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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions



  • I'm gonna take a wild guess on this one and say large vacuum leak under the dash.
  • rlm55rlm55 Posts: 1
    Have you thought about Brake Dust? You might have your brakes serviced to get rid of dust. If you have wheel covers that are opened it can cause it.
  • Hi, I bought new Michellen wiper blades (24''&18'').I really couldn't find a way to fix them onto my present car.Could anyone please suggest me.Thanks,
  • irismgirismg Posts: 345
    They seem too large! There should have been a guide there to show you which ones to get. I use the RainX brand on my '98, which use 18" and 20". They're pricey but good. I know that doesn't address your Michelin issue, but I figured as long as you're taking them back... :)
  • does anyone know how to disable daytime running light?
  • irismgirismg Posts: 345
    I don't know, but maybe the people who frequent the electrical section could help?
  • tipstips Posts: 1
    as someone else stated: go by the maual and be sure its with or without the filter. i just got an '06 from a toyota dealership and i just changed the oil. i changed both the filter and the oil- it took 4 qts (3.9). i dont have a manual
  • I have an '07 Corolla with the black interior and have noticed that the area on the passenger's side near the glovebox has several scratches. I don't know what caused them-- I am single so I rarely have anyone in the passenger seat. Anyone else have this problem? Any way to "fix" them that you know of? :confuse:
  • dkeaniedkeanie Posts: 16
    what oil is needed for a 1.6 manual petrol engine? i've no idea what type of oil is in the engine, :confuse: can I add oil to top up or do I need to do an oil change?
  • mikie3mikie3 Posts: 2
    Help: Have 160,000 on my 98 my well maintained Corolla CE. Check Engine light remained on but not "flashing" which means "DANGER" I have heard. Two separate tests by two different repair shops indicate either the KNOCK SENSOR may need replacing ($197.00 plus $200.00 labor cost), or faulty wiring is the culprit. Either way it will be a $400 or $500 fix! Then, both shops indicated that no damage is being done to the engine with this condition existing, but, in WA. state this condition will void passing Emission Requirement and I won't be able to get the car certified to drive. What to do, What to do? Can I just clean the existing Knock Sensor? Also, one mechanic indicated that I probably getting 'pretty bad' gas milage because the Knock Sensor is constantly monitering how efficiently the engine is using gas! Anyone, please help me figure this out!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    "MIKE" from Seattle Washington. Thanks ahead of time for your response!!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,660
    My book says $165 for the part and 2.1 hours of labor.

    The knock sensor is fitted to the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it.


    (a) Disconnect the knock sensor connector.

    (b) Using SST, remove the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010

    4. INSPECT KNOCK SENSOR Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminal and body. If there is continuity, replace the sensor.

    (a) Using SST, install the knock sensor.
    SST 09816-30010
    (b) Connect the knock sensor connector.


    Source: ALLDATA
  • mikie3mikie3 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 1998 Corolla with 189,000 miles. I know this year has a 'timing chain' rather than a 'timing belt'. My concern and questions is: Should I pay my local Toyota Dealer $630.00 (parts and labor) to replace the Water Pump before it self destructs, or, should I just wait until it begins to leak or completely falls apart? I have no idea how long Water Pumps are supposed to last in this car and if I don't replace it now will it destroy the engine when it does go out. Please help me determine what to do!! Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help me.
    Mike from Seattle.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,660
    Water pumps generally don't self-destruct...they die a slow death. Warning signs would be, of course, a slight drip of coolant from the bottom of the pump, or a loud grinding noise, or signs of overheating, and before any of those symptoms, a looseness that you can feel in the water pump pulley if you rock it perpendicular to the rotation of the belt that drives it.

    Also that's too much $$$ to replace the pump. Should be about 3.5 hrs (with AC) and $65 for the part, + coolant. I'd guess that an independent repair shop could do this work for around $450 or so.

    Why don't you have an indie shop look over the pump carefully as well as your belts and hoses? If the pump shows outward signs of fatigue and your belts and hoses are wearing out, maybe it's a good time to do them all then.
  • perdrix1perdrix1 Posts: 1
    I have a Toyota Corolla 2004 with manual transmission and need to know where the drain and filing plugs are in order to change my transmission oil change. I see some plugs but I am unsure if they are the ones. Thanks!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,660
    Just one plug---a filler plug, which looks to be right behind where the clutch operates, so toward the bell housing, on the clutch lever side.


    1. Stop the vehicle on the level place.
    2. Remove the transmission filler plug and gasket.
    3. Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.20 inch) from the lowest position of the inner surface of the transmission filler plug opening. NOTICE:

    o Excessively large or small amount of oil may cause troubles.
    o After replacing oil, drive the vehicle and check the oil level.

    4. Check for oil leakage when the oil level is low.
    5. Install the transmission filler plug and new gasket. Torque: 39.2 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
  • I have a 2002 Chevy Prizm which I believe is identical mechanically to the Toyota Corolla. It has 53,000 miles. Recently the clutch started catching very close to the floor and occasionally not disengaging at all with peddle all the way in. Clutch does not slip. If I pump the peddle it recovers somewhat. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid is full but dirty. I saw no obvious leaks of hydralic fluid on a quick examination. Are there clutch adjustments and if so where are they and how do I proceed? Slave cylinder? I will be thankful for any advice or suggestions.
  • Certainly you should have the hydraulic system flushed out for starters. Gunk in there can impede hydraulic progress.

    You can look but I don't think there is adjustment or it might be very minimal. The book doesn't mention it.

    If flushing doesn't improve your clutch action you might try a new clutch slave cylinder. Even if you have to replace the clutch and this slave cylinder was the wrong diagnosis, you'll need to put in a new clutch slave with a clutch job anyway.
  • Hi all,

    Am in the process of trying to remove my starter from my 1998 Corolla. I have the Haynes Manual. I've got the bottom two bolts loose and ready to go. But I'm unclear on the top bolt. In the attached I've circled in red what the manual says to loosen and remove.

    Is this the right one? There's also a nut on the bolt. And the bolt head is not the standard 6-sided head. Am I supposed to remove the bolt or just the nut?

    Here is the picture: [img][/img- ]

    Also, any tips on removal of the wiring harness. I removed one when I took off the bottom bolt but there is another that seems to be a bit harder to remove.


  • nic73nic73 Posts: 1
    My 2002 check engine light is on with a PO420 code. Repaced both O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Still the check engine light is on. Please help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,713
    What coolant can I use to fill up a 2006 Corolla. Is it a specific type? Dexcool? Mixes with all types and colors by Prestone?

    This message has been approved.

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