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What's my classic worth?

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Comments

  • texasestexases Posts: 5,511
    Tell me about it - I grew up with an all - manual '63 Dodge Polara with the 383:
    image
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,849
    I'm sure power steering would be a necessity, but nonpower brakes might not be *that* bad. I had a 1967 Newport a few years back with nonpower brakes. I didn't think it was that big of a deal to stop...until the brakes failed, that is! :surprise:

    Even more telling, the previous owner was a little old lady who had owned it since 1971. So if SHE could stop it with those brakes, anybody could! I think the main thing that made power brakes mandatory was when they started switching to disc brakes. It takes a lot more pedal force to stop a disc brake car than a drum brake car.

    Still, I'd rather have power brakes than not have them, but I dunno if it would be a deal breaker for me.
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,511
    Here's where the 'hi-po' aspect of the SS comes into play - if you use that hp, better brakes can be quite helpful!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    When you're driving a really large 60s car with manual transmission, brakes and steering slowly around town, you are really WORKING in that cockpit.

    Nothing nicer than twirling that power steering with your little finger and putting it in "D" for drive when you have a huge car on your hands.

    MODERATOR

  • parmparm Posts: 723
    I contacted the seller and relayed to him how I'd seen his car in Auburn. And, while I told him I thought he had a very nice car, I also said I thought it was priced more along the lines of a fully-documented 409 '63 SS and that I, as a buyer, would want some documentation such as a window sticker or build sheet. He wrote back with the following:

    Let me tell you the story on what happened with my car at the Kruse auction. It sold for $55K. I knew the man personally. He went to his dr. and the bank on Tuesday morning. He brought the money to me. He also told me his dr. had given him 6 mos. to live that morning. He said he had made a deal and would honor it. His family would have to liquidate the car when he was gone. I gave his money back. He is gravely ill as we speak. I am a buyer for a collector auto company. I have seen these cars bring $60K and above. I think I am reasonably priced at $53900.00. Even if it does not sell on Ebay, it will sell.

    I wrote him back to say that was quite a story and wished him luck. Whad-da-ya think? Should I have instead said, "That would be quite a story . . . . if it were true". ??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Who knows?

    But at any rate, one sale of one car does not make a market or set fair market value.

    Compare these prices:

    http://cars-on-line.com/29852.html

    http://cars-on-line.com/33343.html

    http://www.findcars.com/a.php3?q=216204

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 1964 Plymouth Valiant that I plan to sell soon. Can anyone give me an estimate of it's value so I don't get taken advantage of? It has a slant 6 engine, push-button automatic transmission, 2 doors, 160,000 miles or so. The brakes don't work, engine worked last time it was driven, but needs new battery, oil, etc. (probably hoses/belts). The front seat is torn up quite a bit, there is some rust on the outside, and there is an after market tape deck/speakers installed that doesn't work. It wouldn't take much to get it running, but to restore it would be quite a task. It's been sitting in the driveway for 3 years and needs to be cleaned more. How much do you think I could sell it for, and should I at least get the engine running before I sell it? Thanks for any suggestions.

    Photos
    http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g153/HarmonicWave/valiant_front.jpg
    http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g153/HarmonicWave/valiant_back.jpg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Probably $500 bucks would be all there is.

    Here's one that's in better shape than yours for $1200

    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/489790776.html

    MODERATOR

  • texasestexases Posts: 5,511
    If you're handy, you'll get a lot more interest for a car that starts and stops than one that doesn't, and the parts shouldn't be too much. The line 'wouldn't take much to get it running' scares off lots of folks. I wouldn't worry about belts and hoses, just the stuff to get it in driving condition (and a quick wash wouldn't hurt).

    p.s. -- get a gas cap, too.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,849
    I'd say definitely get it cleaned up to where it looks more presentable, and see if you can get it running fairly reasonably. I think those are neat little cars, but unless it's a V-8, hardtop, or convertible, those old Valiants don't bring much, even in primo condition.

    See if you can find out what's up with the brakes, too. It could just be something as simple as a rotten brake hose. That car has three of them...1 that connects at the rear suspension and one for each front wheel. They're like $15 apiece. Of course, if it's been sitting that long, it could have bad spots in the metal lines as well, all over, just waiting to fail. Still, if you can get the brakes working, that can be the difference between a 2500 pound metal bookend and a saleable car.

    My guess is that as it sits, you'd be lucky to get $100-200 for it. But if you cleaned it up, got it running, and the brakes working, maybe $1500? Nobody would ever restore it, unless they were really sentimental for it, because you could probably get a really nice one for $4-5,000, and the nicest Valiant 2-door sedan in the world still probably wouldn't fetch $10K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Here's a V8 that needs resto, but runs and drives, for $1100

    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/490069059.html

    MODERATOR

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,849
    I kinda like that one. That thing would be a real hoot if it had the 235 hp 273-4bbl. But I'm guessing it just has the more mundane 2-bbl, which I think put out around 180-190 hp. I'd think even that would be kinda fun in something so light, though.
  • I don't want to put any more than $50 into it or so, so I'll probably just get the engine running. If I wash it and get the engine running would $500 be reasonable, or would I be getting ripped off? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    no, you'd be fine at $500.

    you can always "test" the market at put a price of $995 and see what happens. You can always come down. You'd have to get it running for that amount of $$$. (Not drivable necessarily, but running) If I were in your shoes, I'd put a really cheap price on it and kiss it goodbye when the first person with real money waves it at you. There's not a big market for this kind of car, so each buyer you meet might be the last you'll see for a while.

    MODERATOR

  • texasestexases Posts: 5,511
    Engine running, no brakes? Seems like $500 would be reasonable. Body looks pretty good. Try charging the battery, set the timing and the points, check the oil, see if it'll start. Old gas could be a problem. Without brakes, no test drive, so they're still taking a risk, will keep price down.
  • parmparm Posts: 723
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-CHEVROLET-IMPALA-SUPER-SPORT-CONVERTIBLE_W0Q- - QitemZ160184962289QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6169QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

    Your $42,500 value estimate is UNCANNY! - as evidenced by the $44,500 "Buy It Now" price of this current auction. The link above is for a nearly identical '63 SS Impala convertible except this one is an automatic. But, it has power steering and power disc brakes (added later). What'd you do Shifty? Bribe the seller to ask this price to prove your point? LOL!

    Seriously. Good call on the one in Indiana. Go to the head of the class. ;) ;) ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    nice find! How do I do it? Well, this is what I do for a living!

    Actually on a 327 Impala SS, I'd prefer the automatic.

    MODERATOR

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,603
    In my not so humble opinion...

    The first (black) '63 just screams MICKEY MOUSE!

    It looks like a hobbled up reconstructed pieced together wreck.

    The guy is looking for a sucker.

    The second one is much better.

    It's hard to tell what color that is but it doesn't look like any color Chevy offered that year. I could be wrong though.

    Having owned both, I would much rather have a 300 HP 327 than a 409 although the 409 is the one that brings the big money.

    The lack of power brakes (to me) isn't a big deal but the manual steering would be a major turn off.

    Why would anyone buy that car new without power steering?

    Another clue that Uncle Mickey could have paid this car a visit too.
  • I am posting in concern to our 1966 F-100 custom cab short bed ford truck. It is not running but contains the all original parts and would be a breeze to rebuild. The body its in good conditon besides one small dent in the front fender. Body has no rust exposed on the body. I really would appreciate some help trying to figure out what to sell it for.. If you could assist me I would appreciate it., cause I already tried the link you left the other gentleman who bought the one with 80,000 original miles. Rachelle :confuse: :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Well if it's not running that's kind of a big deal and will affect the price considerably. Without seeing it, I'd guess $2,000 to $3500 is about all there is here. Engine size is also important here.

    If it were running well, and had decent old paint and presentable interior and good tires, and was a 352 V8, and could drive 500 miles reliably, it might be worth $5K--$6K

    If it were restored to show condition, it might be worth $15K--$18K

    MODERATOR

This discussion has been closed.