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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    I took some advice from a friend to use carb cleaner to see if the motor will start and surprisingly it did. But obviously it died out after I stopped spraying.

    So what does this tell me? That the timing is in fact ok? or could it be clogged Inj or bad FPR?

    IMO It seems that there isn't enough fuel getting to the motor. What yall think.

    The motor sounds good when it was running on Carb cleaner.
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    Just to update I changed the Injectors, FPR, and another CMP sensor for the hell of it.

    Still no start.

    Wow I changed just about every single part on this car and it still will not start. I've never experienced this in my entire life no wonder they no longer make these cars. :cry:

    OK All parts changed and checked as of today:

    Spark
    Fuel
    Comp
    Intake
    Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
    Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
    Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
    All Fuses and Relays working properly.
    New Fuel Filter
    New Spark Plugs
    New Injectors
    New FPR
    New CMP
    And
    It will not Fire up.


    Anyone out there please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    Well I finally narrowed it down it's definitely the fuel pump or related.

    The pump turns on but theirs no fuel coming out. Brand new pump with a half tank full of gas. lol this is the weirdest thing.

    Why would the pump cycle but no fuel coming out?

    PLEASE SOMEONE ANYONE HELP ME!!
  • raywooraywoo Posts: 16
    I found the key blanks for sale on ebay for my daewoo lanos, bought the blanks and then just brought them to a locksmith to cut.
  • markcintxmarkcintx Posts: 3
    I have a problem with my 2000 Lanos. It seems to have started with my disconnecting the O2 sensor w/o disconnecting the battery, I did this when I went to replace the spark plugs due to starting difficulties. When I went to fire it up afterwards, I had nothing; no dings, bells, buzzes, nothing. I popped the hood, made sure the sensor was connected (just looked, didn't touch) and tried again and this time the cart started up okay. Took it to get inspected and it failed due to both O2 sensors reading as "Not Ready" along with the Catalyst, Evap, and EGR. Sooooo, I replaced the O2 sensor at the engine block, added some Sea Foam to the tank and filled it up. My wife took the car out and it began bogging down on her. She would step on the gas and all that would happen is that the engine would seem to lose power. Sooooo, spent another $280 and replaced both O2 Sensors and the EGR. Nothing changed. Took it to a very reputable repair shop and they diagnosed the Fuel pump as being the culprit. Replaced the fuel pump...same result. Check engine light came on and reported the very specific code P0300 (Random cylinder misfire), two days later, it registered P0301 (Cylinder 1 misfire). Had all error codes cleared from the system (at least that is what Autozone said it did), took it back to get reinspected an received the same exact failures!! Could someone help me determine what actually needs to be fixed? The shop that determined the fuel filter needed to be replaced said the ECM may need to be reset and that it may just need to be driven (about 500 miles) to do that. Is this correct?

    Here is what has been replaced/repaired so far:

    Spark plugs
    Fuel filter
    O2 Sensor (Engine block)
    EGR
    O2 Sensor (Catalytic Converter)
    Fuel Pump
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    Just a quick update. I checked the power at the pump while cranking it's receiving 11.9-12.0 volts. Which is about right. I also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge since now I'm finally getting fuel to the rail but there's no pressure. I took off the FPR and theirs barely any fuel getting to that side, it just trickles out.

    Would there be any other reason why the pump is weak on supplying proper fuel pressure? Is the voltage supposed to be higher? Or is the new pump still bad?
  • racerken1racerken1 Posts: 1
    I have exact same problem UGH
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    Hey guys it finally started. I got a used pump from the scrap yard. Apparently the Brand spanking new pump from Advanced was defective, go figure. That just shows you that new parts cant always be trusted no matter what anyone says even if it's an OE replacement like the one I got.

    Thanks to that one and only guy who replied to my post for helping.

    So if anyone is reading this with similar problems I had a weak pump. It did receive the correct voltage but it wasn't pumping hard enough.
  • markcintxmarkcintx Posts: 3
    JAPMAX96; sounds like I may have a similar issue. Can you tell me how you tested the pressure in your fuel line?
  • japmax96japmax96 Posts: 8
    By using a fuel rail pressure gauge . Any Auto Parts store should carry it for around $30-$50.

    Here's a link explaining the whole process and more.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm
  • so i need to get a few parts for my 2002 daewoo lanos S. does anyone either have headlights and a front bumper cover for sale or know of any websites that sell these parts?
  • wooblooswoobloos Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 Daewoo Leganza. When starting the engine while cold, there is a loud vibrating noise. If I rev the engine, the noise stops. I can turn off the engine, turn it back on, and the noise is not there. I can drive the car around, turn engine off and on, the noise is not there. If the car sits for about 4 hrs. or overnight, the noise returns upon starting the engine. It's only there after the engine's gotten cold. I've taken it to a mechanic, they have no idea what it is. Anyone have any ideas? Other than the noise, the car runs great. Thanks.
  • I've been doing a ton of work on my car this summer and this is the only problem I haven't been able to solve. I get a cylinder 1 misfire when over 3000 rpm at about 75 mph (highway driving only, it doesn't happen in lower gears). The check engine light will come on and will shut off if I don't go on the highway for a few days.

    The car still rides smoothly with the light on (i drove it 400 miles over the weekend with the light flashing)

    The crankshaft pulley, timing belt, spark plugs and spark plug wires are all new.
    There is some oil leaking in the first cylinder but the spark plug itself doesn't have any oil on it.

    Anyone have any suggestions on what to try to try and fix this problem?
  • i have a 2000 daewoo leganza, i just put a head gasket and timing belt and replaced the plug behind the water pump on, drove it to get new tires, and to get it inspected, ran fine., drove it back to the shop and replaced the flex part of the exhaust because it had a hole in it, and went to go get it inspected again, stopped at the post office on the way, it was running fine, came back out, it wouldnt start. it wont crank at all, disconnected the battery, and it cranked three times, and then wouldnt crank again, disconnected it again, and it started, and ran then died. then it wouldnt crank again at all, even disconnecting the battery again, and jumping it. the power windows stopped working, no power to them, i rolled them up with a jumper to keep rain out, and the ac does not light up at all when i turn on the ignition, the radio howevewr works great., i took off the wires from the ignition switch, and i can jump to get the radio on, and the car will turnover with a jumper but wont start, i have no clue where to start, to fix the problem, i cant get the ac or the windows to work jumping the ignition wires at all. has anyone had this problem, or know where i can start trying to get it running again?
  • Hey guys, I am brand new to this and I am a woman who is getting taken to the cleaners. I am having the same problems with my daewoo.. Replaced spark plugs, fuel pump. fuel filter. now it wont start at all. They say it is the the clutch safety switch that is preventing it from starting. And they say it will be another week before part is in. Can anyone tell me where I would find the clutch saftey switch on a daewoo, so I can get it from our local pick and pull, they just got a daewoo in. I can not afford to be without a car another week. PLEASE SOMEONE can you help me with some info. I mean I need to know what to take off , where to find it on the car so I can get the part myself. And believe me I am no mechanic. Thank you
  • You know what that is what I have been through and it is costing me a fortune. Now my mechanic says the reason it wont start still is a clutch safety swicth. I don't know if this guy is just screwing me over or if this is true.Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.
  • joeyacejoeyace Posts: 5
    just found out my neighbor has the same car as mine by coincidence and was totaled in an accident she wants to "sell" the original factory owners manual with the vinyl or leather case............could anybody use this?
  • (You know what that is what I have been through and it is costing me a fortune. Now my mechanic says the reason it wont start still is a clutch safety switch. I don't know if this guy is just screwing me over or if this is true.Can anyone tell me if this is true or not.)

    The safety switch is attached to the clutch pedal frame under the dash,you may be able to disconnect it and jump the 2 wire together. But be careful, because now the car will start without the clutch being depressed, and if it's left in gear when you crank it it will move on you.
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    I have a 2001 Leganza, As you accelarate you here a rattle which sounds as if it's coming from the front of the car for about 2-3 secs at most and it goes away. Car is running great,Just had timing job done @ 57,000 miles. Have had it up in the air and nothing is loose underneath. I did find that the muffler has rattles from inside of it.Could it be possiable that the noise is coming from the muffler,and just resonating thru the car? It only does it when car is moving,won't do it when sitting there in park and reving engine
  • I have a 2000 Daewoo Lanos 1.5L. The problem is the number one plug gas fouls. The spark plugs have been swapped, new plug wires, new coil pakc, new cam positioning sensor, injections swapped, ecm changed. There is no oil in the water or water in the oil. What else can be done?
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