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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance



  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    That is a very good dissertation on the theory of warped rotors. I can't agree or disagree on the over tightening scenario. I just haven't given it much thought. All I know is that when they first started coming out with disk brakes back in the day, they said to use a cross pattern when tighten down the lugs and to go over the pattern a couple of times so as not to crank down too tight the first go around. I don't know if this procedure holds any credence but so far it's worked for me. :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Just a thought. What if you went on line to a parts web site like AdvanceAutoparts or Autozone and looked up the part number for long blocks of both S-10s to see if same. Or, give'em a call. Its probably as you suggested, change over the intake and a few extremities and you'll be good to go.

    I replaced the engine in my kids car a couple of months ago with a rebuilt long block. It came with a 36month/36k mile warranty. The car is a 95 2.2.L but the block would fit many years.
    Good luck :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Posts: 165

    I agree-
    2 more cents worth (or is that 4 cents now ??)....

    Many years ago - When I was in Army Mechanic school - we were always taught to skip a lug / cross pattern tighten. But at the time it was to ensure that the wheel rear face was pulled flush to the drum. Some wheel center holes fit tightly over a circular boss of the Drum in the center - and may hang up if there is rust or other foreign matter int he opening. Also - the cross pattern was to to ensure that the the lugs get tighened evenly. First Tighten all lugs to bottom finger tight - then do the cross pattern twice - once lightly to snug and seat the full wheel - at least once more to tighten ... Also, The Drums had much more meat to them - I rarely heard of a warped drum - (but there ware out of round drums due to uneven wear of the shoes ...) It was common to snap lugs eother when removing - or tightening by hand ..
  • How can I tell if my 2001 S10 has a heater control valve? Where would it be located? Thanks for any help you can give me.
  • I bought my truck with about 80,000 miles on it and 7,000 miles later i still have the same problem... If i excellerate through second gear past about 23 MPH then the vibration is'nt as bad as if I shift with lower RPM's, then it feels like im coming in for landing on a plane, but it soon goes back to its normal slow self once i reach about 26 MPH. It does the same thing at about 47-50 MPH but not quite as bad. I have been told its the U-joints were bad but no luck with that. Maybe the crankshaft or some of the bearings have gone bad? If anyone has any clues to what might be wrong i would appreciate the advice. Thanks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Pls read my sad story of: #1707 of 2018 Re: vibration [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch May 05, 2006 (7:18 pm)

    I don't know is it matches the problems your having but it might be worth checking into.

    Good luck :blush:
  • I'm sorry you had to go through all that for something so small... I'm not for sure if the person before had replaced the catalytic converter or not but that's what im hoping for. Thanks
  • Hi - the bigal !!!

    Well, I'd not jump to comclusions that it's your rear main seal - just yet .... I'd check the following;

    (- I assume you checked that this oil is is not red tranny fluid ...)

    As I'm sure you know - Everything that leaks winds up on the bottom of the oil pan /and or/ transmission ...

    I'd clean the entire engine / under hood at this point and look / watch daily watch to see if it's not the;
    - Valve cover gaskets.
    - The oil pan gasket itself.
    - Also - years ago the pressure oil senders tended to be on the top of the engines - and they were well know for leaking oil - the oil would leak out the sender and drip down the block to the bottom. So, Don't forget to check the top of the block - and everywhere you can

    Obviously engines pick up all sorts of grime and such, and you just can't tell where it's coming from ... The main seals used today usually last well in excess of your mileage (some last almost forever ...).

    So, I'd get the whole engine compartment squeekly clean, and then look, watch and wait for a number of days ...

    Good Luck !!

  • Hi thebigal.

    I'm not "Sure" where the sender is on this engine - on my old (1960's-1970's) GMs I changed quite a few. Those were on the top rear of the engine (and leaked right where you say the oil is dripping - which is why I made the post / comment)...

    The Sender is no more than a pressure switch and I'd say it has to be well under $100 (~ $50 or less ??) . Also, those oils Pressure switches needed a special socket for the a common socket wrench to install - as they were a screwy shape/Diameter - trying to use pliers to install guaranteed yet another leaky sending unit ... As for what's / where is in these engines - I'm not 100% sure ..

    Good Luck !!

    (If I remember, I'll look in my 2002 service manual and re-post any info I find ...)

  • Hi thebigal.

    A Question for you (and others) if I may ?? My, purchased new, 2002 GMC Sonoma (now has only 48K mi) has been acting a little strange in the part few months (or may be it's just me being paranoid ??).

    The Front end / drive bearings seem to be getting louder - but it seems to come and go. Perhaps it's just age - and the cold in the winter in the NE. USA. One Front bearing was changed about 15K mile ago - and it seems no louder that the other (if for nothing more than a comparison.). The front drive train noise tends to come and go - perhaps with temperature - and perhaps with changes in asphalt ... And, as it's getting older - It's probably just me complaining about an aging truck ... So, my question is - is your front end drive train / bearing, etc. still a quiet as when you had purchased the truck (I assume new ??) .

    I did change tires some months ago (to Toyo) and there was a slight difference in road noise - but this issue has been bugging me for about a year. It comes and goes (to my poor hearing) - but I assume if there was something going - it would show itself after a number of months ... Otherwise I have no issues ..

  • Hi,
    I have a 98 chevy s10 with 83,000 miles on it. the problem is when i start it in the mornings when its cold, it turns over right away, when i try to turn it on when its warm it will crank for about 3 to 4 seconds and start up really rough.

    I had a mechanic look at and he told me my fuel pump was bad so i changed that and now im out 500 bucks and no solution to my problem.

    Also after it starts up warm and i turn it off then on again right away it will start up fast, but if i let it sit for a couple minutes it wont start right away!

    What is wrong with my truck?
  • Hi,

    A couple dumb thoughts -

    - Vapor lock in the fuel lines? (Probably not if the pump is in the tank )

    - or more possibly - Try lossening your gas cap - I'm wondering if you are getting a vacuum lok in the gas tank ...
  • Hey guys just wondering if anyone knew where to find the radiator drain plug as I am looking to flush my system. Thanks
  • I have seem to found it on the bottom driverside corner of the rad, unfortunately it is very flush with the rad and difficult to get your hand into loosen it off. Has anyone every taken one off and have any suggestions? Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I'm not sure on yours but alot of the newer GM's have a drain plug that turns only 1/2 a turn and pops loose. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension. The plug itself has a 1/4 inch square indentation. Needless to say you can burn your hand if the engine has been running.
    Good luck :shades:
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    I had the sajme problem on an '83 VW GTI. Replaced the fuel pump relay and the problem went away. There was a certain temperature range that caused it to lose contact; above or below was fine.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    After much procrastination, I finally replaced the hinge pin on my 92 S-10. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Preliminary thought was to replace the entire hinge. That is till I found out they are installed by being welded on. So I went with plan “b”, replace bushings and pin and keep old hinge.

    I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly.

    The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done.

    I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch.

    We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time. :shades:
  • bomb21bomb21 Posts: 2
    my s 10 is having the same problem if you have any tips please help.
  • bomb21bomb21 Posts: 2
    wow thanks for the reply. here is some more info, this chevy s10 blazer is hard to star after sitting for more than 1 hour. i have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel regulator & cleaned my fuel pump ground. first ignition cycle in the morning i have 50 psi fuel pressure when cranking drops to 45 psi, wont start. hooked up my battery charger and fuel pressure jumps to 60 psi, it then takes a couple of cranks, but will start. battery is good(load tested)& cleaned my terminals. i am getting 10.3 volts from the fuel pump relay when cranking and 9.7 at the pump( no charger connected) this does not seem to be enough to work the fuel pump. i am pretty sure i have a voltage drop someware, but ware? i would think 10 volt should be enough to operate the fuel pump.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Hey dude... Dont want to burst your bubble, but avoid the 2.2 motor. I have yet to run across any 2.2's with over 200,000 miles on them. (for that matter I havent run across any 4.3 V-6's that are from the model year 98 and up, however it could be that only time needs to go by before those models start reaching 200K). But I have seen and serviced several early model 4.3 Vortec and prior 4.3's with over 200K on them. But I would recomend staying away from the 2.2. Others may have their opinion, but the 2.2 is underpowered and under torqued for the S-10. It doesn't hold up well to be stressed at moving the S-10's heft - it weighs a good 2 ton especially extended cab. Once the 2.2 reaches 100K, my experience has shown it to start leaking heads, rattling like a tractor and blowing seals. It's all downhill once it reaches that mark. That's just my experience.
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