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Ford F-150 Owners

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Comments

  • bessbess Posts: 972
    On the sticker on the door jamb, there is an 'axle code' listed:
    18- 3.08
    19- 3.55
    26- 3.73
    27- 3.31
    H9- 3.55LS
    B6- 3.73LS
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    On the sticker on the door jamb, there is an 'axle code' listed:
    18- 3.08
    19- 3.55
    26- 3.73
    27- 3.31
    H9- 3.55LS
    B6- 3.73LS

    Sometimes I've seen this sticker not have the axle code listed.. There's also a tag on the rear diff as well..
  • I have a 2001 supercrew with a 5.4 and 4WD and lots of neat options.This truck has an aftermarket air intake,exhaust and chip.Let me tell you this truck is Big,Fast and Very Protective of its occupants.It hauls anything anywhere and Tows,Tows,Tows.My utility trailer,my camper,with 4 or 5 people and a bed full of gear and beer.When I around town it to my kids school functions or whatever,my mind is at ease that this vehicle is very capable of any situation.Accident protection with the 4 full doors and full B pillar, and the height is a piece of mind you can't put a price on.My kids and I ride high and safe,even from other suv type vehicles. While all the extended cab models (Ford Gm or dodge) do not have a b pillar structure,during a collision they tend to fold right at that spot where the 2 doors meet.That is just inherent to that type of design.Crewcab or any 4 door vehicle with a post always fare well in collisions-Ford Crown Vics especially.I have been a Police officer for ten years and have seen guys crack these up a lot-even roll em over,and most always walk away.if anything the extra equipment inside causes an injury or two-police radio and/or computer are not really positioned for accident safety.Only drawback on this truck is its size in a parking lot.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    ..for info on axle codes. Much appreciated.
    :-)
  • dass444dass444 Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a picture of a 4-Door F-150 Harley Davidson Edition, (preferably lowered), with a sun roof...I've seen one around at a Starbucks near me, and as soon a i saw this truck I fell in LOVE with it. So if anyone has a Picture of a REALLY nice Black 4-door Harley Davidson Edition i would really appreciate it...so i can drool over the picture all day. If you have one e-mail me at Zombie5960@aol.com or if you know any websites having pictures of this car i would really be grateful!

    Thanks Everyone!!
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    pictures that I use on my Desktop, most of which came from the Sportruck.com website from thier show coverage.
  • dass444dass444 Posts: 2
    Thx everyone for telling me a website and even one of you sending me an emailed picture...once again thx!
  • ad8ad8 Posts: 6
    We currently own a 1985 F-150. This truck is finally starting to die. We put a new motor in it about 2 years ago. The body is just starting to rust. The problem is we will be heartbroken if and when we have to take it off the road. This truck has been amazing. It has hauled and helped us out alot around our house. We really hate to let it die but good things do come to an end.

    We are looking for another truck but since its been so long with this truck, we are not sure if we should stick with a Ford because of the great luck or possibly buy a Chevy.

    Anyone have any opinions? We are listening.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Check out the Chevy/GMC truck discussions on here. If you do NOT like the SHAKES and VIBRATION when you drive, buy a Tundra or an F-150...in that order.
    GMC/ Silverado seem to be the "King of the Vibrators". The mediocre reliability of Dodge pretty much rules it out. Good luck.
  • crosley4crosley4 Posts: 295
    I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x2 xtra cab and a 2001 Ford Super Crew 4x2.

    I've never had the shakes in my Chevy cept when it was heavily loaded. When loaded the rear half of the drive shaft is at a bad angle to the pinion gear. It does seem like a bad design to me. I've read that the shakes seem to be in more 4x4 GM trucks than the 4x2's.

    I lowered my Super Crew 2 inches front and back. i did have to correct the pinion angle to stop a vibration in it.
  • tgravo2tgravo2 Posts: 70
    Anyone have the Keyless Start option or know how this works on the new F-150's??? After you start the engine can you just get in and drive, or do you still have to put the key in. I'm just a little curious on how this works. Thanks for any info.
  • autonutsautonuts Posts: 138
    with 101,000mi. on it. The truck appears to be in very good shape, but know looks are deceiving. The current owner (#3) is asking $5,000 for it which is high compared to what Edmunds and KBB says it should be. Both say it should run about $3,600. The interior looks great as well as the body. It has the 4.9l 6cyl. in it with 2 tone paint and the XLT package. Owner says he is selling it only because he needs money to compensate for some stolen goods? He has owned it only a short while. What do you all think?
  • autonutsautonuts Posts: 138
    I passed on it. The owner wouldn't budge on the price so I let it go.
  • I have a 2000 F-150 with just over 26,000 miles on it. Today, when changing the air filter, I noticed that the paint is starting to bubble from rust on the leading edge of the hood. This truck is washed a lot, so I'm wondering if this is a problem that others have had. Just trying to get some backround info before I go to my dealer.
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    More than likely you have a paint flaw on your truck. I believe the hood on the F-150 is made of aluminum. (I know the 97's were)I would take the truck to the service department and have them look at it.
  • autonutsautonuts Posts: 138
    Can someone tell me what a 1988 Ford F-250 with 66,000 original miles, no apparent rust problems, not sure what engine size (female owner didn't know),auto. trans., two-tone paint (red/white), red interior should go for? Does anyone know what size engines were available in that year's F-250? Thanks.
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Posts: 189
    Try posting over on the smart shopper forum under "Real World Trade-in Values" Terry (rroyce) is the truck expert, and can give you a good idea on current wholesale & retail. Be sure to put the area of the country you live in, as truck values vary greatly between regions. Happy Shopping.
  • kcowboykcowboy Posts: 33
    Hey frey44 is right, I'd stay away from a GM product they have countless problems. I sold my 86 Ford F150 XLT last summer. It had 175,000 on and still ran good, its got about 200,000 on now and the fellow I sold it to says its running fine. I've always owned a F150 and they have been good. I bought 2001 Tundra SR5 V8 Access cab last summer because of the great deal I got on it. They were offering a $5000.00 rebate plus it came loaded with everything on it that would have cost me extra if I went with Ford are Dodge. I didn't even consider Chevy because of the problems they were having. If I wouldn't got the Toyota Tundra I would have definitely gone back with Ford.

    The Tundra has been great so far, plenty of power and runs real smooth. I hope it lasts as long as my 86 F150 did.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Posts: 387
    And would like to hear some comments on them from owners. Late models of course since Im looking at a 2002 model.

    How is the reliability? (Visits to shop)
    How is the ride? (Esp on highways)
    Comfort (Ive noticed the 60/40 bench seats are horrible)

    Any thoughts on pros/cons on F-150 over Chevy, Dodge, and Toyota would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance!
  • crosley4crosley4 Posts: 295
    We own a 2001 F-150 Super Crew, 5.4 motor and a 2000 Silverado xtra cab, 1500, 5.3 motor. Both trucks are 4x2. It's the first Ford I have owned from new.

    Quite happy with both trucks. I am a GM guy for 4 decades. I beleive I like the Ford over the Chevy now. The ford is a Lariat which has a higher level of options than the Chevy.

    The chevy averages about 1 mpg better than the Ford. The Chevy will out pull the Ford, but the chevy has a lower rear end gear(3.73 vs 3.55 Ford).

    Both trucks ride about the same. I did lower the Ford 2 inches front and rear.

    We have the bucket seats in the Ford and they sit us real well. We are not tall people though. I am 5' 7" soaking wet and my wife is 2" shorter.

    The Ford's adjustable pedals are great for us. We can leave the power drivers seat in nearly the same spot and my wife moves the pedals closer and she is set.

    We have the bucket seats in the chevy too. They are comfortable, cloth not leather stuff like the Ford.

    THe chevy(25k miles) has only been to the dealer for the little recall stuff they mail to you. The Ford(10k miles) has only been back to get a new key ($78.00 transponder type)that must be programed to the trucks computer system.

    If you BUY a new Ford truck get and extra key programed to the truck so you have "3" good keys!! The truck's on board system will program a new key IF you have TWO functioning keys. loose a key and only have ONE key.... you must go to Ford to get a key.

    After market locksmiths may have the computer system to program a new key like Ford, but the guys I called wanted $150.00 and up for a new key that cost $78.00 from Ford. For regular dupicate key the locksmiths want around $25-30.00 if you have TWO good keys for your truck.

    Hope did not confuse you. 78 bucks for a new ignition key was a tough one for this middleaged guy to handle. It's the first car key my wife of 29 years has ever lost. Of course she looses the expensive one.

    We never looked at Dodges. THe Tundras are a bit too small for us and the beds are shallower than a full size GM or Ford. Toyota quality is second to none, so it depends on what vehicle you need......
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Posts: 189
    Well, at least Jaguar hasn't started making trucks...yet...,

    I've got a 99 F-150 supercab Lariat with the 5.4 V8, and have 80K on the odometer. With the exception of the brakes, it's been trouble free. After I had the tires replaced at about 50K miles, the pads started wearing out every 5K. I've had the rotors replaced (twice), but I've still got a bit of vibration when braking. I suspect that something warped in the tire exchange, so I don't necessarily hold this against Ford. (This is apparently a very common problem with Chrysler/Jeep products, as well).

    The bucket seats are reasonably comfortable, and I did quite a bit of highway cruising in it. I previously had a 97 GMC full size which unfortunately was not as reliable. Mulitple transmission problems starting at 50K miles which were very difficult and expensive to repair. In addition, the previous GMC/Chevy trucks had to have special parts for a front wheel alignment which made this otherwise routine procedure somewhat expensive.

    If you need less of a work truck & more of a daily driver, the Toyota is an excellent choice. Great Reliability & Superior Crash Test Scores, but slightly less towing capacity, if I'm not mistaken.

    Will answer more specific question if you've got em. Good Luck with whatever you choose.
  • marymudmarymud Posts: 3
    Hi. I went to look at a F150 today but now I can not figure out which exact type it was. It was a 1992, supercab pickup, auto, power steering, power windoes and locks, 8 cyclinder (the dealer guy said a V8 but the cylinders were grouped together in a round group not in a line or V shaped). I has bucket type seats in the front and a beanch type seat in the back (could fit 3 small people). It also had 2 gas tanks. 105K miles on it.
    So...Do you know which type it is? If so I'm tring to find out if it is a good truck or not. The dealer is asking $5,250 (thay wanted $6000 at first).

    Thanks for any help.

    Mary
    mfminahan@yahoo.com
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    It's either a 5.0L v8 or 5.8L v8.

    You forgot to mention whether its a 4x2 or 4x4.. For only 6k, I would have to assume its either a 4x2 in decent shape or a 4x4 thats only in fair condition.
    Not seeing the vehicle, it's difficult to judge, but 5,000 seems very reasonable..
  • marymudmarymud Posts: 3
    Thanks you Bess. I'm not sure if it is a 5.0 or 5.8 L V8. I think it is only a 4x2 because I did not see anything that could shift it into 4 wheel drive.
    Do you know how long or how many miled a F150 can last for? I am wondering at 105K miles if this is the breaking point?
    Thanks,
    Mary
  • marymudmarymud Posts: 3
    Do you know or do you know how I could find out what type of gas milage an 1992 F150 8cyl would get?
    Mary
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Hi,
    I've got a '95 F150, 5.0L V8, with ~170K miles on it. It's still running strong, and not as pretty as it used to be, but it was well taken care of. Did a lot of highway miles, but always had oil changed at ~ 3000 mile intervals. I had to replace tranny at around 125K. It's needed a new starter, and a throttle position sensor, but every thing else has been normal maintenance items - tires, shocks, belts, hoses, etc.
    Are there any maintenance records with vehicle? Is the dealer a Ford Dealer - he could probably run the VIN # and see if it has a service record. You can also run Vin # through Autocheck (?) to find out if it's ever been in accidents, or had comprehensive insurance claims against it (vandalism, flood, etc.). Do you have a private auto mechanic that you trust? If so, ask dealer if you can have your mechanic inspect the truck as a condition of sale. Check phone book, some areas have used car inspection services that go over vehicle from top to bottom and give you a report. The $100+ cost would be worth it if they save you from making a $$$ mistake.
    As far as mileage goes, my 5.0L is not great (its an extended cab, long bed, 4x2). It gets approx. 12 mpg around town, 15-17 on highway depending on how fast/hard you drive.

    Good Luck.

    Wp
  • bcogarbcogar Posts: 1
    Has anyone heard about the 5.4L on the F150 having a oil crankcase leak. I've heard this from about 3 different people now. They say if you develop it and go to Ford, even after the warranty they will fix it.
  • jcave1jcave1 Posts: 137
    My last truck was a '92 F-150 4X4 supercab shortbed with five speed manual tranny. It had been maintained however at 150k miles it needed engine work primarily with the heads. There are tons of these on the market therefore trade in value stinks. Paint and interior held up very well. Those captians chairs are very comfortable. The backseat folds down giving you a steel platform all the way across. Mileage when new was about 15, at trade in was about 11.

    If possible you should check maintenance, particulary the auto tranny. It needs to be maintained properly, drained, and flushed. Check the tranny fluid, it shouldn't look or smell burned at all. Burned would be a brownish color, not a nice red.

    I see lots of these in the 6 - 8k range but most are 4X4. Add another 1500 or so for that option. We're partial to 4X4's out here.

    I'd say at $5,200, it could be a decent price depending at least these things.

    Mine served very well. The oxygen sensor would fail about every 40k miles which is fairly normal I'm told. Overall I was very satisfied. Have a 2001 Superduty Powerstroke Diesel today. The
    F-150 was good enough that I decided to stay Ford.

    jerry
  • eleets00eleets00 Posts: 27
    Hello all. I would like to know if anyone here owns the 2000 F150 Harley Davidson SuperCab &/or the 2001 F150 Harley Davidson CrewCab. How do they drive? How is the reliability? What is the gas mileage like? I'm looking at the 2002 Ram Quad Cab, but like the Harley Davidson F150's better. But.. after my 96 Contour fiasco, I'm skeptical of buying another Ford product (I've heard the horror stories on the pre-2K2 Ram's). I have a 48 mile round trip to work every day. Plus I plan on getting sport bike & would like to know which one is better equipped to handle the bike. How much should I expect to pay for either? Any info/advice anyone can provide will greatly appreciated.

    PS - Anyone know where I can get some info on the next generation F150's?
  • mwautomwauto Posts: 4
    I have an 2002 F-150 Suprcrew with 7,300 miles and the transmission slips intermitently between first and second gear approximately 10 times per week. I notice it mainly in stop-n-go traffic when I do not come to a complete stop or leaving a parking lot etc. and go to accelerate. The vehicle jerks when the rear wheels finally catch and I have heard a metal scraping noise from the rear once. It has been in the shop twice so far and they have been unable to find anything. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
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