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Irv Gordon's Classic Volvo

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Comments

  • fintailfintail Posts: 33,962
    A relative of mine has a 93 Taurus that only goes to 85 IIRC. I've tried to repress memories of our domestic cars of that era. I remember the 85 Tempo only went to 80 or 85, as I would take it out on the highway and peg it for a laugh.

    My 89 S-class went to 160 (just a little optimistic). The C43 also goes to 160 (this must be a MB standard) but that car might be able to hit it without the governor.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    My 260Z speedo went to 160 mph - about 35 mph over top speed.

    Back in the day, I had a girlfriend with a Ford EXP saddled with an automatic. It would have been lucky to hit 90 mph. We used to get in an argument every time she called it a sports car. I just could not let it go.

    I still kind of chuckle when you hear these young fellows that think any car that does 0-60 in over 6 seconds could not be any fun. They just don't realize how much cars have improved since the days of the Tempo and such.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,051
    So do you guys really believe it's still on its original engine, transmission, etc? Or are they just being sly about it, and that yeah, it may be the original engine, just rebuilt several times? Same with the tranny?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    I find the whole endeavor pointless myself. You can keep ANY car running for as long as you want if you are willing to pour money into it and of course take basic care not to smash it up. Personally, a million miles in a volvo P1800 sounds like hell to me, but....whatever floats your boat...or drives your car....?

    I'm sure it's not the original engine internals but possibly the original block---unless you throw a rod or have a thin-walled block that can't be rebored, you should be able to get 3-4 rebuilds at least, maybe more. And even then you can sleeve an engine and start all over.

    A greyhound bus or Peterbuilt semi hits extreme high mileages, no problem, all the time.

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  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Just finished replacing the engine wiring harness. Need some info pertaining to which wire goes where at the alternator..... The original wires had absolutely no insulation left on them so I can't determine where to connect the new wires. I know the heavy gauge Red cable connects to the alternator. This leaves 3 wires as unknown - red, black and green (all similar gauge - perhaps 16 or 18). There is a devise mounted on the engine to the right of the oil filter next to the alternator that accepts 2 of these wires. The 3rd is a mystery. Any knowledge of this? Also at the starter the new harness has an additional set of wires - 2 brown wires connected to a single connector. Since I didn't remove such a wire I'm not sure if I need this connected...???... Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    My two cents is to trust one and only one source when re-wiring a car---the wiring diagram for that year. Electrical advice over the Internet, no matter how generously given, is very risky---of course if someone has the exact same year car as you, GREAT! That kind of advice I'd take. I'd do a little hood=popping if I were you. Stop every '83 Volvo you see and beg for mercy.

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  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Mr. Shiftright, Thanks for the advise on the wiring question. I did find an 83'242T owner in CA that has restored 3 of them. He was able to give me accurate guidance.

    Now for my next problem - We have just finished replacing the deteriorated engine wiring harness, ALL vacuum hoses, wax thermostat and injector seals. While replacing the wiring harness we also removed, cleaned and re installed the intake manifold and throttle body. Prior to these activities we performed a complete tune-up and replaced the timing belt and tensioner. The car starts right up and runs smooth. The problem is that the engine idles at around 2500 RPM (don't know exactly since the tach doesn't work) regardless of operating temperature. The CIS switch on the throttle body is properly adjusted and the idle adjustment screw is backed all the way out. I have tested the air control valve and it does open and close when voltage is applied. The only other thing I check was the connector at the fuel distribution system. When this is unplugged the idle is greatly reduced but still not right.

    There probably isn't a silver bullet here, but I have my fingers crossed. My repair manual does give step-by-step trouble shooting instructions but I'm looking to save some time - if possible.

    Thanks for all your help!
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