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Chevy Vans: Problems & Solutions



  • asvaasva Posts: 1
    I have 97 chevy Venture Long body(LS). I noticed following problem over time:
    1: Door switches of both sides(Driver,s and Passenger side) for windows and door locks quits frequently. I paid heavy cost of $350 to replace them.
    2. Now A/C quits on me suddenly. It was working alright and stopped working suddenly. I showed to mechanic who is asking for More than $1000 for replacement of compressor, filter/dryer and charging the system.
    3. I have noticed some Oil deposits in Antifreeze overflow bottle. Also antifreeze need refilling frequently as I see dripping of some kind of liquid from engine to floor under the engine. I checked with Couple of Mechanics who advised me to report to GM or one of their dealers for fixing up of this manufacturing defect free of charge. Is it correct view of mechanics.

    I need to know the procedure for replacement of Compressor and dryer as per workshop service manual.

    I will appreciate for the help.

    Thanks and best regards

    Ahmad Awan
  • garryshafgarryshaf Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Chevy Astro. My wife was in a rain storm last week and the wipers stopped while the switch was on. This has been happening more often over the last few months. I have the van in for repair. They want $400+ to replace the wiper motor unit. Before I let them proceed, does anyone have any experience or advice regarding the malfunction? Is there a smaller component that should be looked at?Is it easy enough to replace by oneself? Garry
  • nomaddienomaddie Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy Astro Van... and I hear a humming in the rear end.. I think it might be the differential... Can anyone tell me about that, or what it would cost to get it fixed? Thanks
  • jw75jw75 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 chevy astro van , and my head lights along with the tail lights stay on unless I over ride them with the switch but then I have no day time running lights , could it be the sensor on top of the dash? :)
  • my 91 Chev. Van heater fan quit working on settings 1-2-3 but 4 worked fine. Until this summer when i needed the AC 4 quit working. i tried to find the fan so i could remove the module, but i cant find the fan. got any diagrams. or suggestions?
  • cbonsellcbonsell Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. There was a recall on the circuit board that the wires for the wiper attach to. I took it to the dealer when I got the recall notice. It was a quick replacement. I heard it was bad solder joints on the circuit board. I would question the dealer about the recall. I know the recall was also on the Chevy trucks. Hope this helps.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    Problem is wiring in door hinge area. Wires get old an brake. Suggest running new wires thur that area.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    GM recalled 1.5 million trucks from 95-98 with faulting wiper motor. GM recall covered cost of replacement. Unfortually I had all ready replaced it myself to 67.00. GM did reimbust me for the cost not my labor.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    GM Astro' s GMC are common. Heavy truck with all weight forward. Everyone know's they eat tires. I replace 2 tires every 18 months. I've replaced 6 tires on my 2000. GM weight problem ( design) can be reamdied by replace front end componets with Moog parts. You will pay more for them, but its worth it.
    Idler arms run $40.00 for Mug. You will need 2. Those factory ones are junk. I can say after problems with my 97 and 2000 GM's They will be the last ones I'll ever purchase.
  • eenaefeenaef Posts: 3
    Found the problem. Problem started to get a lot worse, stalling while driving even. I was looking at what it would take to replace fuel pump because several people (including Mr. Good (Bad) Wrench) telling me I had a bad pump ($289.00). Directly behind driver seat there is a connector that connects wiring harness from inside van to outside. This feeds several things including fuel pump. I unplugged connector (from under van) and got a face full of water. After looking for a while found the connector inside floor board sits in a little depression so any water/drinks the rug rats spill behind driver seat collects here and eventually gets into connector. (had to take side panel and driver seat out to pull carpet up) I blame the kids but it most likely is the loose rivets that the connector is attached to the floor with allows water to splash up from front tire and seep in around the inadequate gasket. When I found it I had about a 1/4" of water sitting on top of connector. I drilled out rivets cleaned connector w/ contact cleaner and dried everything with hair dryer. Disposed of flattened out foam gasket and reassembled w/ electrical grade silicone sealant. No water can get to connector now from above or below. After letting cure over night it started w/ no problem at all and has run perfectly. That was 10 days ago and problem is gone, in fact the van feels like it has a little more power too. It would have been interesting to see fuel pressure before and after this fix but I could not locate ports to hook gauge too.

    Another interesting thing, in this web site there are a lot of complaints about driver's window not working, mine also had not been working right (some times not going down some times not going up). GM here too said bad switch $79.00. Well I have not had any more problems with that either since this fix to fuel pump connector...related??? I think so because I didn't do anything to window switch, even though this circuit shouldn't have anything to do w/ windows it seems to have fixed it as well. So total cost of repair 3.99 tube of silicone and 2 rivets... sure beats the $289 + $79 I was getting ready to shell out for nothing. Best luck to all, van is running great again no more complaints. :) :) :) :)
  • tonyodetonyode Posts: 1
    Recently, my blower fan will not work when it is put on setting 1 or 2. But it will work on 3,4 and 5. On 1 or 2, nothing is blowing out of the vent, although my AC light stays lit. Anyone have this problem, and if so.....any idea's on how to fix it or what to look for? I have checked fuses and all look ok. Any help would be great.
    Also, my ABS light comes on periodically? How do you fix this?
    I have also, very slowly over time, been losing coolant. I have had it checked, and there is no coolant in the oil, as the intake gasket is a common problem with these engines as I have read. I noticed some coolant recently around the thermostate housing. Possibly a leak there?
    Other then these issue's, with 60K miles, I have not had to put a dime into this vehicle and have been very pleased......knock on wood!
    Thanks for any info.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    Would really like to thank the guy who mentioned the 1/8 tube. Spend 3 hrs in 90°F heat looking for problem. Came on the site and said, Hey it now makes sense. $3.88 tube and was back in business. Damn dog house takes to forever to remove and replace. No more vans after this one.
  • jbugjbug Posts: 1
    I love my 2000 Venture but my mechanic must think I'm nuts. There is this "hum" coming from somewhere near the dash area but it is intermittent. It can do it at a cold start or a warm start. If it is doing it, you can hear it stopped at a stop sign or doing 65mph. It sounds like a small fan running but it is not the ac fan, or the engine cooling fan. The rest of the family hears it too. Sometimes it's louder than others. But it never seems to do it for my mechanic. ANY IDEAS??? :confuse: ">
  • metwometwo Posts: 1
    once about every 1000 miles
    the entire cluster will fall off then bounse back up
    --speedometer ==all gauges drop but no power loss on van--
    this is only a year old van with 14000 miles
    --dealership says they cant find problem--
    says gm doesnt know what to do
    has anyone ever heard of this--
    need help with this one
  • cheeze74cheeze74 Posts: 30
    Your problem with your blower is more than likely the control board for the blower. I have a 98 venture with the same problem and replaced the board which is mounted on the passenger side way up toward the floorboard. The original board had small "resistors" mounted on it that burned up. The replacement board was made much heavier. I expect that this common failure caused G.M. to make a better board to do the job. I paid roughly $30.00 for the board at the dealer.
    As far as the coolant problem. I too had experienced the coolant level dropping slightly over a month or so. I re-filled it several times only to find it dropping again. After pressure testing the system I found a slow leak at the base of the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. I replaced the gasket myself, which was not a fun job but a learning experience. I feel that the leak was mainly from the ATV sealant at the base of the manifold and that the gaskets themselves were okay. I spent about $100.00 for the parts to do the job which I also decided to replace the spark plugs and o-ring on the distributor cap while in there doing the job.
  • cheeze74cheeze74 Posts: 30
    your speed control board which is mounted inside the blower compartment on the passenger side, is more than likely the problem. It is way up under the passenger side and fun to get to. It cost about $30.00 for a new board from the dealer.
  • kzevenakzevena Posts: 1
    Does this module also control the rear blower settings? I am having the same problem but the problem is with both the front and rear fan control...
  • rvalliervallie Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Chevy Venture LS and the A/C is leaking on the inside on the drivers side floor only. I have had the van on a rack and the water is draining out of the firewall but it appears that an elbow is missing from the drain line. Checked with a mechanic who said some vehicles have an elbow fitting at the firewall to direct the water downward. He stated that while driving, the water is blown back inside the firewall instead of dripping out because no elbow. My question is, if an elbow is needed, where do i purchase one? Also, does this make any sense?

  • noprshur2noprshur2 Posts: 1
    I've got a 95' Chevy Astro 4.3 liter, V-6. I have no exterior or interior lights. I also have no horn and no dash lights. Each time I take the key out of the ignition, the clock will reset to 12 o'clock. The hazard lights, turn signals, and dash gauges all work. I had the battery tested, and the test indicated that the battery was good.

    What started it all was; I got into my van at night time, started the van and turned on my headlights, well when I turned on the head lights the engine acted like it wanted to cut off by bogging down, but it did not cut off, it just hesitated and continued to idle like normal. I then turned off the engine, and tried to restart the van, but the engine just turned over and over and never cranked back up. Does anyone have a clue to what the problem might be? Thanks in advance for your replies.

  • suthngalsuthngal Posts: 1
    Our 2000 astro van had same symptoms. Problem was a blocked vacuum hose. Had vacuum hose replaced--problem solved.
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