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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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  • The cam position sensor on your car is at the top left as you face the car with the hood open. On the passenger side right next to the air filter box. You need to take off the cover over the spark plugs and the plastic cover that shrouds the top of the timing belt and the two cam shaft sprockets. After the cover to the spark plugs is removed move to the passenger side of the car and face belt end of the engine. You may want to remove the air filter box as well for room.

    There is a thin wire that comes from behind the engine just to the left of the PCV valve hose (as you face the car from the front). That wire goes to the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. It runs under the cover on top of the spark plugs. That cover comes off when you remove the two allen nuts.

    Follow the wire. The CMP is located between the camshaft sprockets. Unplug the wire to the CMP. To remove the CMP, remove the sensor retaining bolt (it's a torx) and LOOSEN the stud bolt. You will see that the CMP sensor bracket slips between the stud bolt and the upper rear timing belt cover. Replace CMP and hook it all back up. It is a pretty easy job.
  • Are you sure the sprockets are on the correct cams?

    Make sure the slot on the back side of the sprocket is aligned with the guide pin on the end of the cam; the intake and exhaust sprockets are the same, but the intake slot or exhaust slot must be aligned with the pin, depending on which cam sprocket is being installed.

    Then, when the number one piston is at TDC, the cam sprocket marks should align with the cooresponding stationary marks on the rear timing cover.

    I do know that the marks on the sprockets do line up when the engine is at TDC. I marked the sprockets with a sharpie before I took them off. On my car, I'm pretty sure, the exhaust sprocket was the one the right with the auslass/exhaust mark lined up with the mark on the other sprocket being just a mark without any words by it.

    I just pried the cover over to look at the timing marks on my car. It looks that way. Raised section reading auslass/exhaust on the right sprocket with that mark cooresponding to a lone mark on the left sprocket.

    If I didn't help. Another suggestion is to maybe see if you can find a car like yours at a local junk yard and take a look. That won't cost anything but time.
  • The thermostat may be faulty and not letting your car warm up as fast as it should, and the transmission fluid may be low (check it when the engine is hot on a level surface). When the tranny fluid is low it is contracted and may expand to a level that gets it shifting properly after it has a chance to heat up.
  • Hi Rusty,
    I'm also in Oz, Melbourne. Unfortunately no luck yet although a mechanic I was speaking to though that I should drain the oil via the inspection plate under the diff and he thought there was a fill plug hidden somewhere near the exit of the right hand drive shaft/CV joint.

    The car is with my sister at the moment so I cannot check this.

    my email is: cureton

    @dcureton.com

    join that together and drop me a line and i email you directly if I find anything as well as this forum.

    Cheers,
    David
  • esperoespero Posts: 7
    i would check the servo hose from the break servo to the inlet manifold as a split in this pipe will cause the problems you have. ;)
  • esperoespero Posts: 7
    GM say that the cam belt should be renewed at 36k miles but thats on standard belt if you get a performance belt they will last up 60kmiles but bear in mind that in the daweoo cars they used vauxhall engines which where brittish never had a cam belt snap but they do tend to slip off if the tensioners ware to much or the water pump fails but a snaping belt is down to a faulty belt but yea the damage would be big bent valve at best at worst shagged engine.
  • shaly2shaly2 Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 Daewoo Lanos. I get terrible gas mileage. I have been told that if I change the fuel filter this will help. I bought a filter but do not know where it goes. Can you help me.?
  • Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • shaly2shaly2 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Daewoo Lanos
    I have purchased a fuel filter for my car and need to know where it is located to replace it. I hope that this will increase the gas mileage. Please help me if you can
  • I have a 2001 Leganza, 90,000 miles. I've hardly had any problems with my car until now.

    Sometimes, when I come to a stop, the car idles bad and acts like it wants to die. If I put it in neutral and rev it up, it's okay until I am ready to go into drive again. It doesn't do this all the time. Seems to do it the most when I first start the car and drive when the car's cold. I finally figured out if I let it warm up so the temperature guage moves almost to the half line, it won't do it as much. I drive downtown in a lot of stop and go traffic and that's when it's the worse. Once I get on the interstate and drive for a distance and get off at a stop light, it doesn't do it anymore. Also, the check engine light was on.

    I took the car to Express Oil thinking I needed a tune-up. The guy told me he didn't think it needed a tune-up and to let him hook it to the computer and see what it says. The computer said the gas cap was loose. We tightened the gas cap. Computer said needed a temperature coolant sensor. Ordered the part, took 3 wks to come in. Put part on, still didn't fix the problem. Took it back the next day, the guy cleaned out the throttle bottle. Still didn't fix the problem. It costs me $70 so far.

    Took car to another place and got a mechanic that used to work for Daewoo working on it. Did a diagnostic and said it was showing EGR Valve was messed up. They drove my car for two days and they could not get it to act up and do for them what it's been doing for me. Said they couldn't check the EGR Valve to see if it was defective unless the car was messing up. He didn't want to replace the EGR Valve since it costs $225 in case that's not what's wrong w/it.

    My husband told him to change the spark plug wires, he did. Also, the mechanic cleaned some valve behind the throttle that needs to get cleaned along w/the throttle bottle which Express Oil didn't clean. Cost me $159.

    Took my car home, runs great, but two days later....starts the same thing again. Called the mechanic this a.m., said they can't do anything until the car will do for them what it does with me. Said the EGR Valve will eventually go out and the car will run worse. Only way to know if it's the EGR Valve is to let the car get to the point that it runs bad all the time, not just sometimes. Help...anyone heard of this or had this happen to their car? My car's been great thus far.

    Thanks for any help you can give.
  • Correction: husband told him to change spark plugs...not spark plugs "wires"...sorry.
  • shak01shak01 Posts: 4
    Timing Belt...Timing Belt...Timing Belt...Do not Delay....Buy Today!!! Otherwise Darn good Engine...same as Isuzu/GM X22SE
  • shak01shak01 Posts: 4
    When the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the mark on the rear cover (6 o'clock position) and the number one cylinder is at top dead center, and the cams are aligned with their respective marks...how do you know whether the number one cylinder is at TDC on the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke?
  • shak01shak01 Posts: 4
    Hi...read your posts on the Edmunds site...my timing belt broke at 85,000...got the head off...4 bent intake valves on cylinder #1 and #3. Looking for valves, head gasket SET w/valve seals, water pump, tensioner, roller guides, etc. As you've said, everything matches up with Isuzu X22SED 2.2L. Have you been able to cross reference part numbers to GM/AC delco numbers? Where is best deal on parts? Thanks Kevin
  • Hey Kevin,

    Woowoes is me too...I bought a complete cylinder head with new valves, etc. ready to bolt on for $400. All the parts you need are available on Ebay with the best prices. You may be able to get parts at a dealer if you want to wait the same amount of time and pay a lot more money. Just go to Ebay motors--parts, and type in what you need. You can get whole gasket sets and timing belt kits. If you can't find something with Daewoo try entering it as an Isuzu part. The firing order from the coil is different from Isuzu though. On the Daewoo it's 1-4-2-3 (1 being the end closest to the fire wall) I just received an alternator I found on Ebay from a guy in NC. It looks like you know what parts to replace. You're gonna have half the engine compartment dissasembled, so replace everything while you're in there. If you don't have one, get an Isuzu Rodeo Haynes manual that covers '89 thru '02. It will have all the torque specs and helps with lining up all the timing marks.

    --Jim in Massachusetts
  • It sounds like your problem is the EGR valve. It stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It's for emissions and opens and closes depending on what the computer tells it and reburns harmful gasses. Because it is directly linked to the exhuast system it can get clogged with carbon deposits. I have taken mine off a few times, cleaned it with carborator cleaner, and had no problems. I have the same car, the EGR valve is very easy to take off. It's a cylinder on the right/top side of the engine, next to the coil (the box with spark plug wires coming out of it). Just remove the two bolts holding it on and unplug the wire bundle from the top. Take it, and move the plunger in and out and spray carb cleaner into it to clean it out. All you'll need to buy is a new EGR valve gasket for when you bolt it back on. Get one from an Isuzu dealer for a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo (same engine). The whole procedure will cost you about $5.00.

    I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
  • It sounds like your problem is the EGR valve. It stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It's for emissions and opens and closes depending on what the computer tells it and reburns harmful gasses. Because it is directly linked to the exhuast system it can get clogged with carbon deposits. I have taken mine off a few times, cleaned it with carborator cleaner, and had no problems. I have the same car, the EGR valve is very easy to take off. It's a cylinder on the right/top side of the engine, next to the coil (the box with spark plug wires coming out of it). Just remove the two bolts holding it on and unplug the wire bundle from the top. Take it, and move the plunger in and out and spray carb cleaner into it to clean it out. All you'll need to buy is a new EGR valve gasket for when you bolt it back on. Get one from an Isuzu dealer for a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo (same engine). The whole procedure will cost you about $5.00.

    I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
  • It sounds like your problem is the EGR valve. It stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. It's for emissions and opens and closes depending on what the computer tells it and reburns harmful gasses. Because it is directly linked to the exhuast system it can get clogged with carbon deposits. I have taken mine off a few times, cleaned it with carborator cleaner, and had no problems. I have the same car, the EGR valve is very easy to take off. It's a cylinder on the right/top side of the engine, next to the coil (the box with spark plug wires coming out of it). Just remove the two bolts holding it on and unplug the wire bundle from the top. Take it, and move the plunger in and out and spray carb cleaner into it to clean it out. All you'll need to buy is a new EGR valve gasket for when you bolt it back on. Get one from an Isuzu dealer for a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo (same engine). The whole procedure will cost you about $5.00.

    I want all to know also... A daewoo is no diferent from any other car. Tell your mechanic -- A CAR IS A CAR IS CAR. The only difference is, it may be a little time delay for parts.
  • You need a compression gauge in the number one cylinder spark plug hole to be positive. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until you see compression buiding up on the gauge - you are on the compression stroke for that cylinder. If you did not see compression build up, continue with one more complete revolution to achieve TDC for the number one cylinder.
  • Thank you so much for your help. I will print this out and give it to my husband. He will be able to do this for me.

    Thank you again!
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