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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

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  • I felt compelled to post here because of how thrilled I am to have my 2009 Chevy Impala back. After getting cut off and veering into a divider, I thought my car would be totaled. However, the good folks at Proline Body and Chassis in Elmwood Park saved me from having to look for another car.

    I was shocked to see how good it looked when I got it back a week later -- it was like I bought it new between the quality of the body work and the paint job. When I went to my long-time mechanic, he said he never would have suspected I had been in an accident. That's probably the best endorsement anyone can give for a body shop.
  • dlin13dlin13 Posts: 3
    Colin and Tallman

    Thanks for the responses! I didn't realize anyone had posted until I saw the most recent post. Appreciate the help.

    -Dave
  • Can someone in the know please tell me about this process? I am told it is superior to having a paint protector placed on new cars but I know little about it? Is it worth it to have your car "Minged"??? I'd appreciate hearing the good, the bad, & the ugly about "Ming".

    Thanks
  • Thanks for the link obyone, appreciate it. There doesn't seem to be much info as to whether MING is a good process apart from what the MING people put out? Anyone else have any experience with this process, good or bad?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    Sounds like voodoo to me.

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  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I agree with Shifty. In fact, I'm surprised that Ming is still around. I'm always suspect when a company says that you should only use their "special" car wash product.

    They also recommend that you never wax your car or take it through a commercial car wash. I hand wash all my cars but that may be a deal breaker for some.

    I did a quick Google search and found several detailing websites that trash Ming. I'm of the mindset that if you want your paint protected, use a quality wax every 3-4 months or a quality paint sealant every 9-12 months.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Funny what you described about using only their car wash and not taking it through car washes sounds like Zaino. Course you need to observe what type of brushes that the car washes use as they come from very firm to soft depending on how long the operator wants them to last. The better car washes which usually costs more have a soft fabric. Since I can't stand scratches in my clearcoat I wouldn't take any of my vehicles to a car wash.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Funny you should mention that... I was walking through a parking lot today and the sun was hitting the hood of each car I passed at just the right angle so that the swirl marks were obvious. Even the white cars looked bad.

    Huge difference when I got to mine. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    The more I read the Ming "rap" the funnier it gets. I wonder how Ming magic gets to "bond" the paint when there's a clear coat on top of it? Does it leak through it? X-rays?

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  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    How about a special formula that can penetrate the clear coat.... super tiny molecules. ;)
  • rjp3526rjp3526 Posts: 2
    I have a very large dent in the drivers side rear quarterpanel (side panel) - since its a brand new truck, and finished in pearl-coat black paint, I thought it would be best for the body shop to replace the entire body side panel. The first shop I got an estimate at agreed, said it would be much better than drilling, pulling the dent out, filling and sanding. I really want this repair to be invisible as its a brand new truck. But today I was discussing a 2nd estimate with the body-shop manager at the Dodge dealer where I bought the truck, (he has not actually looked at the large dent yet) and surprisingly to me atleast, he said its not always best to remove the entire quarterpanel (sorry I know that may not be the correct term) - but rather, since the factory welds on the side panel to the truck bed, and its such a difficult process to cut off the entire panel, put a new one on, and reweld it perfectly, he said sometimes it makes a much better job to leave the dented panel on the truck, pull the dent, fill it, & sand it. I was very shocked to hear him say this. Can any experienced body people on this forum please give me some advice & insight on who is correct here? Is it better to cut off the entire quarterpanel, weld a new one on, prime & paint, - or as the 2nd bodyshop guy said, does it sometimes make for a much better final result if they just drill, pull & fill the large dent ? Btw, the dent is just ahead of the rear corner tail light, right smack in the middle of the panel (about where you often see the "4x4" emblems on the rear sidepanels of pickups - and its maybe 2" deep of a dent, and about 10-12" square (roughly) in size. I can email you excellent pics of the damage if you want to see them, just provide your email ID - Thanks Very Much for any advice on this - I want this truck to come out as perfect as possible, it was almost 40k new just four months ago, and it was my "dream truck" of my life - this whole thing has been very upsetting for me.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Funny you should mention that. I got side swiped and took the car in for repair. The car has been zaino'd since day one. Couple of days later the shop owner calls me and says the the paint doesn't want to stick and what kind of wax do I use. He had sanded through the clear coat but not to the metal. Does Zaino actually penetrate through the clearcoat?

    Told him to wash it with Dawn and it should be ok. He thought I was nuts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    No--- Zaino is miraculous, but it doesn't go through clear coat---at least I HOPE not...

    the paint under the clear coat is actually relatively dull when applied at the factory---the clear coat is what gives paint its real shine.

    You might have noticed that you don't get paint color on the rag when you buff a newish car?

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I thought the body shops blend the paint and the clear so as to only shoot it once and not having to sand twice. That's after the primer of course..

    I think he ran into problems when "blending" the paint perhaps not sanding enough to remove the zaino off the clear coat.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    There are ups and downs to doing it both ways. Of course to replace the box side you have to take the entire bed off the truck drill out all of the factory spot welds and try to reweld all of the box back together. The repair if done right will look more factory correct if they just pull and lightly fill the dent. After doing body work for a while it sounds like if you want the best factory look when you are done, have them pull and fill the dent. And as far as drilling, most places now use a stud welder to weld what look like little nails onto the metal and pull out the dent a little at a time with a slide hammer. I will state it is ENTIRELY up to you as to how you want the repair to be done. Pulling the dent will be faster cheaper and with a good tech and painter look great. Replacing the panel can in some instances lead to the gaps for the tailgate and things not lining up quite right. My personal opinion is when ever possible leave the factory pieces in place.
  • anon3anon3 Posts: 147
    There are few absolutes in life and few rules that always apply, but one that I follow is: "never, ever, ever take your car through a wash that has brushes or anything that makes contact with the paint." That is if you care at all about the appearance of your vehicle.

    Those "soft cloths" and brushes collect abrasives (dirt, sand, etc) in their fibers that will without fail leave fine scratches and swirls in the top layer of paint or clear coat. It's like washing your car with a Brillo pad or steel wool. As Tallman1 mentioned, walk through a parking lot when the sun is low in the sky and the light is reflecting at an angel. You'll see the swirls and scratches, especially on dark paint. That is almost always from car washes (or in some cases, the owner has used an abrasive cleaner wax or applicator pad).

    Just yesterday, I saw a nearly new black Porshe Panamera Turbo that had so many swirl marks that it looked like someone had washed it with a brick. That should be a crime.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    I hand wash my cars frequently and never wax them. Even waxing is an abrasive process. I suppose if you are going to show your car or some such, or sell it, waxing might be a good idea but I can't say my cars don't look good just the way they are. I've very careful how I wash the car, though, and never let anyone "help" me.

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  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Another trick I've learned is to use two buckets when washing a car. One with the soap/shampoo and one to rinse the mitt/cloth/sponge. It is amazing how dirty the rinse water can get even when the car is relatively clean.

    If you use one bucket, all that grit goes back on the paint.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    I use the hose to pre-soak the car and float off dirt before I even touch it with a wash mitt.

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  • I got some scratches on my car. One of them is quite deep, I can see the black color (my car is blue). Is it primer layer or metal layer? Others are just light scratches. It is still blue, only lighter than the original color, you can feel the toughness in that area (wax?)

    I did some research and here is the list of what I'm going to get for the touchup
    1. microfiber cloth (to clean the surface first)
    2. sandpaper with different grit
    3. primer
    4 basecoat with the correct color (spray can)
    5. clearcoat.
    6. mask tape
    7. Rubbing compound

    My questions are:
    1. do primer and clearcoat have color? If so should I get the same color as the basecoat?
    2. For the deep scratch, should I apply primer first then basecoat and clearcoat at last?
    3. For the lighter ones, I don't need the primer, right?
    4. what does rubbing compound do? Do I apply it after the clearcoat. Does it fix minor scratches without any paint?
    5. What grit sandpaper to use for deep scratch and light scratches ?
    6. Do I need any wax or polish for the final touch?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    edited November 2010
    Just curious what kind of car and what do you expect to achieve?
    0. use claybar to clean the paint
    1. primer can be different colors though most of the time it''s grey. Clearcoat is exactly that. clear.
    2. start with 600 grit sand light then prime, paint, clearcoat.
    3.lighter scratches I would recommend 3M rubbign compound used with a random orbital buffer.
    4. depends on which brand of rubbing compound that you use, you could strip the paint to bare metal.
    5. deep scratch start with 600. light scratch use 3M rubbing compound with random orbital buffer.
    6. wax and polish would be good to protect the time and effort you are about to spend.

    Are you sure you want to try this?
  • It is a blue 2010 Subaru Forester. Got some scratches lately. See pictures below. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to fix them respectively
    The first and second pics shows a long scratch. Not very deep, probably only clearcoat is damaged. Can feel the toughness of wax by touching
    image
    image
    This one is kind of deep, can see the metal.
    image

    Also there is a long thin key scratch.
    image

    Thanks
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 6,678
    Just bought a 17 year old car which has had a really cheap re-paint. On a sunny day you can see all sorts of sanding marks under the paint. Looks like the car went through a briar patch and has faint scratches all over.

    My question is if there is any cheap way of making the cheap paint job less noticeable. I know that short of a proper re-paint there is no way to make it perfect.

    This is a $1200 car and not worth a lot of expense. Am I on a fool's errand or do the pros have some magic?

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Save your time and money. Other than polishing it out, there's not much you can do to a cheap paint job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    Er.....the problem with cheap paint jobs is that they use CHEAP PAINT. So it just doesn't respond to most techniques.

    You could try "color sanding" if you want to read up on it, but it's a fair amount of work.

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  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Dont waste your time or money on trying to fix the paint. Once someone screws it up with a cheap paint job its pretty well over. Best thing you can do is to keep it clean and hope it lasts as long as the car runs.
  • httobyhttoby Posts: 1
    Mazda CX7
    2007
    rear door has been hit.
    I want to save a little money by getting the dent out.
    How do I remove the inside the door panel?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,255
    You might consider having one of those mobile dent repair guys come take a look. It really depends on the dent you have. If the metal has been stretched out in any way, you won't be able to push it back out from the inside.

    so I'd suggest that before you take the panel off and maybe even make it look worse (unless you are prepared to do bodywork and paint the door), have a "dent pro" look at it, and for a lot less than a bodyshop, he might be able to make it look a lot better.

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