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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

Wondering what wax is best? Can I really fix tiny scratches myself? Post your exterior questions and answers here!

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Comments

  • They aren't true waxes but Blackfire and Zaino are some of the best polishes you'll find for a reasonable price.
  • renzorenzo Posts: 6
    I just bought a new Solara, and I HATE having to park in the lot at my condo. There are a lot of people there that really don't care if they hit your car with their doors, or they have kids and don't watch the kids with the doors.

    Here's a question for ya - I have a choice of the lot, or along the loop road that goes around the condo complex. In the parking lot, the car could get dinged. On the loop road, someone could sideswipe it. Where would you park, given the choice?
  • We live in an apartment too ! We park outside in the complex, but we have accumulated two dents in only 6 months. We have a carport too, but the sprinkler gets the hood wet everyday which was leaving water spots on the paint. So its a tough decision. I would have to park on the side loop if i were you, but it's a matter of opinion, rigt?
    Good Luck though !
    Truckdude1
  • I use Mother's Gold California stage I, II, and III. Bought these plus applicator pads, cotton cloths, etc for about $36 and did at least 6 clean/polish/wax jobs out of it, which would have cost me more than $500 at a car wash!!

    I followed the procedure from one of the articles on this website, and it works out real good.

    -acd
  • Has anybody used this product ...or have any opinions about it? It is supposed to remove the "blob" that's left after using touch-up paint. Do car dealers really use it?

    http://www.langka.com/index.htm#top

    TIA

    --'rocco
  • squidd99squidd99 Posts: 288
    I don't know whether car dealers use it or not, but I have used it and it works very well.

    The deal is that the touch up paint is different from the type of paint applied at the factory, and the Langka is a creamy solvent for the touch up paint. So you put a dab of the touch up paint in the nick (using a toothpick works well), then let that dry for anywhere from a half-hour to a day or two, then use the Langka on a soft cloth to wipe it gradually down to the level of the original paint. The kit comes with a flexible plastic holder for the soft cotton cloth, and I have found that it is much better than any other method I have used to touch up nicks in the front of my car.

    Sometimes, however, I will take too much of the touch up paint off, and so I have to start over again, so sometimes you have to be patient and do it all over again, but when you get it right it gives a great result.

    I have used it on my new black Lexus SC430, and several dings I picked up on the front of the hood from highway stones are now undetectible.

    I'd say buy some and try it out. It will not make anything worse, and I have found that it helps make the touch up job easier and with a very good result.
  • Thanx for your comments! I might give it a try although I've read on another board that a glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze works just as well if used in the same manner for less price per ounce so I may do a bit more research.

    --'rocco
  • I have little/no patience/skill when it comes to painting. I just purchased an '84 Town Car with a pretty good paint job. It's not faded or oxidized but it does have a few chips and scratches in it. My question is: Am I better off having the entire care re-painted or can I just get the blemishes taken care of and have the finish still look good?

    Thanks in advance,

    Land Yacht
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    http://www.urethanesupply.com/3400.htm


    Lots of other good stuff at this site as well!

  • ochizonochizon Posts: 25
    I have some rust on my bumper from a small accident. I was planning on simply sanding down the rusted areas, covering up the rest of the car with plastic, and repainting the bumper with some flat black paint that i bought at the store. Is there anything wrong with my plan of action? Do I need to put primer first? Or is the flat paint enough?

    Thank you,

    Alex
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    one morning i was waxing my explorer and not knowing someone was watching me well sunday night into monday morning i got up went to the truck low and behold some one keyed the driver side door and the rear door question do i really need a body shop or a ??????? can some one help me with this one?? body shop said 511.00 i might getmy deduct lowered and get it fixed would that be smart or fraud help.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    If you take the bumper to bare metal you will need a primer...if not you can just go with the flat black
  • You need a good paint for bumpers. Don't just spray it with any old thing. Buy good paint made for the purpose.
  • i was egged last night and after washing today, i found what i think is the point of impact. can an egg be thrown hard enough to cause visible scratches by the broken shell? or am i just seeing residue from the egg? i tried some bug/tar remover to no avail
  • I have a 95 Acura Integra LS that has severe paint oxidation on the entire hood and roof. This car has spent the majority of its life in the garage and has been well taken care of. Does anyone out there have any suggestions for dealing with Acura? Or has anyone else had problems like this with their Acura. Or have any suggestions on how to fix it, we've tried several products to no avail, they just seem to be making the problem worse. It looks downright awful and is embarrassing to drive around because it looks so bad.

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!!
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    A seven year old car will be tough to get any relief from the manufacturer. Have you tried to polish the oxidation off using abrasive compounds and an orbital buffer? These can be found at most car part stores and range in grit from the rubbing compounds which are fairly abrasive, down to polishes and glazes which are for the most part pretty mild. Normally you would start with a less abrasive compound and move towards the more abrasive until you remove the offending oxidation, then go back until you use the least abrasive ones to remove any scratches or dullness from the more abrasive compounds. If you need to you can even go to 1500-3000 grit sandpaper which you can find in a store selling body shop supplies. This would be more abrasive than rubbing compound. If you do it yourself, 3M and Meguires makes a whole line of rubbing compounds, polishes and glazes for the consumer. Use a good quality buffer with the appropriate pad or bonnet. Be careful at the corners and edges, especially when using the more abrasive compounds and rubbing compound bonnets. Many of the better detailers will also polish a car, as will some body shops. The problem comes when the oxidation goes though the paint. When that happens, the only option you really have is to sand, prime and paint. But if the car is in good shape inside and mechanically, a litle money spent on paint might be worth it. Good luck.
  • A faulty garage door caused three deep scratches on the top rear of my brand new car, each scratch about eight inches long. A body shop estimate to repair was $540 (they were going to remove rear window, remove side moldings, repaint entire top, etc.). My new car dealer suggested using a "air brush" craftsman who comes to their place once every week. He did the job for $40. Under certain lighting you can just make out where the scratches were, but you almost need to know where to look. If the repair lasts, I will be well satisfied. Look for info on this at http://www.paintbull.com/article1.htm

    Does anyone else have experience with this process? Is there a downside I don't know about?
  • The only dowside I can think of is that this is essentially a cosmetic repair as dealers often do themselves, and being such, may not last all that long.
  • Mr Shiftright: Can you put a time estimate on that "may not last all that long" for me? And what will cause it to have a short life? Thank you.
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