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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Have they checked the intake for blockage? It's a known issue that these can gunk up and restrict performance if certain preventative measures aren't taken. Secondly, they should be able to test the MAF to determine if it's operating properly. Either can cause the problem you're experiencing.

    The Turbo really should not be the problem, however they seem to be popular replacements by shops that have less than stellar diagnostic skills.

    Where are you located? I or someone here might be able to recommend a reputable shop or local that can assist. Also, if you email me I can get you a list of TDI owners and known repair facilities. I can't post it here as the link will be deleted by the mods.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Do not worry. I am in Vermont and the TDI starts BETTER than many gassers even at -40F.

    There are 2 'secrets'
    1) ALWAYS!! Use a diesel fuel additive year round. Use anti-gell in the winter and a lube-cetane booster in the summer.
    2) Install a tdi heater ( http://www.tdiheater.com ) and have it plugged into a timer anytime below 0F

    NOTE: The TDI will start just fine without the heater, but the engine is so durn efficent, you will not get any heat unless you drive at least 10 miles.

    The electric seat heaters are a MUST for cold-winter running with the TDI.
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    How much cetane booster should I add to a fully 'burped' tank of fuel? The bottle says 32 oz. to 100 gallons of fuel, but that it may also be added to 50 gallons for better performance. I calculated it out to 5.5 oz or 150 ml. I have not noticed much difference in economy or power (I run B20 biodiesel).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Many of the commercial diesel additives are based on biodiesel with some lube and other stuff mixed in. Many folks have reported that running a tank of BD once in a while will actually CLEAN the intake manifold. (which is notorious for getting plugged with grunge.)

    I measure the additive using an 8oz paper cup. I first shape the cup to create a 'spout' on it so it will pour into the tank opening easilly. I then fill it about 2/3s full with additive. This way, I can toss the smelly cup when I am done measuring. (no muss - no fuss)

    A bag of 200 8oz paper cups is inexpensive and may last the life of your TDI. I keep about 5 cups with the additive container in the trunk inside a 'tupperware-like' sealed container. This stores easilly behind the webbing on the right side of the trunk space. The rest of the cups store easilly along side the spare tire.

    As for the benifets of using a cetane booster. I notice less smoke when starting a cold engine and about 1-2 better MPG.
  • jeniponyjenipony Posts: 3
    Yeah, thanks for the suggestions. They have checked everything, MAF included which was the first thing they checked. I am still driving the Malibu. Amazing how this thing goes through unleaded regular!

    We are down to the injectors and the turbo. I am NOT amused. Guess all the $$ I saved on the diesel will go into a new turbo? Am not sure I would go for another VW. This one had a intermittent sensor problem which only happened in very dangerous situations: ie: about 20 feet into a tunnel on the PA Turnpike (no cell coverage, lots of semis trying to get into the other lane).....I did get it started again. It was still under warranty, threw no codes when they checked it out. The second time she quit, I was again on the PA turnpike, only this time on a two-lane bridge over a 200 ft. drop to a small river. Watching the semis try to avoid me was horrendous. I got out and walked to the other side of the bridge to wait for the arrow truck and the tow. That time my friends, the indies, found the sensor and replaced it. Now this.....not what I call reliable transportation.

    I love the handling, loved the power, but have to find something made better. Does it exist under $50K?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I'm still not buying that these guys know what they're doing. It really doesn't sound like a turbo to me just based on the symptoms. And if they were good at diagnosis they wouldn't be "thinking" it was the injectors because that can be diagnosed easily as well. How did they test the MAF? Did they actually physically inspect the intake?

    Have you replaced a MAF in the past? If not, the fact that you've gone 120k miles without a MAF replacement is phenomenal if not borderline miraculous. Your symptoms are almost identical to every other TDI that needs a MAF, although 60-70k miles is where most folks notice the loss of power and by 100k miles the power loss is very obvious, much like yours. It's very simple to test if they have the VAGCOM software, you simply start the car, go to engine test block 003 and rev a warm motor to about 2500-3000rpms (coincidentally where your power loss begins!!). The car should be reporting an actual of 800mg/stroke, if it's not then your MAF is bad. Takes five minutes to test. Mine went south around 70k miles and was only getting about 650mg/stroke and the power loss not extremely noticeable, but I did have a bit of a flat spot about 2500rpms. I would guess yours is probably around 500mg/stroke, maybe worse. Make sure this is being tested PROPERLY (looking at the MAF and saying it looks good doesn't do squat, nor does just hooking up a micrometer to it).

    I would put money down that if you replace your turbo, you'll still have the same problems.
  • jubileerunjubileerun Posts: 18
    Has anyone in this forum ever converted a gasoline Jetta or Passat to a TDI? I am looking for a TDI wagon, and they almost do not exist. But there are many gasoline Passat and Jetta wagons in existence. Is this engine swap an easy proposition or a herculean feat?
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Posts: 24
    Wow. I guess I'd never have thought of that; I'd bet you'd need, besides a new engine, perhaps a different tranny and tank as well. That seems like a lot of very expensive work. You'd prolly be better off actually shipping a TDI from Germany....

    Also, others were asking about centane boosters. In the winter, I put about 3 oz in per tank, and I actually use these big syringes that are made for feeding calfs or something; I get them at the local farm supply, and it's an easy, no mess way to measure and "inject" it into the tank when refilling.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I've seen it done, although it was an even bigger project (euro spec V6 TDI into a Passat AWD). You'll have more invested in the swap than buying a car for the very high price they're selling for. Expand your search to nationwide, take a flight, pickup car. It will be cheaper and you'll have warranty if something breaks. Swapping stuff and mixing VIN#'s will scare off most mechanics and reduce your resale value drastically.

    Can't be that hard to find, there was a new Passat TDI at a local dealer a few weeks back. Had a very small window to purchase, but it was all mine for five minutes if I would have wanted it.
  • lewshellewshel Posts: 37
    Go on the tdi club website. I have more creaks in humid weather from the front shocks and brake pads. I find the sounds annoying but not threatening.
  • As mentioned before I have an '03 Golf TDi. For '04 they offered a few new colors, Monsoon system standard in GLS, 100hp diesal and from what I hear a slightly modified suspention. Anyone have experience with the "old" vs. new engine and suspension?
  • liguor60liguor60 Posts: 9
    Hi all..
    I apologize in advance if anyone has addressed this, but I'm simply curious. Is anyone currently using biodiesel as their fuel source for the VW TDI series? If so, did you have to make any modifications to your vehicle? I've been hearing a lot about it lately and I'd be interested to know who's using it, and if they're using B100 biodiesel...or a lower mix.

    Thank you.
    liguor60
  • wvfgoldenwvfgolden Posts: 1
    It's your Mass Flow Sensor. My wife is on her third one. However, I still love her Jetta and am planning on a Golf soon, myself.
  • tom21769tom21769 Posts: 63
    You do not have to modify your VW TDI to use bd.
    However, VW is leery of owners using it. So they might void your warranty on parts with any problems directly attributable to biodiesel. Once there is more standardization of the bd formulas, maybe VW will lighten up.

    Among those who do use it (and I probably would if it were sold nearby), B20 seems to be a popular blend. Try tdiclub.com for more info.
  • rhsrhs Posts: 10
    Testing system. Have not seen any new messages since 7/16/04. Is this correct?
  • madijomadijo Posts: 30
    I seem to recall from something I read a long time ago that if a Manufactuer required you to use a certin product, this case a specific oil only availiable from them, or they would void your warranty, that they had to give you the product for free. Does anyone else remember this? I just paid $60 for my first oil change.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This has been discussed at length in other VW fora.

    You are thinking of the "MAGNUSON MOSS WARRANTY ACT" as seen here
    http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/magnusonmoss.htm

    HOWEVER, VW is not specifying an oil that only they supply. Instead, VW is specifying a specific CRITERIA that the oil must meet.

    In fact, VW DOES NOT MANUFACTURE OIL AT ALL. VW simply IMPORTS a CASTROL oil that meets the VW505.01 spec.

    If you do some more research on the internet, you will find there is a pretty exhaustive list of what brands of oil meet the VW 505.01 specification.

    With that said, $60USD for the 5K mile service is not unreasonable. If you look at your invoice and compare the prices of the individual VW part numbers to what you find on http://www.impexfap.com/ you can determine if you dealer is overcharging you or not.

    I have done this on several occasions and have found that my dealer is within 5% of the prices found on http://www.impexfap.com/
    Additionaly, I can bring in my own choice of oil (that meets the spec) and they are happy to use that instead of the CASTROL brand they import.
  • vinvin Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 tdi jetta with 20k. It started losing coolant last week had to add a quart. there are no visable leaks . the dealer has had the car for three days and can't find the problem has any one else had this happen?
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    Checking. Does the tensioner need to be replaced (or would it be wise to) when the timing belt is replaced. Also, is there anyway to set the timing without the plugging into the data port?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There are a number of things that are suggested when the timing belt is changed. Especially now that the newer-style belt's change frequency is so much longer than the older style. (you did not say what YEAR your VW is)

    *)Timing belt (obviously)
    *)New stretch-bolts on engine mount (A MUST!)
    *)waterpump (recommended)
    *)Tensioner pully with new bearing (recommended)
    *)A tech. that KNOWS what they are doing (Recommended)

    Not replacing some of the items to save a buck may be unwise. Consider what may happen if the waterpump is NOT changed but does not survive to the NEXT timing-belt change. With luck,you will be paying for the same labor and a timing belt all over again. Without luck, you may be paying for an engine. (The same can be said for a tensionor bearing that is not changed.)

    There are some folks that re-used the special stretch-bolts on the engine-mount that must be removed to replace the belt. Some have reported that the re-used bolts came loose and the engine almost fell out the bottom of the car while driving!

    There is no question that changing a timing belt is an expensive propasition. Since it is a PLANNED maintenance item, there are ways to make it less painfull to the pocketbook besides skimping on the important stuff.

    *)Save up the $$ ahead of time over a year or so.
    *)Get in touch with a fellow TDIer that can help you do it for less.
    ...etc

    BTW, If done properly, no timing changes are needed. Certainly, it does not hurt to check the timing before and after the job.
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