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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I had a 2000 S10 extended cab with the 4.3 V6 that had the oil cooler lines replaced. I had a GM dealer do the work. It cost about $300 parts and labor. It's the kind of job that you don't want to put off becuase if the line breaks then you'll lose your engine oil. Good luck.
  • More than likely the Vacuum Actuator under the Battery tray is not working or the cable that goes from the Vacuum Actuator to the axle is bad. It could be that one of your wheel hubs have bad bearings and need to be replaced for the axle to mesh with the hub.
  • halserhalser Posts: 20
    I have a 95 Chevy S10 ext cab pu. The engine is the 4 cyl with a 5 speed stick.
    The rubber washer from one of the bolts that holds the cab to the frame fell off.
    Do you access the bolt from inside the cab? Is it hard to replace the washer?
  • cooper26cooper26 Posts: 1
    I am looking for a set of left side stripes for a 95 S-10 Xtra cab 2X4 pickup. They are 5 line with speckles--purple/silver in color. Can send a pic if you think you may have them. Please let me know. Thank you!
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    So a couple months ago I went to use the 3rd door on my truck and pulled the handle and SNAP! went something inside. Groan I thought. This is the 4th time this thing had broken, although the last time was several years ago. A quick history: The first time the handle snapped off because it was manufactured using only a small piece of plastic to pop the two latches at the top and bottom of the door. The piece of plastic wasn't up to the stress of doing that and eventually gave out. I replaced the handle because at the time I didn't know any better. If you have owned a 3rd door Ex-cab S-10/Sonoma and haven't had this issue, count yourself lucky. Otherwise you probably know exactly what I am talking about.

    Well a couple months later, the same exact thing happened. I ordered a new handle and then started doing research to find out what the deal was and this was when I found out that I was't the only one with this problem and someone had designed a simple fix for the problem. They had manufactured a handle out of aluminum that would never fail. And the kicker?? It was cheaper than a new handle from the GM parts dept or anywhere else! So cheap in fact that I ordered one right then and there even though I already had a brand new entire handle mechanism on the way.

    The new OEM handle arrived and I just set it aside and waited for the "new" handle to come in. It was just the handle part and not the entire mechanism since only the handle part was poorly engineered in the first place. I replaced just the one part and things have been fine since I did that several years ago.

    Fast forward to a couple months ago. I went to use the handle and SNAP! Well the door handle it self didn't appear to be broken but something had snapped. For a while I had noticed the door being kind of hard to open and took a bit of force so I figured that force got to something inside the door. I put off taking a look at it because I didn't really want to mess with it. Today though, I decided to take it apart and see what went wrong. Turns out a piece of the handle mechanism had broken off. (the plastic piece inside the spring on the latch mechanism) As I looked at it, I remembered suddenly that I had a brand new handle mechanism sitting somewhere that I had never used! I ran to find it and luckily I found it. That part itself is amazing considering I ordered that handle probably 4 or 5 years ago and it went through a couple of moves. I'm amazed I was able to find it with out hardly looking for it. I spent more time looking for my ratchet to remove the seat belt. Five minutes later, I had transfered out the plastic handle with my aluminum handle and put the whole thing back together and my door works!
  • I'm looking for an extended cab S-10 anywhere from 1994 to 2003. I'm more concerned with condition than anything else. This will be a vehicle that will be used very infrequently for town driving. It needs to look good and drive well. I'm not looking for a construction vehicle that is beat up. I wonder what years would be the best to look for based on dependability, lack of a lot of electronic components to go wrong and so on. I'd want an LS with automatic. I wonder if newer models -say 2000-1003 might be more dependable. You guys are the experts. What year or years should I consider? Thanks!
  • We have a 2000 S10 ext cab auto 4wd and it has been a great vehicle. We are running an ad next week to sell it. We're asking $7000. We're in Oregon. One owner. Less than 90,000 miles. Indigo blue. We have 3 vehicles and I was laid off a year ago so we're selling the oldest one to pay off other bills.
  • I have a beautiful 1998 S10 4WD for sale. Call if interested. 808 450 0472
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Okay - I would suggest you get anything from 1998-2003, 2wd with the V6. That will make you the happiest I think based upon what you're saying. I have a 2001 ex-cab V6 with an auto tranny and love it. Been really dependable and it has manual windows and locks with few electronics. Good power, decent mileage (just don't expect spectacular).

    I say those years because it might be easier to find a low mile vehicle in good shape the newer you go. Mine is an '01 and has almost 130K on it, but I have seen several a lot older than mine with less miles. These are stout little vehicles if you stick with the 2wd. The 4wd isn't bad, but has chronic ball joint and oil filter gasket problems. The model years 1997-2003 are the same mechanically. They use the same basic engine set up and transmission. In 2004, the only S-10 you were able to get was the 4wd crewcab with the ultra short bed.

    1994-1996 uses a simpler engine (V6 models) and so there is less electronics involved, but it doesn't have as much power. During the 1996 model year, they updated the V6 and it gained more power and a more complex fuel managment system. All they really did is change heads on it to the Vortec heads and changed the fuel injection system. The block and transmission remained the same although it became electronically controlled. I am not too familiar with the 4 cylinder models as far as reliability is concerned, but they are way down on power, especially when saddled with the automatic and the mileage gain for gas mileage isn't that great, especially with an extended cab. I would stay away from the 4 cylinder at all costs. The motors are rattly and maintenance prone especially once they cross 100K.

    So in short, if I was looking to buy an S-10, here is what I would look for. Model years 1998-2003. Extended cab, V6, auto transmission. No Power windows or door locks and you should be happy. That particular combo shouldn't be hard to find in a good used condition since they weren't usually driven as work trucks. It was also a pretty popular combo as well.
  • WOW! 12/14/09 I JUST HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. WENT TO FILL MY TANK AND GAS KEPT POURING OUT. TOOK ME 5 MIN. TO GET 2 DOLLARS IN IT AND I NEW THE TANK WAS EMPTY. KEPT ADJUSTING THE NOZZLE IN AND OUT. FINALLY I TURNED THE GAS NOZZLE SIDE WAYS AND SHE STARTED TAKING GAS. INSTEAD OF HAVING IT AT 12 TO 6 POSITION, I TURNED THE NOZZLE SIDE WAYS TO A 9 TO 3 POSITION. I CANT EXPLAIN IT WHY THIS WORKED BUT IT DID. I ALSO NOTICED THAT THE GAS NOZZLE LOOKED FAIRLY NEW. IM THINKING IT VAPOR LOCKED IN THE INTAKE TUBE. WHO KNOWS!!!!!!!!! I ALSO THOUGHT SOMEBODY STUFFED SOMETHING DOWN INTAKE TUBE. WONDERING IF YOU ARE STILL HAVING PROBLEMS. 2003 S10 EXTENDED CAB. 4.3 GOOD LUCK
  • I have a 2002 Chevy S10 that I just changed the fuel pump on. After changing it my float got stuck. We pulled the bed and *thought* we fixed the problem but I'm still having to check mileage. The weird part is that for a few days the gauge will stay stuck on full (even when it's not) then all of a sudden it will say its stuck on empty (even after I just filled it up) Any ideas?
  • Thanks for the heads up on turning the nozzle. I had the same problem with my 2002 S10 (also extended cab 4.3) last week and couldn't figure out what the deal was. Will try that next time.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Well it worked right before the pump change. I would go back to the sender unit, with a meter the resistance should read 40-240 ohms full to empty. If no problem there the connector would be next to check.
  • 2000 S10, 4.3L, auto, 151k: Recently had radiator clog/stop up with red rust. Had radiator, thermostat and resevoir changed out, systen flushed and backflushed. After driving just 3 weeks, the water/coolant is red again. Obviously, I believe rust is still ongoing in the system. How can I stop the rust? Funeralman.
  • I have an '82 S-10 with an oil leak, not a huge one, but it's dripping down the back of the block from somewhere. I thought I'd try the cheap and easy fixes first, and I saw on this forum a couple of years ago a discussion about oil pressure senders leaking oil. Well, I pulled out my Chilton's, and it mentions nothing about this particular part. I assume it, or something like it, must exist on the truck, but the manual was no help. O'Reilly's carries an "oil pressure switch" for the '82 S-10, but without any idea of where it goes, it isn't much help. Any ideas?
  • I THINK YOUR OK. I HAVE A 2003 S10 45000 MILES AND MY COOLANT LOOKS A REDDISH COLOR. ITS CALLED DEXCOOL AND ITS ACTUALLY A ORANGE COLOR AND WHEN DILUTED WITH WATER ITS A REDDISH COLOR. PLUS ONCE IT REACHES OPERATING TEMP. IT CHANGES COLOR.
  • OK 4 CYL OR V6 ENGINE
  • There is a vent valve that opens when you shut the vehicle off to allow the air to vent as you refill the tank. The problem is the valve is located on top the fuel tank, as part of the fuel sending unit/pump module. The service manual suggests to remove the truck box to access this
  • OK HAVE YOU CHANGED YOUR PCV VALVE YET. PCV (PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE) IS DESIGNED TO RELIEVE CRANKCASE PRESSURE AND FUMES. SOMETIMES THESE THINGS PLUG AND SOMETIMES THEY WEAR OUT AND PULL TO MUCH VACUME AND START PULLING OIL OUT OF CRANKCASE. HINT..... HINT...... DO NOT BUY ONE FROM PEP BOYS, AUTOZONE, ETC... ETC..... BUY ONE FROM GM DEALER AC DELCO. I THINK YOURS IS PLUGGED AND YOUR BUILDING TO MUCH CRANKCASE PRESSURE CAUSING YOUR LEAK OR YOUR NOT PLUGGED AND PCV VALVE IS WORE OUT AND YOUR PULLING OIL OUT OF CRANKCASE. PCV VALVE COST ABOUT 10.00 DOLLARS. GOOD LUCK TRY THIS FIRST!
  • OK IM ON MY THIRD HANDLE AND AT 45.00 DOLLARS A PEICE ENOUGH IS ENOUGH. WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR NEW HANDLE. THANK YOU
  • ARE YOU STILL HAVING THIS PROBLEM AND IS IT DOING IT ALL THE TIME OR PERIODICALLY.
  • A- MEN BROTHER. I HAD MINE DONE.
  • Can someone tell me what I have for the front shaft: is it the "press on slip yoke seal" or is it the "screw on slip yoke seal?"

    The rear shaft appears to be only "2 joint shaft."

    This is all off of Autozone web site.

    I have not pulled driveshaft yet, want to have the new U joints handy before doing so.

    Thanks!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    The auto parts store will know what you need.
  • No, they are the ones who pointed it out to me and asked me which one I needed.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Your going to have to crawl under and look. Not too bad on a 4X4.
  • GMC Motorhome

    The GMC motorhome was produced by the GMC Truck & Coach Division of General Motors for the 1973 through 1978 model years in Pontiac, Michigan, USA. It was the only complete motorhome built by a major auto/truck manufacturer producing what GMC hoped would be their halo vehicle. Part of the reason this vehicle is so different from other motor homes of the era is that it was not conceived as just a "camper," but as a vehicle for comfortable travel as well. The design was radical for the day with front-wheel drive and a low profile, fully integrated body. At the time (as now), motorhomes were built by recreational vehicle manufacturers on bare frames and drivetrains supplied by a chassis manufacturer. GMC built the bodies and in most cases the interiors in-house, and designed the chassis and drivetrain to create a motorhome enclosure that could be adapted to a range of purposes. Empty shells were supplied to other RV manufacturers for upfitting the interiors and also to specialty manufacturers for a range of custom purposes ranging from mail delivery and mobile training facilities to people movers and ambulances
  • I have a 98 chevy s10 with 237,000 on it. In the mornings when its cool out it starts right up. When is warm out it cranks for 4 to 5 sec and then start but starts rough. If I shut it off and start it back up right away it starts fine. If I wait 15 minutes or so it starts rough.

    So far I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator.
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