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Irv Gordon's Classic Volvo



  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    Oh sure, you can get parts and manuals from Bosch. Try IPD up in Oregon.

    Volvo 122S -- well I don't want to discourage you if you HAVE to have an automatic, but that herky-jerky tranny just kills any fun factor. You'd get so bored driving it!

    Sounds overpriced for what it is but I haven't seen it. For $3,500 it had better shine and look good inside.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info, Mr. Shiftright. New problems tonight with the 242T restoration........ Just completed installation of rotors, calipers and brake lines on all 4 wheels. We seem to be unable to get the system to build up pedal pressure...???... We have followed the bleeding scheme recommended in the manual. Girling calipers on the front and ATE on the rear. We have tried to bleed with the vehicle running and not running...???... Any suggestions?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    Hmmm....are you pressure bleeding? Some cars just won't respond to the old "pump and squirt". You might try bleeding into a partially full jar of brake fluid with Person B only in charge of replenishing the ridiculously small brake fluid reservoir. You just pump from the caliper bleed nipple which is attached with plastic line into the bottle of fluid. Of course, the plastic bleed line must always remain submerged in the fluid.

    This method allows you to give the pedal good long strokes to get all the air out. .

    Another thing...if you've bled and bled and can't get a pedal, you are usually sucking in air somewhere.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Thanks for info. We tried again this afternoon. Still no luck. I'm thinking that there is just too much air in the line being that the system was 100% dry until I got the new calipers and rotors.

    I decided to brake down and get the IPD power bleeder. That will keep constant fluid and pressure going into the master cylinder.

    I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    power bleeders work great....especially good for clutch master cylinders, which can be very tough to bleed.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    OK. Egg on my face. Front calipers were on upside down. In other words, bleeders should always be on the top! Once I switched them air was spewing from all corners. No power bleeder needed.

    Next issue - the speedometer in 1983 tops out at 85MPH. Is there a 120MPH speedometer that will work in that cluster? If so, do you know the part number that would be scribbed on the face? Thanks.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    You know, with 127HP and 7.5 compression in a close to 3,000 lb car, you might be fine with an 85 mph speedo.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Understood... The exising cluster is in such sorry shape I figured now would be the time to install a different one.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    Well you might be able to do this since I think the mandatory 85 mph speedo went away quickly---but it's such an odd bit of compatability knowledge (unlike say, transmission swaps, which are easier to figure out from one year to the next) that you'll probably have to talk to a "pioneer", that is, someone who's done it.

    I guess if I were as determined as you, I'd just go to a wrecker with your car (and maybe a photo and a measuring tape) and just hop from one old Volvo to another until you see a possibility....this presumes of course that their majesties at the "salvage emporium" would even LET you in the yard.

    Maybe one of those "pick a part" places. Not only might you find a suitable swap, but you'd learn how to take it out on someone ELSE'S car!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,575
    the timespan of the 85 mph speedo, anyway? All I know is that my '76 LeMans goes up to 100, so I guess by then they were working down towards it. I've had two '79 Mopars that only go to 85, and my '86 Monte only went to 85. And I had an '88 LeBaron that would register three digits, but it was digital. I dunno what the analog versions would have registered. My '89 Gran Fury went to 125, but it was a copcar.

    That era seemed to take forever when we were going through it, but now that it's a distant memory, it seems like but a blip on the radar screen.

    As for that Volvo, did they ever offer a gauge package, which might have offered a better speedometer?
  • fintailfintail Posts: 32,885
    A relative of mine has a 93 Taurus that only goes to 85 IIRC. I've tried to repress memories of our domestic cars of that era. I remember the 85 Tempo only went to 80 or 85, as I would take it out on the highway and peg it for a laugh.

    My 89 S-class went to 160 (just a little optimistic). The C43 also goes to 160 (this must be a MB standard) but that car might be able to hit it without the governor.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    My 260Z speedo went to 160 mph - about 35 mph over top speed.

    Back in the day, I had a girlfriend with a Ford EXP saddled with an automatic. It would have been lucky to hit 90 mph. We used to get in an argument every time she called it a sports car. I just could not let it go.

    I still kind of chuckle when you hear these young fellows that think any car that does 0-60 in over 6 seconds could not be any fun. They just don't realize how much cars have improved since the days of the Tempo and such.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,575
    So do you guys really believe it's still on its original engine, transmission, etc? Or are they just being sly about it, and that yeah, it may be the original engine, just rebuilt several times? Same with the tranny?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    I find the whole endeavor pointless myself. You can keep ANY car running for as long as you want if you are willing to pour money into it and of course take basic care not to smash it up. Personally, a million miles in a volvo P1800 sounds like hell to me, but....whatever floats your boat...or drives your car....?

    I'm sure it's not the original engine internals but possibly the original block---unless you throw a rod or have a thin-walled block that can't be rebored, you should be able to get 3-4 rebuilds at least, maybe more. And even then you can sleeve an engine and start all over.

    A greyhound bus or Peterbuilt semi hits extreme high mileages, no problem, all the time.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Just finished replacing the engine wiring harness. Need some info pertaining to which wire goes where at the alternator..... The original wires had absolutely no insulation left on them so I can't determine where to connect the new wires. I know the heavy gauge Red cable connects to the alternator. This leaves 3 wires as unknown - red, black and green (all similar gauge - perhaps 16 or 18). There is a devise mounted on the engine to the right of the oil filter next to the alternator that accepts 2 of these wires. The 3rd is a mystery. Any knowledge of this? Also at the starter the new harness has an additional set of wires - 2 brown wires connected to a single connector. Since I didn't remove such a wire I'm not sure if I need this connected...???... Thanks.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    My two cents is to trust one and only one source when re-wiring a car---the wiring diagram for that year. Electrical advice over the Internet, no matter how generously given, is very risky---of course if someone has the exact same year car as you, GREAT! That kind of advice I'd take. I'd do a little hood=popping if I were you. Stop every '83 Volvo you see and beg for mercy.
  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Mr. Shiftright, Thanks for the advise on the wiring question. I did find an 83'242T owner in CA that has restored 3 of them. He was able to give me accurate guidance.

    Now for my next problem - We have just finished replacing the deteriorated engine wiring harness, ALL vacuum hoses, wax thermostat and injector seals. While replacing the wiring harness we also removed, cleaned and re installed the intake manifold and throttle body. Prior to these activities we performed a complete tune-up and replaced the timing belt and tensioner. The car starts right up and runs smooth. The problem is that the engine idles at around 2500 RPM (don't know exactly since the tach doesn't work) regardless of operating temperature. The CIS switch on the throttle body is properly adjusted and the idle adjustment screw is backed all the way out. I have tested the air control valve and it does open and close when voltage is applied. The only other thing I check was the connector at the fuel distribution system. When this is unplugged the idle is greatly reduced but still not right.

    There probably isn't a silver bullet here, but I have my fingers crossed. My repair manual does give step-by-step trouble shooting instructions but I'm looking to save some time - if possible.

    Thanks for all your help!
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