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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions

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  • The check engine light on my 2000 Corolla turned on a few weeks ago. I brought it to Auto Zone, and they ran the check engine light test, but they got no reading at all. They told me something was wrong with either the plug or electrical system. Any ideas?
  • hi all,
    in my corolla 05 when i, lets say in the highway and it happens everywhere, change the gear from 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 and press gas pedal, the RPM just goes up like to 2800 or 2900 and then jumps back down to 2000 or 2200 or wherever it was supposed to be. and then starts inclining as it is supposed to. What do you think the cause is? is it the transmission fluid that i have to change according to the maintanace plan or it might be the clutch?
    Thanks
  • im having the same problem with my 2002 corolla. heidi7, did you ever find out what was wrong? ronrumbaugh@mchsi.com
  • any luck fixing this im having same problem. its not the fob or contacts in the front doors. im leaning toward the door control module under the driver seat. has heidi7 fixed her car? ;)
  • not to worries, it will get better after a long drive, say 10 miles to burn off the excess chemical you have put into the petrol. I also experience the same problem after using carburttor cleaner to clean the throttle valve. The RPM shoot up to 2k but after driving for awhile it is back to normal.
  • i have a 2k toyota corolla /125k mi.. it is using 3 qts or more of oil every fillup. very slight smoking at tailpipe but tailpipe is charcoal black. any ideas of what i might be looking at? is this evidence of the oil sludge issue i often hear about? thanks,jd
  • I had the check engine light come on in my 2000 Corolla last year about this time also. I took to Advance Auto and they couldn't even get the machine to work. I then took to Autozone and they eventually got it connected. It returned a code of like P0171 - Bank 1 Lean. This meant that one my O2 sensors was bad and my engine wasn't getting enough oxygen...or so they told me. This would apparently lead to severe problems if not fixed ASAP.

    After explaining that it would take umteen-hundreds of dollars to buy or replace myself, I decided to check the Internet for a resolution. After a few minutes searching I found that there is a common problem with the MAF Sensor in many Toyota's. I say problem, but it really just has a knack for getting dirty. All I did was take it out, clean with a Q-tip and facial astringent (isopropyl alcohol would work also), and set it back in place. After a day or so, the light went off and I've been good ever since.

    I lost the page that gave me pictures and descriptions on where to find it. I'll have to look after work for a better description, but I know it is located inside the hose that runs from the air filter. You have to unscrew 1 or 2 screws and pull it from the side of the hose, then disconnect the wiring, before taking in the house/garage for closer cleaning and inspection. Be very careful when cleaning with the Q-tip. There is a small circuit tucked down in the plastic unit that can break. Give it a good wipe down and allow to dry thoroughly before putting back in.

    You should obviously not drive your car while this is still out. Check on-line for "cleaning MAF sensor" and there is a ton of info that pops up. I'll see if I can still find the site. Saved me a ton of money and wasn't even what Autozone said was the problem. As a side note, you could also try one of those fuel system cleaners by Gumout or STP and see if that clears out any gunk elsewhere. Let me know if you have any other questions. Maybe another Autozone will have no problems hooking up their machine also? Hope this helps. Cheers!
  • what did you find out about your oil usage problem? I'm having the same problem with my 2000 corolla CE with 130,000 miles. It uses a quart a week. Mechanic said it was the PCV filter- changed it and nothing changed. could it be oil sludge(what's that?) that you spoke of? thanks- Pat
  • dear pat-i dont exactly know what oil sludge is or how the problem manifests itself-there is a lot of postings about it and while it seems to be caused by infrequent oil changes, it is more complicated than that alone-i did get a reply that said to clean the maf sensor? just google that and see what it suggests. my replier said that you could do it yourself if you were careful-jd
  • I have a 1999 corolla. The vehicle works fine while the heater is off; but as soon as the heater comes on, the engine starts to stall out. I was wondering if anyone knows what could be the problem. Would appreciate it!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    I'm gonna take a wild guess on this one and say large vacuum leak under the dash.

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  • rlm55rlm55 Posts: 1
    Have you thought about Brake Dust? You might have your brakes serviced to get rid of dust. If you have wheel covers that are opened it can cause it.
  • Hi, I bought new Michellen wiper blades (24''&18'').I really couldn't find a way to fix them onto my present car.Could anyone please suggest me.Thanks,
  • irismgirismg Posts: 345
    They seem too large! There should have been a guide there to show you which ones to get. I use the RainX brand on my '98, which use 18" and 20". They're pricey but good. I know that doesn't address your Michelin issue, but I figured as long as you're taking them back... :)
  • does anyone know how to disable daytime running light?
  • irismgirismg Posts: 345
    I don't know, but maybe the people who frequent the electrical section could help?
  • tipstips Posts: 1
    as someone else stated: go by the maual and be sure its with or without the filter. i just got an '06 from a toyota dealership and i just changed the oil. i changed both the filter and the oil- it took 4 qts (3.9). i dont have a manual
  • I have an '07 Corolla with the black interior and have noticed that the area on the passenger's side near the glovebox has several scratches. I don't know what caused them-- I am single so I rarely have anyone in the passenger seat. Anyone else have this problem? Any way to "fix" them that you know of? :confuse:
  • dkeaniedkeanie Posts: 16
    what oil is needed for a 1.6 manual petrol engine? i've no idea what type of oil is in the engine, :confuse: can I add oil to top up or do I need to do an oil change?
  • mikie3mikie3 Posts: 2
    Help: Have 160,000 on my 98 my well maintained Corolla CE. Check Engine light remained on but not "flashing" which means "DANGER" I have heard. Two separate tests by two different repair shops indicate either the KNOCK SENSOR may need replacing ($197.00 plus $200.00 labor cost), or faulty wiring is the culprit. Either way it will be a $400 or $500 fix! Then, both shops indicated that no damage is being done to the engine with this condition existing, but, in WA. state this condition will void passing Emission Requirement and I won't be able to get the car certified to drive. What to do, What to do? Can I just clean the existing Knock Sensor? Also, one mechanic indicated that I probably getting 'pretty bad' gas milage because the Knock Sensor is constantly monitering how efficiently the engine is using gas! Anyone, please help me figure this out!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    "MIKE" from Seattle Washington. Thanks ahead of time for your response!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    My book says $165 for the part and 2.1 hours of labor.

    The knock sensor is fitted to the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it.

    1. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY
    2. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD
    3. REMOVE KNOCK SENSOR

    (a) Disconnect the knock sensor connector.



    (b) Using SST, remove the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010



    4. INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminal and body. If there is continuity, replace the sensor.
    5. REINSTALL KNOCK SENSOR

    (a) Using SST, install the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010
    (b) Connect the knock sensor connector.

    6. REINSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD
    7. REINSTALL THROTTLE BODY

    Source: ALLDATA

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  • mikie3mikie3 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 1998 Corolla with 189,000 miles. I know this year has a 'timing chain' rather than a 'timing belt'. My concern and questions is: Should I pay my local Toyota Dealer $630.00 (parts and labor) to replace the Water Pump before it self destructs, or, should I just wait until it begins to leak or completely falls apart? I have no idea how long Water Pumps are supposed to last in this car and if I don't replace it now will it destroy the engine when it does go out. Please help me determine what to do!! Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help me.
    Mike from Seattle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Water pumps generally don't self-destruct...they die a slow death. Warning signs would be, of course, a slight drip of coolant from the bottom of the pump, or a loud grinding noise, or signs of overheating, and before any of those symptoms, a looseness that you can feel in the water pump pulley if you rock it perpendicular to the rotation of the belt that drives it.

    Also that's too much $$$ to replace the pump. Should be about 3.5 hrs (with AC) and $65 for the part, + coolant. I'd guess that an independent repair shop could do this work for around $450 or so.

    Why don't you have an indie shop look over the pump carefully as well as your belts and hoses? If the pump shows outward signs of fatigue and your belts and hoses are wearing out, maybe it's a good time to do them all then.

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  • perdrix1perdrix1 Posts: 1
    I have a Toyota Corolla 2004 with manual transmission and need to know where the drain and filing plugs are in order to change my transmission oil change. I see some plugs but I am unsure if they are the ones. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Just one plug---a filler plug, which looks to be right behind where the clutch operates, so toward the bell housing, on the clutch lever side.

    1. INSPECT TRANSAXLE OIL

    1. Stop the vehicle on the level place.
    2. Remove the transmission filler plug and gasket.
    3. Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.20 inch) from the lowest position of the inner surface of the transmission filler plug opening. NOTICE:

    o Excessively large or small amount of oil may cause troubles.
    o After replacing oil, drive the vehicle and check the oil level.

    4. Check for oil leakage when the oil level is low.
    5. Install the transmission filler plug and new gasket. Torque: 39.2 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)

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  • I have a 2002 Chevy Prizm which I believe is identical mechanically to the Toyota Corolla. It has 53,000 miles. Recently the clutch started catching very close to the floor and occasionally not disengaging at all with peddle all the way in. Clutch does not slip. If I pump the peddle it recovers somewhat. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid is full but dirty. I saw no obvious leaks of hydralic fluid on a quick examination. Are there clutch adjustments and if so where are they and how do I proceed? Slave cylinder? I will be thankful for any advice or suggestions.
    Jerry
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Certainly you should have the hydraulic system flushed out for starters. Gunk in there can impede hydraulic progress.

    You can look but I don't think there is adjustment or it might be very minimal. The book doesn't mention it.

    If flushing doesn't improve your clutch action you might try a new clutch slave cylinder. Even if you have to replace the clutch and this slave cylinder was the wrong diagnosis, you'll need to put in a new clutch slave with a clutch job anyway.

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  • Hi all,

    Am in the process of trying to remove my starter from my 1998 Corolla. I have the Haynes Manual. I've got the bottom two bolts loose and ready to go. But I'm unclear on the top bolt. In the attached I've circled in red what the manual says to loosen and remove.

    Is this the right one? There's also a nut on the bolt. And the bolt head is not the standard 6-sided head. Am I supposed to remove the bolt or just the nut?

    Here is the picture: [img]http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk299/pogamoggan/corollabolttop.jpg[/img- ]

    Also, any tips on removal of the wiring harness. I removed one when I took off the bottom bolt but there is another that seems to be a bit harder to remove.

    Thanks.

    CC
  • nic73nic73 Posts: 1
    My 2002 check engine light is on with a PO420 code. Repaced both O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Still the check engine light is on. Please help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,536
    What coolant can I use to fill up a 2006 Corolla. Is it a specific type? Dexcool? Mixes with all types and colors by Prestone?
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