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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    Based on parts available at www.worldimpex.com, it appears all the 4cyl's (gas/diesel) have the same compressor. V6 is different. I'd recommend buying from them as they will know what to send you more than anyone (maybe a dealer, but that's questionable at best!). Their price is probably better as well. They have four to pick from, $275-$625. They could probably tell you what the difference was more than I could!
  • Hi, I'm new here. I bought an '04 TDI beetle. We simply love it!! I drive a ton and living in TX nothing is very convenient so driving is a must. My question is where can I get an oil change other than the dealership. (not convenient and VERY expensive $80 for an oil change!!)
    Does Jiffy Lube do this, and would anyone have experiences with them?
    I'm considering getting the equipment to do this myself but am lazy during 100 degree heat.
    Thanks.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    I wouldn't trust Jiffy Lube with last nights table scraps. If you're too lazy to do the work, I would look for a reputable mechanic, even better if you can find one that specializes in foreign brands. There's nothing difficult about changing the oil on a TDI. I'd even say it's easier due to the easy access to the filter and if you use a top-sider you don't even have to crawl underneath. Wait until the sun goes down!

    Just make sure you or the mechanic uses the proper oil that is spec'd in your owners manual. The dealers aren't batting 1000 at this, so I doubt a independant would do much better until you tell them it has specific requirements.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,837
    i do use a trusted quick-oil-change place for my TDI oil changes sometimes. last time i did that was with a 2003 jetta - naturally i supplied compliant oil (Shell Rotella-T) since none of the valvoline oils met 505.00 spec.
    i have not yet used the quick-oil-change place for either of my PD TDIs but might plan to do so - only for one of the oilchanges that does not call for fuel-filter-swap too.
  • fletcherffletcherf Posts: 1
    I am a rookie vw,tdi owner. Bought it with 600 miles on it. It now has 5000. Lovin it. What oil and filter should I use. Ive heard to use mobile one syn. any help out there? also, didnt know I was suppose to be "breakin it in," what hould i do? thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    most Mobil1 oils are NOT suitable for TDI.

    First of all, you need to know which TDI engine you have... then we can talk about what oil you should be using.
  • bfredbfred Posts: 4
    has anyone had experience with the dealer "rustproofing" that involves an electrode monitor? Of course, we always think these dealer gimmicks you hear when you buy the car are just that--any ideas--sounds like it might work--living in Nova Scotia we gets lots of salt in the winter, etc., so anything might help. thanks
  • bfredbfred Posts: 4
    thanks to both of you--i will give those a try. bfred
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,837
    rustproofing is a total scam. avoid it without exception.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    There is no need to "rustproof" a Volkswagen. All VWs come from the factory with a galvanoic dipped coating that makes it nearly rustproof. You wont find that on any other vehicle in this price range.

    That is why VW offers the 12-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee.
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    I brought my '05 Passat TDI to the local dealer for a 20K service. I specifically asked that they note on the invoice that the oil change was 505.01 compliant. For oil, they used "Volkswagon oil - VAG-052-167-A2". Who makes this stuff for VW??

    They also added an oil additive (BG 110 - BG MOA® see description below) and Fuel additive (BG 208 - BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ see description below). I refused to pay for these items ($30.90) as i think they are a waste of money and also fear they may void the warranty. Any thoughts?

    BG MOA® prevents oxidation and thickening of engine oil under even the most severe stop-and-go, high temperature driving conditions. It fortifies all qualities of engine oil to provide superior long-lasting engine protection and helps maintain optimum engine performance. BG MOA® keeps piston ring belts, hydraulic lifters and other engine components clean to help extend engine life and reduce costs of operation. It is compatible with both synthetic and petroleum-base oils. The Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Test (TFOUT), ASTM Test Method D4742, proves BG MOA’s remarkable resistance to oxidation by more than 200% longer than six major brands of SL quality oil. At the conclusion of the API Sequence IIIF Engine Test‚ a major brand, high-quality reference oil barely passed the 80-hour test with a viscosity increase of 255 percent. At 80 hours, another brand of oil fortified with BG MOA® had a viscosity increase of only 57 percent. At the conclusion of the triple-length, 240-hour test, it was still well within the viscosity limits with an increase of only 198 percent.

    BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ safely, rapidly and thoroughly removes engine deposits in combustion chambers, intake manifolds, ports and on valves. It restores flow in fuel injectors and cleans the entire fuel system. BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions. It actually restores that “like new” driveability to an engine’s performance and keeps it running better, longer and more efficiently. Add one can or bottle to fuel tank at fill up. NOTE: After clean-up with BG 44K® Power Enhancer,™ regular use of BG Supercharge®II‚ Part No. 202‚ in gasoline engines or BG Diesel Fuel Conditioner with DPL‚ Part No. 2276‚ in diesel engines will prevent deposits from forming in the fuel system and upper engine for maximum driveability and fuel economy. Part No. 208 11 oz. can
  • airedadairedad Posts: 5
    Yesterday I took delivery on a new 2006 Jetta TDI (and it took a while to find what I wanted ... but that's another story). While I have previously owned a diesel, that was a looooooong time ago and things are somewhat different. I did my homework and have read everything I could find, but still have a couple of questions.

    Fuel additives - I realize that an additive such as the Amisoil cetane boost is needed with fill-ups, I haven't had much luck finding them in the Atlanta area (OK, I tried 3 places and decided to write the list). Is there any general consensus on which one is best and possibly the easiest way to find it?

    My other question is about oil changes. Although what I have read specified oil changes every 10K miles, the dealer is recommending that the oil be changed every 5K miles. While this is not a problem for now (to "make" the deal when the wrong color car came in, I got 'free' oil changes every 5K miles through 50K miles), I am wondering whether this is dealer overkill or a good practice.

    Great car to drive - a lot more fun than the 2 Honda's I was looking at, BTW.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Unless your dealer can show you where these additives are required via a TSB or other VW publication, then you have every right to refuse payment.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    Changing the oil more frenquently than what VW recommends is a waste of your $$ and a waste of the envrionment. Dont forget that the FIRST OCI (Oil Change Interval) is NOT 10,000 miles.

    It has been shown (by folks that have their oil tested regularly) that more wear actually occours immedeatly after an oil-change. It has also been shown that the oil could be run for 15,000 miles with no additional wear to the engine.

    This means that the recomended 10,000 mile OCI should not be done more frenquently. It only puts more $$ into the pockets of the folks doing the oil change.

    As for FUEL additives, for a diesel engine, there is no doubt that they are benifetial. The added lubricant for the expensive fuel pump is reason-enough alone. The additional MPG and quieter running are also worthwhile.

    I carry fuel additive in my trunk (double sealed within a plastic container) I also carry a supply of 8oz paper cups so I can measure out 6oz for the fueltank and toss the stinky cup in the trash.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    I've been using the Stanadyne Performance Formula year around for the past year. Using one formula year around seems easier than using the white bottle or grey bottle additives sold at Walmart. Plus, I get friendly service at the Stanadyne distributor and do not have to enter Walmart once or twice a year.

    Here is a link for more information. There is also a dealer locator link on the page if you are interested.

    http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_dfa.asp
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    (Sorry if this is a repost)

    for those of us that are "Acronymicly" :P challenged like me, ULSD stands for Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel.

    I found this link about ULSD.

    Basically, ULSD is diesel fuel that only has about 5% sulfer which is down from the 97% that we have. My only concern with my new interest in diesel is older cars (and newer ones alike) that are used to running on the current diesel. I'm wondering if the vehicle will still function the same with ULSD. Is it like going from 91octane gas to 87octane or vice versa? :confuse: :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    The "Octane" of gasoline has no comparison on "Cetane" used to measure Diesel fuel. In fact, they are closer to being opposates than synonyms. (Higher "Octane" in gasoline means LOWER flashpoint ---- Higher "Cetane" in diesel means more energy available in the fuel)

    In reference to ULSD and older Diesel engines.... the sulfer *may* have offered some lubrication qualities which were benifitial to the high-pressure fuelpump.

    The ULSD fuel also has specifications about lubrication-quality that is INTENDED to lubricate the high-pressure fuelpump.

    Also, the reduction of sulfer in the ULSD will BENIFET the older TDI engines by reducing combustion deposits.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While your points regarding Diesel fuel and Cetane are points I won't even consider challenging, I must take exception to the statement: "Higher "Octane" in gasoline means LOWER flashpoint..."

    Sorry, it means nothing of the sort. ALL gasolines have roughly the same flash point (typically between -46 and -50 degrees centigrade, varying by the manufacturer NOT fuel grade). What the Octane number does signify is any given fuels' "Anti-Knock" capabilities. Said another way, the higher the octane, the slower the burn rate.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    Your perception of Octane is only one-sided.... the way that higher octane reduces "knocking" or "pre ignition" is by LOWERING THE FLASHPOINT so that the FA mixture does not spontainiously ignite before the sparkplug fires it.

    Using too low an octane in a high-compression or turbocharged engine can pre-ignite and punch holes in pistons. This is because the FA mixture will tend top ignite too soon due to too LOW a flashpoint when it is under pressure.

    The "slower burning" is also a measure of octane....but that gets into the 2 different ways of measuring octane and how they are averaged together to give us the "pump octane" we typically see labelled on the gas pumps.

    Here is a LINK to help you understand octane.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While I haven't read your link yet (I'm very well aware of how Octane ratings are calculated and how fuels are mixed to yield different octane ratings), I will however look at it to see if it contains anything of substance after I finish this post. In the mean time, I think you need to look at the definition of "Flash Point":

    The flash point of a flammable liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can form an ignitable mixture with air (assuming an ignition source such as a spark from a spark plug). At this temperature the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed.

    Looked at another way, gasoline that is nearing its flash point is usually so cold that that’s about all it can do, “Flash”. Cause a spark plug to “Spark” in close proximity with gasoline that is near its flash point and you will get a brief “flash” and then the flame will simply extinguish itself.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong, however, I believe the term you are searching for is the "Autoignition Temperature" (the temperature at which a properly mixed and compressed air and fuel charge will self ignite) which is defined as the following:

    The autoignition temperature, or the ignition temperature of a substance is the lowest temperature at which a chemical will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere, without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will detonate decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases (to a point after which the flame front will not be able to propagate itself). This term is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture under some form of pressure (i.e. compression or turbine boost).

    FWIW, the "Flash Point" of all grades of automotive gasoline is generally considered to be about -46 degrees Celsius while the "Autoignition Temperature" is generally considered to be nearly 300 degrees Celsius higher, somewhere around 246 degrees Celsius.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
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