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Volkswagen TDI Models



  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Posts: 24 one of the earlier posts, you mentioned an "oil evacuator" that goes down the dipstick opening...sounds like a GREAT idea to me. First, where do you get one of those? And how is it powered (e.g., how does it "suck" the oil out...electric, hand-crank???). Also, are you worried that it doesn't get all the sludge or all the oil out? Just curious there....I really like the idea, but am a little concerned all the "oogie" wouldn't be sucked out...

    Care to comment for me? thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705

    First the bad news, if you have EVER stripped down an engine that has been routinely serviced through the conventional gravity fed oil drain plug, that actually had sludge in it, 2 things become VERY clear:

    1. not ALL oil is drained 2. that if the gravity drain were truly able to remove sludge why is it there!!?

    With the TDI model's requirement for synthetic oil, synthetic has FAR greater resistance to sludge formation than conventional oil.
    (Just this one point alone would be a reason for me to go to synthetic oil) I have been using Mobil One 5W-30 for over 660k miles AND have seen both valve covers and oil pans removed. The usual comments of most of the Toyota Landcruiser mechanics is that the innards are clean as a whistle and the parts show little or NO wear. For the TDI I am using Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40. There are other EXCELLENT oils but for me it was a no brainer to use the other Mobil product. Off topic but I am also seriously considering using Delvac 1 on ALL my vehicles in that the Delvac conforms to both the latest diesel specs and SL and SJ gasser requirements. The ability to stock less products and less product is tempting.

    As you probably are aware, MB and more germane, VW OEM actually specifies a model # evacuation tool for oil changes!!

    The evacuation tool actually is not only faster (took me all of 10 mins to do the oil change and app 5 min were spent marveling at how fast the oil change went.) and less messy but one does not have to JACK the car up to change the oil. Also the TDI seems to have app 7-10 screws bolts that have to be undone to access the oil drain plug. Combined with the fact that the oil filter canister is to the right of the dip stick (must remove the top engine cover) makes topside access almost a no brainer.

    While I don't want to get too technical, Toyota and Corvette for example, specific a minimum 15 min DRAIN time! VW seems to be silent on this issue, but given the design and oil viscosity I would guess it is about the same.

    There are many units on the market but two stand out, 1. Pella 6000 (?) 2. Mity Vac

    I chose the Mity Vac hand pump (activation) 45 dollars or so.(1.7G capacity) There are models that are electric and air driven also (naturally more money) and have more volume capacity...

    You might do a search for one or both models and it will give you dealers that carry these products. I got mine from The Tool Warehouse in NJ.

    If I can answer other questions that come up, just fire away.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Posts: 327
    I have used this for my past three oil changes, and it works great. lay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=o- n&TEST=Y&productId=465467&categoryId=0

    It is a manual pump, you pressurize it by pumping the arm about 40-50 times, stick the tube into the oil pan, and release the pressure. Pumping it is very similar to using a super-soaker water gun.
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Posts: 24
    Ruking, thanks for the response. I've got about 500 miles to go...I found both the Pela and Mity-Vac online...either one is about $40 or so, so I'll order one up. I'm still looking for the Mobil oil, but I can still go with the Amsoil is need be. Finally, I seem to remember (from the maintenance schedule), draining the water from the fuel filter while doing oil that as simple a procedure as doing the oil?

    Thanks once again,
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    I would feel comfortable with either the Amsoil or the Delvac 1.

    Draining the water from the filter is really very easy! It is the encumberances that are a bit a PITA. There is a plastic twist drain plug on the bottom. All that needs being done is to untwist it and drain 3-5 oz of fuel, then re tighten. In my case there was NO H20 in the fuel. The technical data says to reprime with diesel fuel, but I didn't and it started just fine.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Posts: 327
    You don't actually have to drain the fuel completely, in fact, I do not believe you are supposed to. You should only drain any water that is there, and stop when you get fuel (probably immediately unless you use bad diesel). Since oil sits on top of water, all of the water will come out first.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    The manual says to drain 100 cm3 of FUEL. :)

    The conversion if I did my math correctly = .02641720 gal x 128 oz per gal = 3.3814016 oz.

    If you are installing a NEW filter it says to fill with diesel fuel.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Posts: 327
    Well, IMHO the manual is just trying to give you a guideline in case you cant tell the difference between water and fuel, probably based on a worst case scenario of awful diesel. If they just tell you to use your own judgement, that could cause problems, so they make up a standard. I honestly think that most people dont even need to do this, since most fuel has no water in it, but its definitely a good idea to be sure.

    Either way, you can't hurt anything by letting out too much, its just easier to let out a little (you dont have to worry about where to dump it). I guess what I am saying is that I am making a pointless argument. ;-)
  • I did my 40K service, where a good mechanic checked the timing belt, changed out filters, and checked the computer. The heart murmer did not go away, and the car smoked noticeably when going up hill and accelerating. I was a bit worried. But my only consolation was that this did not bother my mileage which was about 50mpg. I filled up with new diesel and PS cetane booster, and the heart murmer went away, and it stopped smoking noticeably. Runs back to its original wonderful self. So, it was not the timing belt or water in the filter. Had to be the tank of fuel. I cannot wait till the diesel fuel is further refined for better quality and that biodiesel is added for better cetane quality.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    The only thing you can really do is try to find a quality diesel supplier. If I run BP Supreme (and just because the pump says supreme doesn't mean it is, you have to verify it) I get zero smoke unless I'm accelerating hard (i'm chipped so that's expected). Start-ups are smoke free and the engine idles/runs quieter and smoother.

    I have the local distributor deliver BP Supreme to my farm which is really handy because the closest station with Supreme isn't in the most convenient location. I have had circumstances where I've had to fill-up at truck-stops and such, and I can tell the difference immediately. BP Supreme is a low-sulphur (30ppm I think) and high cetane fuel. I don't run any additives when I'm using BP Supreme, although it does get treated with anti-gel in the winter. MPG stays the same regardless of what fuel I run, I just like to run the supreme for environmental and engine smoothness reasons.

    My diesel pickups and tractors get the same supreme fuel. Costs me about $.08/gallon more than plain old truck-stop crud. FWIW, my Dodge Cummins doesn't seem to care whether I run plain diesel or Supreme. Pulls the same, runs the same, etc. I've never gotten smoke out of this new Cummins (2003 HO) even with a 16,000# load and wide-open throttle.
  • I thank you for the advice. I wish I could put a 500 gal. tank at my house. I do not own the land or the house. I am a pastor, and the house has been donated to the church. So, I have no choice but try to find a good premium diesel dealer. I will look. Maybe I can get a few diesel containers and fill them up and keep them at my house instead. Not sure. Maybe I can get a smaller tank-possibly 250 gallons. I will look at options.

    All I know is that these cars run best the higher the cetane level in the fuel. And I would pay the difference.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    Well Pastor/Spiritualquest, while you didn't mention your residing state, I have a 49/50 chance in guessing you are using a 40 CZ cetane #2 diesel fuel.

    The 2003 VW Jetta TDI technical data specifies the TDI or AHL engine at 49 CZ cetane.

    First of all, diesel #2 fuel is legally mandated to be delivered at the pump with a min of 40 CZ cetane rating in 49/50 states. Given fungibility issues, it would almost be RARE to find a distributor that somehow delivered better than that.

    CA diesel #2 diesel is legally mandated to be delivered at the pump with a min of 45 CZ cetane.

    So for better or worse in 49/50 states 40 CZ cetane is probably as good as it gets. In fact, to boost the cetane can be done easily with the cetane boosting product of your choice. (P/S can do a 3 and 6 point boost (cost: 3 cents per gal and 6 cents per gal respectively) depending on self administered dilution). So by using cetane booster you are already doing the correct "corrective" action. So if you see a supplier vendor that offers 43 and or 46 CZ at the price of 3/6 cents or less, they are doing it cheaper than DIY, and it would make economic sense. If not, DIY, which I got from your post, you are already doing.

    The official VW OEM position is: there is no requirement to run fuel additives.
  • I was looking for some advice with regard to what a fair (ballpark) price is for a 2000 Jetta, TDI, 45,000 miles, GL version (manual windows, no sunroof, basic stereo/cassette, cloth interior, 5spd manual). Dealer is asking $16K. I was also concerned about the timing belt issue; i.e. does the 2000 model have the 50K mile belt? What do the 2003 models sell for?
  • Yes, I am from Iowa, and I think your are right about the rating for the fuel. I will take your advice. I wonder. What is the cetane rating for biodiesel? Would a good biodiesel blend be a good alternative during the summer A little too rich for my blood, but I would consider the cost. Nice to know someone knows something about this fuel. I wish they were more regulated and posted.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    We have a few truck stops that offer biodiesel but when #2 was 1.79 and biodiesel was like 2.67?-2.99, I didn't even have to lie down till the thought went away!?

    Current corner store #2 diesel is 1.64. On interstates or major truck highways it is app 1.39. Again CA #2 diesel @ 45 CZ cetane.

    About 2 mo ago on the eastern seaboard (RI) #2 diesel corner store was 1.99.
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Posts: 24
    Ruking, here in Michigan, I'm currently paying about $1.30-1.40 for regular diesel. The prices have a tendency to go down here in the summer, as I believe the blends change (no low-temperature stuff), while the gas prices go up. It is kind of ironic...right now there's a 30 cent difference between diesel and gas. In winter, basically the opposite happens; gas prices tend to go down, while diesel goes up. But there's still a .15 difference (diesel being cheaper). There are a couple places in the area (e.g., within 60 miles or so), that sell bio- fuels...just none real close.

    Bellaisola, I looked high and low for a used TDI when I bought mine; and really came up with only two or three. I believe one was a 2001, auto, with 70K miles they were asking 10K for...the other was a 2000, 5-speed, 98000 miles for I think 8K (it has been a while). The price you have seems kind of high...All together (with tax, title, prep, etc.), I paid about 19K out the door for my new (2003) 5-speed...and it has more "stuff" than the older models.

    By the way, Ruking....thanks for all the help and is greatly appreciated.

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    That seems like a fairly high price based on what I've seen around. (for sale forums, ebay, etc). I've been paying attention because I may be selling/trading mine in the near future to get a Passat TDI when they become available. I have a '00 GLS with 68k miles, cloth, power everything, alloys, cd changer, and a few power enhancements. Based on what I've seen I would likely get $11,000 for mine. A base model with only 23k less miles for $5,000 more seems a bit out of hand. I've watched a couple low mileage '02 GLS models sell for $18,000. Keep shopping. I can give you a couple excellent sources for finding nice used TDI's if you'd like to email me.

    AS for the timing belt, if it's an automatic, the '00 would have a 40k mile timing belt. If it's not been changed, that can be expensive (and down right fraud by some dealers). A five-speed is good for 80k miles.
  • midnightcowboymidnightcowboy Posts: 1,978
    ould someone tell me what thier manual actually says.

    The VW service Manager said sysnthetic oil every 5,000 miles and a timing belt change every 40000 miles.

    However, I have heard from others first oil change at 5,000 then every 10,000 miles and timing belt at 100,000

    What does the manual say ?
  • chmeeeechmeeee Posts: 327
    For the 2k3, every 80,000 for the t-belt, and oil changes at 5k, 10k, 20k, 30k.... etc. The dealer just wants your money real bad. ;-)
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    The manual states 80K for timing belt change on 2002 TDI and it was revised for 2003 to 100K miles. This applies to both manual and auto transmissions.
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