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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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  • joemilanjoemilan Posts: 6
    I have a '97 S10 with the 4.3L V6 Vortec. If the timing chain / belt breaks, is this a catastrophic failure, or will you simply be stranded?? If it is a catastrophic issue, what is the recommended mileage to change this at and an approximate cost.

    Thanks
  • ffmcobaltffmcobalt Posts: 20
    I just put a new starter in my S-10 Blazer. The trouble was that the Chiltons says that it would take 2.5 hours. Yuck.

    I took the exhaust apart trying to get the starter to drop down since there wasn't any room to pull it up through the top. With a friend pulling the exhaust to the side and me pulling down on the starter, we still couldn't get the damn thing out. So then we decided to hell with it and took the cross-member out.

    Yeah, that wasn't fun putting back in. *grr!* It took three entire shims plus one half shim on the outside bolt. It's a good thing that there wasn't any more space needed because I ran out of shims.

    What happens next? I can't find the bolts that bolt the exhaust line to the exhaust header. Great. Now I have one side of the exhaust off and no bolts. The cool thing is that now it sounds like a frickin monster truck, rumbling down the road. :D It's nice to waste the ricers off the line AND sound like a huge-[non-permissible content removed] Chevy 350 under the hood. I have to bottle it up pretty quickly, though, because I don't want anything melting.

    I have a new carb from Holley sitting on the passenger seat of my truck because it's a little too complicated for my solo-automotive-expertise. Vacuum hoses SUCK. I just don't have the patience. I can do it no problem with the motor is out of the truck like what was done when three of us rebuilt the motor, but on my own when the motor is in is just too much for my lazy butt. :p
  • deuskiddeuskid Posts: 20
    s-10 extended cab w/ 4.3, auto trans. Has 107,xxx miles on it. How reliable is this engine? Gas milage [why don't they have a smaller 6 or a decent 4? just wondering]? When is the timing belt needed to be changed [not listed in the owner's manual]? thx
  • bought our truck 7-24-02 about 6 months of ownership the tranny started to make a clattering noise like the throw out bearing was going out took it in they said it was normal noise. about a month ago it started making a noise like a j-brke noise when you let off the gas took it in they said normal noise so they refused to fix it now it makes the noise all the time is there any one who is experiencing the same noises please leave a message in the town hall thank you
  • Is it really necessary to have the transmission fluid changed at 30K or is not? Not sure if I'm being taken or not? Any thoughts?
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    That might be a little early for a highway driven vehicle, not bad for a city driver. If you plan on keeping the machine for several years it's a very good idea to change the trans fluid regularly - if not - you can run it a long time without maintenance but it will shorten the life of it.
  • bigbutrbigbutr Posts: 111
    Recently took possession of a 1996 extended cab with the 4.3 vortec V-6 with just 63,200 miles for use on a rural mail route with the USPS. I'll only be using it twice to maybe three times a week for a 58 mile route, but, as you can assume, there is a lot of stop and go. Anyone have any advice on what fluids I should change out. I'm thinking of switching over to full synthetic oil and was wondering if there is some upgraded auto tranny fluid which would help as well. I'll be taking advantage of Midas' lifetime brake guarantee since I plan on working with the USPS for a while.
    FWIW, the truck was in immaculate condition, has nearly every option that was offered that year and looked nearly brand new. Old people take care of their stuff.
  • Well, definately change the oil and filter. I run synthetic in my 2000 Sonoma and I did in my prior '96 S-10. It will definately extend the life and health of your engine if you're willing to spend the extra change for the good stuff. If the the tranny fluid and filter have never been changed you're gonna want to do that too. As far as changing your coolant, if it has never been done it might be a good idea. Make sure you use the Orange stuff though or else you could have some problems. As far as other regular maintainence, make sure your brake and steering fluids are topped off and it might be a good idea to buy and new air filter as well, that can do wonders for your gas milage if yours is dirty. Well, hope that helps. Enjoy your truck. I had mine for 3 years and only a couple of minor, age related problems. It was a great truck. I just wanted 4x4.
  • You may want to have the cooling system pressure tested. You can almost bet the intake gaskets will be leaking soon. Mine were replaced at only 33,000 miles.
  • I have a pretty noticeable squeak when turning right that just started recently. If I am holding the wheel stright or turning left - no squeak - just when I am making right turns. Could this be a break wear indicator? Let me know what you think.....thanks.

     

    98 S-10 2.2L LS Trim Stadard Cab - Two Wheel Drive
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Was wondering if anyone has replaced their O2 sensor(s) in their pickup. Have a 99 with 4.3 v6/auto.

     

    Also, has anyone replaced their cap and rotor (have the HVS ignition). The service manual states spark plug and wire replacement interval, but nothing on the O2 and the cap/rotor.

     

    Thanks for any help on this..
  • I replaced an O2 sensor in my 01 only because of a service eng. light, actually turned out that the sensor was not grounded. I may be wrong but I believe these sensors either work or not, I don't believe it is a maintenance item.

     

    Replaced the cap and rotor on my 95 due to obvious wear at the contacts at probably 75,000 mi.
  • Just for interest, here is an update on an old truck, that has been well taken care of. Good maintainance pays off!

    I own an '87 S-10 4x4 extended cab pickup 2.8V6, 4-spd auto transmission, 301,000 miles, original engine. It has lived thru 17 Minnesota winters! It is my daily driver, I commute 60 miles round-trip per day. 17 to 20 MPG. I love this truck, it is the best vehicle I have ever owned! But this truck is getting tired, and won't last forever!

     

    Anybody have good or bad experiences regarding the new Chevy Colorado or GMC Canyon? Particularly the 4x4 Crew Cab model with the in-line 5 cylinder engine?
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Thanks for the info. Just wanted to know if there was an interval for these items or not. Kind of basing it off my older vehicles, where it was recommended to replace them at the 30 - 40K mark, depending on the type you had (O2) and cap/rotor at the tune-up intervals.

     

    May I ask the number of O2 sensor you have. I have the 4.3 V6 and in looking up info, I've seen where 2 were listed (one before, one after the cat), but in another source it stated there were three used, two2 before the cat and one after?
  • Yes - I had to replace the handle. -

    What you do is take the handle off and there

    is a threaded rod on both sides of the inside

    of the handle, you can adjust these rods to

    either latch or unlatch easier just take the

    two screws off and play with it, i'm sure you'll

    get it.
  • I was wondering how to replace the PCV on

    top of the valve cover (smooth valve cover)

    on 2.2 ltr 4 cyl 2000 or newer. Tried twisting

    with channel locks and it won't budge.
  • I have a 4.3L V6 94 Blazer. Maybe this will help? I replaced my O2 sensor. It's screwed into the top of the exhaust pipe going to the engine, under the front passenger side. It just screws in and out. Tough spot, but easier with the right socket. They sell a socket with a slit in the side for easier slip around the electrical connection. Use that. Also you'll have to disconnect the electrical connector next to it so it doesn't get in the way. Careful not to get the accompanying thread silicone on the sensor tip. That will cause problems. As far as the cap and rotor. Easy. Just make sure you put the spark plug wires in the same order on the cap as the old one. The rotor and cap are easy to remove and replace, just screws. hope this helps. Always remove the battery cable to disconnect power source before working on anything. Lastly, Go to www.Helminc.com for shop manuals for our vehicle or any GM vehicle. I bought mine years ago for $120, 3 huge manuals. Now the price is $30 for those same 3 detailed shop manuals.
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,205
    Thanks for the info. I purchased the socket a long time ago when I bought O2s for my other vehicles. Also know about the silicone on the threads and not getting it on the tip. Was just really wondering if there was a specific interval. Have a shop manual as well, but not sure of th 3-manual one covers it. The passenger-side one near the cat not too bad getting to, was able to see it when I drop the trans pan to do a fluid/filter change.

    The cap/rotor is different on mine (99) and yours, particularly the rotor. The HVS system is used on the newer vortecs, think they started this system in 98? when the injection system changed. 94s still used the HEI II right (non-integral coil)?
  • qamarqamar Posts: 2
    Hi Guys
    I have recently purchased this truck. It runs fine. I have noticed the sound of water coming up from the passenger side. May be the AC ducks are clogged or what is it.
    The coolant level is ok. Any help will be appreciated.
    Qamar
  • Hi guys,
    I have a 2002 Blazer 4x4 V6 Automatic. It is due for a 60,000 mile service. The dealer is trying to get me to do all kinds of items that are not in the service manual, the 3 expensive ones being a full fuel system service, power steering flush, brake system flush. Does anyone know what all I should actually do for the 60,000 mile service on a Blazer.
    Thanks,
    Alan
  • mikeys10mikeys10 Posts: 7
    This sounds like your evap casing is fill up with water and not draining , drain hole may be cloged. If it were coolant, engine temp. would be show higher.
  • mikeys10mikeys10 Posts: 7
    Yes, of the two important fluid to monitor motor oil and transmission this is one of them. but shop will want to sell you a transmission flush. don't do it. The american transmission builder association does my endorse flushes. again depending what type of vehicle you have a transmission service is the best. A service is dropping the transmission pan and replacing the filter, clean the pan bottom, place the pan back and replace the fluid that only came from the pan. yes, transmission change every 30k the other option is $3000 to rebuild it.
  • shanerhdshanerhd Posts: 2
    wow thought it was just me....thanks for the tip
  • shanerhdshanerhd Posts: 2
    has anyone had a problem where the fuel pump gets power then don't then get's it again
    all ready replaced the relay and it pressure checks perfectly. realy lost could use any advice
  • racker1racker1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4.3 Vortex. The Tempture gauge comes on full when I start the vehicle and the goes to zero. I have replaced the Coolant Tempture Sensor. The gauge still does the same thing. Any suggestions.
  • I have a problem that I want to check on before I take it to a mechanic.
    I have a 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3L V6 w/ air and ~140K miles on it. Recently I was driving to work (only 4 mile trip) and it started coughing/sputtering something fierce and the cab started to smell like antifreeze. The power brakes stopped working and the heater quit blowing. I got into the parking lot at work and it continued to cough/sputter for a good 2 minutes before it finally choked and quit. 4 hrs later going home it ran perfect.

    This cough/sputter episode has happened 3 or 4 times in the last month or so and I need to figure out what is going on. I maintain it regularly, there is pleny of coolant and I can see no evidence of anything major happening under the hood.

    The only thing I can think of is that about 2 months prior to the first incident, the idler pulley broke, which broke the serp. belt, which means I drove it at most 4 miles with none of the belt driven components working.

    I am at a loss(not being any sort of mechanic) and I dont want to go to a mechanic not knowing anything about my situation....any help would be greatly appreciated

    Ben
  • i could be as simple as a bad ground
  • golf520golf520 Posts: 1
    I'm curious about how many more miles I can expect before I have issues? I am having Racaro Seats installed because the standard seats were uncomfortable for long hauls. I thought about a new truck, but like the looks of my truck, it has served me well AND it is paid for, so a no brainer for me! Now I am excited about customizing. We recently put in a Rhino bed liner and sound system...any more ideas? How about maintenance??? Last major 125k and I do oil changes every3k.

    I'm a babyboomer female that loves to garden and golf...I am also happily married, so I'm only interested in S10 conversations - not pickup!
  • :sick: I got a '93 Blazer with 166k miles. It has been running very well until recently when it started idling at 3500-4500 rpms. It had the fuel injectors and ICM changed. Please help. :sick:
  • I have a 89 S10 Blazer 4X4. I changed the fuel pump because of low pressure and fine now. I changed the throttle body gasket. I get codes for all sensors and some that don't exist. fixed 2 computer wires and also replaced computer. It idles at 1000 and immediatly drops to 500 w/check engine light on and immediately idles back up w/light off. This is continuous. I accelerate and it sputters and have to press the gas repetitively and then finally goes. When it drops below 2000 you have to do it again. After about 15-20 min it may straighten out and be fine and then it will do it again when it's cold. Sometimes it will just start again when it's warm. It acts like a Mass Air Flow sensor but I can't find it nor do any parts stores list one. I am about to try the Idle Air Control Valve. Any suggestions?? Thanks :sick:
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