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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There are airbags in the sides of the seats and using seatcovers could be VERY dangerous. (Imagine your shoulder being violently shoved away from the seat.)
  • Glad you're enjoying your TDI. But it gets better. Mileage should climb slightly for first 10,000 miles. Power too.
    My TDI has 170,000 kms on it.
    My wife drove it to San Francisco and back (with 3 others plus luggage for a 1-week road trip) for < US$85 in fuel ... over 2000 miles.
    And I met a guy in town who bought a new Jetta TDI to replace his last Jetta diesel ... it has over 450,000 kms on it.
    Another friend restored her old Golf diesel (1979) and took 1st prize in a Seattle car show. She rebuilt the engine in the process since it was out of the car, although it didn't need it .... the car only had 313,000 kms on it.
    I haven't done the EGR mod, but would like to. Its getting mostly city usage now and that's what causes problems.
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    Need help on this one. Manual says to change brake fluid every two years but doesn't tell how fluid is needed for the change. Anyone done it DIY? How much did you need and does brand make any difference?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The amount of fluid you need to bleed the old fluid out will vary based on the procedure you choose to use. (Vacuum, pressure or pedal-pumping.)

    It is ALWAYS better to purchase more than you think you will need, then return any unopened containers after you have completed the task.

    As for "brand", just like all the other fluids, it does not matter as long as it meets specifications.

    SUGGESTION: If you have never bled a hydrolic brake system before, I suggest that you do not attempt it on your own. Each of the wheels must be removed and the hydrolic lines purged to that "corner" of the vehicle. The ABS and ESP systems must be considerd too.

    I hope you were not just expecting to suck the fluid out of the master-cylinder resivour and refill it. That would be a bad move.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    Yes, the technical manual says .2 liter (6.76 oz) per position. There are 5 positions: clutch and 4 brakes for 1 liter (1 liter= 33.8 oz.) The best is to get 2 liters/quarts (DOT 4 is specified) and take back the unopened one for refund. Going out for brake fluid if you run out of the 1 liter is not a good idea timing wise:)

    The fact of the matter is you can actually do the whole bleed sequence in 15-20 oz max.

    You can do it the old fashion two person method, Sears among others sell brake fluid bleeding kits. I use a "Motive" brake bleeder with the Euro and import adapters.
  • caseyr1caseyr1 Posts: 11
    Where can I go online to get step by step instruction for changing the oil filter on my 2001 TDI. I am sure it isn't that hard but I would like to see it first before I do it myself.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • caseyr1caseyr1 Posts: 11
    Thank you for your help. Where can I get the pela 6000 extractor and do you think it is better that using the drain plug?

    Thank You again
  • caseyr1caseyr1 Posts: 11
    I just got a really good deal on a 2001 jetta TDI. I would have liked the GLS but I couldn't pass up the great deal. The only thing I wish it had that it doesn't is an armrest. So if anyone knows where or how I could get an authentic VW armrest, I would appreciate some help. I don't even know If I can put one in but I am sure it is possible.

    Thank you for any assistance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (caseyr1) There a several schools of thought on "Extractor -or- drain-plug". The TDI has a belly-pan which is held on by about 15 screws. This complicates the "drain-plug" process a good deal. Also, since the oil-filter drops in from the top, there is a good argument to suck the oil from the top too.

    The only strong argument I have heard about the "drain-plug" process is that it gives you the oppertunity to inspect the bottom-side of the engine, xmission and other drivetrain components.

    Not only is there the "Pela 6000" there are seveal other vacuum oil-extractors such as the "topsider"

    Here are some links to oil-extractors;
    http://www.pelaproducts.com/
    http://www.globalrider.com/
    http://www.jerrybleach.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/Store/p-pl6000.ht- ml?L+scstore+clqq0692ff7f8e7f+1078792901
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (caseyr1)
    There are several places that have the armrests as spare parts. (They are not cheep) You may wish to consider a salvage-yard. Oftentimes, if you are willing to go out in the yard and remove the part yourself, you can get a reasonable price.

    When my daughters 1st VW had the door-handle broken off, she and I went to a local scrapyard and for $7 got a replacement.

    CHeck out these links for armrest parts;
    http://www.car-part.com/
    http://www.husco.com/cgi-bin/ePages4.filereader?4004d47a003261970- 000c0a80142059c+EN/products/125682&2D1012604
    http://www.impex.com
  • tagetage Posts: 2
    In the interest of having my seats last as long the car does, I'd like to put some front seatcovers on my new 04 Jetta. The Wet Okole site says that their seat covers are designed to allow the air bags to function properly.

    Has anyone used them? Do they breath or do they feel hot/wet like vinyl covers? Do they last?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    I have to tell you that I do not have the Wet Okoles on the VW Jetta product. I have had them 4 years and 62,000 miles on a 2001 Z06 Corvette. They are a bit oxymoronic in that they are water proof but in the touring hours I have had with them (up to 12 hour driving day) they have not made me sweat any more than leather and or cloth. . Obviously when you do sweat you can take them off and quite literally hose them off. (hand wash and air dry is the best) Other than a bit of fading over time they look and feel brand new.
  • philip2philip2 Posts: 2
    Getting ready to buy a new TDI automatic Jetta and I do a lot of highway driving in Houston. I was wanting to know if anyone had the break down of miles per gallon at the following speeds - 50mph, 60 mph, 70 mph and up to 80mph?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    Actually I just had a discussion with a slew of TDI types this weekend! :) As a departure point, expect 6 mpg less with the auto. If your TDI is the new PD you will get more hp/torque and a tad less mpg. So again as a departure for the manual version between 57-47.
  • philip2philip2 Posts: 2
    So is the mpg a constant from 50 to 80 mph with the tdi or does it go down in mpg the higher speed you go like in a gasoline automobile? This will be my first auto that is a diesel.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I had some seat time (three weeks, three tanks) in a auto TDI plus know the owner well. He did one trip at 55mph (from TX to LA and back following relatives in an RV) and he was getting about 47mpg. The first two weeks I drove the car approx. 180 miles per day. About 60 miles was highway (70-80mph), the rest was hilly/twisty two-lane roads where I did my best to run 60-65mph and had to do some full-throttle accelerating to pass slow-pokes. Realistically I probably averaged 50mph with all the turns and such. I averaged about 38mpg on those trips. The other week I drove the car almost excusively highway at around 75mph and got about 42mpg.

    That's the best I can give you. It's pretty hard to know exactly what the mpg would be at those speeds. Even my test was not scientific because you need to average several tanks of similar driving. A good head-wind/tail-wind will mess up your averaging even. Considering the TDI is geared the same in overdrive/5th gear regardless of transmission, as long as you had a base line difference between the trannys you could estimate better. Says there's 5mpg difference between the two. If I had to put a mileage on the 5-speed at those speeds it would be this:

    50mph- 52mpg
    60mph- 50mpg
    70mph- 48mpg
    80mph- 46mpg

    So assuming a 5mpg difference, you'd be 47mpg, 45mpg, 43mpg, 41mpg respectiveley for the auto. That would be 100% highway driving with no stopping. This is completely unscientific and nothing more than an educated stab at the dark!
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    Since I have driven in Houston pretty extensively, I know somewhat the lay of the land. But I have not driven the TDI there. All toll I have been there for 3 full months The figures run like the gasoline. So slower you would tend to get better and faster mileage would tend to go down. Also another data point is in full highway commute traffic the wife tends to get between 47-51. She estimates her average speed is about 65 mph.
  • lifeloverlifelover Posts: 12
    I got 49 mpg going around 80-85 mph on flat straight highway, and I also was using the cetane booster. I have an '03 TDI manual transmission with 46k on it. (past owner was a travelng salesmen. Maybe I had a tailwind behind me, but I was definitely impressed. This car cruises real nice at high speeds.
  • fungus440fungus440 Posts: 21
    Which brand of diesel does your wife or you usually by in Houston? Since we don't have BP like we do Shell, I was curious.

    I don't own one, but I've been awfully appreciative of the learning curve that I've been on over the past 56 pages. My car (95 dodge spirit with 188k) just isn't ready to give up the ghost.

    What is the expected price increase for the lower emitting diesels in 2006 or so?

    Thanks for your time.
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    Is it possible just to clean out the EGR? If yes, what's the procedure?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    Actually I buy on price. Outside of Arco's 2006 standard and bio diesel, the 49 states are as you know commoditized at 40 cetane and CA at 45 cetane.

    This is just a SWAG but I think it might be 10-15 cents higher. :(
  • vincentwangvincentwang Posts: 42
    I'm currently looking the TDI Wagon, comparing the 5M and 5A. Which should I get? Can I use the Tipchornic as a Manual shift? i test drove both, feel 5M is quciker response, and using Tiptronic is little bit better than Auto. Vancouver is not that suitable for 5M, so, if I go for 5A, will the vehicle last shorter?

    Also, I'm comparing with the MAXX. Any clue? i really not sure about the OHV engin.

    Appreciate.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (vwinva) What do you mean "clean out the EGR"

    EGR means "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" It is a emmissions FUNCTION... not a physical "thing" on an engine.

    There are parts that make up the "EGR" system such as the EGR valve or the EGR cooler. I have never heard of either needing to be cleaned. Especially if one runs the MANDITORY synthetic oil that the TDI engine requires. (specifically to reduce carbon in a cooled EGR system.)

    Perhaps you are thinking of the Intake Manifold or the Intercooler that may tend to get plugged up if the engine is not driven hard enough to keep the gunk from setteling in them.

    ..or perhaps you are thinking of the "snow screen" which should be cleaned off at every-other oil change (20K,40K,60K miles) The snow screen often gets plugged with leaves and insect carcuses which slows down the airflow into the engine, this can lead to other problems.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    "I'm currently looking the TDI Wagon, comparing the 5M and 5A. Which should I get? Can I use the Tipchornic as a Manual shift? i test drove both, feel 5M is quciker response, and using Tiptronic is little bit better than Auto. Vancouver is not that suitable for 5M, so, if I go for 5A, will the vehicle last shorter?

    Also, I'm comparing with the MAXX. Any clue? i really not sure about the OHV engin.

    Appreciate. "

    On the face of it, one might say it is 1. preference and if you are willing to pay 2. premium and live with 3. app 6 mpg difference. 4. there are other issues but I am sure you are aware of them 5. If you plan to do any one or number of power upgrades a. injectors b. chip c etc and do not want to upgrade the clutch for example, the auto is the way to go. I have seen automatics with 300 # ft of torque with no tranny upgrade. That would not be smart with a manual clutch! :( The other thing is the clutch (depending on driver of course and conditions obviously) can go between 100-500k. and will cost upwards of 600 US if you bring it to a shop. Automatics while it can breakdown (but will probably be more costly than a clutch job) will probably outlast the clutch.

    I have driven extensively in Vancover (B.C. eh?) :) with both 6 speed manual and automatics. I would say that although it can be a pain during traffic, a manual is do able.
  • vincentwangvincentwang Posts: 42
    Thanks Ruking1,
    Yes, I do live in BC. I really thinking of a 5M, but if the Tiptronic is close to 5M, then I may get a 5A. i believe change clutch is still better than changing the transmission. Also, it's much more power in this 100hp car.
  • fdannafdanna Posts: 263
    I was pricing the TDI on autos.msn.com and I saw in there that residents of the green states (CA, New England, NY) have a $150 premium tacked on.

    Does anyone know if this means you can now register these vehicles in those states? Otherwise, I'll probably have to wait until 2006 for low sulfur diesel.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    Since you are from Maine, you might want to check the MA DMV for the proper procedures. I remember there was a legislative lobby to ban sales of 2004 diesels and I think I read something to the effect that the lobby won.

    For example while in CA the selling of 2004 model year is banned, you can register a 2004 TDI as a used car with 7500 miles. :)
  • fdannafdanna Posts: 263
    MA is Massachusetts... but yes you cannot register them here because they don't meet the emissions requirements. I knew that already, I was just wondering why they show an option for CA, New England etc... on the autos.msn.com site.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I found this at dieseldeek and thought some of you would be interested.

    http://www.dieselgeek.com/intakeservice.htm

    Basically, you order a "kit" and then just swap out your clogged intake-manifold for the one in the "kit". All gaskets are included inthe "kit".

    You send your clogged intake manifold back in the included shipping container and get the "core change" back when they recieve it.

    This is a GREAT idea and the cost is reasonable especially if one considers the chemicals, scraping, mess and time it takes to clean a clogged intake manifold.
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