GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

gerryp

I had this exact same problem with my '02 Silouette. While trying to troubleshoot I first determined that all bulbs were good. Next I tried plugging the left tail light assembly into the right side and vice-versa. Surprisingly, everything worked fine when the assemblies were swapped. Therefore, I realized that the problem had to be in the connector. A good test is to turn on the signal on the offending side and have someone step on the brake. If the lights start going crazy then wiggle the plug on the tail light assembly and you will probably see that it will start working fine. The problem is the pins are not making a good contact. I bent the pins a bit with a tiny screwdriver so that they would make better contact when plugged in and the problem was solved.

speedingticket

I have the same issue with my 2000 Silhouette (79,000 km.). The piston slap/valve lifter noise is quite present at start up and after a few minutes it will disappear after the engine has warmed up. I see many posts about the engine service being performed however my dealer advises it me it is not necessary. He showed me a newer model and it made the same noise on start up. I was advised no amount of repairs they do to the 3.4L engine will eliminate the problem. The noise goes with the design of the engine. I have seen a class action regarding this issue. Is it me or is GM skirting the issue by saying noisy engines are normal??? :confuse:

link title

alien

Do a search on this board and you find a several postings going back couple years. Check out my recent posting and you'll see that changing out the pistons to the coated service pistons did not correct the problem, only reduced intensity and duration of the rattle. Service manager at the dealer blew me off after I advised him the noise did not go away, he insisted the noise is "operating characteristics of the 3.4L engine." If this was true then all 3.4L engines across the board would exhibit the noise. I doubt that they all do.

I am not sure what to think myself. There are regular contributors to this board who have 100K+ on their rattlevans with no issues from the noise.
As for me, my van is used mostly for suburban/city driving where it is exposed to a lot warm-up cycles when the rattle occurs therefore ultimately I do not anticipate to reach a respectable mileage with this van.

Yes there is class action being pursued against GM but I do not know the status of it. GM is not the only manufacturer that has had to deal with this issue, Ford, Subaru, Nissan are some others that I am aware of.

At this time I would concur with Dirk's early posting of this being a manufacturing tolerance issue. Appears it is either the block or the pistons are not fitted quite correctly.

alien

speedingticket

Thanks for your comments alien. I noticed many who had this issue also, I am so tired of arguing with GM about quality issues, secret warranties and recalls that I am about to give up.

This week I was told by GM that my van is being recalled for the inside door handle on the power sliding door. I had advised GM Canada that there was a recall on this back in February and was told that the door was fine and only Ventures and Montanas were affected by the recall. NOW they decide to add it!! Could it be because it almost tore my 3 year old daughter's arm off????

My next step is to sell the van and buy Japanese...... Reliability aside, I think safety should be their first concern. GM is losing yet another customer here. :lemon:

psimonl

Hello to you all,

Long time reader, first time... blah blah blah...;-)

I've read here a lot of post that help me understand my 2000 SWB basic Montana (75 000 miles) Saved a lot of money ... But now, I never read anything on that one...

When I turn right, and only right, when the driving wheel (! sorry if that is not the correct term, i'm french...) turns 180°, I hear a big TOC coming from the direction under the car. Took it to my trusted mechanic, he heard it while test driving the van, put it on the lift and couldn't see where it was coming from or what it was. Changed both wheel bearing a year ago (400.00 $Can. Deal...) but the TOC started about 3-4 month ago. Had the wheels "aligned" 1 month ago....

This happens no matter what speed between 1 and 50 km/h...

Weird Hey!?! what do you think...

Simon

n7don

Simon, a couple guesses.
1. One of the strut bearings has started to fail. This is a "bearing" at the top of each spring that allows the spring assembly to turn. They are permanently lubricated and generally don't fail. If the noise is present when the van is not moving, you may hear or feel it by opening the hood and turning the steering wheel.
2. The rack and pinion unit is loose. It might be hard for your mechanic to detect but he/she could try tightening the bolts that hold it to the frame.

dirkwork

You might also have someone look at the CV joints if it is a noise that goes with the rotation of the tire at a certain amount of turn of the steering wheel. I'd bet Don is right though about the strut bearing - GM strut noises are common. And you could probably ignore it and not have problems, if it didn't bug you to death. A rack a pinion problem you would want looked at.

Dirk

psimonl

Well, thank you very much n7don and dirkwork. I'll have a look at this. Like always, this community helps my mechanics a lot and also helps my wallet;-)...

Simon

frankensmart

Somebody help!!! I filled my 2001 Montana up with high priced fuel and it showed full on the gauge. Pulled out of the station and the gauge just dropped to empty along with the low fuel light coming on. I went home and unhooked the battery cable to reset something. I then cranked the van back up and it registered full. Drove it for about 100 miles to see if the gauge was actually working again. I now stays of full while the engine is running but when the engine is off and the switch is just on it registers right. This leads me to beleive that it is not in the tank but in some kind of voltage regulator somewhere. Can any give me an idea where to start??? Thanks

speedingticket

Sounds like the sending unit in the tank might need replacing or the float itself is broken. The sending unit sends the info to the gauge regarding the level of fuel in the tank. I have never heard of one going on this model, could be a short between the tank and the actual gauge. The only way to tell is check the the wiring and do some voltage tests.......best left to a mechanic when you are dealing with a fuel tank. Good luck.

dooley

Anybody know what might be going on here?
I was driving my 2002 Venture to work today, and noticed that the vehicle would accelerate gradually without my putting my foot on the gas. Once the van got up to speed after a red light, I had to ride the brakes to keep it there. Then, over the last few blocks, the needle measuring engine temperature started climbing. It was get close to the red (though not there yet) when I pulled into my parking spot.
The van was also diagnosed last month with a cracked air-conditioner condensor, which seems a little early for a vehicle with just over 80,000 kilometres.
If anybody can give me any answers, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.

pbergan

2000 Olds Silhouette

Right side turn signal doesn't flash. It stays on solid. Left side flashers work fine. I've replaced all bulbs and the flasher unit under the dash but still doesn't work.

Of possible interest is that when I click the emergency brake down two notches and turn the key to ON position all exterior lights should stay off. However, the right side marker light (the one facing forward, not the smaller side panel light) is on. This bulb is a dual filament type and from what I can tell the daytime running light filament portion is on continuously any time the key is in the ON position. It also appears brighter than the left side daytime running light.

When I hit the right turn signal the second filament lights up as normal but doesn't flash.

Thanks for any help.

n7don

Take a look at the bulb sockets. I've had to replace two of them at different times because the turn signal didn't work. In my case it was obvious because they appeared burnt on the outside. You might look inside the socket for possible problem(s). The replacements I bought at Autozone required a slight modification to get them in. Hard to put into words but I had to use a Dremel grinder and remove a small amount from the base to get it to go in.
What you describe may be normal. On my 98 if the headlamps are on, the turn signal lamps alternate between the front (DRL) and side markers. If the headlamps are off, both are in sync and the DRL filament that flashes is brighter.
Don't know if it will help but I put some grease on all the bulb contacts.

polaris_dave

info on coolant - good article
Here's an interesting article on all types of coolant.
Since my 02 Montana is off warranty with about 115000 km, I'm thinking of changing to a G-05 (2-EHA free) coolant.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200408/ai_n9453107

fierodough

Anyone have the wiring schematic for the dome light on a 98 Transport?

the dome light will turn on an off on its own when driving or parked on a humid day. I check all the door actuators and I can't pinpoint the problem. I'm thinking it might be the wiring elsewere in the van.

So far all I can do is dissable the dome light with the console switch.

any help would be appreciated.

Cheers!
Eric

n7don

Eric many libraries will have repair manuals. If they have Mitchel's online (CD) I've found their wiring schematics to be very good.

polaris_dave

I just noticed that our fan does not operate on speed 1 or 2, but works fine for speeds 3 to 5. Is this a problem with the motor, switch, or other???
We also have the rear heat which works fine.
It is a 2002 Montana EXT.
Thanks

Dave

psimonl

I have the same problem on our 2000 Montana, but only on position #1. And I had the same on my old 1991 Sentra. And both time I've had the same answer from two different mechanics... "Live with it. It would cost too much to repair..."

Fun hey?!?

Simon

polaris_dave

Hi,
I have the same problem with our 2002 Montana. Did you ever find a solution?
Thanks
Dave

marty5898

Simon, it should not cost that much to fix. It is simply a resistor on the blower motor. It is a simple part to replace. I have do it in several cars. I would be very surprised if it was more than $80. See post #1043 in the Pontiac Montana forum.

mikzke

I also am looking for the directions for programming the remote. Did the posted steps work?

billw

I have a 1999 Silhouette. After you start the engine, the coolant light stays on for about 20 to 30 seconds then goes out. I looked in the radiator and its full. I checked the resovior and it was down about a 1/8" under the cold mark ( so I added about a 1/4" over the mark now. Checked it when it was cold also. This just started happening about 6 days ago. Seems as if the light is staying on longer each day goes by. Any help is appreciated.

offham

The coolant sensor is the problem. This is mounted on the back of the radiator on the drivers side.

chuckmc1

I have not been able to identify the bcd prgm fuse can you help?

n7don

Open the RF door. There's a fuse panel at the end of the instrument panel. The cover just pops out.... the panel is hidden when the door is closed. There's a layout of the various fuses on the cover.

dealfinder

To all considering buying a montana beware.

list of problems ive had in just 1 year.

1) float in the tank (gas gauge was always reading full)
2) wouldnt start fuel not getting to engine(little wire harness underneath van loose.
3) Upper intake manifold ( very common problem for 3.4 liter)
4) Switch for power windows
5) blower motor resistor( 1 to 4 Blower speed does not work)
6) Rain water leaks in from overhead lights
7) Wheel bearing gone passenger side
8) exhaust manifold leaking

The van had only 106,000 kilometers(65,000 miles when i bought it 1 year ago.
I now have 131,000 km(77,000 Miles)

I have spent over 2500 dollars fixing problems on this vehicule. Thats at $ 50.00 per hour. :lemon:

pbergan

The problem is solved.

I turned the key to the ON position in order to light up the headlights and side markers. I then pulled the main fuse for the DRL, headlights, etc. All of the headlights and side markers went blank as expected. I then reinserted the fuse and everything came back on again as expected. I then tried the right turn signal and it works perfectly now.

I can only guess that something in the DRL controller was screwed up and removing power to it reset things properly. It has been working just fine for over a week now so it seems a "permanent" fix.

venturebap

I have a just purchased '99 Venture LS, and a '97 Venture LS soon to be retired. The '97 has rear audio controls. The '99 don't. Question???
Is it easy to take out and install? IE: Is the LS prewired for the control unit??
Thanks in advance, (and a tip o' 'da hat)

thesherpa

I also own a 2000 Montana. It was doing the same thing. Because I had recently purchased it, the dealership dug deep trying to find the cause. They replaced the fuel pump assembly, but the problem returned. :mad: Eventually they announced that they had fixed it, citing a cracked circuit board as the culprit. It ran great for about 8 months, then the problem returned. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump relay. I wouldn't say those fixed it, because it ran for only a few weeks after that before it died again.
Right now it sits in the driveway with the power center disassembled so I can check connections. I read somewhere about a loose wiring connection down by the fuel pump, so I will check that. Also, I will check just about any other wiring connection I can see. If you find out more I would appreciate you posting it. Each time this happens I feel more and more like the Montana is a :lemon:
Good luck.
Steven

peteragold

Anyone had this happen yet? The passenger side window would not go down. Took off the door panel and checked the motor leads. When the switch is pressed to raise the window it gets 12 volts to the motor. When the switch is pressed in the down direction it gets less than 1 volt. So I swapped the switch with another (I have the same van in the Chevy version thinking it was the switch. Still did not work. Took out the window motor (after some drilling and breaking of plastic) and hot wired to a car battery. Ran both ways without any straining or heating up. Is there a relay I am missing or other device which is between the switch and the window motor. Any help would be appreciated. Would a bad master switch on the driver side cause this? How about does anyone know where the window relay is? Could not find in the fuse panel or under the hood in the relay box next to the battery?

doober

Here you go! I bought a remote off Ebay and programmed in less than a minute - works GREAT!!!! For 2001 to 2004 Venture, Montana and Silhouette -
1) Remove key from ignition.
2) Remove "BCM PRGRM" fuse from panel by passenger door - use the legend in owner's manual - NOT the "BCM" fuse but the "BCM PRGRM" fuse.
3) Close all van doors and liftgate.
4) Insert key in ignition and turn to ACC (one click TOWARDS you, opposite of start).
5) Quickly turn to OFF then to ACC within 1 second - fast as you can!
6) OPen and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard indicating in program mode.
7) Press and hold remote LOCK and UNLOCK at the same time for 14 seconds. Chime will be heard when programmed. This CLEARS any old remotes so you have to repeat this step (7) for ALL remotes you want to be coded.
8) Remove ignition key.
9) Return fuse.
You are programmed!!!!!!!

huskerjim

2 1/2 weeks ago, we had to replace the Intake Manifold Gasket on our '02 Silhouette just 2K miles past the warranty. Just the next day, the check engine light starts coming on for the EVAP Purge Solenoid (P0443 error).

The dealer sees no connection between their work and the Check Engine Light that lights up the very next day (it was never on before).

So I ask, is there a connection between the two?

I realize that it is hard to trust the dealer when I make the comment that the Intake Manifold Gasket seems to be the biggest problem with the 3.4 GM engines. His reply was: "I haven't noticed that".

n7don

I believe the purge solenoid sets in the middle of the back of the engine and is one of many things that must be removed when replacing the lower gasket. Unless you haven't had the repairs done, your option may be to go to an independant garage to verify the purge solenoid was properly installed. If the dealer fixed it already, you'd be outa luck in proving anything.

billw

We keep the 1999 Silhouette in the garage. After you drive it in the rain, it leaves puddles of rust behind only on the passenger side front of engine. Checked all fluids and all are fine. But then the rust stains the concrete. Any ideal what would cause this rusting and can I coat it with under protective?

partsman

I'm coming into this discussion a little late sorry. My 2000 montana has been having this problem too, but i've been ignoring it per your discussion ( with the exception of using synthetic oil) but now I've noticed a sputtering when idling like an old car with a bad valve (I have less than 60,000 mi) could this be a valve lifter getting weak making noise when cold and not fulling opening the valve when hot causing the sputtering sound at idle??? No problem under acceleration.

kcourt1

I have a 98 Montana(loaded) which has had the electrical wiring repaired at GM dealers four(4) times with all motors on seats, power doors, vents, compressors and mirrors replaced once. They have never been able to assess what causes the shorts in the wiring. Maybe(hopefully) it is the battery. This I will check and pass this on to both dealers who don't apparently know.Thanks for a possible hint.
KC

cwesleyg

Sounds like it was wrecked somewhere along the way...

cptplt

like others have said its a resistor or something, it was still under ext warranty so they fixed it, labor probably costs way more than the part!

packbacker

I have a 94 Olds Silhouette. I have been enjoying it without many problems until lately. My power sliding door simply quit the other day. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. The manual that came with the mini-van is no help (big surprise), and my Haynes manual does not even mention power sliding doors. I have looked in the read only archive for Power door & lift gate problems, and tried the diagnostics trouble codes procedure listed (though I fear it is for newer models) no joy as I was unable to enter the diagnostic mode.

The only possible help I see in my Haynes manual is in the chassis electrical system diagrams that mention that each motor for power doors or lift gates contains an (ECB) or electronic circuit breaker. However nowhere does it tell me where this blinking motor should be or how to get to it so I can check the ECB

The Haynes manual also mentions a solid-state control module but once again no information on where it might be located or how to trouble shoot it.

The only thing I can add that might help here is that if you leave the door open and place the mini-van in gear the warning buzzer still buzzes.

I have scoured the forums and not found any help for this problem. If someone could help me out I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Gary

n7don

Gary I found this info for resetting the door module. Also there appears to be some connection with other fuses. Have you checked all fuses? I own a 98 Montana so can't verify this works:
"TO REINITIALIZE THE PSD:

1. TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE "OFF" POSITION.

2. POWER DOOR ON/OFF SWITCH IS IN THE "OFF" POSITION, LOCATED AT OVERHEAD (O/H) CONSOLE.

3. MAKE SURE THE SLIDING DOOR IS IN THE FULLY CLOSED, LATCHED AND LOCKED POSITION.

4. REMOVE THE TAIL FUSE FROM THE FUSE BLOCK.

5. KEEP THE TAIL FUSE OUT FOR 30 SECONDS.

6. REINSTALL THE TAIL FUSE.

7. WAIT 10 SECONDS.

8. POWER DOOR ON/OFF SWITCH IN THE "ON" POSITION.

9. CYCLE THE PSD FULLY OPEN UNTIL DOOR STOPS, USING EITHER POWER DOOR SWITCH ON THE "B" PILLAR OR O/H CONSOLE.

10. WAIT 5 SECONDS AND CYCLE THE PSD FULLY CLOSED.

11. WAIT 5 SECONDS AND REPEAT STEPS 9 AND 10.

12. IF DOOR DOESN'T REST IN FULLY OPEN POSITION, REPEAT STEPS 9 AND 10 ONCE AGAIN.

13. CHECK POWER SLIDING DOOR FOR PROPER OPERATION."

docbenway

Wow! That is so weird! It's also exactly what happened to my Montana, so I can't believe it's a coincidence. I guess it's somehting to do with the connection between the brakes and the CC. We'll see what happens when I get new brake lights.

Thanks for posting - I was about to break down and take it to the pirates..

maytum

I have a 2001 Olds Silhouette with a VCR Player. I put a new Battery in it & ever since the VCR Player keeps blowing 5 amp fuses. I also put a 7.5 & a 10 amp in as well, but didn't go any higher for fear of burning wires, etc. The VCR worked fine before changing the battery. I know of no other issues. Any Ideas anyone?

paulie9

I have a 2000 Silo Premier which I've driven several times to the point at which I had to put in 23+ gallons of gas to fill it completely up but never got a low fuel warning indication. How low do you have to drive this van before the low fuel warning goes on? Maybe mine is broke?

packbacker

n7don,

You did it my power door is working fine. Your directions were 100% on the mark.

Thanks a billion.

Happen to know anything about the a/c systems? Mine is currently not working. 1st the door then the a/c and the power window motor on the driver’s side. Guess that is what you get for owning an 11 yo van with 150,000.

Thanks again
Gary

n7don

Thank you.
Our 98 Montana just rolled over 118K yesterday and still runs well. Got a few small rattles but hasn't given me a reason to trade it in!
What's your a/c doing or not doing? Does the blower run but no cold air? .. good thing you don't live in the Phoenix area and no a/c. We've been getting triple digits highs !.

cartrouble4

Please don't ignore those rust spots! My daughter purchased a 1995 Silhouette less than 6 months ago. While driving on an interstate highway last week she heard a loud "pop". Pulled over, found nothing after noticing it was steering a little "funny". Upon return trip, very loud "pop" and the whole right front side collapsed. The suspension/shocks had rusted through the frame. Anyone else hear of such a problem on these vehicles??

packbacker

Yep blower works (however it bliped in and out the other day but not part of the problem I think).

Have a set of gages but not sure what the proper psi is.

Thank god it is r134a which is still easy and cheap to get if the gas is low.

I am leaning toward a electrical problem as when you hit the ac switch and nothing happens ( no clutch noise and no clod air) when you push it again the ac does not shut off (the light stays lit).

Thanks
Gary

n7don

Typically if the refrigerant gets too low, the compressor will not engage. This prevents compressor failure from lack of lubricant. If the system is low or out of r134a, you should try to find out why. If it's a very slow leak, then an ac shop might be your best bet as they will have leak detection equipment.

When you push the ac switch the second time and the ac does not shut off, is the compressor operating and the system blowing cold air?.. or is just the light staying on?

packbacker

Nope just the light staying on. I have checked the gas pressure and it looked like it should have enough gas. i was wondering what the proper psi was to make sure. if it is a leak I will have the system checked because it is most likely a bad O ring seal.

Gary

laceykat

We have a 2001 Pontiac Montana, first the a/c went, and the shop thought they fixed it but it won't hold the a/c charge, so they refunded our money and it is still not working. Now it has a noise, like a motor cycle sound, you can only hear it from inside the van, and noise stops if you turn the steering wheel toward the left while you are driving the vehicle. It is not there while the vehicle is idling only when you drive the van. Has anyone else had this happen, or have any idea what it may be?
:confuse: