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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • qamarqamar Posts: 2
    Its not the AC water pipes being clogged. There is air in your water system. Pl flush the old cooalnt specially when the Dexcool is inside it. Replace it with any Green Coolant available in the market. Also take out the thermostate valve out when you are flushing the water out of your system. Once you are funished remember to keep the raditor reserviour bootle full. Last of all if your truck is still with the original GM raditor cap, change it with any good raditor cap. the origianl cap has got the capacity to take air, thus resulting in guggling sound from the passenger side of the truck.
    Try it up and keep us posted. Best of luck
    Regards
  • kolt45kolt45 Posts: 1
    the other day i took my tbu apart tring to find out why my 1989 4.3l v6 was flooding itself and stalling out on me, i think i figured out the problems.

    1. the injectors were spilling fuel even when the vehicle was turned off.
    2. when i opened the throttle body, the diaphram spring whas completely broken in half, this creates a problem, because when the diaphram doesnt have a spring, the truck wont run at the correct fuel pressre.

    the real reason i posted on this forum is because i was curious as to where i would find this spring. is it a dealer part, because napa doesnt carry it, and it doesnt come in the tbu repair kit. any info would be extremely helpful
  • chevbearchevbear Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 99 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4. I'm getting a loud humming or whinning noise coming from the front end. I thought it was coming from the engine, but when I stop and put it in neutral it goes away. Its only when i'm in gear. I just had the electrical switch that switches from 2x4 to 4x4 replaced. Any Ideas what the noise is. I'm thinking its something with the drive shaft or 4x4. It makes the same sound weather its in 2x4 or 4x4.
  • I recently had to remove the head from my 97 S-10 2.2 Pick up because of stripped out spark plug holes. We were able to retap the the threads and do some major cleaning. After putting all back together we have run into a misfire issue. The truck runs great at driving speeds but the idle is all wrong. Though we were cautious when removing and replacing the spark plug wires, I am afraid that one may be crossed. Does anyone know a place on the net that I can find the spark plug wire routing for this truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • okeecookeeco Posts: 1
    93 S-10 Blazer Transmission help! I just replaced the motor in my 1993 chevy s-10 blazer 4x4 with the 4.3L Vortec ( threw a piston thru old oil pan) when i removed everything the transmission was running GREAT! My only problem, obviously, was the engine was blown... well... since i put it all back together the Motor is running great! but it seems my transmission does not want to shift into overdrive! anyone know what this is? Do i need to have my truck hooked to a diagnostic computer to reset anything? After i put the motor in, I did start the truck without the transmission in it. All I did to the transmission was change the transmission filter. I believe the transmission I have has the electronic "kick-down" It has a electrical connection on the passenger side of the transmission (i am not sure which one this transmission is) I will post a pic of the connector. CAN ANYONE HELP? PLEASE!!!!! I am moving to West Virginia soon and it is a long drive to make going 50mph cause it wont shift into overdrive!

    Anyway... here is the pic of the connection (if it works) or msg me and i will email it to you)

    image
  • sssailsssail Posts: 1
    I think I have the same problem with some differences. It also appears that others in this forum have some of the same problems. My 1995 S-10 has 176k on it an about three weeks ago it started to sput like low fuel but I had 3/4 of a tank. Trying to keep driving it started to heavy duty stall and then back fire through the pipe. Re-starting it, I thought it would shake the truck apart with back fires and rough running. I thought it was a major problem and stopped and called the tow truck. After about an hour, I helped the tow truck guy and drove it part way up the ramp. This surprised me that it would move at all and it was smooth running. At the dealer they could not find a problem and it ran fine. The mechanic drove it all day with no problems showing up and no error codes. It has been running fine now for the three weeks, about 500 miles. Then yesterday it did it again. Same scenario, started by popping and stalling, a little at first and getting worse. Finally, getting so bad that I had to stop and even afraid to take it into traffic. I let it cool for about 30 mins and it ran but rough. Stopped and let it cool for an hour and it ran all the way home ( approx. 20 miles)(after dark and it was cool) I think I detect a little rough running. I am beginning to think it is heat dependent and it may be one of the computers. I stopped at the local parts place and they pulled up the ignition module that's in the distributor and the main computer. I can replace both for about $400 which is a far cry for what the dealer wants. Am I thinking right here? Does this sound like an answer for some of these other problems in the forum like hard starting and running rough? Which computer is the one that should be replaced?
  • I just bought a 1988 Chevy S-10 with a 2.5 liter 5 speed. My service engine light is coming on every once in a while when I accelerate. I got to looking at the sensor and all that and I found that the knock sensor's wires are cut and that's why my service engine light is coming on. Can anyone tell me where these wires hook up to?
  • sstonesstone Posts: 1
    My, truck goes dead when I turn a corner, could my fuel pump be going bad?
  • drew6drew6 Posts: 3
    Could be a bearing
    I had that problem in my truck, I jacked up the rear end and listened to it.
  • jaazjaaz Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 4.3L.. When i bought it about 8yrs ago I bought a Haynes Service Manual. They only cost about $15.00. This manual pretty much walks you through any problems you may run across. Plus it has saved me a couple thousand dollars by keeping my S-10 out of the shop. The distributor and plugs should be stamped on the engine? Im removing my heads now due to water/oil mixture and everything is labeled in so way. hope this helps.
  • drummomdrummom Posts: 1
    We are looking at purchasing a 1998 Chevy S-10, 5 speed, 4 cylinder. The vehicle that we have found has 170,000 miles on it but appears to be in excellent physical condition both inside and out. It drives beautifully and nothing is leaking and no electrical smell from the engine. The only negative factor is the mileage. Anyone out there driven an S-10 for this many miles? If so, did you have a lot of problems? We only plan to drive it in town, not too many miles per year. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
  • meat01meat01 Posts: 2
    Hello..I have a 97 S-10 4.3 that I bought new. It just turned over 60,000 miles. My problem is...I am getting a "random misfire code'" 0300 per OBD. It almost feels as if I bought some bad gas it stutters so much. I have replaced the distributor cap,rotor button, plug wires, plugs, coil,and coil modulator to no avail. The fuel pump is about a year old. Marathon admitted to some bad gas about a year ago that caused many people to have fuel gauge problems. I had the same prior to their annoucement so I replaced fuel pump and sender. I also have replaced the fuel filter and pcv valved as well. Geez reading this makes me want a new truck..LOL..I change the oil every 3000 miles and also add a can of fuel injector cleaner. The dealer repaired an oil leak a month ago (oil pan gasket) and I have had this miss ever since. No other OBD codes on this at all. The dealer as well as another shop could not find a thing. They claimed the fuel pressure was correct as well. But I still have this misfire code. Any ideas or help on this would be appreciated. Feel free to e-mail me with possible solutions. Thanks....
  • tgoodtgood Posts: 1
    I have a 98 chevy blazer with 160k on it that has been having an overheatin problem. its been running on the hot side from 210-235. a few weeks ago i replaced the thermostat and the problem continued. then i replaced the radiator and while bleeding the coolant it started to run close to 260 so i shut it off. What else could be causeing my overheating problem?
  • borob1borob1 Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 s10(4 cyl.) that overheats/does anyone make a high /flow water pump for this truck ">
  • blazer5blazer5 Posts: 5
    I recently had a valve job and replaced the heads myself. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor, Cat/muffler/pipes, and all filters. When I tried to start it, it backed fired and would not start. Could I have installed the Distributor 180 degrees off, or is their some other problem to blame? Can anyone help with this problem? Thanks!
  • if you figure out what the problem was to the fuel pump powering on when it wants to please let us know,i for one have the exact problem, if i drive my 93 blazer for a while ,the fuel pump wont get power until the truck has cooled off-frustrating - thanks in advance :shades:
  • bikebike Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2000 S10 4X4 with 4.3 automatic and the gas mileage is something else, I get about 60 miles to a 1/4 tank of gas in town. Anyone, is that normal or what, it has 93000 mi.

    Thank You
  • hickboy63hickboy63 Posts: 1
    1994 S-10 Blazer with 159K + miles, 4.3L Vortec 4x2, began stalling and then shut off. Pass experience led to the replacement of CMFI and EGR valve (4 yrs ago), now have changed the CMFI again thinking to correct problem. Still runs rough where you have to step on gas to open throttle. Exhaust smells gas rich. GM code reader gives 22 and 34 error code. Sensors: MAP, TPS, MAF, etc...
    Does anyone have any suggestions? Experienced this problem before themselves? Please help.... :sick:
  • ltc98mdltc98md Posts: 1
    Starting in Feb of this year, my right headlight went dim. I live in a mid-Atlantic state in the mtns where the state road crews love salt to melt the snow - so, lots of rust on the frame, etc. I figured the ground was bad on the headlight on that side, but I'm not so sure. About the same time this happened, my fan switch burned up. Switch has since been replaced. I've tried grounding headlight directly to battery, no luck. My 16 year old son (taking auto tech in school) says it's the multi-purpose switch on the column. I can't believe that this switch could screw up a headlight.
    Anyone with suggestions, I'd appreciate some help. :confuse:
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