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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,916
    1. No, left to unscrew it, counter clock wise 2. Sump drain bolt, left to unscrews it, counter clock wise 3. it is a cartridge type filter media. So you dont throw a steel canister away that thats eons to break down

    Lastly it might be worth your while to get either the CD Bentley's techincal manual or hard copy and/or both.
  • Hello, I am new to this forum, and have just read about this "sooting" problem. I own a 2003 New Beetle TDI, and really love this car. At around 30,000 miles it started puffing out a lot of smoke, and the following day of this, would not start. I had it towed to the dealer, luckily everything was still under warranty, so no cost to me, and the service mechanic told me that the EGR valve was clogged up, and recommended I use the additive.

    I was hoping you could explain the EGR mod, or where I could find more info about, because now at 55,000 miles my TDI has the same problem, but this time my son-in-law who is a truck diesel mechanic, took the hose loose from the EGR and shutter, and we found it extremely clogged up. We used carburator cleaner and cleaned it up fairly good, the shutter valve was opening and closing much better, but it looks like there is a procedure to do this on a regular basis?

    I appreciate any advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    With the minimal cleaning you did -- you have not touched the "tip of the iceburg". The ENTIRE INTAKE MANIFOLD is plugged up and needs to be removed and cleaned.

    You also should consider changing your driving habits. It is well known that TDI engine does not like to be "babied". Light throttle usage actually increases the intake-sooting problem. It is recommended to use FULL THROTTLE ACCELLERATION at least once a week to keep things cleaned out. You do not have to go "fast" or break any laws... just ACCELLERATE quickly.

    As for the "EGR Mod" , you need access to VAG-COM and need to change a setting in the computer.

    Also look into other "Mods" that folks have been doing to reduce/eliminate intake clogging. The "Elephant hose mod" and variations on that theme are all good for reducing the amount of oil that gets sucked into the intake-manifold.

    Also, review the brand of oil you are using. (it also has an effect)

    There is literally HOURS (perhaps weeks) of reading related to intake-clogging and how to manage it. Edmunds new rules prohibit me from specificaly telling you how to get at the information....Search the web for details.
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Can anyone give me any info as to where I can purchase Mobil Delvac motor oil for my '03 TDI? I live in Indiana, and can you give me any help as to where to go for best price also?

    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Most Wallymarts carry "Mobil1 Truck&SUV 5W40" it meets all lubrication specifications for your 2003 TDI. Most folks beleive it to be re-packaged Delvac1.

    Feel free to visit the MOBIL website and compare the specifications of "Delvac1 5W40" against "Mobil1 Truck&SUV 5W40". If you find any differences, please let us know.
  • I too have a 06 TDI and am having the rear window "wash out". Took to dealer with no help. Does anyone else have this?
  • What is the best fuel additive? Any advice on a clean way to use the stuff?
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    thanks so much! I will check out that web site, and Walmart
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I just bought the fuel additive listed on this site - white bottle - at walmart. Can't remember the name right now, but browse back several pages and you will find several things about it - but - a clean way to use it....that's something that I am trying to figure out. I purchased a small funnel that had a twist-on lid at both ends. I marked it at the 3.2 oz mark (to treat 10 gal) and my thinking was to keep this and the additive in my trunk. I used it for the first time last week, and I learned some things quickly. that stuff stinks as bad or worse than diesel fuel, and the funnel, as well as the bottle, stunk the trunk up - even with the lids on it. I couldn't wait to get home and get it out of the car. I thought that I could prepare before hand by filling the funnel at home and having it ready to go, but the funnel is not air tight and has no gaskets, so it tends to leak. I may use a little bottle to carry some of the additive in which is air tight and take the funnel in a zip lock bag when I need to fill up.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    You have to be careful regarding the your container's plastic compound. Power Service will eat through many plastics. I bought an 8 oz. bottle of STP diesel fuel treatment, used it once, and since have measured the amount of diesel fuel additive I need into the STP bottle. It's shape is fine for pouring without spills. Diesel fuel additives are VERY flammable. I only carry the bottle in my rig when I'm on the way to refuel.
  • According to some other "site", Power Service and Standyne ae the most popular fuel additives to TDI. After I did my research, I decided to use Standyne on my new 2006 TDI on every refuel. I bought a whole case.
    Also using biodiesel (B5,B10,B20) will also help to keep your car intake cleaner.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    You can get some small squirt bottles and fill them ahead of time. Squirt one in when you fill-up and toss it or re-use. I used to put the additives in at every fill-up and this was my routine. I'm not a huge additive fan anymore, I just use the best fuel I can find and keep some powerservice on-board in case I'm forced to fuel somewhere I don't know/trust the fuel to be treated properly for gelling. Just make sure the plastic containers are made out of the right kind of plastic to handle the additive. I forget which type of plastic you want, but a little research should do the trick.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I too contemplated many ways to "dispense" a measured amount of additive at each fillup. I wanted to eliminate the "smellyness" and possible spillage of additive in vehicle.

    I ended up with this:

    1) purchase supply of uncoated paper cups. (500-count 8oz will last the life of your TDI)
    2)Carry about 15 cups in trunk.
    3)Also carry 1qt container of additive IN ORIGINAL CONTAINER.
    4) At each fillup, shape paper cup into spout, fill cup to about 6oz, pour into fueltank then toss cup in trash.
    5)Also carry supply of wet-wipes to clean hands of any smelly residue after completing.

    The 1qt container of additive and cups are inside a sealed container. (double sealed) This fits nicely into the "cubby" in the trunk.

    The idea of trying to pre-measure additive into some other container, syringe or other device always has the drawback of having to deal with the smelly residue that will remain. It is obvious that the ONLY real way to eliminate that possibility is to simply NOT CARRY anything that may have additive residue on it.
  • On the pint size standyne (32 oz). It clearly has mark at every 8 oz interval and 8 oz will probably treat 1 tank (14 gallons) of diesel. So you don't really has to carry any cup, small bottle, etc. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you do the math -- it is more like 6oz that will treat one tank on the TDI. 80z will not hurt... but use up the additive faster.

    Besides... I know that I will be driving my TDI for at leat 150K miles... why would I want to purchase additive by the quart? I get mine at Wallmart inthe larger containers.
  • There is no valve on the bottom of the fuel filter to drain the water. Dealer told me I need to vacuum water out of the top (remove hex screw on top of housing) Looked like an air bleed to me. I tried to do this with no success. Any help
    Also should I definitly be using a fuel additive - I read a lot about intake clogging. Any particular brand?
  • I just had the Timing belt break on my 99 Jetta TDI. When I removed the intake it was almost completely clogged throughout. Should not have babied it I guess. The least of my problems though. 4 bent exhaust and 1 intake valve. Camshaft bent also. Apparently my head has 8 mm valves, not the normal 7 mm. The VW dealer says I can not get 8 mm valves and will have to replace all valves and guides to upgrade to 7 mm. Anyone heard of this before, or know know of an aftermarket source for valves?
  • Hi- I have a 2001 jetta TDI. When starting the car, the glow plug light comes on very quickly (for about 1-2 seconds) then goes off- no matter how cold or hot it is. The check engine light is not on. I Tried changing the temperature sensor and the glow plug relay- but that did not fix the problem. When the temperature sensor is unplugged, the glow plugs come on for about 15 seconds and the car starts fine. Has anyone run into this problem, or know how to fix it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Having timing belt break is very bad news (as you have discovered.) Not only will you have bent/broken valves.... do not forget that it is the PISTONS that hit the valves so the tops of them need to be very carefully inspected. Damaged pistons are a possibility.

    I am courious about your TB breakage.... How many miles (and what kind of xmission) does your 99 Jetta TDI have on it?

    To answer your question, Unless you have utmost trust that whoever rebuilds your head can do a superb job, consider just replacing the head with a rebuilt one. It will bolt right on and you should be back on the road much quicker. (your old head may have trade-in value)

    Also do some searching on the internet for "TDI" and you will find a wealth of info. including a source for rebuilt TDI heads.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am not clear what your "problem" is. It is normal for the GP light to not stay on very long unless the ambient temp is pretty cold.

    Are you suggesting at when the ambient temp. is 20F, that your GP light is behaving like this?

    As for your apparent starting issue (which you only alluded to) Check all 4 GPs for continunity. Also check the the GP harness for corrosion at the connectors.

    It is also a good idea to have your IQ checked. (Injection Quality). It is the #1 problem when TDI does not start well.
  • Hi there, I just posted this to another forum here, but since I hope/need to get some help TONIGHT so I can get this car running tomorrow morning, I'm posting here too. Sorry for the duplication.

    I recently bought a '96 VW tdi on ebay, and have been running it on biodiesel for a few weeks. It was never clear that I needed to replace the filter, though it seemed like it might have been losing power, so I bought one but didn't put it in. Today I drove it WAAYYYYY up into the mountains of West Virginia (I am building a house up here, I'm a builder), and it died on me. Stopped running, and when I cranked it it didn't even catch. I swapped out the filter (filled with biodiesel first), and now it catches, but won't run more than a few seconds. It SEEMS like the longer I wait between starts, the more likely it is to run as long as 4-5 seconds.

    I looked underneath, since I was concerned I might have crushed a fuel line on a rock or something (I'm 2 miles into the woods on a very very bad road), but I don't see a problem (it seems to have a blue plastic fuel line, unless I'm missing something).

    I am concerned that since it's pretty cold up here (around freezing) the fuel might have iced up. It's going to get a lot colder tonight. Fortunately, the person for whom I'm building the house has a cabin, which I'm in now, and I can get on the internet. I will go out tomorrow morning and try to get it running: if anyone has any ideas, I would be SO GRATEFUL. The best I can think of is to try to get a big heater and heat up the engine/fuel. The other thing that comes to mind is that I have to do something after changing the fuel filter: repressurize the system or something. I'll try to search for info on that.

    Anyway, thanks for any help anyone can offer. I'll check for responses in a few hours, or maybe in the morning.

    Keith

    PS: this is not a joke. You can see my web site (which stinks, but hey...) at earthsunenergy dott comm. I really could use any help you can offer! Thanks so much.
  • If you start using biodiesel in an old car, it will start cleaning up the old mess in your tank and start clogging up your filter. I guess what you can do right now is put some diesel additive in it to prevent it from gelling. I also heard that you can put some additive in your fuel filter befroe you reinstall it. Good luck.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,931
    hi... not that i've ever had the good fortune to try biodiesel in either of my TDIs but i understand that biodiesel gels much worse than dinosaur diesel in general. and either can be treated with additives to avoid gelling. the big oil companies have the additive percentage down to a science depending on latitude/month where the fuel is sold. maybe the biodiesel producers are not quite as scientific/efficient/versatile about how much additive to use?
  • I forgot to mention, since I'm at a construction site, I had 3 gallons of diesel (for a bulldozer) that I added to the 9 gallons of biodiesel in the tank. But that was after I had problems, and I didn't think to empty out the filter and add that, though I might have some more and I might do that. I'm going to try pouring hot water on the injection pump and filter (covering them first with plastic wrap to avoid moisture problems), I think, this morning to see if that will warm them up enough. Right now, the car is in a terrible location, way up in the woods, and it's supposed to rain and snow here in the next couple days, so I have to get this out today, period. I might have use of a tractor to at least pull it down to the road. Anyway, thanks for your thinking so far, I know all about the gelling issue (not that I'd added anything to my biodiesel!).
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    I buy my Biodiesel at a Shell station on the NH/VT border. They have one pump for B-20 and 3 more for "Premium" Dinodiesel. The diesel filling stations are out back, and they must have a dozen gasoline pumps in the front. Needless to say it gives the impression that they sell in high volumes, and therefore an assurance that they have fresh fuel that is properly mixed for the climate.

    Lately, they have been posting signs on the dinodiesel pumps. In October, the small magnetic sign read "80/20 blend". I asked the clerks what that meant but they just shrugged. I thought that meant that the station, which has been a big biodiesel promoter with plenty of local press, had decided to just sell B-20 (20% biodiesel and 80% dinodiesel) in all of their pumps. Anyway, I bought the B-20 and drove on. In November, I noticed the signs have been switched to read "70/30 blend" on the dinodiesel pumps, so I asked the 2 clerks again. They just shrugged, but this time called "Fred" out of the back room.

    Turns out that Fred is the sign guy and knows all about the fuel. He said the blend on the dinodiesel pumps is 70% dinodiesel and 30% kerosene which is added to prevent gelling. Normally it is in a higher ratio (like 80/20 or even 90/10) but with cold weather coming they have made adjustments to the ratio. He said it can go as low as 60/40 (he has a sign ready to post) as the cold of winter sets in.

    I asked about the B-20 and he said it is 20% biodiesel blended with the current mix of dinodiesel. In this case, I bought 20% biodiesel blended with 80% dinodiesel (which was actually 70% dino and 30% kerosene). This makes the fuel blend to be 20% biodiesel, 56% dinodiesel and 24% kerosene. I still added the proper amount of PowerService in the white bottle to to make sure I was treated properly (I have never gelled, and i don't want to start on a long trip).

    So, I learned something new from Fred about fuel blends. And this station seems to go above and beyond to tell the customer exactly what they are buying (and at $2.70/ gal, they really should be that kind of clear!). I hope this helps in understanding biodiesle, but know it won't help the guy in WV start his car this morning (sorry).
  • AMSOIL , WWW.AMSOIL.COM HAS FINALLY RELEASED AN OIL FOR THE VW DIESEL.IT MEETS VW501.01,502.00,505.OO SPECS.
    AMSOIL IS PROBABLY THE BEST SYNTHETIC OIL ON THE MARKET AND SOME OF THE BEST ADDITIVES FOR DIESEL.IF YOU WANT PRODUCTS THAT REALLY WORK,CHECK INTO THE AMSOIL SITE AND MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION.
    THE OIL, 5-40 EUROPEAN SYNTHETIC FOR DIESELS MAY BE COSTLY BUT WITH THE EXTENDED DRAIN INTERVALS,10-15,000 MILES WITH A FILTER CHANGE IN-BETWEEN,FOR WHAT IT DOES,ITS WORTH IT.
    THIS IS ONE PERSONS OPINION, DECIDE FOR YOURSELF .
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    AMSOIL IS PROBABLY THE BEST SYNTHETIC OIL ON THE MARKET AND SOME OF THE BEST ADDITIVES FOR DIESEL.IF YOU WANT PRODUCTS THAT REALLY WORK,CHECK INTO THE AMSOIL SITE AND MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION.

    What testing or data did you use to form your opinion?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,916
    In the case of the TDI (actually gasser also) 10,000 mile OCI's are not considered "extended" drain. In fact it is considered "normal" : i.e., scheduled maintenance with NO filter change in between. Oem, Mann and Mahle filters are specified for 30,000 mile OCI's.

    Since I use a VW 505.00 (pre PD requirements) I use Mobil One Truck & Suv aka Delvac One 5w40 with 25,000 mile OCI's.

    I would agree that Amsoil almost uniformly over their product line makes great products. One question that is/was particular importance to me is the Amoil product worth the premium over the off the shelf (available at WALLY Mart for example) Mobil One T & S 5w40.

    One also might want to check the VOA's and UOA's to see the differences between the two products. Truly this is where "the rubber meets the road" so to speak.
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I am changing oil at 10,000 miles and installing a new Mann filter, and use Delvac One, at each change. Are you suggesting that I can go three changes before replacing the filter?

    And you go 25,000 miles between oil changes? I am reading you correctly? I have never heard of that before, and it seems extreme.

    thanks,

    Charles in Indiana
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,916
    YES. Big HOWEVER, since I do not know your conditions, nor understand how you drive your vehicle in your environment, the safe bet would be to run oil analysis: specifically 10k, 15k, 20k, 25k as sign posts. Most folks who do (UOA's) used oil analysis with the Delvac One 5w40 find 10,000 OCI's EXTREMELY conservative.

    I am also aware that it is not "cost effective" in the sense that an oil analysis can cost 15-50 dollars vs an Delvac One 5w40 oil and filter change at 24 dollars. It is really done for the information and treadline analysis; of which owners/managers of fleets can document if their policies are working and see individual deviations and of course cost control.

    Yes I go 25,000 miles between oil changes. So for example in my application that is app 1 year.
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