GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

dirkdaddy

Some months ago, I told someone I would post the PSD diagnostics from the shop manual. Sorry for delay. I hope this helps some folks out there!

-----

Diagnostic mode #1 sounds Diagnostic Trouble Codes ("DTC's") through the sound of the sliding door alarm. Begin the PDS mode 1 by:

Turn off PSD on/off switch (on overhead in my van)

Close sliding door manually. Ensure PSD is latched.

Press and hold PSD "open/close" switch (on overhead console in my van). While HOLDING this switch, cycle the "on/off" PSD switch (10 cycles or more are required to enter mode 1.

The power door alarm will sound for 3.2 seconds, this means you are in Diagnostic mode #1.

After entering the mode, leave the on/off switch "on". Release PSD "open/close" switch.

DTC's are communicated audibily. Example, number 12 is a "buzz...(pause) buzz buzz". This is one for the first digit and two for the second if you're a bit slow on this.

A long pause, then the DTC's are repeated - until you stop. To exit diagnostics - turn PSD "on/off" switch to "off" position (at least 10 seconds).

Codes:

12 - no DTC's stored - no faults.
13 - Door position fault
14 - controller malfunction
22 - door motion error sensed on actuation
23 - no latch input
24 - controller error/speed sensor open
32 - speed sensor shorted to ground

Diagnostic mode #2

Enter Mode #1
Press and hold the Open/Close button 4 secs
Alarm sounds for 3.2 seconds, twice, indicating mode #2.

Mode two is harder to summarize, but basically it tests for switches like on gear selector, the keyless remote, the ignition switch, etc.

Diagnostic mode #3 is for the Unlatch actuator.

#1 should tell you if you have a major problem.

Perhaps N7 Don could post #2 adn #3 instructions from his book, if Steve doesn't mind.

Good luck,

Dirk

alien10

Dirk,

I am curious to know if your van too exhibits the cold start engine rattle. Due to family finances I am reluctantly starting to concede to keeping it but being somewhat picky about mechanical noises I am polling everybody to see how these rattletraps hold up in the long run.

If your van rattles with 110K and is still going strong that's pretty good!

Other than the rattle we feel our 2000 Montana was an excellent value purchased used.

Thanks,

Alien10

dirkwork

Re; startup rattle

We get the rattle for a minute or two on cold starts. As I explained in prior posts, I had read where the piston fit is slightly on the loose side, but it expands when it heats up and should pose absolutely no problem to long service life IMHO.

I've replaced the serpentine belt, 2 batteries and tires, brakes, a tie rod end and various bulbs, fluids and filters but its really been a great purchase. Wife thought I was off my rocker to want to buy it, but now its her preferred vehicle and I use it 90% of my trips as well as it doubles as a SUV/pickup with large storage space. Also, used vehicles usually already have a stain or two, so when your kid pukes all over the seat or something like that, you're not quite as upset as you don't have that "new car" mindset.

I'm thinking of eventually getting a DVD/Screen system added for long road trips, but we don't need it now (usually fly) and I don't want my kid vegging to videos more than necessary.

Don't worry so much - everything will be OK!

Just keep eye on leaking coolant. These 3.4 motors did have a known problem of intake manifold gasket leaking. Some are fine, other leaks are barely noticable like mine, others like a guy in my office with a Venture go in a gush of steam. Its not a huge deal, about $600 and then you're good to go. Use procedure to fix described in earlier posts on the subject.

Other makes ALL have issues, even Toyota had a engine oil/sludge problem that had them buying a lot of engines for owners in a "silent recall".

DD

vanman1

We have an 04 Montana and it was superb value in my opinion. Yes the Honda Oddy is a better van BUT it would have been about $8-10K CDN more.

Like you, with 2 kids you have to watch the wallet and the Montana does everything we ask and more. Zero issues so far and great mileage to boot.

xt225_92

I recently did an intake gasket replacement on my 2000 Olds Silo and got everything back together and working good except I think I did not replace a vacuum line on the upper intake. I did notice a vacuum port near the alternator that didn't have a hose attached so I put a plug on it thinking that a nipple had fallen off. The controls to the HVAC vents don't seem to work so I am thinking that a vacuum hose it not connected. I looked for a unconnected hose near the firewall but couldn't find one. Anyone have a idea on where the hose comes through the firewall?

dirkwork

I haven't done this repair yet...you are one of the few who tackled it. Its a bit of work isn't it? You are on the right track with the hose, I don't have any advice but look around. I'd also look from underneath if that could help, or use one of those mirrors. Let us know about it and how your repair holds up and what gaskets you used.

Dirk

n7don

There's a vacuum port on the RR upper manifold that does have a hose connected to it. I know this much to be true. Unfortunately my van isn't home to look nor does the manual give a clue (that I can find!) at the routing but recalling it seems as if the hose routing off that port takes an abrupt 180 deg. turn toward the front of the engine. I remember leaving it off and had to redo something to put it on. The 180 was a molded connector. Look under the upper manifold area on the right (pass. side) of the engine. This may or may not be of help.

ohc6sprint

Look at another Venture Van and follow the hose from the nipple back to the firewall. You should then be able to find your hose in that location.

n7don

Just got the Montana back. It's a 98 so the routing may not be the same as the 2000. The hose comes off the port and makes a 180 toward the front of the vehicle. There appears to be a check valve inline right after the 180. About in the middle of the water pump it swings over to the washer bottle and splits into two hoses. Can't see where it goes from there.

ronsmith38

GM Recalling 717,302 Minivans

Thu Dec 23, 2004 09:43 AM ET

 

DETROIT (Reuters) - General Motors Corp. (GM.N: Quote, Profile, Research) will recall 717,302 minivans because passengers could hurt their arms or wrists when opening a power sliding door, U.S. safety regulators said on Thursday.

 

Vehicles affected by the recall are Chevrolet Venture and Pontiac Montana minivans from the 1997-2005 model years, Oldsmobile Silhouette from the 1997-2004 model years, and Pontiac Trans Sport from the 1997-1999 model years, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said.

 

GM is recommending that owners do not use the interior door handle of the minivan to open the door, the agency said. The driver can open and close the door from switches at the driver's position or by using the remote key fob.

 

The agency has received 21 complaints from consumers, including 19 cases of arm or wrist injuries. These include 13 cases of broken bones requiring a cast or surgery.

 

GM, the world's largest automaker, has recalled more vehicles so far this year than in all of 2003.

http://www.reuters.com/newsArticle.jhtml?type=businessNews&st- oryID=7169833&src=rss/businessNews

paulie9

Anybody know what will be replaced or fixed in the above recall? Is it the handle?

ronsmith38

Have not seen what will be fixed. Could possibly be a redesigned handle to minimize catching on hand/arm or clothing.

stever

"Dealers will replace the interior handle on the passenger side and the driver's side"

 

From a Bloomberg news article.

 

Steve, Host

just4fun2

Wow, I am impressed that the plastic door handle wouldn't break before a arm bone. I always believed in GM quality and this proves it for me . Just hope the new replacement handle won't be too flimsy and break over and over again.

4wheelerfive

A couple of very cold weeks ago noticed the Dexcool antifreeze low, I was hoping it was a bad heater core but then noticed a puddle near the thermostat housing - notorious intake gasket failure! The van is a 2000 Chevy Venture LS Ext'd with 160,000 Km's. Anyone know of the average cost to have this done and best place to have it done? (I've heard $900.00 - $1300.00 depending on the shop) Has anyone ever tried the stop leak pellets used for rads and heater cores? I have experience with engine repair and engine swaps so I may do it myself (I'm getting too old for this type of weekend work though!)

dirkwork

In the US I've heard from $650 to $900 for this repair, so for CDN your est seems about right. Kind of cold for this type of work up there (in some parts), hope you have a good garage.

 

There are a few posts on this board about doing this repair, search on it and you'll find them. Its doable but requires some hours of work and a lot of stuff has to be removed to get to it. Make sure you use the new gasket & fasteners & torque in the order GM recommends.

 

good luck.

 

D

branjess

I have read the various posts regarding the wind/vibration noise from the base of my front window directly in front of the driver in my 99 silohuette. My noise does not coincide with steady highway driving or crosswinds rather it occurs during moderate acceleration below about 50 degrees. The black plastic air intake panel is raised about 1/6 of an inch from the windshield on the drivers side right above the air intake vents. I have stuffed foam between the window and the black piece thinking I would stop the vibration with no luck. Next, I taped down the black piece to the window still with no luck.Please advise

n7don

Also try better securing the windshield washer tubing. I split some 1/4" OD plastic tubing and put over the the washer tubing to change the way it lays across the panel. Also I put the foam under the panel on both driver and passenger sides.

I my case the noise was related to higer speeds and wind direction.

jeremy1

I have 111,000 Klm (70,000 miles)on my Montana. We love the van when it's working properly but it is a lemon. We've replaced the transmission ($4,000), AC condenser ($1000), ABS wheel hub ($500), Battery($200). During the warranty, we had tie rod ends replaced, tires keep getting lumpy(three sets so far at our cost of coarse). Wipers have gone out of sink many times. The driver's seat foam was lumpy and needed extensive re working to get it comfortable. The air flow from the front AC/heater is almost undetectable. It doesn't like to start sometimes.

 

I'm actually encouraged to see that most people seem to have had much less trouble that we have. Ours is a delight to drive, smooth, quite, handles well and gas mileage is good for a mini van.

 

We had a 99 Trans Port that had very few problems but many quirks that were fixed in the 2001 model.

We had the buzzing at the base of the windshield on the 99 and I fixed it with foam under the plastic cover as someone else tried unsucsesfully.

 

We are trying decide whether to get something else or another Montana (this one has to go). Either a low mileage Montana or an older lower mileage Odessy.

dirkwork

Sounds like you have had some trouble and sketchy repairs.

 

I take it you have replaced the AC air filter? That can really affect airflow. Ours is not "strong" but we hardly go to 4 even in Texas heat.

 

I think they used some cheap tie rod ends, as mine went too, but it was really inexpensive to replace myself.

 

Tranny, wipers, those should not be breaking, I have not heard of a many people complaining about either (well a few on wipers). Are you sure the of the compentency of the shop doing repairs?

 

Good luck. I heard the Oddy has a weak tranny, and its loud, radio/soundsystem is trash, many people get a pull to the right they cannot fix and not as comfortable, but it is a good van and has great resale, which makes it expensive to buy used, as you probably are aware.

 

Any van that has folding seats into the floor, I'd be suspect of the seating comfort. My '98 olds with leather CChairs and 3rd bench has bulky seats that don't dissappear, but when you have to ride a few hours in them you still feel good, so that's a trade off.

 

Dirk

alien10

Jeremy1,

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles with your van.

 

We got a 2000 Montana w/ 42K on it now, we have put on about 10K ourselves. Should you consider purchasing another Montana or Triplet van I would suggest you take it home or someplace and let it sit overnight to assure you start it absolutely dead cold. The colder the better. This would help you determine if the van has the famous GM piston slap. Even a '02 could have it as a family member has a '02 Monte Carlo with the same 3.4 L and it is starting to exhibit the cold start noise.

Check out the previous postings here, Dirk and n7don have rattlevans as well but they have around 100K on theirs I believe and still going.

To me the noise is annoying as hell.

The intake gasket change was implemented in early '03 maybe?

We have not had any trouble with the AC/Heat, the van is a bit slow to warm up when it's cold

(7 degrees this morning) but I can live with it.

 

We are currently experiencing an occasional "nudge" forward when starting the van on flat garage floor. I have only noticed it a few times so it would probably be one of those "can not duplicate conditions" if I took it to a dealer. Besides I not found a good dealer service department in my area yet. Anybody else had the same happen to them?

 

Good luck.

 

Alien10

n7don

My 98 has 108K now. The cold start rattle is nearly undetectable when the outside temperature is below 50 degs. It's most noticeable when started above 70 degs. This appears to be different than what you are experiencing. I agree it's an annoyance but it goes away after about a minute of warm-up. I'm still using 5W-30 but have "experimented" with various viscosities and oil filter brands but nothing has made a difference.

AC performance and airflow are very good, again contrary to what some are reporting. I live near Phoenix.

sandyriver

Did anyone see the review on the triplets in the 2005 edition of lemon aid car and minivan book (Canadian)?

 

It's brutal. These vans have been relegated to below average, apparently due to recent repair record. The books says dodge and Ford alternatives are better in comparison. (Gasp!).

 

Sandy.

balich

FYI only:

 

Personally I think these vehicles are cheaply made .. lots of rattles, wipers are horrible/lot

of mechanical problems .. lots of little things

breaking. Just a poorly engineered vehicle.

The vehicle feels cheap/drives terribly.

 

After 5 years .. the vehicle will start to

experience the above. The price is competitive

but they will get you in repairs down the road.

 

They will get their money sooner or a later from you. I would never buy this vehicle again.

 

This is one reason why GM is loosing market share.

bob550k

1999 Silo, 53,500 miles.

 

2 trips to the dealer for warranty work, one for bad gas (new injectors and fuel pump required and warranted) the other for a bad electric window switch.

 

one new set of tires

 

replaced front brakes once

 

Rebuilt rear wheel cylinders

 

one broken rear door hatch pull (fixed by zip tie)

 

A battery

 

Replaced VCR $125 (the kids wore out the original. The guy at the stereo store put a extra bracket on the new VCR and no more rattles.

 

Rotors turned several times (mountain driving)

 

Something in the transmission made it shift hard $400.

 

Normal fluid and filter changes.

 

That stuff all seems pretty normal except the transmission thing.

 

I suppose I'll have to have it tuned up and replace the belt someday. We will keep this van for many more years. Smooth, quiet and comfy, it's like traveling by living room! It does need a sound proof glass partition just behind the driver though...

dirkwork

My 98 van (110k +) occassionally rattles a little bit but like I've said before, unless it doesn't go away pretty fast its not a problem, just different expansion rates for aluminum and iron so initial clearances are a bit wide until they heat up. Come to think of it, I think I echo Don's obeservation on the temps.

 

If its 7 deg inside your garage, the tranny fluid is thick at that temp and the parasatic drag is enough to push the vehicle forward a little even though it not technically in gear, but I'd have to say this is probably fairly normal, I wouldn't know however as I live in Houston and a cold day here is below 35 degrees for a few hours at night before it warms back up (was over 70 today in January).

 

GM vehicles, vans included, generally are fairly reliable vehicles with some warts but also many redeeming qualities. Depends on if you want what they offer for the price you pay, there are a lot of choices today. Personally, I wouldn't buy a Chrysler for transmission problems and the Ford isn't much better, my sister had two transmissions on her Ford Minivan before it got to 100k miles.

 

I'd have to check the Nissan or Honda, the Toyota is too fluffy riding for me.

 

To the guy who said the van doesn't handle well you drove one with cheap/bad/wrong tires. I had same feeling as you until I drove one with good michelins.

 

DD

vanman1

Don't believe much you read in Lemon Aid. They guy who writes that doesn't know if he is coming or going, way too many contradictions, especially from year to year. I though CR was bad.

alien10

I apologize I stand corrected on how ambient temperature effects the start-up rattle. Ours sounds indeed like Don indicated in his message. The rattle intensity varies greatly, the familiar "rapping" sound changes to more of a single less pronounced knocking sound when starting it below 40 degrees and the engine runs on fast idle. To me it is still clearly detectable but for lot of people it may go unnoticed.

Did GM ever fix this on the 3.4 engines as they are being phased out I think?

I hope I am not annoying every body with this same subject but I am still new to this van and haven't gotten numb to the noise yet!

 

Ambient temp in our garage has been in the 40s and 50s when our van has nudged forward on start up. Again it is only very occasionally so I won't bother taking to a dealer.

At this time I do not know if the van does it after sitting out in single digit temps during the day as my wife does not always tell me car stuff as it happens.

 

I am thinking about looking into fixing the airbag light as it comes and goes at will. I have done the wiring connection checks under the seat and moved the seat and got it to go out but only to return sometime later. Not sure if the airbag would deploy with the light on.

Other than this so far so good.

 

The OEM General tires are needing to be replaced soon, any thoughts?

 

Alien10

mcgurgd

I have a 1998 Venture with 72,000 miles that had shocks and struts replaced about 2 years ago and the suspension is really bad when I drive over even the smallest bumps.

 

The van rides fine on normal pavement but horribly on even mildly bumpy roads.

 

I was wondering if anyone else experienced this and what they may have done to fix the problem.

just4fun2

Have you checked the air pressure in the tires? My Silhouette is a 2002 and the tire pressure is suppose to be 32 psi. Now, when I have the dealer change the oil they put the tire pressure up to 35 psi. I can always tell if they checked the air pressure after an oil change because the ride is harsh, the tar strips seam like speed bumps.

 

I also think that as the tire gets older the rubber compound changes with age plus you have less rubber tread to cushion the blow.

 

Just a thought.

fishnff

I know, I know. Which Noise? The engine is a bit loud under acceleration, but I can live with it.

 

The problem is a noise which starts at 2300RPM on up. It gets harder to hear as the engines RPM increase. The best I can describe it is a mild "pinging" noise. It sounds like there is a diesel truck pacing me two lanes over. By that I mean it is not too loud, but is definitely there.

Strange that it started after I got it back from the dealer for replacement of steering box and tie-rods.

Dealer confirmed the noise only after I rode with the Mechanic supervisor. Could not isolate. The noise is more apparent from the drivers seat.

 

Any guesses? I ran a tank of premium fuel injector cleaner with Chevron Supreme without any change.

 

Thanks,

Brian K.

2001 Pontiac Montana Ext 1SG

n7don

"Did GM ever fix this on the 3.4 engines as they are being phased out I think?"

 

Seems like I read they started using a coated piston. The engine is still being used in several lines such as the Aztec and Equinox and their brothers and sisters.

 

Tires?? I put on a set of Michelins and they would have gone forever but I hit a curb and couldn't blame it on my wife... she was the passenger! I thought the Michelins were harsh riding and noisy. Not as bad as the OE Generals however. I didn't want to spend the extra to put Michelins back on so I replaced them with BFGoodrich Premiers from Costco at about 1/2 the Michelin cost. Frankly I like them better. Ride is less harsh and far quieter.

dirkwork

You say it rides badly but how? Too stiff? Too bouncy? Perhaps the new shocks are too firm for your taste, most OEM dampers are pretty flimsy and let vehicles bounce too much.

joegriffitts

Did you ever get a resolution to your problem. I have a Montana showing the same signs. I get the fast blinkers when braking, but it only happens sometimes. When this is going to happen, I notice that the Service Traction System light also comes on and the Traction system goes off. I had hooked up a trailer hitch and wired in the appropriate connectors, but thought that might have been part of the problem and had them all removed, but the problem still exists. Is there a simple solution?

wlkam

I have an idea of how you feel. I bought a new 2001 Venture in order to comfortably drive my child around - he is special needs. The van has approximately 167,000 kms. Since I purchased this van I have replaced the AC condenser ($1000.00), both electric window motors ($440.00 x2), the back window washer motor ($600.00), the tires - two sets, the wipers for the same reason you have, the back ticker lights x4, the battery and now I need the intake manifold fixed or replaced. I have no heat and the engine is over heating (this will be resolved when I fix the manifold). The gas gauge is also faulty and every three months the dealer fixes it. The window motors are starting to slow down again just like they did just before they stopped working altoghter, the inside light does not turn off automatically so it must be in the off position at all times and now the electric sliding door (the one I use for my son)does not work and must be turned off. The paint is bubbling on the hood. I am very frustrated as I am on a fixed income and bought this van to help make life less stressful and instead it has been a money pit.

dirkdaddy

Last weekend I replaced the spark plugs on my 98 Olds van with 111k miles. Front three plugs, easy, takes about 8 minutes. Rear plugs. Wow. Scrach head. Read manual. Take off wiper cover, disconnect intake by the MAF sensor. Engage brake, put in neutral, disconnect two dog bone shaped motor mounts on top front, use a cargo strap with ratchet to pull motor to front on its axis of rotation. Struggle to get plug wires off, everything is by feel only. Finally take loose end of strap and wrap around plug wire boot. pull strap and pull up on the plug wire with my fingers and got the first plug boot off. Then tried a lot of things but didn't get the plug to break free. The swivel extensions I had didn't break the plugs free, so I ended up going from around the belt side of the engine and around the other side with right arm and got the plug out. Repeat for other two in back - a few hours work. Old plugs were worn out, had a 80thou gap and were worn looking. Replaced with new Bosch plat. Seems to run fine now.

 

Also had trouble with my Gaberial hijacker air shocks - one sort of "froze up" but Auto zoned swapped it out no problem and changing them was pretty simple, hard part is getting it to extend to put it on.

 

Now we're good for another 100k on my Olds!

 

Dirk

n7don

Well Dirk welcome to the "I've changed the rear plugs on a U-van club". Did mine around 87K and the plugs still looked fairly good. Gap was ~.065". While at it I put on a set of Taylor wires. I did find removing the coil packs and ignition module gave more room. With my combinations of extensions, was able to "break" loose all the plugs. Seems like a couple of them I had to use a small cheater on the rachet handle. The plug wires didn't come off easy. Several years ago I made a tool from an old 8" screwdriver. Bend 1/8" of the end 90 deg. I use the bent end to hook under the boot and pull up.

 

Next project is to remove and inspect the belt tensioner. The belt is not riding fully on the pulley. It may have been this way since day-one and I just noticed it.

vanman1

"Did GM ever fix this on the 3.4 engines?"

 

The engines did get a mod so newer 3.4L engines should not have the gasket issue.

terrehill

How do I change the fog light bulb in my 2000 Montana? Thanks

paulie9

I have a 2000 Silhouette premier. Starter is starting to pause when cranking. My mechanic told me that this is one of the first signs of starter failure. Mechanic qouted me $300 for replacement of starter with 1 year warranty. I can buy same starter for $115. Last time I replaced a starter was 20 years ago. Is it still an easy job as it was then????

just4fun2

Sounds more like the battery is failing than a bad starter. How old is the battery?

paulie9

New battery installed 15 months ago. Battery is ok and so is alternator. Lets say I crank the engine 5 times in a row as a test. Once or twice during those 5 cranks the starter will hesitate and then resume cranking and not necessarily the last starts.

just4fun2

Can't say if it is as easy as it use to be, but here is what the factory service manual for 2002 Silhouette says about replacing the starter motor.

 

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable from the battery.

 

2. Raise and suitable support the vehicle.

 

3. Remove radiator air baffle assembly.

 

4. Remove the starter motor BAT terminal nut and electrical leads.

 

5. Remove the starter motor "S" terminal nut and electrical lead.

 

6. Remove the torque converter cover.

 

7. Remove the starter motor bolts.

 

8. Remove the starter motor.

 

Install in the reverse. Starter motor bolts torque to 35 lb. ft.

 

Use this information at your own risk!

paulie9

Thanks for the instructions. Looks simple enough.

truetoblue

I have searched high an low on this 99 shilouette van for the 02 sensor that is in front of the cat and can't find it any help??

 

i have been under and over and still can't find it.

just4fun2

Should be in the exhaust manifold (the one that is next to the firewall), top side. Not an easy place to see or get at. I am looking at a diagram of the 3.4 engine and that is where it is suppose to be for the 2002 Silhouette.

n7don

Very hard to see and harder to get to without rocking the engine forward..... in the same manner used to change the 3 rear spark plugs. I won't say it can't be changed from the bottom but looks almost inaccessible.

Do you suspect a problem?

jrdwyer

Our 2001 Olds Silo (wife's van) with 40K miles had a few issues that needing looking at so we scheduled an appointment with the dealer we bought the van from. In the past they have been very good for service, but time has not so good.

 

The brake light was coming on and the low brake fluid light was also coming on. I took the drivers front wheel off and looked at the pads. Got out the ruler and measured the remaining thickness. Both inside and outside were still acceptable with the inside thinner at 3/16".

 

The coolant tank level had dropped around 2" in the last two years since we had the intake manifold gaskets replaced under warranty. Plus, I saw a small leak on the passenger side on the gasket.

 

And finally, the cheap plastic clip that holds the hood rod in place had snapped.

 

So the dealer says we need new front brake pads (fine) and quotes my wife the $99 special. She wisely asks if this includes turning the rotors, and he says yes. When we pick up the van we get a bill for $150. The service writer says that the $99 he quoted did not include servicing the rotors. My wife reminded him that she specifically asked this question on the phone. He paused, went to his manager, and came back with an apology and agreed to refund the $50.

 

Regarding the intake manifold gasket, he said they did a pressure test and all was ok. The small leak I noticed was oil and not coolant. And he said that Dexcool will evaporate over time more than standard green coolant and unless it drops quickly, it is not really a problem.

 

The plastic clip was not covered under GM 5 yr/60K warranty plan that came with the van. It is considered a body part. CHEAP!

 

Finally, after doing the pressure test, they reset the oil life meter to 100%. I quickly noticed that neither the oil or oil filter had been changed. He said that this happens automatically when the hook the computer up to the vehicle. Sounds silly to me.

dirkwork

Sounds like I'll have to go order some body parts. My hood rod clip also broke.

 

My Olds bottom cladding clips are about 1/2 broke so its not exactly tightly secured

 

The rear hatch strap MOUNT broke one side, I thought the problem was the strap itself? Wife uses it, I don't. Luckily she's tall and can use the hatch itself now. Probably won't repair or will look at junk yard some future time.

 

Replacing my rear shock that was defective really made the van ride nicely - must have gotten used to the harsh ride when it was nearly frozen up and extra rattle noises.

 

N7don - My buddy has a 2001 and is now experiencing coolant leak, told him of the infamous gasket. My coolant was low a bit too (again), thinking of trying that myself now that I have done the rear plugs. I bet a lot of private shops replace 3 plugs and charge for 6! I guess if you had to do it again, it wouldn't take me that 1/2 that long....

 

DD

n7don

"The rear hatch strap MOUNT broke one side, I thought the problem was the strap itself? Wife uses it, I don't. Luckily she's tall and can use the hatch itself now. Probably won't repair or will look at junk yard some future time."

 

If the strap itself is still good, send me an email: n7don at yahoo and I send a couple pix of what I did to salvage the mount.