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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 96 corolla with 120K miles on it. My check-engine lite came up and after checking with Pep-boys (who did nothing to help me) and Toyota dealer, I found out that the EGR valve, VSV valve, and EGR modulator has failed and needs to be replaced. Also the EGR ports need to be cleaned. The dealer has given a quote of $670 for this job. Is it possible for me to buy these components from the net and get it changed from a mechanic? What other option do I have?

    Problem #2:
    Recently, started getting a sound when the steering wheel is turned and the accelerator is applied. It sound goes off after I drive the car for sometime, or when I keep the a/c on for sometime. Can anyone let me know what this problem might be?

    Thanks.
  • Hi, I have a 2004 Corollar with 19,000 miles. Recently I found the in-taking air is hot even with my heater is off, engine temp is normal, and no coolant leakage, and "recirculating" is off. What is the problem?
  • Just replaced my 1988 corolla wagon engine with the same engine out of another car. The car runs nice now...but....the fuel mileage is horrible on the highway! eats about a 1/4 tank of fuel in a mere 10miles. so something is wrong..but what! could it be the computer? And there is smoke from the pipe, but the engine burns no oil. whats going on?
  • What you seem to be missing is the downshift function (also referred to as "passing gear"), at least when you're in top gear. In other words, pressing the accelerator is not signaling the transmission to shift to the next lower gear, as it should. The fact that taking the overdrive off helps would confirm this.

    Unfortunately, while the repair might be something as simple as replacing a kickdown switch , it *could* require a transmission repair :cry:

    One thing you could try before shelling out $$$ for a tranny repair is to replace the transmission fluid and filter, using at least one bottle of a transmission product made by Lucas(R) (I don't remember the exact name of the product, but I don't think they have more than one product for automatic transmissions). This stuff is significantly thicker than regular ATF, and can in *some* cases postpone the need for transmission repairs. ;)
  • Go to page 114 in the owners manual. You will find instructions on how to reset the light. It's very easy to perform.(I had a hard time finding the info also.)
  • Once I found the bolt it was not too hard to reach. You cannot see the bolt but it is under the right side of the throttle body. Remove the battery box and over flow tank from the radiator. A long extension and 14 mm socket.

    All that work and I tested the starter and it works. Is there any thing I could do to clean or freshen up the starter motor and brushes?
  • Sanjesh,

    I tried cleaning an EGR valve once. It was a scheduled maintenance item on my old '85 Mustang.

    I carefully removed this thing and disassembled it--guess what? It wasn't dirty.

    Because of that experience, I would be inclined to replace the modulator first and wait to see if it solves the problem before doing the rest of the EGR work.

    As far as the VSV valve goes, I'm not familiar with this component, but the usual rule is to replace failed components.

    Just be sure to get a model-specific repair manual and read it *carefully* (as a rule, these manuals are not written very clearly). Try to make sure you can reach all the screws, nuts etc. you'll need to remove with your existing tools before starting the actual work--better to find out ahead of time that you'll need a wrench that's longer, skinnier, has a deeper offset and so on.

    Also, try to get the parts locally, rather than over the internet. (Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone and Pep Boys are the big chains in my area). Very often the few bucks you save over the internet are eaten up by the shipping costs, and if the part turns out not to be the right one for your car it's much harder to return and get the right one.

    P.S. As for problem #2--be sure and check your power steering fluid level!
  • Quite normal. :blush:
  • yl,

    Sounds like your heater is continuing to operate, even when the switch is turned off. :surprise:

    Hopefully, the repair will be covered under warranty. :P
  • Hi all... my wife's car is obviously an '03 Corolla. The driver-side door lock recently stopped reacting to the door lock/unlock switch, as well as the remote. It only moves when opening manually. It makes no difference whether the door is open or closed, or if the engine is on or not. My guess is the actuator is on the fritz, but stranger things have happened. Anyone have a similar or identical problem? By the by... this is my first post, so be gentle! Thanks in advance!

    Steve
  • Did you ever get any info on this? My 2002 Corolla just started doing this and my dealer is telling me to either replace the engine or get a new car? I'm so mad I'm about to buy a Honda.
  • mcase2mcase2 Posts: 160
    Your under warranty at 19,000 miles, why not take it to the dealership?
  • I have a 96 Corolla with same symptoms. I suspect salt water from Wisconsin winter is penetrating and corroding contacts. You can tell it's not the battery/etc since when it does start, the starter runs well. I replaced the starter assembly and the problem was cured. This can be done by a backyard mechanic or any repair shop. If you wish to try it yourself, may i suggest:

    To remove starter: Remove air cleaner (4 clips) and hose (clamp) at carb. This provides access to upper starter bolt. There may be a wiring harness bracket in front of it; loosen and pull back to provide an additional inch of clearance. Bolt can be loosened with 14mm socket, universal, and 12" extension. All the rest is done underneath. Raise front end as needed. Remove cable nut (12mm) and connector (depress protrusion in plastic housing) from starter. Remove lower starter bolt with same tools as above. Remove starter through wheel well (pull back plastic shroud). NAPA rebuilt starter is $110. Good luck.
  • Thanks. Will try. :)
  • Just had my annual safety check/ maintainence and am told the struts need to be replaced and all my brake lights are out (I don't know how I would not have suspected this if true and wonder if it is an intermittent problem).

    I wonder how often struts need to be relplaced. Did not get a quote yet as it was the end of the day and she said they would call today, but she said it is labor intensive and costly, so want to be sure it is time (I have about 86,000 miles on my car).

    About the brake lights. She said it was not the fuse, so they would need to do an electrical system diagnostic. ARe there any other things I can check before (i.e. bulbs, wires, etc.)?

    I just want to be sure I cover the bases and am not sold more than I need (or unnecessary diagnostics). I have been going to this mechanic for about a year and they seem pretty honest and resonable, but I am never completely confident when it comes to my car.

    Thanks.
    :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • Hey board
    My Toyota corolla has an annoying rattle coming from the right hand passenger side door when I drive. Any guesses? :mad:
  • Thanks for the information. My problem #2 got solved by adding the power steering fluid. Itw as almost empty.
  • hey does anyone know how to turn off the maintenance light of a 2005 corolla?
  • Has anyone else experienced this? My Corolla has only 1,500 mi. on it, and for the most part, it drives great.

    *However,* I have found that if I need to accelerate hard at low RPMs, the engine vibrates quite noticeably.

    This doesn't seem right for an engine with *variable valve timing,* but it occurred to me that Toyota may have done this deliberately, as a way of discouraging heavy-footed driving and maximizing fuel economy.

    I am planning to take it in for warranty service :( , but would like to get some input first. Any takers? :confuse:
  • Got a 95 Corolla that has been running fine until suddenly it died on the highway. After getting it home I have noticed that it runs fine when cold. Once it heats up and you apply the accelerator the engine loads up and dies. I'm not sure if I'm dealing with a fuel problem or electical advance issue? Fuel pressure is good and all injectors seem to be pumping out fuel fine. Vacume hoses look good. Its perplexing to me why it can run fine when cold and then all of sudden start failing. No codes have been thrown and no check engine light is illuminated. Any assistance on where to start on the debug of this problem would be helpful.
    Thanks, Jerry.
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