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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana



  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    You can pull the fuse for the level control. On my Montana it's labeled ELC and is located in the panel on the right end of the instrument panel.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Well, after 148k my '98 olds van has started leaking coolant, but its slow ooze, not anything dramatic. Saw some puddle on the right side of the valley between cylinder heads, figure its the intake gasket everyone has talked about. Anyway, thinking of just putting some GM stop leak in it and seeing what happens as its not that bad.

  • bob550kbob550k Posts: 148
    I had the intake gasket fixed, it wasn't cheap at about $800 including a tune up.
  • bob550kbob550k Posts: 148
    I'll pull that for now, I'm thinking I'll put a regular air input from air shocks on the system and just leave the system shut off. I can survive with out the auto feature.
  • eodkideodkid Posts: 8
    Every once in a while (2 or 3 time a month) my van acts like the battery s dead. I checked the battery, charging system, and the starter and all check out good. The car starts right up if I jump it. Is it possible that there is a problem with the security system preventing it from getting power? I am out of ideas any input is welcome.
  • bob550kbob550k Posts: 148
    I have the same issue with the battery dying.

    I went in the garage late the other night and the interior lights were on. Our van is a premiere so the car shuts everything off after 10 minutes or somehthing like that... Apparently this automatic power shut off is not working so we started using the overhead master shut off for the interior lights and the problem has not resurfaced, but who knows if that is the problem, it may happen again in a few more weeks.

    In addition to this the suspension leveling system is not working is not releasing air so I shut that off as well.

    It's been a good van, but it's 9 years old, maybe it's time for a new one.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    Also check the battery cables at the battery itself. I found one slightly loose. Not enough to tell by wiggling the cable but did move when I tighened the terminal. Van's electrical system was dead as you described.
  • kenrivkenriv Posts: 1
    My 2002 Montana heated seats stopped warming.The driver side went first and about a year later the passenger side went out. The switches still light when turned on and the fuse and breaker in the fuse panel near the glovebox are good. How do I find the cause of this problem?
  • I have had the exact same issue with my Montana 2002 heated leather seats over the past year. In my case the both front seat heaters malfunctioned at the same time. Both switches still light, and the fuses are good. I just took my Montana to the dealer and paid $84 for a diagnostic evaluation. I was told that I would need to replace the heating elements in both seats. This will cost approx $500 per seat (parts and labor). This is extremely costly and frustrating. My understanding is that the heating elements on the Montana are known to be very problematic. :mad:
  • I have a 2001 silhouette, with capatain's chairs in the back. On one of the seats, the seatbelt has become stuck around the headrest, in the locked position. I cannot for the life of me get it around the headrest. I also cannot figure out how to get the head rest off. All I've managed to do in my 2 days of trying, is to make the seatbelt even tighter around the seat.

    Any ideas?
  • Did you try moving the seat back and forth, or tilt with the black knob?
  • yes I tried that, but it wouldn't move very far because the seatbelt is holding it in place, I even tried to take the seat out, but apparently you have to fold the seatback down to take out the seat, and the seatback won't fold down far enough (the seatbelt is holding it up)

    I have to say this is by far the most bizarre car problem I've ever had, and would almost be funny if I didn't need to put a child in that seat.
  • gthunsgthuns Posts: 1
    Got a 98 Olds minivan with about 140K on it. Just put new air shocks on it last month. Wife was driving it yesterday and the brake pedal went to the floor. I came and got it, drove it home(real slow) took all 4 wheels of and started looking for a broken brake line. Well I found it, rear passenger side, but what broke it kinda threw me. The coil spring broke about one and a half coils up from the bottom, kicked to the inside and broke the brake line. Anyone ever hear of a spring breaking on one of these? My local dealer says they have never sold a spring for any of the GM minivans. To me this is something that should just not fail.
  • I have same olds with vibration/rolling thump at 30 to 40 mph. Slightly turn left, I get more noise, I must be on perfectly flat road to hear this. If I open the windows I cant hear or feel the vibration/thump. I have replaced axles, tie rods, brake rotors. Now I have looked at Passenger side, hydraulic motor mount. I jacked the engine up 1 inch, noticed the top metal portion of the engine mount is resting on a steel pin lower on the hydraulic/rubber part. Looks like I'll try this next. Any luck on your search??
  • I have 00 olds silhouette, with vibration/thump/noise at 30 to 40 mph, I have replied to message #1413. But I also have the same click that you have. Noticed the click in last few days, inreverse, slight uphill out of my garage. I'm looking at the right front hydraulic motor mount. It is resting on a metal pin on the lower portion, looks like it is hitting when it shouln't. see my posting to #1413. let me know if you found anything, I would appreciate the help
  • I've got similar problem, noise at 30 to 40 mph. but my noise gets louder if I turn left. Is yours like a thump, with small vibration at slow speeds? I need help to find my problem, if you had any luck please let me know.
  • I just had the hubs and tie rod ends replaced. I have not driven it much since, but I don't think the problem is completely gone, if any better.
  • Hello to all, new to this forum. I have a 2004 Venture base extended model with 54000 miles. The manual says to change transmission fluid at 50000 if you have been driving the van hard or at 100000 for normal conditions. I drive the car mostly suburban and rural conditions and have generally been taking good care of it with no serious problems yet. Should I just wait until 100000 or would it be better for the health of the transmission to change the fluid now anyway or would this be wasting money only? Also, what brand of fluid would be best? Thanks for any info.
  • Hi there
    Just had Solenoids changed as the van was clunking but picked it up and the steering is now heavy - any link??
    Any ideas
  • rattlesrattles Posts: 4
    Hi, I am a fully qualified mechanic with 20 years plus experience, my chevvy venture van (160k) ran great and had no noises/rattles or issues. i am having no success in curing a severe top end rattle. If youre sitting comfortably , i'll begin. My wife was driving along and said the van lost power, then it picked up ok, then a bang and lots of smoke. she stopped and we had the vehicle towed home. When i tried to start vehicle for diagnostic purposes, it ran poorly and had a regular top end rattle, like a very loose lifter. After usual diagnostic tests i decided to remove the cylinder heads. The rear gasket was completely shot at #6 cylinder and i noticed #1 chamber was extremely clean, indicative of it leaking also. The sump was filled with coolant. I fitted an aftermarket head set ($270+tax) and refitted heads, new oil and filter etc. When i started her up she ran sweet, no misfire but a nasty rattle(same as before). After little success finding origin of noise i removed inlet manifold and double checked my work. No loose lifters, pushrods in correct place, etc etc. Was told it could be lifters damaged after dexcool entered sump, replaced all lifters($24+tax each), rebuilt and had exactly the same noise. Sent van to local garage to check over. He removed inlet manifold, compared my heads etc to a venture he had in for head gasket repair. He checked oil pressure, rockers etc found nothing, charged me $250 + tax and returned van without refitting any parts. Suggested the aftermarket gaskets may be thicker and i might try having heads shaved. Had the heads shaved and fitted new gm gaskets ($270 Heads + $160 for gm gaskets and of course taxes). Fitted heads again! (yes with another set of bolts). Guess what - still have the same rattle. still sounds like atleast 2 valve clearances are 40 thou too big. The van runs great. have even driven it up the road for a few k. lots of power, no misfires, rattle is audible whilst driving. Any one still awake after reading this and has any suggestions please feel free to respond.
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