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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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  • brettski1brettski1 Posts: 12
    2000 Leganza CDX. Never had an issue with anything related to the airbags. I allowed an old battery to finally fail. When I replaced the battery, the airbag light is on. I have the factory manuals. As I understand it, when the voltage drops below a certain minimum (10 volts or something like that), the airbag light comes on. Also, as I read the manual, it will not shut off without automatically...even after installing the correct battery power. So, now the light is on. The dealer wants $100 just to use the code reader, find out the reason, and re-set it.....even it was just the low battery. OUCH. Any other ideas? As much as I want to believe that it is only on because of the battery, another part of me doesn't want to find out there was something more serious....right after I needed it to function.
  • joeyacejoeyace Posts: 5
    Thanks so much i appreciate your help...any i deas as far as junkyards that have woos or should i just start calling?
  • markukmarkuk Posts: 1
    Hi can anyone help me with a misfire problem. My Lanos was working fine and after parking on restart was misfiring on two cylinders. Mechanic advised ignition coil faulty. Car would hardly move and needed towing home. Changed the coil and now the car is running again but is misfiring in 2nd and 3rd gear. Will run ok in 4th and 5th at speed but jolts in the lower gears. The coil change clearly resolved the main problem. I've notice a 2 inch split in the air hose between the air filter and engine. Any advice would be helpful. Mark
  • jeschajescha Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Daewoo Lanos that a friend gave to my husband and I. It runs great but we can not get it to pass smog, so therefore, we can't register it. I see that you said you bought a new ECU, so did we because we were told that was probably the prolem, it didn't help. May I ask why you bought a ECU?
  • jeschajescha Posts: 4
    Can anyone offer some insight on a Daewoo that will not pass smog?
  • jeschajescha Posts: 4
    Can you please tell me if you were ever able to get you car to pass smog and what you did to get it to pass smog. We also live in California and have failed twice and they said that maybe we needed a new ECU which we purchased from a junk yard, and it still failed. can you offer any insight????
  • tlibbytlibby Posts: 1
    Timing belt broke on 2002 leganza, i was just leaving a parking spot going maybe 10MPH, would that still cause engine damage?
  • jeschajescha Posts: 4
    I would have to say yes. I know that with the timing belt in my Volswagen they said if it breaks you might as well kiss your engine goodbye. Some cars are really affected by the timing belt. Sorry to hear that.
  • Anyone can tell me where the camshaft sensor is located on the Nubira Stationwagon (2001) ?? thanks
  • I just inherited a 2000 Leganza CDX with about 48,500 miles on it. The oil was changed this past October, the plugs were about 3 or 4 years ago, then my mother died and I am about to go pick it up and drive about 1500 miles. She never went above 65 with it, and I am wondering if there is anything I should get done before I head out, and if there is anything I can do to help it get used to running 75 to 80? (In the way of best performance and fuel mileage.) Also, anyone have an idea of the cost of a new timing belt, or how easy is it to do myself? I used to work on muscle cars, and trucks, farm equipment, etc. until Plymouth came out with their Horizon, and I gave up on changing anything other than spark plugs after my trial by fire with a water pump! SPEAKING OF WHICH!! I was also told the new Iridium plugs would be a good idea to put in before the trip to help it get going, I'm afraid of too much heat, not enough air coming in. Am I right, or are they a good investment or should I look at a cold air intake to help it out if I get them? (WOW! All that in one breath!) :) I really like the car and look forward to keeping it as long as they have parts in a junk yard, and lawnmowers that can maybe swap out plugs and filters with! ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,832
    Up top, front, between the valve covers, under the engine cover, behind the timing case cover.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the engine cover.
    3. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector (comes in from the top)
    4. Remove the timing belt front cover.
    5. Remove the camshaft position sensor bolts.
    6. Remove the camshaft position sensor from the top.

    Install the camshaft position sensor and bolts. Tighten Tighten the camshaft position sensor bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb-in)

    2. Install the timing belt front cover, the crankshaft pulley, the accessory drive belt, and the air filter. Refer to DOHC Engine Mechanical.
    3. Connect the sensor electrical connector.
    4. Install the engine cover.
    5. Connect the negative battery cable.

    MODERATOR

  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Engine damage, probably not,
    valve damage, probably yes.
    The cheapest way to fix, is to logon on ebaymotors and buy a rebuilt head. It costs around $350. The timing belt and tensioners and rollers you can also get from ebay and they are cheap.
    You would also need to get a gasket set (around $30).
    The other option is to disassemble the head and see how many valves are bent, and just replace the valves, more labor intensive, though.
  • I am going to be getting a 2000 Daewoo Leganza. Has anyone heard just how close to 50,000 miles the timing belt should be changed? Also, has anyone heard how the new Iridium spark plugs work in this motor?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    The sensor is located on the top left side of the engine, but to access it you have to remove the timing belt cover.
  • Are there any tricks or special tools needed to replace the timing belt? I am pretty sure the water pump should be r/r'd while I am in there, but what else is involved?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,832
    You'll need a workshop manual to get the illustrations on how to align the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys as described in these instructions.



    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
    3. Disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body.
    4. Remove the resonator retaining bolts and the resonator from the throttle body.
    5. Disconnect the breather tube from the valve cover.

    6. Remove the air filter housing bolts.
    7. Remove the air filter housing.
    8. Remove the right front wheel.
    9. Remove the right front wheel well splash shield.
    10. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump..

    11. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts.
    12. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
    13. Remove the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount; Service and Repair.
    14. Remove the power steering hose clamp bolt, and position the hose clear of the repair area.

    15. Remove the front timing belt cover bolts.
    16. Remove the front timing belt cover.

    17. Using the crankshaft gear bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the notch at the bottom of the rear timing belt cover. Notice: The camshaft gears must align with the notch on the valve cover or damage to the engine could result.

    18. Align the camshaft gears with the notch on the valve cover. Important: Use the intake gear mark for the intake camshaft gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust camshaft gear since both gears are interchangeable.
    19. Loosen the automatic tensioner bolt. Turn the hex key tab to relieve belt tension.

    20. Remove the timing belt.

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

    1. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the notch on the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.

    2. Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears, using the intake gear mark for the intake gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust gear.

    3 Install the timing belt.

    4. Turn the hex-key tab in a counterclockwise direction to tension the belt. Turn until the pointer aligns with the notch.
    5. Install the automatic tensioner bolt. Tighten Tighten the timing belt automatic tensioner bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
    6. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise using the crankshaft gear bolt.
    7. Recheck the automatic tensioner pointer.
    8. Install the front timing belt cover.

    9. Install the front timing belt cover bolts. Tighten Tighten the front timing belt cover bolts to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    10. Install the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mounts; Service and Repair.
    11. Position the power steering hose in place and install the clamp bolt. Tighten Tighten the power steering hose clamp bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    12. Install the crankshaft pulley.

    13. Install the crankshaft pulley bolts. Tighten Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
    14. Install the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump.
    15. Install the right front wheel well splash shield.
    16. Install the right front wheel.
    17. Install the air filter housing.
    18. Install the air filter housing bolts. Tighten Tighten the air filter housing bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    19. Install the resonator and the retaining bolts. Tighten Tighten the resonator retaining bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
    20. Connect the air intake tube to the throttle body.
    21. Connect the breather tube to the valve cover.
    22. Connect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
    23. Connect the negative battery cable.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks will look there, and unless anyone else has a suggestion as to why the transmission should suddenly not want to engage...I will try what I can
    '
  • gunjapapigunjapapi Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    I have a 1996 model Daewoo Cielo. The problem is that after a few minutes of driving, the engine indicator light starts blinking and the engine stops and starts as the light blinks.It had a major service just a few weeks back in which the techs replaced the gasket. I am not sure whats going on.
    Please help. truly desperate.

    Best Regards,
    G.Papi
  • Need to know how to prime the cylinder head lifters with oil ,the cramshaft torque bearings specifications and cylinder head bolts torque specifications
  • hangul111hangul111 Posts: 2
    Sensor is on the brake. Check to see if your brake lights are working if not repair brakes. If brakes are repaired and condition persists replace switch.
  • hangul111hangul111 Posts: 2
    Okay the core itself is leaking. I pulled the hoses checked for cracks or deterioration of the rubber and both were good. With the hoses in place you can move them and water runs down the firewall.

    So does anyone know how to remove the dash, then the plastic covers to get to the heater core? Also does anyone have a source for a good repair manual? I have a Chiltons for import vehicles, but it is not comprehensive enough.

    Thanks for any help
  • I just inherited a 2000 Daewoo Leganza with the remote built onto the key. It only has the one key and I don't want to find out what happens when that battery dies without a spare and / or a spare remote.

    Any ideas?
  • sherry123sherry123 Posts: 15
    Tinkerman, I don't think you are going to like my reply. I discovered the Daewoo key is rather unique apparently. Not every former dealer carries these keys however. My former Daewoo dealer does sell the keys. If you want another remote, you are really best off to go after market.
    My remote key actually broke in half. Thank the Lord it didn't break off in the ignition. I ordered spare keys and open the doors with the remote and start with one of the spares.
    You can't just order a remote, even with the key code. Someone has to reset this when you purchase a new remote which takes about an hour.
    If you want further information regarding Daewoo keys, you can contact C&O Motors 304 727 2921
  • sherry123sherry123 Posts: 15
    5 years or 50k which ever comes first. Trust me. You don't want that timing belt to break. IF you have any doubt at all replace it. I replaced mine at 35000 miles because it was 5 years.
  • Where might I ask is the remote available, or did you have it all replaced?
    Also, may I ask where C&O Motors might be located since I have to drive from Florida to PA?
    THANKS! ;-) :)
  • Oh, I forgot to ask, how is your mpg's? My mother's only got about 18, but she never used the power and she puttered it for 5 years or more!
    I hope with the new timing belt, plugs, and wires and a good injector cleaner it will clear up after the long highway drive at 75 - 80! :surprise:
  • sherry123sherry123 Posts: 15
    C&O Motors a/k/a Love Toyota is 10 miles from Charleston on I64. If you go, email me at sherrmorr@aol.com and I can give specific instructions.
    As for the mpg, I got around 30-32 on the interstate. Obviously, city driving drops that way down. Where I live there is a traffic light every thousand yards whether we need one or not,.,...
    My sympathies to you for the loss of your mom.
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    Ok basically my lanos 1.6L will not fire up. The fuel pump works, New Fuel Filter, New spark plugs and their all firing, I took each plug out one by one to make sure each one was giving out spark. They all checked ok.

    I plugged in the Scan Tool and the only code I get is a P0452 EVAP low.

    How do I fix that?

    And will this keep the car from starting?

    Also the Scan tool says 3Ready: Misfire/Fuel/Comp. Which I think has to do with the car not starting. ?not sure.

    Thanks..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,832
    probably a bad fuel tank pressure sensor, bad wiring to the connector, bad wiring in the PCM circuit or a bad PCM module:

    Here's some ideas:

    System Description
    The evaporative emission (EVAP) system includes the following components:

    * Fuel tank.
    * EVAP vent solenoid.
    * Fuel tank pressure sensor.
    * Fuel pipes and hoses.
    * Fuel vapor lines.
    * Fuel cap.
    * EVAP canister.
    * Purge lines.
    * EVAP canister purge valve.
    * EVAP service port.

    The EVAP system is checked by applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring for a vacuum decay. The powertrain control module (PCM)/engine control module (ECM) monitors the vacuum level through the fuel tank pressure sensor signal.

    At the appropriate time, the EVAP canister purge valve and the EVAP vent solenoid are turned ON, allowing the engine to draw a small vacuum on the entire EVAP system. After the desired vacuum level has been achieved, the EVAP canister purge valve is turned OFF, sealing the system.

    The PCM/ECM supplies a 5 v reference signal and a ground to the Fuel Tank Pressure sensor. The fuel tank pressure sensor sends a voltage signal back to the PCM/ECM relative to the fuel tank pressure. The voltage signal will vary from 0.2 v to 4.8 v.

    Conditions for Setting the DTC

    * Output is less than 0.1 volts (5 A/D counts)
    * Ignition ON.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets

    * The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate on the second consecutive drive trip that the diagnostic runs and fails.
    * The PCM/ECM will record operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records buffers.
    * A history Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored.

    Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

    * The MIL will turn off after three consecutive ignition cycles in which the diagnostic runs without a fault.
    * A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles without a fault.
    * DTC(s) can be cleared by using a scan tool.

    MODERATOR

  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    So in other words the EVAP isn't the problem. The most likely reason it was tripped was due to me dry testing the Fuel Pump. Since The EVAP works at a desired pressure the code will not clear until three consecutive ignition cycles engine running.

    I know there was a recall on the CMP sensor( Cam Position Sensor) for my year and model but it was replaced and the engine was running fine afterwords. Secondly if it was at fault a code should have popped up.

    So the only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.

    What do you guys think?

    The Good:

    Spark
    Fuel
    Comp
    Intake
    Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
    Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
    Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
    All Fuses and Relays working properly.
    New Fuel Filter
    New Spark Plugs

    The Bad:

    No Start :mad:
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