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Volkswagen TDI Models



  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Safety51 My hat goes off to you. A 200 mile a day commute? I hope that is round trip. I commute to work once a month, stay 15 days and return. My commute time each way is 35 minutes so it is not much of a problem. Tomorrow I have to drive to Seattle and that will be about 90 minutes one way IF the traffic is normal, what ever that is. I’d almost rather put a bullet in my foot than drive to Seattle on I-5. :cry: :cry: OK, Im spoiled :blush: Coming home should be good for two hours. :sick: If it snows as predicted, I may never get home, well maybe Friday morning early. :sick:
  • I actually made this commute for 8 years. For the past 4 years, I have gone back and forth only on weekends. Since the daughter was married, wife has decided it is too lonely during the week so guess what? If there is anything good about my commute it is lack of traffic, can make the trip in an hour and 40 minutes. Have to be on the lookout for deer though.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,490
    Given your 8 years and app 425,000 mile commute, what are some of the statistics and tools you used to execute 50k plus miles per year?
  • Not sure what you are asking for with tools and statistics. One tool is a strong back (used to be before 3 episodes with the surgeon)I drove Saturns, Pontiacs and Fords. That is why I am now considering the Jetta. It seems to be much more comfortable and have good lumbar support.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,490
    I meant how many miles did you put on what vehicles. How did they hold up. What kind of scheduled and unscheduled maintenance did you do,etc.
  • Here is the break-down
    Chevrolet S-10 50,000 (new engine, 2 transmissions)
    Saturn sw2 60,000 (very uncomforatble for 6'2")
    Pontiac Sunfire 175,000 ( no problems, wanted something new, bad decision)
    Ford Focus ZX3 60,000 ( gave to daughter on 16th B-day)
    Ford Ranger 75,000 ( traded for F150 when I discontinued daily commute)
    4,000 mile oil/filter change interval, for automatics I complied with all service recommedations.
    If I thought I could find another Pontiac that would give me the service that I got out of the last one, I would but feel that the previous one was an exception.
  • I'm trying to hook up trailer lights on an 03 TDI wagon. Anybody know how to remove the plastic tray behind the spare tire? I'm trying to find the best spot to run the wires thru to the hitch area. I'm using the lighting adapter from Hidden Hitch. Any advice?
  • bobjoe16bobjoe16 Posts: 1
    have had the same problem at about the same mileage vw dealer could not figure it out (in warranty)after 3 injector pumps, misc other parts,6 months etc. I am retired mercedes tech. I finally pulled engine cover and started checking and found air bubbles going up fuel line when engine running, fuel line uses o-rings to connect fuel lines together, designed for gas cars they suck air when heavy diesel is pulled past them and they are worn slightly (worse when hot). check for bubbles there should not be any, if present, replace the fuel line o-rings where the lines clip together. you will need a fuel line tool for this. kd makes 1 for fords etc. that works fine!
    hope this helps. interested if anyone else has seen this problem
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,680
    So simple, yet the parts changers at the dealership were not able to find the trouble. Our eyes are still the best tool we have. Along with common sense.

    Thanks for the tip and welcome to the forum...
  • hvyhvy Posts: 8
    currently own 2004 vw golf with 57,000 miles. no problems excellant vehicle. question i have is what to expect with the new low sulfur diesel fuel thats expected to come out. i heard problems relating to seals etc going out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    The Diesel fuel in USA has been "Low Sulfer" for many years. I assume your concerns are about the "Extremely Low Sulfer Diesel" (ELSD)

    You can put your concerns to rest... the VW engines are DESIGNED to run on ELSD in Europe. Your VW will run BETTER when fed with the fuel it is desinged for. (less emmissions, less smoking, less intake-plugging....etc) In fact, a lot of the problems that folks have with TDIs in USA are linked to the exxcessive sulfer in our cr@ppy fuel.

    I have NEVER EVEN HEARD about concerns with "seals" (whatever that means). I am curious, what kind of "seals" are you talking about? How can the LACK of unwanted sulfer affect anything? (except in a positive way)
  • hvyhvy Posts: 8
    yes i meant the new extremely low sulfer. in regards to seals i was referring to the fuel leaks. also are there going to be problems with fuel lubricity problems
  • I have a 2002 Jetta GLS Wagon TDI,auto and leather. I only have 29,800 miles on it and it's in great shape. My purchase option is $11,700. Here's my dilemma-- do I buy it, knowing it's worth more than I'd pay or turn it in on another lease (Passat has a great deal now)? I'm in "repair averse" and am concerned about the car going out of warranty in a month. My dealer's service is not great and I have no mechanic otherwise that I trust. Are there any issues I should think about? Potential expenses coming down the road? I'm worried about the annual shift lock sensor repair I've had, brakes,tires,window switches, what else?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    As I said before, I have not heard of any "seal" issues causing leaking on the millions of TDIs that VW has sold in Europe. There is no reason to think that your TDI would exibit any "seal" issues.

    As for lubricity, I ALWAYS add 6oz of diesel additive at evey fillup. Not only does additive improve the lubricity, it also adds the all-important CETANE which noticibly improves MPG and quiets the engine. If you are worried about lubricity, just put in some additive. You will be rewarded with a better-running engine.
  • vchuckvchuck Posts: 2
    How do you check the automatic transmission oil levelBy accident the bung for the transmission oil was pulled and about a cup of transmission oil came out. Now I would like to check my transmission oil level. Does anyone know how I do this? Any help would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Checking the automatic xmission fluid level REQUIRES a computer hooked up to your car to determine fluid temperture and other criteria. If you do not have the equipment, see a reputable VW dealer.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    You would need Vagcom (check "")in order to check this yourself. Vagcom allows you to check data in your car's computer. In Vagcom, select 02- Auto Trans, then measuring block #8, then group #5 field #1. That is the temperature of your tranny fluid in degrees celcius. To start you should be about 30 degrees celcius. There is a plug on the side of the transmission that gets removed to check the fluid level. Somewhere between 35 degC and 45 degC tranny fluid should drip out of this plug. If that happens your level is OK, if you get to 45 degrees C and no fluid, you add until it does come out. VW has a small container with a hose and a wand for adding fluid. The plastic container gets pressurized and the wand has a small valve to admit fluid. Looking at the Bentley manual, it looks like you add through a fill plug and it says to replace seal any time it is removed. They sure do make this process difficult huh? I'll take a simple dipstick any day. I just hope that my level never changes, even though I have Vagcom this still looks like a PITA.
  • vchuckvchuck Posts: 2
    Thanks a bunch for your info. Wow nothing easy about that. Might be the best idea to take it to Volkswagon & have them check it. But thanks for all the time taken to explain it so well and will keep on this info on file.
  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    OK guys, I need the collective wisdom on this one. Belt went on my 1.9L ('02 Jetta). Why I'll leave for another post. What I need know now is what to ask, what to beware of, what to expect if I replace the engine. Car was bought used with 46K. I've done the scheduled maintainance on schedule.
    Particular issues; how do I determine how much of the engine can be salvaged? Use dealer or regular repair shop? Buy engine myself or let mechanic buy? What kind of warranty can I expect?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    You should be able to "salvage" much of the engine. It is likely that the HEAD and everything in it (valves) are junk. Also expect to have some damaged pistons.

    You really need to do some research on this. Installing another engine *may* be more cost effective given all the labor of rebuilding the engine might entail.

    Here is a link to a place that sells TDI ENGINES

    OK--- now PLEASE tell us why the timing belt would break at such a low milage.
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