson Hedders and exhuast? They are the only brand of Hedders in the JCWhitney catalog that give TQ and HP numbers with and without the Hedders at 2500 RPM and 3500 RPM, and it's pretty impressive, and If I get a truck I am not content to stick with a stock truck, and hedders are cheap easy power. Does anyone know of any chip like performance parts that work on a 1991 Ford F-150?
Oh and does anyone know why the locking Hubs are supposed to make the gas mileage better? To me it takes some of the practicallity of 4x4 away. Does anyone know if there is maybe a kit to make it like power door locks and hit a button from in the cab and it locks the hubs. What kind of gas mileage can I expect from the 302 maybe 16 MPG? I think thats all my questions for now sorry to take up half a page.
Check out the Brake Lines - they start rusting out and can give you a real thrill. Another pain in the butt rust problem is the oil pan on the 302 motor. It gets porous rust spots. Have to jack up the motor in order to change the pan.
I have a 4x2, and only get 14 mpg at best. Low end depends on the gear ratio in the rear end.
Today, however, I was sitting in line waiting for a DEQ vehicle inspection. Engine was on, gear set in Park, foot off the gas. I leaned over to the right to move something on the seat and WHAMMO--the gear shifter jumped into Reverse and sent me smashing into the car behind me. Not much damage, but a terrifying incident and very maddening. The techs at DEQ said that's a common problem with Fords--anybody else have this happen to them??
However, any truck with that amount of age and miles, can't be expected to be perfect. It really adds up to how well it was maintained.
wanted to find out what happened to your sister's
5.4. I've got a 1998 f-150 that has blown 2 sparks plugs..one they were able to screw back in, some threads left.(that was a couple years ago) The latest one blew out like a shotgun blast and took the threads with it. The Easy Care extended warranty I bough from the Ford dealer at 35,000 miles didn't want to pay to replace the head until I fought it. (inspector determined that the spark plugs were over torqued at the factory) Now we discover one cylinder is very low on compression and upon taking the engine out we find that the piston skirts are warn from slapping the cylinder walls and they are now scored. the tech says we should put in a rebuilt long block from Ford but Easy Care is denying the claim saying it was due to poor maintenance. The crank bearings are also worn. The threads in the cylinder could have caused some wear and may have worked their way down into the bottom of the engine but it sure is disappointing since the truck is in nice shape and has only 70,000 miles. Any ideas? On how to battle Easy Care, just found out today!
I have a 92' F-150xl custom with a 4.9L six and 5 speed manual transmission. The problem I am experiencing is subtle but is getting worse. It takes place when I am in third or fourth gear going between 25-45 mph. If the rpms are low the truck periodically jerks. I used to be able to leave it in a higher gear and slow down and pick up would be fine. This problem does not show itself until after the engine has reached almost normal operating temperature. Taking off when it is still cold there is no problem. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires all replaced. I am just looking for advise to where I should start first. Fuel, electrical etc.....