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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    The only time I've heard of all these issues on one car is when the dealer had no clue what they were doing and just throwing parts at it. There are a lot of electrical controls for the Turbo and a bad sensor can easily be misdiagnosed. I guess it doesn't matter since warranty is paying for it. I'd bet money they'll swap the turbo and still not fix the problem. Eventually they'll find the part and it'll likely be something simple that a decent tech could have diagnosed in a few minutes. That's the problem when you own a VW and don't have the ability to work on it yourself. Dealers don't really know much more than you, but they'll take a stab at it on someone's dime.
  • tdihelltdihell Posts: 5
    Then my only options are to fix it myself in the future, also through trial and error. Or move closer to a competent dealer. Anyone have recommendations in the Miami area? I've spoken to VW customer service 3 times, and though they seem concerned, they aren't doing anything to really help. The next step will be to force my dealer to buy back the car for what I paid for it last September.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It never ceases to amaze me what people DONT know about their vehicles. Lets settle a few things.

    *)A diesel engine DOES NOT have a throttlebody! There is no throttle at all on a diesel engine. Engine speed is controled SOLELY by limiting the amount of fuel injected into the engine.

    *)There is NO WAY that a "blown" oil-cooler can suck air into the catalytic converter. The oil-cooler dumps heat into the ANTIFREEZE and is nowhere near the exhaust system.
    (Have you been losing oil from the engine?)

    *) Most turbochargers which are replaced have NOTHING wrong with them. A turbocharger is no more complicated than a vacuum-cleaner.... and is in-fact EXACTLY the same design.

    BOTTOM LINE: You have been fed a line of cr@p all along. They are just throwing parts at the problem and you should be glad that VW is picking up the bill.

    BTW: There is a SLIGHT chance that all the symptoms you are describing are caused by an oil-leak past the turbocharger seal. So I ask again ARE YOU LOSING ENGINE OIL?
  • tdihelltdihell Posts: 5
    No, I am not losing oil. And let me just point out that I am on this forum to educate myself, because apparently it's too much in this day and age to expect the actual manufacturer of a product to support that product. I have recently had to learn all about home wiring, plumbing, cabinetry, and flooring because of the amount of incompetent service people in Miami. Apparently I now have to become a diesel engine expert as well. If anyone has any recommendations for a competent VW dealer in the Miami area, please let me know!
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    my tdi is in desperate need of an oilchange, however, i can't find the drain plug; is it under the plastic skid plate below the motor. do i need to jack the car up. can anyone tell me how many quarts it takes, the oil filt. location etc. please help i don't want to have to pay 85.00 to the dealer. unfortunately im not a mech. either as you can tell. oh is there anything unusual i need to be aware of thanks carnut17
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here is a link to a website that "ranks" dealerships and other repair facilities.

    If you do some research on the internet...you may find other sources of information.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    First and foremost.... you MUST use the proper "VW approved" synthetic engine-oil. Anything less and you are asking for trouble. Here is a Suitable oil for your TDI.

    It takes 5 quarts.

    The oil-filter is NOT like you may have seen on other engines. It is JUST a filter-element with 2 O-rings to replace. (Wallmart carries the oil-filter and the O-rings are in the box with the filter)

    The oil-filter housing is right in front of the engine. (Between engine and radiator.) The top screws off.

    The drainplug is behind that plastic cover you mentioned. Most folks just suck the oil out thru the dipstick-tube with an oil-changer.

    This is the Oil-Changer that I use. (I got it on sale for less than $20)
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    thanks bpeebles for the oil change info it's people like you who make our world a better place. i luv my tdi, especially since these gas prices have been going thru the roof. the parts and serv. dept. at my vw dealer wouldn't give me the info i needed to do my own oil change ; can you believe it. it is nice to know i don't have to purchase the oil or the filter from them; the last thing i want to to do is give them money. THANKS AGAIN BPEEPLES!!!!
  • tdihelltdihell Posts: 5
    Great link. Thanks, bpeebles!!
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    Thanks for both posts, bpeebles. My recently "went out of business dealer" (Grappone in Concord) was ranked fairly low, confirming what I felt is the reason (not slow sales as their letter said, but poor service). This will help me find a new place for warranty work (looks like Lakes Region Audi/VW in Laconia is held in high esteem).

    I am curious on the oil vac. As I understand it, the oil is removed through the dipstick tube. What is the residual left in the engine? Is this the most "sludgy" oil, only to contaminate the replacement? Is the drain method (assuming the drain plug is at the lowest point in the crankcase) more efficient than the vac method at removing the oil? What are some tricks to make sure the oil is fully removed?(Warm up the engine? park it on a slight incline: toward the front/back)?

    I always find it disconcerting that the oil looks so dirty after having it changed. I know...diesels have soot. It just bothers me when I pull the dipstick after a 15 mile drive home and still have 9,985 miles to the next change!

    Also, the dipstick on my '05 always reads high (above the bend) on one side, but OK on the other. It must drag somewhere in the tube?? But, it bothers me as it feels like there is too much oil in there!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Hey, don't sweat it. I've had mine tested at 12k miles and it was still well within spec. The diesel oil is designed to suspend soot, no biggie. An oil test is only around $20 and if it makes you feel better...it's worth twice that!

    I've never used the vac method just because I like to crawl under the car and make sure everything looks good, no leaks, etc. And with 10k mile intervals, it's good to do an inspection every time.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,864
    UP shot: dont worry!

    There are at least two indicators that show it to not be a reasonable worry.

    1. Look at the dry sump quantity specification vs the oil change specification. BIG difference, i.e., an oil change does NOT get ALL the oil out.

    2. There is a noticable difference in dipstick level based on whether or not you follow the oem specified oil level checking procedure vs i.e. overnight.

    So as soon as you get the engine up to operating temp it almost guarentee's some oil will remain (in addition to the differences in dry sump vs oil change quantity)

    OR if you "cold drain" the oil you will have more in the sump to drain out but almost NO oem recommends a cold drain.

    I use a Mity VAC, but almost any one will work just fine.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "I am curious on the oil vac. As I understand it, the oil is removed through the dipstick tube. What is the residual left in the engine?"

    I've used my Pela oil extractor on four different car and after the first attempt on each, I crawled underneath and pulled the drain plug, just to see how much oil remained in the pan (if any). In all four cases, pulling the plug yielded a drip or two and that was it. The flip side is that the oil "sucked" out came with far more sump bottom deposits after that first change than was typical. After a few usages of the pump the amount of solids started declining. What that means to me is that the suction is actually picking up solids that would otherwise simply remain in the bottom of the sump when draining the oil via the conventional method.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    i went to my vw dealer to get my oil change supplies; they sold me castrol 5w/50w full synthetic, however no where does it say on the container that it i formulated for diesel engines. they assured me this was the correct oil and it is what their using. inaddintion; they initially they sold me 5w/40w i asked for 5w/50w, did i do the right thing? it really gets hot here in sacramento 90 plus is the avg. summer temp. is the castrol syntec ok to use on the tdi or did they make a monkey out of me thanks everyone
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,864
    Geez, it is hard to believe dealers are STILL not selling the correct oil to TDI owners !!!!

    Please look in your owners manual for the correct VW specification, VW 502.00 OR whatever your owners manual REALLY says!!!! And tell them that is the oil you want!!! So take it back! Unless you see the correct specification number on the Castrol 5w50 oil, the chances are it is the WRONG oil.

    The 5w40 is probably the correct oil, BUT since VW specifications have changed SO MUCH since my 2003, the best is to look it up in YOUR specific owners manual to be ABSOLUTELY sure.
  • jess198624jess198624 Posts: 1
    I've had my 99 Jetta for about a month and a half now and for some reason my fuel door latch will not open when I use the button to normally open it. :( Latelly I've having to jam something in there to get it just to release. When I push the button I hear no click whatsoever like I used to. Maybe the fuse blew? I need help with cars, they aren't my expertise. I've already tried with leaving all doors unlocked, nothing seems to help. Any suggestions? I don't know much about cars.
    *Jess
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    jess i had the same problem with 03 jetta tdi. it was the switch in the drivers door that the dealer had to replace, at least thats what the dealer told me i don't know if they were telling me the truth or not becuase my car was under warranty at the time and they never seem to be honest. it very annoying
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    If I'm thinking correctly, there is an "emergency" pull in the trunk to release the fuel door. I'm 600 miles from my car so I can't go look at the moment.
  • music287music287 Posts: 116
    BPeeples:

    I notice your recommendation for the Mobil 1 product. The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc.
    Do you have an opinion about this company?

    I'll be taking delivery of a 2006 TDI Jetta in July/August.

    Jay
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    It is my understanding that the Mobil 1 oil has been certified to meet the VW 505.00 specification for diesel engines, AMSOIL only claims to meet it. Two very different things in my book.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc.

    And what would you expect the Amsoil website to recommend???
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,993
    A good question to ask the Amsoil dealer. Will you give me a written guarantee, that if VW voids my warranty due to using Amsoil, they will cover any damages. I would not use anything but the specified oil. It is only changed on a 10k cycle. I paid $6.25 per liter at my dealer for the Castrol 505.01, not a big deal.
  • magbarnmagbarn Posts: 35
    I know I'm double posting,but here goes:
    My new job requires me to do a 90 mile round trip commute and my 03 BMW is getting pretty expensive to drive here with $3.50/gal gas. Reading about this Jetta TDI has gotten me very excited but after calling 5 different dealers in socal NONE have one in stock as they won't make them until '08 model year. I'd like to buy one new. My parents own a 2nd home in Arizona where you can still get a TDI. What can I do do get one of these cars before the STOP making them in september?
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    i purchased my tdi used in calif. i think that is the only legitimate way to own one in this backward state. i heard the car has to have at least 12,000miles on it before it can be resold. unfortunately; our state law makers are still making pollution laws from 1960's technology. vw says the tdi actually pollutes less then it's gas counterpart. inaddition, calif. has a huge number of cars on the road and the oil companys don't want the fuel saving diesels to catch on here because it would put a dent in their profits. they are already starting to lobby against the elect. hybrids by saying that they can pose an electrocution hazard in an accident to the occupants and rescue personnel, can you believe that thanks magbarn
  • carnut17carnut17 Posts: 46
    if your parents live in arizona just buy a new one there and use their address on the paperwork. the only drawback is you will have to drive for two years with an arizona lic. plate in calif. did you say their discontinuing the jetta tdi in sept. 06 ?
  • jimlockeyjimlockey Posts: 265
    VW will not stop making TDI's, but rather re-tooling for a new rail diesel.

    Nobody knows if it will be a full year until they release the new 08's or could be six months. VW has the 06 TDI Jetta's, but they are selling them as fast as they get them.
  • magbarnmagbarn Posts: 35
    But will they be sold in my butt backward state ie, the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia?
  • music287music287 Posts: 116
    You know, davids1, writing snide comments in a public newsgroup does not speak well of your respect for fellow human beings. The AMSoil website has specific recommendations for the VW tdi. Amongst them are some of their products and other, generic recommendations.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,864
    Yes a good question. I have read the assertion and as I remember it, they indeed asserts Amsoil will write a letter in keep with the "Magnasson" ? anti trust legislation, as leverage in getting the OEM to perform specific engine repairs so called due to lack of specified performance of SAID motor oil (Amsoil) The reasoning goes that since very few engine problems are related to engine oil that due to the Magnasson Act, the OEM should not be withheld using a non certified oil. (such as Amsoil)

    I don't read this to be a Tammy Wynette like: "Stand By Your Oil" type of verbiage.

    My take is that if you use Castro 505.01 spec oil, they will immediate begin warranty proceedings after say an oil analysis.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc. Do you have an opinion about this company?

    My comment was not meant to offend, but was meant to ask you if you would expect their website to recommend another manufacturers product? It appeared you put a lot of faith in Amsoil's recommendations! Just because Amsoil recommends a product, does not necessarily mean it meets the vehicle manufacturers recommendations.

    I really have no opinion of Amsoil's products, so I was trying to inject a bit of objectivity into the discussion.
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