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Ford F-150 Owners

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Comments

  • jblack1jblack1 Posts: 2
    Yeah when I do have fuel injection - and when I switch the tank selector switch to the front one it doesn't start up either.... Right now the only time it starts is when I spray starter fluid or gas into the blank tube under the engine that connects to the Fuel Regulator or something like that (Truck is still at my uncles repo-lot and i dont know much about the naming of the parts)... Then it starts out perfectly..

    How do I check to see if it's a low PSI problem that i'm having?

    Also - I noticed normally when i would turn the key to the on position you'd hear something start to hum... to me it sounded like it was coming from the engine compartment somewhere but that may not be the case...
  • dop50dop50 Posts: 162
    You'll need to borrow a gauge from someone or have someone test it for you. Unhook the fuel line at the engine and attach the pressure gage. It will tell you how much pressure the fuel pump is making.

    The fuel pumps are electric so just turning the key part way (to the "on" position) will make it run. You don't need to turn it all the way to the start position.

    If you are not a mechanical minded person, I would recommend you take it (or have it towed) to a mechanic.

    Ken
  • trosnowtrosnow Posts: 1
    Hi, I've had a problem with my 89 f150 xlt lariat, mainly oil pressure, changed sending unit & pump, still a problem. I was wondering if you could tell me where the oil pressure sensor is and how much do they cost ? Any help would be very much appreciated ! Thanks, Tracey
  • here is my problem:

    I have a 1990 -f-150 extended cab 5.0 liter v-8 dual tanks.

    when i start the truck and drive for 30 to 45 minutes it just quits
    when it quits if i attempt to restart the starter drags as if the battery is low on charge, which is not the case. and will not restart for a period of time (usually 30 to 45 minutes).
    then it will start and run in the same way as i have described above.
    i used to be a ford dealer elec systems tech and i dont recall a
    problem quite like this.

    i have been told by variuos sources that it could be the TFI module ,the EEC or the rear fuel pump ,the front pump was inoperable when i purchased it. does any body have any ideas as this is getting to be a pain in the A**.
  • dave150dave150 Posts: 5
    Does anyone know of solutions to a brake problem with my 2004 F-150? From the beginning, and now at 32,000 miles, I have been into the dealer 7 times because of vibrations (warped rotors mostly). This is getting ridiculous. I have been told every line, from brake shorter & harder, to the pads are now harder than the rotors, to...You name it. Well, bottom line is, they're giving up on working them. I have even had the rotors replaced 11,000 & 23,000. As a repeat F-150 owner, I have never had such problems with brake wear. Does anyone have a solution? Would be greatly appreciated!!! Obviously, I'd like to avoid going through brakes every 9-15k miles for the rest of the vehicles life!...P.S. I rarely drive in the city & very rarely tow anything. Thank you in advance for your help & suggestions.
  • gasman1gasman1 Posts: 321
    My front and rear rotors/pads were replaced on my '04 F150 REG cab with 31K miles. Fortunately, Ford service department has been great! I've read here and at other F150 sites that the original equipment aluminum wheels (F150 2WD 17" cast aluminum) may not allow the proper air flow to cool the brakes. The '04 wheels are not available in "05. I have the 75K ESP and may get a chance to use it. Front rotors were replaced at 23K with no further problems to date. The rear rotors were replaced at 28K.

    Options are to: a) hope the replacements hold up; b) replace the rotors/pads with premium after-market (to expensive for my taste); or c) replace the wheels. I'm sticking with a) for now. Best of luck!
  • dave150dave150 Posts: 5
    Thanks gasman1. None are cheap alternatives, of course. But I didn't pay attention to the '05's to notice they don't make put those wheels on anymore...Hmmmmm....Very interesting!
  • Ok im new to this and thought I'd give it a try. Im having problems with my oil pressure gauge on my 1989 F150. It will show in the normal range when i turn my key on but the needle will bury itself towards the left side when engine is running. I changed out the pick up switch or sending unit (whatever its called). but get the same results.This leaves me to think the actual "gauge" is working properly since it registers with key in the on pos. or engine running. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Russell Chadwick
  • deborah2deborah2 Posts: 1
    Hey Everyone,

    I am a woman with a 2x4 F150 XLT with the 5.4 engine and you know what??? I can drive that 2x4 in all kinds of weather and road conditions. If you know how to drive then you don't need all four wheels to do the work for you. It is all a matter of control and speed in iffy road conditions. Remember, before there was the all-wheel-drive there was just the rear wheel drive. So when looking for a truck don't overlook the 2x4. I wouldn't suggest the mini trucks because they do not have enough weight in the truck as a whole to give you enough traction to drive! P.S. I love my ford truck built tough!
  • dragaidragai Posts: 1
    Will any other f150 model have a radiator or throttle cable that is compatable with an 89 f150. I ask cause the local salvage yard doesn't specifically have an 89.
  • fordyfordy Posts: 1
    2000 F150. Wondering if and where the cabin filter is located. Is this a dealer installed option or standard?
  • Hi Russell,

    Does any of the other gauges act up when your having problems with oil pres.? If so, there is a constant voltage regulator (part # D1AZ-10804-A) that could be the problem as it controls the voltage to the oil pres. and (I think) the amp meter. This reg. is located on the instrument printed circuit board (you'll have to pull the cluster) and is about 2" long and 1" wide, two wires going to it with a small attatching bracket. They list for about $70, but you can shop on this as there's lots of mark-up in them, but I think it's a dealer item only. An aggressive dealer will give you a break. If this is not it, it's the dash unit and it'll come with whatever gauge is close to it, like the amp gauge(?). If you don't have a way of checking which it is, you might inquire as to the price of diagnosing this. It may be worth your while.

    Good luck, Gator
  • mikey7mikey7 Posts: 2
    I'm working on a '91 F-150 4.9L 4X4 LWB with the dual-tank setup (18.2 rear, 17 midship). The rear tank came with a pretty good leak at the 3-gallon mark or so, and the front tank recently stopped supplying enough gas to keep the fire going. I replaced the rear tank and pump, and it now runs fine on it, but it seems to be feeding a lot of gas from the tank, based on the rapid fall of the rear gauge. I suspect the reservoir is feeding return-line gas to the front tank instead of the rear, but can't be sure since the front gauge is pegged on E. I'm trying to find a replacement front tank and pump, but so far no luck. I'm beginning to lean toward removing the front tank altogether and capping the lines until I can find replacement parts (if needed) and spend some time working on it. (Finally) here are my questions:

    1) The wiring diagram shows only 2 pumps, and I can't find the 3rd high-pressure pump you refer to. Where is it, exactly? Are you sure this isn't a Diesel-only pump?

    2) I only have a vague idea of where the reservoir is, and am beginning to think an investment in removing the truck bed before continuing the assault on the fuel system is in order. Any opinions on that?

    mfa
  • mykl330mykl330 Posts: 1
    hey... i have a '98 F-150... its only got at 4.2L V-6 but i installed a flowmaster dual exhaust and a K&N intake filter... which increased horsepower and gas milage some... im looking for the next thing to spend my money on... mainly looking for horsepower... have any suggestions??
  • kpapkpap Posts: 2
    http://consumeraffairs.com/automotive/ford_spark.html
    check out this link about spark plug problems, etc. Whether or not Ford has attended this matter, is not yet clear.
  • kpapkpap Posts: 2
    http://consumeraffairs.com/automotive/ford_spark.html
    here's a link to consumer affairs section on f150's. you can do a search to see if anyone has had a similar problem here...
  • mnk1mnk1 Posts: 2
    i'm hoping someone here could help me. we just bought this truck recently and it did not come with a user's manual. i contacted ford and the best they could do is to tell me that they will send me their towing guide which contains a formual that i can use to figure out my towing capacity. they said i should have the guide in 14 days or so...grrr!!!
    anyway, if anyone has an idea of what the towing capacity on this truck is, i would really appreciated. i'm shopping for a horse trailer and don't want to commit myself to something that will be too heavy.
    thanks!
  • You didn't say what cab configuration or axle ratio you have, but I'm reading this out of my ('94) owner's manual and it should be the same. With a 3.08 axle, stnd. cab, it's 2200 lbs. and Super Cab...1900 lbs. With a 3.55 axle, stnd. cab... 3600lbs. and a Super Cab...3300 lbs....and these, I'm sure are assuming that the running gear is in excellent cond.

    I don't know what a single horse trailer weighs empty, but by the time you get a horse in it, I'd emagine you'll be over capacity acording to these specs. You'd also need to check tongue weight as well.

    I would have to think that towing ANY horse trailer (loaded) you'd need at least a 3/4 ton to 1 ton truck.
  • mnk1mnk1 Posts: 2
    thanks!
    that does seem v. low.
    i know many people who haul with half ton trucks without a problem. but you're correct. at minimum you have to plan that the trailer will weigh 2000lbs and then one horse probably another 1000 or more.
  • i have a 78 ford f-150 1 wheel drive. i want to get 2 wheel drive. how would i do that
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Because tyour truck is so old, your best bet would be a web search using "1978", "Ford", "F-150", and "differential" as keywords.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • t2b1r3t2b1r3 Posts: 4
    mfa

    Re read my post # 210 so you have a fresh take on how the fuel supply system works and then rethink your situation. If your truck runs on the rear tank, then we can assume that the rear in-tank pump is powered and working, and the frame mounted high pressure pump is OK as well. Check the operation of the tank selector switch on the dash to insure that it supplies power to the selected tanks pump in each position (and only to the tank selected). You should also be able to check the fuel levels in each tank with the key on and the switch in the correct position. This switch controls the power to the selected tanks fuel pump, as well as the output of its fuel level sending unit. If everything checks out to this point, then I suspect your problem is with the combination reservoir/tank selector., which looks like a black plastic filter and is mounted to the frame under the drivers side of the cab. Could be mounted slightly different on a 4x but will be in the line between the hp pump and the fuel tank. Its purpose is to provide the correct alignment of the supply and return fuel lines as well as providing a continuous supply of gas to the hp pump when changing between tanks. Sorry for the slow response and hope this helps.

    Regards
    AJ
  • mlowemlowe Posts: 1
    Dear Ken

    I have the same fuel pump problem as you have described. There are some listed recalls that Ford will fix. Any luck with it so far?

    I am going to check out the dealership on the recall issue, but please let me know if you have solved it.

    Thanks, Marcus
  • aeroaceaeroace Posts: 1
    I have had a 2002 F150 for 2 years. I have had the rotors turned 3 times. I mostly do highway driving (cruise control), and some light duty house work on the weekends. So I wouldn't exactly call it an "abusive" environment.
    Ford sells a premium rotor that is 3/8" thicker, which, interestingly enough, still fits into the stock caliper.
    Their stock rotors just suck, they aren't thick enough.
  • Ken,

    Do you have the exact name of the reservoir as described by FORD? I believe I need one. I thought it was called a fuel tank tranfer valve. Thanks........Paul
  • Gator, Thank you very much for your help on this. I haven't checked it out yet but i will ASAP.

    Russ
  • bigtankbigtank Posts: 1
    :sick: i have had my f150 since feb 04 i use it for work i have had to replace my rotors four times first two times was with a non ford dealer second two times was with a ford dealer they told me the new 05 was replaced with an upgraded brake system and they put that in my truck still having problems i replaced them on avr every 12k that is ludicus i will be trading it in for sorry to say chevy.
  • I am looking to purchase a 2000 F-150 Ford that is listed as a Lariat package, but what features are normally included in such a package to call it a Lariat ? Isn't leather interior a common feature ?

    Any thoughts ?

    grinch412
  • mos52dmos52d Posts: 1
    I am in Alaska and originally from Vermont. Rear wheel drives do allright with Snow tires, not allseasons and preferably with studs, check local restrictions.
    Put additional weight in the back 200 pounds or more and as long as you are not a leadfoot you should do all right. Through time when you can afford it get a Four wheel drive but once again do not be a lead foot, even with four wheel drive you can end up in the dicth if you are going to fast.
  • i was wondering is y'all could help me. i have a 2004 regular cab FX4. thats right a 04 regular cab FX4. i have a vibration when i first take off no mater how hard the accelorater is pushed and when traveling 25-30 mph no matter if accelerating, braking, or just idiling along at that speed. hell, you could probably roll the truck down a hill in nuetral and it would probaby vibrate at 25 mph. i have had it back at the dealer total of 4 times now, in-fact i just got back from geting it tonight. they have replaced the driveshaft, u-joint at rear end, adjusted the pinion angle, and they also told me they can't fix it. the truck has 10,500 miles. it is regular cab fx4 with i have found it is very rare at least in southeastern virginia. i have a feeling the problem is mostly because the back end is so much higher than the front. i live on a farm, so as you can guess the truck has seen its share of off road. i am not talking about rock climbing or mud bogging, i am just talking about average off roading to get through fields. i have not pulled anything with it or have i loaded the truck down. the most i have put on it is about 800 pounds. this is the only problem i have had with it. every other aspect of this truck works perfectly, i wouldn't trade it for anything. i just need to get this vibration fixed. so if any of yall have had the same problems please let me know.
    thanks
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