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Volkswagen TDI Models

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  • I am preparing to begin commuting 200 miles per day. I have been considering the Jetta TDI and a Toyota Corolla. They both obviously are great for fuel mileage. I am aware of the Toyota reputation for long life and dependability but what feedback can I get from VW owners concerning the TDI?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Throw the mpg/dependability out the window, the Jetta drives extremely nice and has a lot of features that make it enjoyable to live in for 4 hours a day. That's the big difference in my book. The added fuel savings (comparing a 5-speed TDI vs a 5-speed Corolla) of the TDI will likely make up any cost difference if the TDI turns out to need an extra repair or two over the course. It's personally the only econo car I would want to live with. Otherwise, I'd be driving a V6 sedan of some sort to get the comfort/feature factor up to the Jetta level.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    Let's see, that micros out to 52,800 miles per year. Divided by 37/50 mpg= 1,427/1,056 gals. Savings of 371 gal per year or x50 mpg =18,550 miles/1546 miles per mo, or x 2.77 gal =$1,028. per year/$86 per mo.

    (Correct me if I am wrong. If I am incorrect, then rerun the correct figures)

    I do not really know what a Toyota Corolla gets in reality, but here is what I have side by side.

    (80/20 freeway/city: 35-1.5 hr, 25 mile x2=50 mile R/T daily commute)

    EPA 29/38, 2004 Honda Civic, range 37-41 commute 37.

    EPA 42/49, 2003 VW Jetta TDI, range 44-62 commute 50

    While I indeed like the Honda Civic, for the commute you mention my OVERWHELMING preference would be for the TDI. You can of course get more like 62 mpg in your commute. Watching paint dry is adrenaline pumping activity compared to trying to get 60-65 mpg and up. BUT that is purely knowing ME. The fact is you can not GET 60-65 in the Honda Civic, where you CAN get it in the TDI.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    So to conclude.

    1. you BE against a 1.8T almost immediately

    2. You BE against a 2.0 in app 1 year

    3. You BE against a Honda Civic (12600 vs TDI 18,000)
    in 5.3 years.
  • insiinsi Posts: 12
    Thanks for your reply.

    I think I will be getting FSI 2.0T 143kw engine instead of diesel because the TDI only comes with 103kw and I feel it is not enough power to get it going especially if I am buying the estate wagon.

    But TDI still in my mind because of longer km to travel per tank and since it is less power it is cheaper too compare to 2.0T FSI.

    I am disappointed with VW Australia they are not bringing 125kw TDI and some of the features not as much as I expected.

    Maybe getting Accord Euro (Accura TSX) instead, because leather, power front seats, sunroof, xenon and fog light already standard and cheaper AUS$4000 compare to 2.0T.
    What do you think?

    Thanks.
    Iwan
  • I agree with your #'s but, TDI msrp = $24,000 Corolla msrp = $16,000. In order to make up the difference in costs, I would have to drive the TDI for 7 years @ 50,000 mi/yr or 350,000. I don't think that is practical. The other consideration I have to take into account is, will the tdi last at least a year (50,000) longer? If so, forget the msrp difference because I just drove an extra year before a new purchase. Thanks for the feedback
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Are you comparing apples to apples on those prices? A fairly well equipped TDI looks closer to $21,000. Either way, the TDI will always be worth significantly more than a Corolla so you can't write-off the entire difference up-front.

    My '00 TDI with 130k miles currently books for about $4,000 more than a somewhat similar Corolla.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    "TDI msrp = $24,000 Corolla msrp = $16,000"

    The essential issue seems to be buy two @ 16,000 per or 32,000 vs one at 24,000. And is it reasonable to project one will go in effect a min of twice as long.

    Let's see, if I might say, your mileage can be considered EXTREME. Another way to look at it is at the 7 year mark do you anticipate still having the requirement for the 50k plus per year? Again if so and having one car to do it, I would still chose the TDI.

    So for example, we have a requirement for a 18k commute plus 28k for a 46k per year. The only reason we got the Civic was the wife was tired of (wanted auto) shifting, but still wanted good mpg, or as best as possible. My goal and time horizon was and still is 500k -1M for the TDI. So I guess the real question is what is the time/mileage horizon for the Toyota Corolla for you? (for the Civic it is 250,000 plus)
  • Good arguments that are swaying me in a direction that I was already leaning. I had a typo on the msrp of the Toyota. Similar equipment, Jetta msrp = $24,200 Toyota msrp = $17,199. I plan to discontinue this commute within 5 years.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    Also if this is a bit too deep, let me know and I will cut it off. However since you anticipate doing 250,000 miles in 5 years, it would help you further decide based on the logistics. I mean stuff like oil and filter changes, fuel filters, cabin filters, brake pads, rotors, tires, balancing, alignments, timing belt, water pump, changes, bearings, strut/shocks, /strut/shock hardware.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Safety51 My hat goes off to you. A 200 mile a day commute? I hope that is round trip. I commute to work once a month, stay 15 days and return. My commute time each way is 35 minutes so it is not much of a problem. Tomorrow I have to drive to Seattle and that will be about 90 minutes one way IF the traffic is normal, what ever that is. I’d almost rather put a bullet in my foot than drive to Seattle on I-5. :cry: :cry: OK, Im spoiled :blush: Coming home should be good for two hours. :sick: If it snows as predicted, I may never get home, well maybe Friday morning early. :sick:
  • I actually made this commute for 8 years. For the past 4 years, I have gone back and forth only on weekends. Since the daughter was married, wife has decided it is too lonely during the week so guess what? If there is anything good about my commute it is lack of traffic, can make the trip in an hour and 40 minutes. Have to be on the lookout for deer though.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    Given your 8 years and app 425,000 mile commute, what are some of the statistics and tools you used to execute 50k plus miles per year?
  • Not sure what you are asking for with tools and statistics. One tool is a strong back (used to be before 3 episodes with the surgeon)I drove Saturns, Pontiacs and Fords. That is why I am now considering the Jetta. It seems to be much more comfortable and have good lumbar support.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,756
    I meant how many miles did you put on what vehicles. How did they hold up. What kind of scheduled and unscheduled maintenance did you do,etc.
  • Here is the break-down
    Chevrolet S-10 50,000 (new engine, 2 transmissions)
    Saturn sw2 60,000 (very uncomforatble for 6'2")
    Pontiac Sunfire 175,000 ( no problems, wanted something new, bad decision)
    Ford Focus ZX3 60,000 ( gave to daughter on 16th B-day)
    Ford Ranger 75,000 ( traded for F150 when I discontinued daily commute)
    4,000 mile oil/filter change interval, for automatics I complied with all service recommedations.
    If I thought I could find another Pontiac that would give me the service that I got out of the last one, I would but feel that the previous one was an exception.
  • I'm trying to hook up trailer lights on an 03 TDI wagon. Anybody know how to remove the plastic tray behind the spare tire? I'm trying to find the best spot to run the wires thru to the hitch area. I'm using the lighting adapter from Hidden Hitch. Any advice?
    tia,
    mp
  • bobjoe16bobjoe16 Posts: 1
    have had the same problem at about the same mileage vw dealer could not figure it out (in warranty)after 3 injector pumps, misc other parts,6 months etc. I am retired mercedes tech. I finally pulled engine cover and started checking and found air bubbles going up fuel line when engine running, fuel line uses o-rings to connect fuel lines together, designed for gas cars they suck air when heavy diesel is pulled past them and they are worn slightly (worse when hot). check for bubbles there should not be any, if present, replace the fuel line o-rings where the lines clip together. you will need a fuel line tool for this. kd makes 1 for fords etc. that works fine!
    hope this helps. interested if anyone else has seen this problem
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,891
    So simple, yet the parts changers at the dealership were not able to find the trouble. Our eyes are still the best tool we have. Along with common sense.

    Thanks for the tip and welcome to the forum...
  • hvyhvy Posts: 8
    currently own 2004 vw golf with 57,000 miles. no problems excellant vehicle. question i have is what to expect with the new low sulfur diesel fuel thats expected to come out. i heard problems relating to seals etc going out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The Diesel fuel in USA has been "Low Sulfer" for many years. I assume your concerns are about the "Extremely Low Sulfer Diesel" (ELSD)

    You can put your concerns to rest... the VW engines are DESIGNED to run on ELSD in Europe. Your VW will run BETTER when fed with the fuel it is desinged for. (less emmissions, less smoking, less intake-plugging....etc) In fact, a lot of the problems that folks have with TDIs in USA are linked to the exxcessive sulfer in our cr@ppy fuel.

    I have NEVER EVEN HEARD about concerns with "seals" (whatever that means). I am curious, what kind of "seals" are you talking about? How can the LACK of unwanted sulfer affect anything? (except in a positive way)
  • hvyhvy Posts: 8
    yes i meant the new extremely low sulfer. in regards to seals i was referring to the fuel leaks. also are there going to be problems with fuel lubricity problems
  • I have a 2002 Jetta GLS Wagon TDI,auto and leather. I only have 29,800 miles on it and it's in great shape. My purchase option is $11,700. Here's my dilemma-- do I buy it, knowing it's worth more than I'd pay or turn it in on another lease (Passat has a great deal now)? I'm in "repair averse" and am concerned about the car going out of warranty in a month. My dealer's service is not great and I have no mechanic otherwise that I trust. Are there any issues I should think about? Potential expenses coming down the road? I'm worried about the annual shift lock sensor repair I've had, brakes,tires,window switches, what else?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    As I said before, I have not heard of any "seal" issues causing leaking on the millions of TDIs that VW has sold in Europe. There is no reason to think that your TDI would exibit any "seal" issues.

    As for lubricity, I ALWAYS add 6oz of diesel additive at evey fillup. Not only does additive improve the lubricity, it also adds the all-important CETANE which noticibly improves MPG and quiets the engine. If you are worried about lubricity, just put in some additive. You will be rewarded with a better-running engine.
  • vchuckvchuck Posts: 2
    How do you check the automatic transmission oil levelBy accident the bung for the transmission oil was pulled and about a cup of transmission oil came out. Now I would like to check my transmission oil level. Does anyone know how I do this? Any help would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Checking the automatic xmission fluid level REQUIRES a computer hooked up to your car to determine fluid temperture and other criteria. If you do not have the equipment, see a reputable VW dealer.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    You would need Vagcom (check "http://www.ross-tech.com/products.html")in order to check this yourself. Vagcom allows you to check data in your car's computer. In Vagcom, select 02- Auto Trans, then measuring block #8, then group #5 field #1. That is the temperature of your tranny fluid in degrees celcius. To start you should be about 30 degrees celcius. There is a plug on the side of the transmission that gets removed to check the fluid level. Somewhere between 35 degC and 45 degC tranny fluid should drip out of this plug. If that happens your level is OK, if you get to 45 degrees C and no fluid, you add until it does come out. VW has a small container with a hose and a wand for adding fluid. The plastic container gets pressurized and the wand has a small valve to admit fluid. Looking at the Bentley manual, it looks like you add through a fill plug and it says to replace seal any time it is removed. They sure do make this process difficult huh? I'll take a simple dipstick any day. I just hope that my level never changes, even though I have Vagcom this still looks like a PITA.
  • vchuckvchuck Posts: 2
    Thanks a bunch for your info. Wow nothing easy about that. Might be the best idea to take it to Volkswagon & have them check it. But thanks for all the time taken to explain it so well and will keep on this info on file.
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    OK guys, I need the collective wisdom on this one. Belt went on my 1.9L ('02 Jetta). Why I'll leave for another post. What I need know now is what to ask, what to beware of, what to expect if I replace the engine. Car was bought used with 46K. I've done the scheduled maintainance on schedule.
    Particular issues; how do I determine how much of the engine can be salvaged? Use dealer or regular repair shop? Buy engine myself or let mechanic buy? What kind of warranty can I expect?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You should be able to "salvage" much of the engine. It is likely that the HEAD and everything in it (valves) are junk. Also expect to have some damaged pistons.

    You really need to do some research on this. Installing another engine *may* be more cost effective given all the labor of rebuilding the engine might entail.

    Here is a link to a place that sells TDI ENGINES

    OK--- now PLEASE tell us why the timing belt would break at such a low milage.
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