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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • c2cpc2cp Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 corolla s and had the tension pulley go bad it would rattle when in gear during certain rpm ranges so I bought a new pulley with the assembly from toyota and within a year it also went bad. I know there has been alot of problems with the pulleys from toyota. I am going to try a aftermarket part. my question is the problem in the assembly or the pulley? I would hate to have to replace the whole assembly since it costs so much. If anybody knows please let me know.
    thanks
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I know on my 2001 LE the car was recalled shortly after I purchased it for the tensioner. They put a new one on and haven't had a problem. Of course I didn't have a problem before it was recalled either.
  • hello,

    New to the site.... Have a 2004 corolla(54,000 miles) had the squeaking belt- tensioner problem and replaced this(what fun doing this thanks toyota) and it has helped!!! put on a dayco ribbed v belt aswell.. Now I have always had this crazy grinding bearing noise when it is cold out.... Goes away after the car warms up....??????

    Was thinking of squirting wd40 at the alternator bearing then the water pump so see if this goes away..... Has to be below 30 for it to happen thou....real strange Sounds like it is low in the engine.. I cant tell where its from...

    Please let me know if anyone has had this problem or know s what to do or check for
  • Have a 2004 corolla(54,000 miles) had the squeaking sound and replaced the belt- tensioner myself... put on a dayco ribbed v belt aswell now that problems is gone...Use to hate that sound....Now I have always had this crazy grinding bearing noise when it is real cold out.... Goes away after the car warms up....??????Not a squeaking sound more of a hummm o/ grind bearing noise... Does not do this all the time..... Randomly will do this when it is under 30 outside...or freezing temps..

    Dont seem to know what to do or check.... This started at about 10,000 miles never happens in the summer.... only all winter long.... Anyone with ideas guessing its a bearing in the waterpump, alternator or something.... seems low on the front engine when it happens cant seem to pin point it thou..... ????????? dry timing chain???? bearing in there?????
  • The tensioner problem seems to be very common on the Corolla's from what I have heard. My cousin-in-law went ahead and had it replaced at the Toyota dealership he works at under a goodwill warranty. That was 1 year ago and it has gone bad again. So now I have to replace it again. As for the grinding noise it seems to be the starter. Starters usually grind upon startup when cold because the solenoid sticks. This obviously isn't a problem during the warmer months. However, this sticking issue is going to take it's toll on the starter eventually.
  • I had the same problem it was usually the rear more often than the front. I removed the rear drums and clean off all the brake dust and lightly sanded the shoes and drums reinstalled them adjusted them for proper operation and it stopped the same with the front.
  • hey Andy try the ignition module that goes u usually wont get a spark
  • My check engine light came on today and started jerking on my way to work. Worried I stopped by a repair shop on my way to work to see what the issue was. They told me it was a P2716 solenoid d issue, and that my car was still under warranty so to take it to the dealership. They said they would go ahead and reset it for me and give me the diagnostics so I didn't have to pay a diagnostics fee twice. I called a dealership and they won't touch my car until the check engine light comes back on since they need to pull the code on their own diagnostic system for warranty issues. The told me basically to keep driving it and eventually the light would probably comem back on.

    My warranty is up in August. Does anybody know when this type of code will set an engine light again? Is the dealership just giving me the run around? I'm concerned my warranty is going to expire and then the light will come back on.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated
  • I have a 2005 Corolla. It had the Check Engine Light on ever since i bought it. When it was under warranty, the dealer replaced the O2 sensor thee times and the check engine light kept coming on. After, the warranty (36,000mi), the dealer told me to take a hike. Now the diagnostics is saying the main computer is bad which is warranteed until 80K miles. I have 83K miles and Toyota is saying "too bad". Doea anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I would imagine that the light will come on again soon if this problem persists. I might also ask for a notataion to be put in writing that you did bring the car into the dealer for this problem before your warranty actually does expire should the light come again after the warranty does expire..
  • hi all,
    just wondering if anyone here has adjusted the valve clearances on their Corrolla. I do my motorcycles easy enough, but have not attempted any work on the Toyota yet.
    Is it difficult?
    ANY recommendations for a good manual?
    thanks in advance.
    peace,
    michel
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Are you experiencing a problem that would necessitate valve adjustments?
  • stevelstevel Posts: 5
    According to the manual valve "adjustment" involves pulling the camshaft(s) and replacing out of adjustment lifters with new lifters of appropriate thickness - seems if this was ever required you might just as well pull the heads and get valve guides, cam bearings etc...
  • dave594dave594 Posts: 218
    I have a 2002 with almost 100k miles. I hear valve clatter when I start the car up on cold mornings (40 degrees and below) but it goes away once the engine warms up. Should this be a concern and to have the valves adjusted?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,648
    If it goes away in 2-3 minutes I wouldn't worry about it.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    The ticking noise you are hearing during cold morning start ups, especially in winter temps, even 45 degree weather with a heavier weight oil, often results in brief valve clatter noise during initial start up. Generally speaking, valves and overhead camshafts are the last parts of an engine to receive lubrication. The thicker the oil, the longer it takes to coat the metal lobes on cam and lifters. When lifters do not have a film of oil, you get metal to metal contact. Thus if you are using heavier oil in winter time, you will hear the lifters. Try switching to a 5w30 or ow20 if you are not already. Oil will get up to the valve train much more rapidly and keep valves quiet. This noise generally is not a harmful situation as long as it goes away, it's mostly just annoying.
  • Hello,

    just bought a 08 corolla. the brake fluid light is on all the time. the car drives fine. no problems at all. the car passed maryland inspection recently and the mechanic did not comment on the light. the car has about 20,000 miles on it

    i checked the brake fluid and there is plenty of brake fluid.

    What should be done about the light? does it indicate routine maintenance (oil/engine..)

    Many thanks in advance for your help
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    If the brake warning light comes on it could be indicating that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). This light could also be indicating contaminated brake fluid. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on. Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed. Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. There is a sensor in the brake fluid reservoir that could be failing that could also cause your warning light to come on. Regardless, this should be brought to the attention of your auto mechanic.
  • Many many thanks for the reply! I will take the car to a mechanic rightaway!
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    I suggest you take it to a Toyota dealer. Sounds like a warranty issue to me.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Try disconnecting the positive battery cable for a for a minute, or your emergency brake handle/peddle, not released all the way will keep the light on, I had some problem with a toyota pick up, tryed everything, nothing worked, So I unpluged a single wire that plugs onto the master brake cylinder, that is the sender that makes the light come on also. and that did the trick.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Over riding a safety mechanism that is designed to protect you and your vehicle and could possibly save your life is highly discouraged. A brake warning light on a vehicle is the most important indicator on a vehicle and should not be taken lightly. A new car owner with a vehicle still under warranty would be better advised to have a Toyota Dealer solve the issue at no cost to the owner.
  • debjeffdebjeff Posts: 9
    On my 2007 Corolla, when I pull up to a traffic light or stop sign, the car vibrates. I was told by the dealer, that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the car. I took the car to a shop and they feel that the vibration is normal, that the new cars' computer will self adjust for idling. With the old cars you could manually set the idle. Is this all true info. The computer was replaced in the car approx. 1 1/2 years ago. Does this mean the computer is going bad?

    Thanks for your help.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I'm sorry I can't be of any help regarding your idling problem as I can't verify what they are telling you is correct. It seems like your computer was already replaced when your car was almost brand new. What was your problem back then? I'm wondering what it would cost to replace a computer in a Corolla. Do you know what it would have cost had your car not been under warranty?
  • debjeffdebjeff Posts: 9
    The computer was replaced after the check engine light came on. After the car was used earlier, I attempted to start the car and it would not start. After several tries, it finally started, but the check engine light remained on. The dealership ran a diagnostic check. I was told there was a computer concern. My warranty will expire in less than a month. I don't want to have to pay for a computer out of pocket.
  • ive got the same problem... did you ever find an answer?
  • when im driving and pull into a parking space, i hear this chirping underneath my car when im stopped for about a minute. it is only when im in Drive with the brakes on and completely stopped for about 30 secs - 1 minute.

    i put the e-brake on while in Drive and got underneath the 2003 corolla le to confirm the noise and it was there. when the fan comes on, the chirping goes away temporarily, but then builds again until the fan comes on again. its pretty constant.

    i put the car in park (from drive) and there is no chirping noise. its completely gone.

    This noise usually comes only when I put it in DRIVE and press the Break pedal. The noise goes off immediately if I change to PARK. So essentially noise is only when I am at a halt with transmission in DRIVE and the break pedal pressed.
    Any help/direction I can get, as to where that noise may be coming from and what I can do to fix it,is appreciated.

    does anything else jump out at you as being the totally obvious problem?

    thanks,
    smitt
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    I have a corolla with the same noise, I sprayed WD-40 on the Belt Tensioner Pully Bearings, and also belt conditoner spray on the Belt, and that help my noise.
  • It's the belt tensioner. Just replace it with a Dayco model from your local auto parts store. Might as well replace the belt while you're at it. This installation is somewhat straight forward but definitely a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. You must loosen the motor mount on the passanger side and lift the motor slightly. The longer the box wrenches (preferably reversible ratcheting) the easier your life will be. Unless you just want to pay someone to do the install. I don't think I would replace it with the Toyota original part. We had my wife's cousin replace it under goodwill and 1 year later it was already shot again.
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