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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

1596062646579

Comments

  • Actually, the problem was that the battery was not supplying enough volts. The VCR needs a certain amount of power, essentially Volts times Amps. Since the volts were low, additional current (Amps) was required. The fuse "measures" amps and thus blew.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    >The repair bill came to $936 for rotors and pads. The rear brake cylinders were also leaking. I'm not surprised that the brakes were wearing out. I am surprised that I did not get the squealing noise before the brakes ate into the rotors. I've never seen this happen on any other vehicle I've owned. $900 on brakes every couple of years is pretty steep in my opinion.
    >

    Wow, that's incredible amount of cash for a brake job! Good gosh, is that normal? I do my own so I'm not familiar with shop prices, but I can get guaranteed USA made rotors for about $50 each, and the high-end guaranteed for life semi-metalic performace pads are - lets say $30. Rear cylinders require a rear tear-down to replace, but the parts are only going to be probably $50 for both. Even if you replaced both front calipers, parts would only be an additional $100 max.

    I know its all labor, but a brake job on this vehicle is no different than about any modern car, it just flat out ain't that involved. If you got new struts with your brakes, maybe I could see the price. I'd think about complaining about price gauging to the owner if you got some quotes from other shops for same thing.

    If you live near me, I'll do your next one for that much money! :~)

    Dirk
  • HI EVERYONE, I NEED A LITTLE ADVICE.

    OUR 97 VENTURE WITH ABOUT 110K MILES IS ONCE AGAIN CHUGGING RUNNING ROUGH AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. IT IS 1 OR MORE FUEL INJECTORS.

    I HAVE HAD OUR VAN IN TWICE AND THEY SUPPOSEDLY DID A PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING AND A NEW FUEL FILTER, THAT HEALED IT FOR A FEW MONTHS. THEY TOLD ME THOSE PARTICULAR INJECTORS ARE PRONE TO HAVE PROBLEMS AND CLOG EASILY.

    I HAVE RUN FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER THRU THE TANK 3 TIMES IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS AND THAT IS NOT GETTIN ER DONE.

    MY QUESTION IS:

    1. CAN I EASILY TAKE THE INJECTORS OUT AND BENCH CLEAN THEM SOMEHOW SO THEY WILL WORK MUCH BETTER.

    2. IF SO CAN SOMEONE EMAIL THE PROCEDURE FOR RELIEVING THE FUEL PRESSURE, AND REMOVING A GIVEN FUEL INJECTOR, AND BENCH CLEANING IT (IF POSSIBLE)? IF NOT I NEED THE PRECEDURE TO REMOVE THEM ANYWAY BECAUSE I WILL LIKELY SEND THEM IN TO A CLEANING SERVICE.

    THANKS

    4THSTOOGE
    secretagent4thstooge@yahoo.com
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    I bought a set of reconditioned injectors for our 98 Montana from this outfit.
    http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm
    Approx net cost was $150
    You have to take off the upper intake plenum to get to the injectors. If you are a DIYer that would be a good time to replace the thermostat. Much easier to get at with the upper plenum off.
  • Wipers will work at only one speed. When turned off, they will not come back on until the ignition key is turned off and back on. They were working fine until we had unrelated work done on the engine. However, the wipers were disconnected for this procedure. We have sprayed the electrical connection with contact spray unplugging and then plugging again several times. Think this is a little different from other problems I've seen with wipers on the forum. Thanks for any ideas.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Dad and I have a neat tool for fuel injector testing. Its a FI testor and what it does is put a nice pressure gauge on the fuel rail port and then a electronic box hooks up to the injector plug. You pressurize the fuel rail by turning on the ignition (but not cranking motor) and letting the electric fuel pump get everything pressurized. Then, you send some pulses to fire the injector and meaure the drop in pressure on the gauge. If an injector is partially clogged it won't release as much fuel, so the pressure will drop less. Baseline all injectors and you will likely see the ones that are bad and you can only replces those. Pretty neat. Usually its the idle that is most difficult for a bad injector, those small pulses are tough for dirty injectors.

    Also use good Shell gasoline and you will have less trouble :~)

    Dirk
  • Have same problem. Body shop did work unrelated to wipers, but apparently temp. disconnected them. Will only work on 'high' now, and body shop isn't helping.... I hope someone has some suggestions for both of us !
  • At sometime, my 2004 Montana has evidently been cleaned or treated with a product that left streaks down the Charcoal body cladding from the chemical runoff.
    So far, I have tried acid wash, many cleaners, wheel cleaners, abrasive polishes, chemical polishes, the list is quite extensive. I have take it to detail shops and my dealer and the only solution they can come up with is to refinish it. If that truly is the only solution, then I will do that next spring.
    But, since some product caused this staining, why can't I use the same product to stain all the cladding evenly? I just want it to be all the same color and I'm not too particular which color that might be.
    I will try to post a picture that really makes the streaks stand out. It does not look nearly that bad when you look at the vehicle.
    image
    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Charles
  • Hi:
    It's been 5 days and noone has posted a gripe about their Montana. They must either be getting better or everyone just gave up. ;)
    Actually, I was posting to be sure the forum hadn't gone dead. 5 days with no posts is not like any other forums I visit.

    Charles
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Hi, charlesew,

    Since everyone here is apparently out admiring their Montanas, you might want to bring your question to the folks in the Paint & Body Maintenance & Repair discussion -- they're likely to have answers for you.

    Claire

    HOST

  • Thanks for the link.
    Seems like a logical move to make.

    Charles
  • My 1997 Transport/Montana 3400 died after 177k miles. I ran across a low miles (30k) engine and trans from a wrecked '98 Venture. Installation went smooth with everything connecting as it should. Now comes the problem...The motor has a dead miss on #4 cylinder and it surges 1,000 rpm up and down when under no load(park)with accelerator down. As far as the miss, it has a hot spark, comp. test was okay, installed new injector, checked injector wiring harness. But, still has miss. As far as the surging...I have no idea. Could the two be an electronics problem???
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    One of many possibilities is a vacuum leak(s).
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Have you checked for codes on the computer?

    Beyond that, this is port injected engine, and perhaps that cyl is not getting fuel for some reason. The wiring harness for that cyl might have gotten squished during the install.

    D
  • Hi everyone, I'm new, but this is my last resort before the stealership! My mom's 99 Silhouette drivers side taillight bulbs are all ok. They all light up just fine. Except when you press the brake pedal, Only the right one gets brighter. What could be the problem? It sounds like a relay to me, but Ive got no idea with this particular car. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • I haven't had the computer checked for a code. The check engine light doesn't come on, so I don't know if comp. would show a problem or not. With ignition on, I have power to injector but I was told the computer must send a signal to injector, telling it when to "fire" fuel to cylinder.
  • Hello,

    I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana - the green with graphics we really like the look and miss it in the new stuff. Gave in to the van thing - thought it was ok to do when child 3 came along (my son!) with all the car seats - geez...

    At purchase (65,000 miles), I requested a campaign printout (try it at dealer) and wow - talk about a list! 4 pages long. Many recalls, but the van ran fine and we liked the power passenger door.

    Injector in #2 and #5 started to hang - you get a check engine light and P0300 codeset - cheap fix is to use 1/4" extension and bang on base of injector - cleared for months, but finally replaced. I was running salvage yard at time and borrowed set of injectors from smashed Montana, but later found brand new ACCELL set for $120 - all 6 injectors at 15 lbs/hour high performance at Summit Racing - great deal fyi. Dealer cost is $100 per injector!

    Anyway, power door stopped opening with remote Tuesday - hard on us when walking daughter 1, 2 and holding 3rd child my son. Arm breaking actually!

    Alarm still sounds when door open/not latched and van in gear. Door still opens using handle, but only after sliding for about 1.5 feet open. O/H button and remote do not actuate an open. You can hear first click - probably latch actuator, but no open. P/L also work fine. However, when door is open, both remote and O/H button will fully close and latch door.

    Any advice - I signed up after seeing your comments back and forth.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    It's likely a dual filament bulb and the brake light filament just burned out. Go on www.sylvania.com and follow the various links to see what bulb fits then go to your favorite auto parts store (or Walmart) for a replacement.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    Not sure I can be much help. Our door still works 99% of the time but probably doesn't get the duty-cycle yours gets with the little ones.
    I did look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual and it's more extensive than I could post here however loose wiring seems to be a commom element. Have you cleaned the contact pad on the B-pillar and pins on the door? Also there is mention of a customer satisfaction service bulletin 99016A issued in Aug 2001. Some of the (but not all) symptoms are like you describe. If your 99 has a vin in the range of XD100003 to 167875 it might be affected. Don't know if the dealer would do for free. Also you might try reprogramming the door. Procedure may be in your owner's manual. If not reply back and I'll look it up.
    Good info on the injectors too. Do you have the summit or accell part number?
  • Well, any info would be great - bought the 99 used and don't have much info. THose injectors are 15 lbs/hr saturated(coil) type - Accel 15065 now about $32 each but a steal compared to "new" at dealer 6 times as much! A little more power too in our 3.4L.

    Have always been cleaning pins/pads - CLR breakfree (great for guns US MIL spec now at Walmart believe it or not!) and fine 00 steel wool - keeps door bounce down, but no, something else must have gone - did reset procedure and now door will not even power assist open (you unlatch by hand, then door opens via motor/cable) - only manual for total open- uh oh. VIN is 112629 - so it is there.
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