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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • frenchcarfrenchcar Posts: 247
    Have you ever had either Kumho or Hankook tires on any of your cars and how good are they? Im thinking of putting Kumho ASX on my wifes Suzuki Aerio 195X55X15 V speed rating similar to the originals from Yokohoma.. ???
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Hi frenchcar,
    No I really do not know the contact info for Holden or GMDAT, you might be able to look them up using a search engine.
    Regarding Kumho tires, they are BAAAAD in the winter. They slip even in the rain, and will cause your brakes to wear out sooner. They last about 40K miles before they are worn out.
    Hankooks are a bit better. I still have my Hankooks on the Leganza. They are ok in the rain, but they are BAAAD in the snow. They last longer than the Kumhos.
    Remember I live in Canada, so road traction in the severe weather is important to me. Korean tires are not very good in that area.

    Funny factoid: If you look at carpoint.com for the Leganza test drive from a while back, the Leganza scored 0.81 g's with the Korean tires. Which is similar to a BMW 5 series with real tires, and much better than the g rating on the new Verona which is based on the Leganza. I wonder if they replaced the Hankooks with Michelin's if it would rate even better than a beamer.
  • jon20013jon20013 Posts: 3
    I recently bought my wife a 2001 Nubira SE. It's a great little car for her and we're both impressed with the value for the price. Recently the vehicle has begun pulling to the right (quite hard I might add) at around 40 MPH. Does anyone have any idea of what may be causing this? The car has 36,000 miles on it.
  • richsaprichsap Posts: 93
    Hankook makes a high-milage tire, can't remember the model but it is a passenger tire rated at 100k miles, traction rating A. When my Daewoo was running, I never had a problem with them. They've got about 45,000 miles on them and still look brand new as far as treadwear. I was very impressed by their performance. They really hugged the road despite their high mileage rating because they use a dual-compound rubber. Was was even more amazing is I got them from a local tire dealer for $62 each, balanced and installed.

    Regarding a pulling problem, if it is speed-related (as in happens ONLY above XX MPH) then you likely have a bad tire. As the tire picks up rotational speed, it acts like a gyroscope. And at higher speeds this gyroscopic force would actually pull the car to one side. Bad alignments are detectable at all speeds, but low speeds especially. The only other thing I can think of (besides tires and alignment) would be a power steering valve problem, where higher pressures in the power steering system at higher speeds would be more noticeable. But this is not very likely. Good luck with it!
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    This is a very common problem with the Nubira. It has to do with the control arm rubber bushings. Depending on the mileage on the car, these bushings are probably worn out. There are four rubber bushings, 2 per control arm. These need to be replaced. If the car is still under warranty, you should get them done under warranty.
  • red33red33 Posts: 2
    Just a note about repair manuals and parts- if you have a 2000 Leganza it has the same engine as the Isuzu Rodeo- I bought the repair manual and parts to fix my timing belt and engine using Isuzu Rodeo parts which were exactly the same as the old parts and much cheaper.
  • bostonloubostonlou Posts: 11
    another episode for the saga.......

    turns out the AC problem is a compressor... holding off on paying $500 for that one.... we found this out when the wife lost her brake lights and couldn't shift out of park. they replaced the brake switch and all seemed ok

    but now the battery light is on as well as the brake light... they're pretty dim but on none the less... and the radio buttons are various shades of brightness ... thinking it's the alternator but am open to other suggestions??
  • alekalek Posts: 2
    I did not have major problems with Lanos, but after 45K it started hesitate (vibrate, tremble, shake?)in the Drive. Much more with A/C, and less in the Neutral. Plugs and wires were changed after 30K. Fuel filter was not changed and I have no problem to run engine. I have same problem with Ford Escort '95 and local mechanic sad it could be problem with transmission. Does anyone have any similar problems? Car's mileage is 48K.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Do not believe your mechanic. All you need is a professional fuel injection cleaning service. The car is misfiring because one of the fuel injectors is not functioning properly. This is very common on all daewoo cars. There is no problem with the engine or transmission.
    If the problematic injector is too bad, they would replace it.
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    I have the same problem with mine. Control arms & bushings. Both sides. My mechanic won't touch it. They are dealer only parts with no returns. Can't blame him. It would have only cost me about $667 parts & labor with my mechanic. I'm afraid to hear what the dealer is going to charge me. I also can't find my $1200 extended warranty, but, I'm sure that is expired too. I should have paid more attention.

    Jodi
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Oh boy, is service that expensive in the US?
    Here in Canada, the bushings job for both control arms (4 bushings) would cost you about $220 USD. Parts and labour included. You do not really need to replace the control arms, only the bushings, and here in Canada they are sold separately. If you want send me an email and I will direct you to my Daewoo dealer's website and phone number and maybe they can ship you the parts to the US. The bushings are really cheap here.
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    It's that expensive in MN. Figure the cost of the parts, then (usually), double it for the labor cost.
    I'm bringing it in to the dealer tomorrow morning. The place I bought my car is a Nissan (and others) dealer as well & they will warranty/service Daewoos.
    You say I don't really need the control arms replaced. So, if the dealer says I do, it wouldn't be out of line to ask if I really do? This dealer has tried to screw me out of money before. What would be a reason to need them replaced?? I'm trying to be better prepared for this.....

    TIA
    Jodi
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    You need them replaced if you hit a curb and they got bent or something. Normally what happens is that the bushings get worn out. So you only need to replace the bushings. The control arms are usually fine.
    Now the problem you have is do they sell the Bushings by themselves in the US? Or do you have to buy the whole control arm? The dealer might say that they do not have the bushings piecemeal.
    In Canada we can buy the bushings separately.

    Also what mileage is your car at? if you are 50K miles or above and you have not changed your timing belt yet. You should get that done ASAP. You should replace the whole timing assembly (belt, tensioner, rollers, water pump (preferably)).
    You can usually tell before a timing belt starts to go bad. The tensioner gets loose and you hear a lose chain sound at low speed coming from the passenger side area.
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    It's that expensive in MN. Figure the cost of the parts, then (usually), double it for the labor cost.
    I'm bringing it in to the dealer tomorrow morning. The place I bought my car is a Nissan (and others) dealer as well & they will warranty/service Daewoos.
    You say I don't really need the control arms replaced. So, if the dealer says I do, it wouldn't be out of line to ask if I really do? This dealer has tried to screw me out of money before. What would be a reason to need them replaced?? I'm trying to be better prepared for this.....

    TIA
    Jodi
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    Well, then I probably need them replaced. I slid into a few curbs last winter. lol I'll have to remember to ask them if they are bent and if they are sold separately.
    I'm at about 61k for miles. I've already had my timing belt replaced. It was cracked or something. Cost me a small fortune. I think it was replaced around 35k. I think I posted it on here somewhere..dealer said it wasn't a warranty part. I should pull out my paperwork to see if it was just the belt that was replaced....

    Still, this is the first major problem I've had with this car & it's not really "major". It's driveable, just scary. lol

    Does anyone know if you can replace the fog lights yourself??? I always seem to have one out.

    Jodi
  • Did anyone receive any notice on this recall?
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    I haven't yet. It would be nice to receive it soon. Then, after they install new control arms/bushings, they can replace the cam sensor. From what I've read, the recall was supposed to start this month, which is already half over.....

    Jodi
    no parts yet!!!
  • jodifjodif Posts: 12
    So, I call the dealer to find out when the parts that were ordered last Thursday would be in. After being on hold for 15 minutes, they tell me the parts were never ordered. The guy I talked to last week, that said he ordered the parts on priority, is on vacation. Now what the hell am I supposed to do???

    Jodi
  • alekalek Posts: 2
    Thanks for advice to clean injectors. I thought it could be that problem and I added one can of some chemical for cleaning injectors (can't remember name) from Chevron. It did not help. Is it real to clean injectors by myself adding something to gas?
    A/C compressor became noisy and I tried to add Easter Oil Aerosol. After 15 minutes can was almost full and looks like nothing was added(still noisy). My friend did it with Eagle Vision '94 and everything was OK. Could be pressure in Low pressure hose higher then pressure in the can?
    And about recall: Tried to call 1-877-362-1234. Spent 15 minutes and couldn't reach anybody alive(only option to leave a message).
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    No Alek, a fuel injector cleaner added to the fuel will not work. You need to get it professionally done. They do it in the fuel lines right at the injectors, and they pass through cleaner under pressure. Sometimes they might need to replace the particular injector if a cleaning was insufficient to get it to work properly.
  • Hey, Jkobty....
    what's that website and/or name and phone number for your Daewoo dealer with the reasonably priced parts?
  • Just got my notice in the mail today. I also posted before about having the check engine light on in my car. Spent the money to get it replaced. It's nice to know that hopefully I will get some money back for it. Basically, if your car has a vin that matches the ones they are recalling or you got a new camshaft sensor after Oct 2001 you should get it inspected and replaced for free. Unfortunately there are not many Daewoo service places around here so it's going to be a pain.
  • milymily Posts: 2
    I received the letter from Daewoo my vin number fall in the ones stated in the letter and I have the check engine ligth on with the code "camshaft position sensor slow response" but the dealer refuse to change it saying the serial number of the sensor is not the one in the recall.
  • mazharmazhar Posts: 1
    I just got a 2000 Leganza CDX. Great price (high depreciation/low resale). The GM dealer is replacing the cam shaft sensor. A couple of questions I have are as follows:
    1. Is the POS button on the radio/CD the only way to control fade & balance?
    2. Is it possible to set my own settings for the radio/CD equalizer and save it in one of the 4 memory buttons?
    3. Does anyone have any problems with the climate control? it is either too hot or too cold. Have a rough time to keep it at a proper temperature without fiddling with it everytime. Any help would be appreciated
  • i was just wondering if anyone knew of somewhere that i can purchase just the bushings...
  • We have a '99 Daewoo Leganza, with the 2.2L engine, the belt failed, broke off 8 (the forward row of) valves, punctured thru 3 of the 4 pistons, bend the plugs, and damaged the head beyond repair. The replacement parts are excessively hard to find and very pricey, to boot. Not a good situation for the unsuspecting owner! Suspect this has similar parts to the old Sunfire twin cam engine?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    My daewoo dealer in toronto can get ship you these parts. However I am not allowed to mention any names or addresses or phone numbers here on edmunds. So if you send me an email, I will gladly forward you their website and phone number.
  • astrolastrol Posts: 312
    Had the same thing happen to my original engine last year at Thanksgiving. Belt went at 57K when it was rated to 72K. As I had just bought the car a few months before in April on Ebay at a substantial discount it was worth it to me to put in another complete engine rather than try to rebuild it. I sourced a used one fairly quickly with 16K and had it shipped to my local shop. The new engine has a new timing belt and water pump and runs without the constant CEL glow provided by the original one, Thank Goodness.

     

    I only put between 6-7.5K a year on the car and it's basically my puttermobile. If you have trouble locating the necessary parts I strongly recommend a complete swap-out of the engine.
  • for your engine. Was it a reasonable cost for you? That does sound like an easier way to go than tearing in to your engine, if the price is fair on the replacement one.

    2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS

  • astrolastrol Posts: 312
    Hi Fella...long time no chat.

     

    If I remember correctly there were two engines available at the time from this particular salvage dealer...located in Tenessee or Kentucky I think...maybe Arkansas. I can check if needed.

     

    I took the 'younger' one at 16K for $900 and added in a complete 1 year warranty for another $150 I think. Turns out I didn't need it but felt right at the time. Shop did all the work for another $1K or so as I recall. $2K into a vehicle I had just bought for under $4K 6 months before seemed OK for my needs. It was my own stupidity about the original belt going anyway...I could easily have had the replacement done when my shop handled the vehicle inspection and service when it arrived from Pa. But that 72K Belt rating in the manual looked like I might get a year or two of my low mileage use before running into that expense.

     

    Call me penny-wise and pound foolish.

     

    Anywhoooo...thing runs like a top now although I can never get anything like the rated gas mileage on this thing unless I'm pure highway which is rare. It usually avgs. around 23 for my driving.

     

    I figure I will keep this thing for quite a few years still. We'll see. Now my dash has started to come unglued at the defroster grill like a previous poster reported so I'm currently searching for the right super quick-acting adhesive. It has to be that kind as there's no room to do a proper glue down without removing the windshield.

     

    Oh well, such is life.
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