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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I think with any snow tire, its nice to read up on what owners have said about them. You kind of have to average out the concensus of what people are saying. I was seriously thinking about getting the Blizaks, they are a very popular snow tire. What really turned me against them was the comments regarding their longevity. I guess that Blizak openly states that they use a softer compound for the 1st 50% of tread life, but once you go through that they perform no better than a regular tire. In general, people were very happy with them for the 1st winter, but not after the 2nd winter. Snow tires cost enough where I want them to perform good until I replace them. Just my thoughts on why its worth your time and effort to use the internet to say what people have to say about any tire.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I've had Blizzaks on other vehicles and what you say is true. Plus I find them to have just ok handling. Plus if you have a warm day, they don't handle well at all. Very soft compound. Great in the snow/ice though. But, I'll buy the Nokians evertime because IMHO at the point you can't get around with the Nokians on a normal FWD car, you'll be out of ground clearance and won't get around regardless. An AWD car or something that sits a little taller might benefit more from the true-blue snow tires like a Blizzak.
  • I have a 03 jetta tdi. 85,000km, My oil is a black, I changed it a few times within 5000k, still black. Now it feels like I have no turbo at all except maybe a bit in first gear. I disconected the MAF, that did nothing. Is it possible the turbo is immobilized by sludge. I know my way around a car alright and would like to avoid paying a real mechanic if possible. Thank you to anyone that can help steer me in the right direction
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You must be new to diesel engines... the oil will be BLACK with soot almost all the time. The color of the engine oil tells NOTHING about its ability to lubricate the engine. Use the correct oil in your TDI and change it every 10,000 miles.

    As for your lack of power... check the intake manifold for plugging. Also check the VNT actuator on the turbocharger to make sure it moves freely.
  • Anyone have a 'true' opinion on whether to use Diesel #1 or Diesel #2 in their TDI? Ours is an '05 Jetta wagon. The dealer said use either one, the mechanic at a different VW dealership said #2, a fellow TDI owner said #1 only in the winter, etc., etc., etc. We live in Minnesota, so it can get pretty cold out here. Some stations carry both, others don't give you the option.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    Every State has a schedule for the 12 months of the year and what temperature their roadside diesel should be good to without gelling. They already mix the #1 & #2 to achieve the lower jell points. However, even though that is done, you will still see posts with people having their fuel jell so my suggestion is to be sure to add an anti-jell. The 3 most popular brands are: 1) Stanadyne (the performance formula will also boost your cetane & improve the fuel's lubricity) will lower your gell point to -66 degF (I bought a 5 gallon pail of this on-line at blueridgediesel.com for $129; you use it at a ratio of 1 ounce to 2 gallons so 5 gallons will last a long time). 2) Powerservice White is probably the most popular additive because it is the most available (use the Power service silver in the warmer months, that doesn't have the anti-gel in it). Powerservice is about $12/gallon at Walmart, AutoZone or most other car parts chain stores. 3) A very popular diesel fuel anti-gel sold at many truck stops is Howes diesel treat & anti-jell. If you buy a case (pilot gas stations were selling a case (6 each 1/2 gallon jugs) for $54 the case includes a registration card that you cam mail in and Howe's will pay your tow costs if your fuel jells. Howe's is used in the ratio of 1 ounce to 2 gallons and will protect to -33 degF.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Do not use straight #1 diesel in a TDI engine... it is essentually kerosene and can destroy your fuel pump and injectors due to lack of lubrication.
  • Just came back from Germany and purchased my Jetta TDI in NC. We originally came from NY and thank goodness we did not go back. Among many other reason, you can't purchase a TDI in NY state.

    Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.

    Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.

    I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem. :(
  • Sorry, dhould have made this a new post

    Just came back from Germany and purchased my Jetta TDI in NC. We originally came from NY and thank goodness we did not go back. Among many other reason, you can't purchase a TDI in NY state.

    Anyway, the car less than 1000 miles and already the exhaust light is on solid (thankfully not blinking yet). Volkswagen tells me to check the gas cap which I've done.

    Yesterday I was in a parking lot and I started the car and then stalled. I tried this a few times before it started and stayed on.

    I'm trying to make an apt with Volkswagen but has anyone had this problem.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,896
    If this is a brand new car I would suspect bad fuel. Be sure and buy diesel from a busy dealer that sells a lot of diesel. If it sits in the storage tank a long time you get moisture among other things. Or if it is really cold and you are using number 2 diesel there is a chance of gelling. Use one of the many diesel fuel additives to increase cetane and prevent gelling. Good luck with your new TDI.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I'd try a new dealer. They obviously don't know diddly if they told you to check the gas cap. That's a gasser only problem.

    I can't really throw any ideas out there, could be lots of things and since it's brand new likely just has a bad sensor, or fuel issue. A dealer that knows the diesel cars won't have a problem figuring it out.
  • Does anyone know if there will be a diesel version of the Passat or even Audi in the US. The mileage yields intrigue me. I was thinking of an Avalon, but I'd like something with AWD and a tad better mileage. TIA!
  • I have a 99 Passat TDI 90hp AHU engine but Superchipped.This car has been running happily on a VegOil/Diesel mix for the past six months.Fuel heated by water heated heat exchanger.How ever, for cold morning starts I wired in a switch to turn off power to the Coolant Temp Sensor so the Glow Plugs would stay on that little bit longer if needed.Yesterday no Glow Plug light showed and car wouldn`t start.I checked and there is no power going to the Plugs.50 AMP fuse is ok.Don`t know about the GP Relay which I assume is Relay 180 in the ECU box.By the way, new plugs fitted 3 months ago.My question, if anyone can help:There is mention of a fusible link somewhere in the firewall according to the manual.I can find no sign of it.Also, as the GPs are only meant to come on at -9degrees C(so Im told), should the car not start even with no power to the Plugs? If so ,am I looking at a fuel problem?.I am losing patience with this car, only 85,000 miles and I think the Dual Mass flywheel is on the way out.Severe judder when accelerating around 1800rpm in 3rd 4th and 5th gear.Whole car shakes..Anyone had this problem too?
  • Sounds like you have air in your fuel line. It usually enters at or around the fuel filter. When the water is drained from the filter, or when the filter is replaced and the air is not completely purged, this problem can occur. also, if the drain plug on the fuel filter is not completely tightened, the problem will occur. I have just reached 100,000 miles on my 2001 New Beetle, and your problem is the only failure that I have had. Paid mechanic $500 to try to fix this problem. Finally, had to diagnose and fix it myself (by installing a new fuel filter for about $40). Good Luck!!
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I recently had my fuel door to stop latching. One minute it was fine and now - it won't latch shut. I notice also that I get no sound from the driver's door button when I pull it. anyone have any ideas? It's an '03 TDI. Incidentally, It worked fine until the day I filled the tank and ran the fuel over. I can't image that that has anything at all to do with this problem - but maybe.

    Thank you for your input.

    Charles in Indiana
  • My Jetta has a problem starting when it is close to the freezing temp. It will turn over for quite a while before starting. The preheat light in dash only stays on for a second then goes out. It starts well when cold out. It also runs very rough when cold. Runs very well when warm.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Perhaps it is high-time you check the glow-plugs and replace any that are burned out. (there are 4 glowplugs) They have served you well for many years.... but like any electric heaters, the eventually burn out.

    Glowplugs are easy-peasy to check with an ohmmeter after pulling the connectors off. (Any that are an electrical "open" is bad) To replace, they screw out just like a sparkplug.

    Also, the most common reason for starting issues is that the injection timing is incorrect. You need to connect your car to a computer to check this. You may find somone near you with a VAG-COM that would be willing to check it for you. (Edmunds rules forbid me from posting the link here ... Search the internet for "VAGCOM list")
  • ljg17ljg17 Posts: 2
    What type of veg oil are you using? Is it new or WVO?? if WVO how are you filtering it? What ratio are you using? How cold is it there? (I have never been to ireland) BTW what does a gallon of diesel set you back in ireleand?
  • I use new Veg Oil costing 62c (Eur) per ltr.Mix 60/40 in summer and 40/60 in Winter.I add 2 ltrs of Petrol to thin the mix and clean the injectors. Winter temps rarely go below minus 4degrees C.Cost of diesel has fallen recently to approx $1.20 per ltr.
    Update on my problem: I have replaced both power Supply relay and Glow Plug relay.There is fuel going to injectors but still no start and no power to Glow Plugs.I tried VAG COM with just ignition on and all I get is "No response from Controller" Any ideas? Is my ECU shot?
  • ljg17ljg17 Posts: 2
    Have you tried posting this question at tdi club daught comm ? Those guys really know the TDI inside and out. Have you used the vagcom before? I.E. it is not an issue with the software PC etc. Has there been any other maintenance issues recently?
  • wb3jwb3j Posts: 3
    Hello All:
    I am having a problem with a 2000 TDI I bought about 3 months ago. It is low mileage....55,000. The car runs great, very peppy, no smoke, good mpg. About once a week it will start immediately & smoothly, then stall, as if I shut the key off. It will do this 6-8 times, then start as if there was no problem. No hesitation, no burbing, nothing. It DOES NOT matter if it's cold out side, or if the engine is cold from sitting overnight or hot from just being turned off. I've done some reading....there are a ton of differant things from improper injection timing, to glow plugs to just something loose or needing attention, like a seloniod. The other day it really acted up...took 30 minutes to start (I walked away) then returned & drove off like nothing happened. Any ideas...suggestions? Many thanks...
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    You might want to check to see if your anti-shudder valve might be sticking closed. This valve is an on/off flapper valve in your air intake that should only close for about 3 seconds right after you turn the car off. You might want to read up on doing this a bit at tdiclub because I think that there is a plastic linkage arm that can easily break when you pull this to clean it (they had a procedure for using a paper clip to reconnect the linkage if the plastic arm broke). Do you have the clear piece of fuel tubing leaving your fuel filter? If you do, look to see if you might be sucking air in with your fuel, that can cause some flaky problems. The thermostatic tee valve at the fuel filter can be a source of air in leakeage; if you change the fuel filter you need to replace the O-rings on this tee valve. Also, sometimes (often when changing the fuel filter), these valves get cracked (Its a good idea to have a backup on hand, you can get them at the dealer, or I bought mine at tdiparts for $20, they sell the orings too). I would think that its not glow plug related unless its only a problem when it pretty cold out. Injection timing wouldn't fix itself after the car started.
  • wb3jwb3j Posts: 3
    many thanks....I'm printing the replies from readers....I'll check them as soon as I can. I'm new to TDI...completely lost so far.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Immediately shutting down after starting sounds like the immobalizer kicking in. Does it do this with other keys in the ignition? (you should have gotten 3 keys when you bought it.)
  • I was quoted $80 for oil change (Jetta TDI 2005). Dealer is Ed Murphy Volkswagen in Schaumburg, IL. It looks quite expensive.

    How much are you paying?
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,896
    I paid $53 for the 5000 mile service including oil & new filter on my 2005 Passat TDI. At Drew VW in La Mesa CA. Excellent dealer.
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    Oil change is something you can do yourself. TDIparts.com has oil & filters. Use only oil that meets the VW505.01 spec. I do it myself for @$25 plus half an hour of my time. The only mainataince that you really need the dealer for is doing the timing belt. Check TDIClub.com for how-to videos. DIY maintainance is as good way to get to know your car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you sure that $80 is just for an oil change? If you have a 2005 TDI, then you should not be getting just oil-changes. The suggested maintenance schedlule does not have "only" oil-changes anywhere in it.
  • wb3jwb3j Posts: 3
    I only got 1 key...the vaalet key & no keyless transmitter. It was a trade a high end dealer took in & the Jetta was a bit rough. I paid only $4500 for the car with 54k on it, so I think I did ok. The stalling started about a month ago. Since I only have the one key, I can't try another. I spoke to a dealer, they can make the master key from a vin# for about $100. I'm going to try that when I get extra cash. Thanks
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