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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

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  • Thanks for the link.
    Seems like a logical move to make.

    Charles
  • My 1997 Transport/Montana 3400 died after 177k miles. I ran across a low miles (30k) engine and trans from a wrecked '98 Venture. Installation went smooth with everything connecting as it should. Now comes the problem...The motor has a dead miss on #4 cylinder and it surges 1,000 rpm up and down when under no load(park)with accelerator down. As far as the miss, it has a hot spark, comp. test was okay, installed new injector, checked injector wiring harness. But, still has miss. As far as the surging...I have no idea. Could the two be an electronics problem???
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    One of many possibilities is a vacuum leak(s).
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Have you checked for codes on the computer?

    Beyond that, this is port injected engine, and perhaps that cyl is not getting fuel for some reason. The wiring harness for that cyl might have gotten squished during the install.

    D
  • Hi everyone, I'm new, but this is my last resort before the stealership! My mom's 99 Silhouette drivers side taillight bulbs are all ok. They all light up just fine. Except when you press the brake pedal, Only the right one gets brighter. What could be the problem? It sounds like a relay to me, but Ive got no idea with this particular car. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • I haven't had the computer checked for a code. The check engine light doesn't come on, so I don't know if comp. would show a problem or not. With ignition on, I have power to injector but I was told the computer must send a signal to injector, telling it when to "fire" fuel to cylinder.
  • Hello,

    I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana - the green with graphics we really like the look and miss it in the new stuff. Gave in to the van thing - thought it was ok to do when child 3 came along (my son!) with all the car seats - geez...

    At purchase (65,000 miles), I requested a campaign printout (try it at dealer) and wow - talk about a list! 4 pages long. Many recalls, but the van ran fine and we liked the power passenger door.

    Injector in #2 and #5 started to hang - you get a check engine light and P0300 codeset - cheap fix is to use 1/4" extension and bang on base of injector - cleared for months, but finally replaced. I was running salvage yard at time and borrowed set of injectors from smashed Montana, but later found brand new ACCELL set for $120 - all 6 injectors at 15 lbs/hour high performance at Summit Racing - great deal fyi. Dealer cost is $100 per injector!

    Anyway, power door stopped opening with remote Tuesday - hard on us when walking daughter 1, 2 and holding 3rd child my son. Arm breaking actually!

    Alarm still sounds when door open/not latched and van in gear. Door still opens using handle, but only after sliding for about 1.5 feet open. O/H button and remote do not actuate an open. You can hear first click - probably latch actuator, but no open. P/L also work fine. However, when door is open, both remote and O/H button will fully close and latch door.

    Any advice - I signed up after seeing your comments back and forth.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    It's likely a dual filament bulb and the brake light filament just burned out. Go on www.sylvania.com and follow the various links to see what bulb fits then go to your favorite auto parts store (or Walmart) for a replacement.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    Not sure I can be much help. Our door still works 99% of the time but probably doesn't get the duty-cycle yours gets with the little ones.
    I did look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual and it's more extensive than I could post here however loose wiring seems to be a commom element. Have you cleaned the contact pad on the B-pillar and pins on the door? Also there is mention of a customer satisfaction service bulletin 99016A issued in Aug 2001. Some of the (but not all) symptoms are like you describe. If your 99 has a vin in the range of XD100003 to 167875 it might be affected. Don't know if the dealer would do for free. Also you might try reprogramming the door. Procedure may be in your owner's manual. If not reply back and I'll look it up.
    Good info on the injectors too. Do you have the summit or accell part number?
  • Well, any info would be great - bought the 99 used and don't have much info. THose injectors are 15 lbs/hr saturated(coil) type - Accel 15065 now about $32 each but a steal compared to "new" at dealer 6 times as much! A little more power too in our 3.4L.

    Have always been cleaning pins/pads - CLR breakfree (great for guns US MIL spec now at Walmart believe it or not!) and fine 00 steel wool - keeps door bounce down, but no, something else must have gone - did reset procedure and now door will not even power assist open (you unlatch by hand, then door opens via motor/cable) - only manual for total open- uh oh. VIN is 112629 - so it is there.
  • What is 99016A - what is the service routine, do you know? Something with door actuator? I can call my ex-employees at the salvage yard and have them pull a search on this maybe?
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    If you are a DIYer I found a set of CDs on ebay a yr ago that were used at the dealership level containing the GM service manuals & bulletin for all vehs. from 98 to present. Now dealerships use online. Once in awhile someone is still selling the set for around $50.

    The following is the text of the bulletin:
    "Customer Satisfaction - Power Sliding Door Operation #99016A - (08/29/2001)
    99016A -- Power Sliding Door Operation
    Certain 1998-99 U Vans

    Equipped with Gen II Power Sliding Door (RPO E58)

    THIS BULLETIN REVISES AND SUPPLEMENTS CAMPAIGN BULLETIN 99016 DATED APRIL, 1999. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT SUBGROUPS "A" AND "B" IS INCLUDED AND STEP #12 OF THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IS REVISED."


    The symptoms described in the bulletin are:

    "The power sliding door almost fully closes then consistently reverses to the full open position (reversal after plunger contact).
    The power sliding door will not operate in power mode with any of the switches (console, B-pillar, remote keyless entry fob).
    The door will operate properly in the manual mode."


    The remedy listed is:

    "To prevent the possibility of this condition occurring, dealers are to replace the power sliding door control module, adjust the cable tension, and clean the pad and plunger.............
    and it goes on into more details which are too long to post.
  • After riding in the rear I found that my '98 Olds rear hatch was rattling like crazy, a squeaking noise. It was shut all the way, but our roads here are ROUGH concrete slab types are not so smooth. I kept noticing it getting worse and worse. Finally, when I got a few minutes free and some good weather I took off the rear hatch plastic panel by removing the hatch handle and using a tool to get the 4 "christmas tree" plastic fasteners to release. FYI, these suckers are the biggest ones I've seen, and my tool was bending before they released, I had to supplement with a crowbar/ large screwdriver. The panel has some other style attachments around the window glass that come loose with a little prying. After I inspected the hatch, initially I didn't see anything wrong, but then I pushed on one of the stereo speakers and it was loose. The dang designers didn't use any fasteners to secure the speakers, they have tabs on the bottoms and a metal clip at the top, which makes for rapid assembly of course, but when the foam that was used as a gasket deteriorated with time it let the speaker move back and forth, and the metal clip would 'squeak' 'squeak' 'squeak'.

    The speakers had holes at the top for two screws, but there were no holes in the steel, so I drilled and used some screws to secure the speakers.

    No more squeaking noises! I was beginning to think the van was a rattle-trap, but now its quiet again!

    I was pretty surprised to see decent quality speakers in the van from GM. They had decent cones, and separate tweaters, not the usual junk I'd seen on production cars before.

    I have pictures of the offending speaker mount if anyone cares to see.

    Cheers,
    Dirk
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    I've been gone for a while here! Do some occasional lurking, but no posting.

    Anyhow, van has been good. 01 silo, 70000+/- miles with no "real" problems. Fuel gauge quit working a year or so ago, that's beyond my shadetree mechanic abilities, so we simply fill when trip meter gets near 400 miles...no big deal...

    My other car is (still) a 95 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, which is getting up on 130000 miles - with never a serious issue whatsoever (oh, the nissan eats front tires if you don't have the toe in/alignment done religously--I knew I could think of something!). So my GM product is already not holding a candle to that, but gosh what could, I don't think I could kill the PF if I tried, lol

    but you guessed it, now I'm looking for some advice on something a bit more serious, but thankfully this does not seem to be a "strand me in the middle of nowhere in a blizzard" type problem.

    The silo's electric cooling fans go constantly (right from cold start/startup and they never stop) and my temp gauge does not work. It does not seem to be the thermostat - that would not make fans come on as they are with cold engine. Heater seems to work about the same as always. So, I'm thinking the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). My Haynes manual has a bunch of eloborate voltage/resistance tests, etc. to test the ECT sensor but because of time factor and my lack of skill in that type of thing, I'm just gonna put in a new sensor, IF:

    It's not too high-dollar for the part, AND if people here indicate that looks like a good bet.

    If I do it and that isn't the problem, then (if not too expensive for part) well no big deal. Off it goes to a shop, where I'm gonna have fuel gauge fixed, plugs & plug wires done, and the fan/gauge problem all done at once.

    Well even with this, I can't complain. Great van. I was talking to a lady at work yesterday who bought an 02 or 03 Expedition about a year ago (40 or 50000 miles, same as my van when I got it), and she's had that thing in to have so many little odds & ends taken care of (along with some type of more major trans issue), I just can't imagine.....I thought Ford trucks were built ford tough and all that, lol but I don't know. It could be that she drives like she's in a stock car race or something, but I digress.

    Any advice appreciated!

    take care.

    Oh, btw if anyone is interested, I put on Goodyear Triple Edge tires a year or so ago and they are highly, highly recommended. Awesome on dry, wet, snow and ice and seem to be wearing well.

    J

    So, what do you think?
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    well, I shopped around Checker, NAPA, etc. for the temp sensor, found most were $25 ish but Autozone had it for eight bucks so I'll get it in this evening or tomorrow and I'll try and remember to let the "triplets" board folks know if it fixes it. Could help someone in the future I guess...

    J
  • I have a 2000 Montana with 74000 miles on it there is an intermittant harsh upshift on all the gears. I bought the van used so I don't know if the tranny was ever serviced. Any thoughts on this? Charles
  • mick1mick1 Posts: 84
    Put goodyear assurance comfortread on 03 Olds silh rides more comfortable and quieter than LS's. Hopefully with 80,000 mi treadwear rating they will last longer.
  • anyone take the inside trim off a 2002 silhouette or venture, etc? (I think all from 1999 to 2004 are the same) my mirror (pass side) broke and I got another from a salvage yd, need to take off the hard plastic triangle in the front of the door to access the bolts, to do that it looks like I need to pop off the trim, any ideas / hints, thanks for the help!
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    hi all

    sorry I've not updated on my "problem" above...took it to a shop. The ECT sensor I bought new was bad. Penny wise and pound foolish here. I saw a few sensors for approx. $25, and found one for $8 or 9 and put it in. So now I pay a shop a bunch of $ (don't know how much yet) to tell me I got a bad one. So, my amateur mechanic instincts were correct in identifying the problem, but the execution was flawed and now I pay!

    In summary, if your elec cooling fan goes on and stays on and your temp gauge on dash quits, at the same time, it's your ECT sensor. A 10 minute repair. But get a good one.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Yes. Most likely the Pressure Control Solenoid inside the tranny. Do a search on PCS or "hard" or "harsh" shifts. Many have had this problem, including me. Like most things on these vans, it is not cheap. Mine was about $600 at a small town dealer.
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    well, re. silo guage/cooling fan above:

    shop put in new sensor, they then discovered they had to clear out the "hard" codes from the PCM to make elec fan quit running (according to them, as long as the hard codes from bad sensor exist, the cooling fan will run as a safety thing). They cleared them and it all works so far. Gauge works and cooling fan doesn't stay on.

    What a pain. Clearly some things (more and more things) can't be done yourself at home...no way I could have cleared the hard codes myself.

    One hard code that came back was my EGR valve isn't working right--although van runs well. Mechanic said if it goes completely bad it will likely miss and get very poor mpg. He said the EGR in these 3.4's is not one you just replace and call it good--it's some sort of elaborate, three part setup or something. I will consult my Haynes manual, but anyone here with a 3.4 have any EGR experiences?

    I'm goin' to Dallas in one week. 12 hour drive each way. Will do tran fluid/filter, possibly coolant flush/fill before I leave. Will make sure there's air in the spare, lol.

    Thanks
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Check your brake lights. If both brake lights are out, the CC will not work. Otherwise, the Haynes manual has a pretty good troubleshooting procedure for testing the CC module. It's easy, but you will need a voltmeter.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    The bottom of the oil pan on my 2000 Silo is dripping oil. It's not the drain plug. Anyone have a good guess as to where it might be coming from? Hopfully not the oil pan gasket.

    Thanks.
  • I posted the following post #1822 in April 2005 on the Venture forum. Still have not had hard shifting problems since then. Hope this info helps....

    "I have the very same problem on my 2000 OLDS Silhouette with 88K miles on it. Like you, once, twice or three times a month it would start shifting hard for the duration of a drive. I tried pulling over and shutting off and restarting the engine which did not clear the hard shifting. Letting the van sit for 30 minutes or more did clear up the problem till the next time.

    After a couple of months of observation I noticed that hard acceleration from a standing start while making a turn tends to cause the hard shifting, so now I accelerate gently while making turns and haven't had this problem for several months.

    Hope this helps. Good luck....

    BTW - My Silhouette has the towing package which includes a heavy duty transmission fluid cooler and I changed my transmission fluid and filter which did not resolve the hard shifting problem."
  • A few things have begun to happen to our 2002 Montana EXT. First, we cannot lock or unlock the doors from the switch on the driver's door. I'm assuming it is the switch? The key fob opens all doors fine.
    Next, the alarm goes off, usually during the night, for no apparent reason. I've cleaned the pins on the power sliding door, but that doesn't seem to help.
    Finally, our power sliding door mechanism has a problem. I could not open the door, manually or electrically. I had to pop the door panel off to find that the actuator to activate the power door was not extending fully. This was causing the lock mechanism to bind, so the door could not be unlocked.
    I'm going to try and get the complete door actuator/linkage assy from a wrecker...
    Any suggestions on my first 2 problems?
    Thanks
  • I'm not sure about the first questions, sounds like you might need to trace the operation of the programs for those areas.

    My PSD also got hung up. Popping the door panel is not easy when the door won't open! Not having a tool for the inside handle, I ended up trashing it and buying a new one. My solinoid for the lock was not working right - the latch mech was getting stuck halfway where neither handle would operate. I did a lot of head scratching and testing, drove with door panel off for a few days trying different things, and finally actually took the lame route of just disconnecting and useing it manually. My wife luckily is strong enough to not complain about it!

    What was your experience.?
  • I have exactly the same problem as you with the latch getting stuck half way. I'm still driving around with my door panel off. I'm going to a wrecker today to see if I can find a used acutator.
    I'll let you know how it turns out.
  • Hello all, the wife has a 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette, water pump is leaking , curious as to weather it is a major pain to get to it? Thanks for your help
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    1. Drain radiator. She'll have to open the drain located on the driver's side.
    2. Remove the drive belt guard (this has the belt routing diagram on it)
    3. Loosen (but do not remove) the pulley bolts
    4. Remove belt
    5. Now remove the pulley
    6. Remove bolts holding the water pump on.
    When replacing be sure to have her completely clean the old gasket material off. This is an area of potential leakage.
    My replacement came from Autozone p/n A130-1480 I think it was a new, not rebuilt
    Also would be a good time to have her change the belt.
    Ho Ho Ho!!
    Merry Christmas & Happy New Year
  • Ok,,Thanks, n7don,I will have at it.
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