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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,711
    Ah, okay. I remember on older German cars they didn't allow you more than a couple of tries. Once you got locked out, you were *really* locked out.

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  • ae6bzae6bz Posts: 2
    Unfortunately your engine is shot. A lot of owners learn about the timing belt the hard way. It should be replaced every 40,000 miles. you can pick up a used engine for about $900 from salvage yard. The timing belt can be checked in the following manner; remove head cover, remove spark plugs. This allows you to see a portion of the belt between the two cam's. Have someone rotate the engine with the starter while observing the belt pass over the cams
  • ae6bzae6bz Posts: 2
    Manual Clutch safety switch malfunctioned at 120,000 miles, engine would not start. Switch is white, and located under the clutch pedal arm. A new OEM switch is about $10.00 plus shipping. The switch rotates 90 degrees to remove. I was able to disassemble the switch, and re-solder it, now works fine.
  • donicedonice Posts: 1
    Can anyone help this car part novice?

    I need a replacement part for my 2000 Daewoo Lanos but can't seem to find out what the correct part name is. I got a couple of names (from mechanics no less) i.e charcoal vapor canister, EVAC Canister, and EVAP Canister, but when I searched parts dealers with these names I either got no results or got parts with pictures that look nothing like what's on my car. I did (quite by accident) find a part called a vapor canister solenoid, and the picture does look a lot like the part on my car. To be sure though I hope someone can help me so I don't order the wrong part.

    The best description I can give of the part is that it's a "rectangular canister mounted on the right rear chassis next to my gas tank". The metal strap that held it in place broke and the canister was destroyed when it got dragged over the road surface. Since this is giving me an emissions code my vehicle won't pass NYS Inspection due 07/30/11 so it's imperative that I find and replace the part.

    Hoping for an answer, Donice
  • Donice:

    This part is an EVAPORATION CANISTER. In my Leganza factory manual, it is called "EVAP canister". This part may be really hard to find, new.

    I suggest you get one from a salvage yard and put in on yourself or have a mechanic do it. You may have to search nationwide for a salvage yard that still has your particular car in their inventory.

    Solenoids for this canister are found on the internet.

    An evaporation canister has charcoal particles in it that absorb fumes from the gasoline to keep them from going into the atmosphere. These fumes are held in the cannister until the computer commands the solenoid to let them into the engine.

    After you install the replacement canister, you should check the hoses to make sure they were not damaged during the dragging on the road surface.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,711
    Evaporative Emission Control Canister / part # 17098140 / dealer list price $166.

    It's a box that installs on a slide and has hoses attached to it.

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  • I have 2 woos. #1 is d.o.a at the dealership. timing belt issue. loud knock and wont start. Its a 01 leganza LOADED! everything worked. #2 Is a new purchase 01 nubira with 54,ooo mi. (got it for $2,800). From what i understand the engine block on the 2.2 is 1/2 inch taller in the deceased leganza. My question is; are the starter,alt., tranny, and other parts interchangable? and where may i find a suitable mechanics manual or guide to do my repairs? I will be doing the timing belt in the nubira soooooon.
  • My 2001 Nubira has 72K miles on it. I had the timing belt, water pump kit replaced 4 years ago. Two days ago, I started the engine and it sounded like a dryer with a few loose tennis shoes. I drove very slowly 1/4 mile to Advance Auto Parts. The fellow there gave it a listen and said it sounded like the timing belt! grrrr.
    Turns out my water pump was falling apart. He said the fact that the motor was running was an indication the belt had not yet broken. Because the pump sits on top of the belt, it was putting pressure on the belt. Since I was already in there, and planned on replacing the belt next year anyway, I sprung for the whole thing. I recommend getting those things changed out at 35k if you don't drive a lot. Thankfully I had no engine damage (so far. it's in the shop as I write this). Engines for Nubiras are $1100 for those under 50K miles.
  • does anyone know what modifications i can do to my '97 nubira engine to make it go faster, or does anyone know if it is possible to convert it to rear wheel drive? Car details: 1997 Daewoo Nubira Eurowagon 1.6 liter :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,711
    Not much you can do except turbocharge it. A RWD conversion would be hideously expensive and very tricky technically. I wouldn't recommend even thinking about it.

    Basically, if you have a car that's not high in resale value, and you want a car that goes faster, the best thing to do is go out and buy yourself a faster car. You're much better off in the long run, because a) once you start modifying a car you can run up more expense that you planned and b) the modified car is often worth less than the stock one.

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  • I'm changing the timing belt on my 99 Daewoo Lanos, and have everything in place, but when I wind the pulleys, the belt gradually slips off. To me, this suggests at least one of the pulleys is at an angle pushing the belt off. All the pulleys are fastened down tight. The tensioner is attached to the coolant pump, I was able to get the belt on without adjusting this, by removing one of the other pulleys, then using that pulley as the tensioner, as a mechanic friend of mine said if you move the coolant pump, it's likely to rupture the seal. I did as he suggested, and remove a different pulley. Everything's back in place, the car even fires up, but within seconds, you can hear the edge of the belt rub against the plastic cover.

    Any ideas how to correct this?

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • Mark:

    Having changed many timing belts, although my car is a Leganza, I would suggest this:

    When changing any timing belt, replace all pulleys, tensioner and water pump.

    Make sure new pulleys are not narrower than the belt. (I have purchased kits which had a narrow pulley that would ruin a new belt, fast).

    I'm thinking that at least one of these items has worn bearings which cause it to run out of line.

    These parts can be expensive, but so are new valves, when the belt goes.

    Sometimes, I find a reasonable price on the internet and then take a printout to auto parts stores until I find one that will match the price.

    Hope this helps you. Jim.
  • Hay Mark : I am working on a Lagonza can you tell me which cam belt gear goes in front and which goes to the back . I had a valve job done and now I cant get the car running . I think the cams were put back in the head the wrong way.. I put a new belt and tentioner kit on mine and the idler pullies had a lip on both one going outward and the other inward esentially guidding the belt . that was my origional problem one of the pully bearings failed and tore the belt up
  • were did u get the plug for behind the water pump
  • i had one at the shop, but any nut and bolt supply should have a stainless steel one.
  • adzbatcheloradzbatchelor Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Hi i Have a Daewoo Lanos it is Manual. my car runs perfectly for about 5-10 minutes, then it starts chugging like its goin to stall and when i press the pedal drive there is no power it sounds loike there is a blocked exhaust.. i went to get it repaired so they changed my fuel pump and also cadilac converter. i did not fix my problem, someone said it maybe running on 2 cylenders at times and is not burning the fuel that it dumps causing the loss of power.at night when i does it i continue to chug home when i look under the car the converter is red hot.Please can somebody help.
  • If your car is misfiring, your check engine light should be on. A scanner should tell you which cylinder(s) it is.

    The problem should have been diagnosed and fixed before driving with a new converter.

    A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.

    A fuel pressure test should have been made before changing the fuel pump. It is a simple test and all mechanics should be able to do it.

    There may be more than one code (problem) registered in the computer. Have it scanned for clues to the problem before making any more expensive repairs.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    The problem should have been diagnosed and fixed before driving with a new converter.

    A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.


    Daewoocrazys right on both. When a cylinder misfires, the unburnt fuel is dumped into the exhaust, then on to the catalytic converter. Once there, it burns, raising the temperature of the cat and ruining it. And it doesn't take long for that to happen.

    I'm really surprised his CEL (check engine light) wasn't on.
  • Hello, I recently inherited a 2002 Daewoo Leganza with 110K miles. I am seeking advice on parts suppliers and also reputable mechanics (if any). I live in the Raleigh, NC area. I have a feeling that the car needs a new CV joint on the driver side, and I would like to have the timing belt inspected. Thanks for any help/guidance with this.
  • skamerskamer Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
    I have a phone # that might help with parts. I called it to find out about a recall to see if my car had been serviced. He told me that they have every part you would need from the inside interior to the outside. Moters and all. The # is 1-877-362-1234 or -310-884-3364 Hope this helps.
  • skamerskamer Posts: 2
    I just had my air compressor and cooling fan replaced. Drove it to work the next day (about 5 miles) left work and got 2 block down the road, and it just died on me. It wouldn't start back up. It was cranking over fine. Poped the hood and there was oil coming out of the top of motor on the right side by the spark plugs. There was no oil on my motor before i took it to be fixed. What all do you need to remove in order to get to the air compressor. Any idea's for me. Please.
  • I read here: link title

    ....that all daewoo models are not compatible at all with ethanol based fuel. Is that so? What are my fuel options for a 1995 Daewoo ceilo? Will the ethanol e.g. E10 harm the engine?
  • I have a 2000 Leganza and have had the radiator checked, replaced the thermostat and the housing. I can sit in the driveway for hours and it runs great, I put in in drive go 1-2 miles and it overheats. I replaced the engine when the other one blew at 79K, this one has 49K on it. I drove it over 250 miles then it decided to start overheating! What is wrong?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,711
    I think that info is correct---Daewoo GM doesn't recommend e10.

    See here:

    http://www.onlinemechanical.net/ethanol-E10.html

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  • yesididyesidid Posts: 2
    My 2000 Leganza with only 49,000 has been running great since getting head gasket job. Timing belt was checked and is new. Summer is here and have been running ac and all is well, but I noticed when trying to conserve gas and not use A.C. at night - car still seem extrememly hot, warm air coming thorugh vents. A "frilend" pushed the button next to green a.c. switch to make it cooler - and it did. But that evening as I backed out of parking space, and turned headlights on, all the lights on dash lit up and car cut off. And all the gauiges went crazy, gas read full, temp. sky high, etc. - but actually gas was only 1/4 tank and enging wasn't hot. Water and oil, etc. all checked ok levels. Car crank and drove a few times more, but after acouple of days, lights wouldn't come on and car began losing power and all those lights on dash came on, gauges crazy, etc. Now, it only turns over, won't completly start. Oh, and before that when it did start after sitting awhile, engine sounded great, but when I put foot on brake or put in reverse it cuts off. I have no idea and am still paying for the head gasket job. I have been catching buses for 7 years and finally got a car. Yes, I know...I actually bought this daewoo. Oh, and when I first got it, I had no brake lights so I had to replace the thing under the brake pedal. Do you think any of this is related? My roomate says he thinks it is the fuel pump or the relay/safety cutoff switch. Any clues? Very mluch appreciated. I just don't want to start buying and replacing parts using the method of elimination to figure out problem. Should I take it in for and pay the $75.00 diagnostic fee and go from there? It all seems so vague. Oh, and I'm bad about running with less than a quarter tank of gas and on "E" too long and one guy said that could have caused it?
  • I would have the alternator checked by a competent mechanic (not auto parts store). I would do this, first.

    If someone in your area has the scan-100 Daewoo tool, I would have it diagnosed. This tool can also reset your idle air control valve. (Shutting down when going into reverse sounds like a problem with this control valve and it could also need cleaning, along with the throttle body). This is what I use on my Leganza and it makes a lot of difference.

    Your Leganza has an idle learn procedure, which I think might have been given before in this forum. I is very important anytime power is disconnected.

    These problems are not happening just because it is a Daewoo. Modern engine controls are just quite complicated and require a competent mechanic.

    I will follow this site for a while in case you post again.
  • sounds like you have a bad heater core. thats the only reason why u would have coolent coming in the car.normally located behind the dash on passenger side.
  • raywooraywoo Posts: 16
    Was looking for suggestions on what to check for an A/C problem in a 2000 Daewoo Lanos.
    I have added R134A freon and brought the pressure reading into the 'Blue' good range.
    I press the 'A/C' button on the dashboard and the green light comes on, but the A/C compressor clutch does not engage.
    I have metered the plug to the clutch and it does not have 12volts present when the A/C switch is on.
    I also thought one or both of the engine fans comes on when you turn on the A/C switch, but I may be wrong about that.
    I am thinking maybe its a pressure switch, but I did add the freon and it shows is has the right pressure. How can I test the pressure switches?

    Any help appreciated.

    Thanks. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,711
    Well if you can find the pressure transducer (should be near the shock tower?) and you could pull out the connector and use a jumper wire (thus bypassing the transducer's effect), that might tell you something. I don't have a wiring diagram for that car so I can't tell you how to safely use the jump wire. if you're familiar with using a volt/ohm meter, you should be able to figure this out.

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  • itsmechris66itsmechris66 Posts: 2
    edited October 2012
    I have a 2002 Leganza CDX that snapped the timing belt and destroyed the engine. I put an engine from a 2000 Leganza SE in it. Only problem is that since the swap I get EGR flow insufficient codes that come in and clear. I have replaced the valve/sensor assembly with the one from the old car, cleaned all the passages and still the MIL comes on. Could this be a ECU program issue? Will the ECU from the 2000 work in the 2002? Any help would be greatly appreciated since emissions test is coming due.
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