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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Congratulations on the purchase of her new 2010 Corolla. I think your the first 2010 poster. Keep us informed on how you/she likes the new for 2009 EPS steering. It should be interesting to see if Toyota retuned this steering for 2010 due to the number of complaints they received about it's roaming phenominum. Best of luck with the new car; I'm sure she will just love as I love our 2009 XLE.
  • msirishmsirish Posts: 1
    I gave my 1997 Toyota Corolla to my daughter in LA. She just called to say that the key willnot work. I believe Ihave heard that replacement door keys (not the new computerized one) can be bought at the dealerships. IS this right?? Anyone every have to replace a door/ignition key?? This car is still good, and her main transportation. So, we will need to find a replacement key quickly!
  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    It says automatic headlights on the web site it says (Daytime Running Lights (DRL) with auto on/off feature) Then also (Aerodynamic multi-reflector halogen headlamps with Daytime Running Lights (DRL)

    Go to the site below hope this helps

    Good Luck

    MNF

    http://www.toyota.com/corolla/features.html
  • Due to the design of the older Toyota locks and keys they are prone to failure. I'm a locksmith and repair these all the time. Sometimes you can get by with just cutting an original key. Other times it requires disassembling the ignition or door locks in order to rebuild them. The failure is caused by the split wafers/tumblers inside the lock. There are 2 of these inside all of the locks. They are installed as a security measure but they do more harm than good. I say this because the split wafers/tumblers wear down the sides of the key removing the essential parts need and sometimes it can even lead to the split wafers/tumbles to collapse and trap the key into the ignition. This is rare but not uncommon by any means. So whenever I have to rebuild one of these locks I remove these troublesome wafers/tumblers.

    I recommend skipping the dealer all together. Most of them can't cut a key right to save their life. First lubricate the locks with either WD-40 or TriFlow (my preference) and by all means don't use graphite. Next find a local locksmith (with a shop, this could be a hard task) and see if copying the key will cure the problem. If he doesn't think that will work after looking at the key ask about a code cut original key. If the keys aren't too badly worn he may be able to read the cuts and cut an original. If you can provide said locksmith with the key code number that will be most helpful. It is possible the dealer can provide you this number but the vehicle could be too old. Around here we go with a 10 year rule. If it's older than 10 years the dealer will not have it in their system with the exception of Honda. Your Toyota dealer may still be able to access it though so there is no harm in trying. If you were/are the original owner then it should be recorded on the paperwork somewhere along with the little metal tab given to you on the key ring. Last but not least the key code is also located on the passenger/right side door lock cylinder but you have to remove it from the car in order to see it. If you decide to remove the lock just take it to the locksmith and let him retrieve the code off of it.

    Next if the the key fixes the problem but not completely ask the locksmith how much he will charge to remove the ignition cylinder and possibly the drivers side lock to repair them (usually the 2 most commonly used and troublesome on the vehicle). If he tells you that you will need a new ignition and or door lock (assuming you drove the vehicle to him) find a new locksmith because he probably doesn't work on these often or he is trying to get over on you (most locksmiths are very trustworthy you will find so I don't think this will be an issue) and you need someone whom is used to working on these from day to day like myself (sorry I'm on the east cost).

    If after all is said and done and you can't drive it at all check into having a mobile locksmith come out. Make sure you call a company that is reputable and stay away from any locksmith whom is using a 1-800 number. Go for the companies that have the nice ad's and or have a shop. There are a lot of so called locksmiths out there taking advantage of our customers and most of them seem to be stemming from the 1-800 number ads.
  • sep1078ussep1078us Posts: 6
    Hi, i have a 2009 toyt coroll LE, it is allmost 1 year i brought this and i am in NJ, for the first 5000 miles when i went for serviceing they charged me 60 doll, next 5000 they charged me $ 160.third 5000 they charged me $ 260, fourth again they charged me $ 160. is it every where or only my dealer...Please
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Well it's up to you to monitor what's going on here. Some of the "services" they perform may be optional or discretionary, and you should go down the list with the dealer and specifically delete those items you have found not to be necessary---like "fuel injector cleaning" or "oil additive".

    Also you have the option of going to an independent shop to have these services performed. Just keep a written record.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Just get the tires rotated and change your oil regularly and you'll be fine. Why waste your money on this unecessary servicing?
  • act2047act2047 Posts: 1
    I think I have blown a fuse on my Interior Power supply, The one that Is located In the rear console box. I plug my navigation system in to It, I had to pry a metal spring that was accidentally pushed up into it out, and I think it caused a short. I know where the fuse box is under the dash but cant locate the blown fuse. Anyone know the exact fuse location and what size it is as in 15A, 10A, .
  • mxmurphymxmurphy Posts: 1
    6 months ago I bought an 05' Corolla CE form my high school aged son, from an elderly man. The car had 8900 miles. Last week the check engine light came on and after mush diagnosis my mechanic says he thinks the computer needs to be replaced. Did you have an extended warranty carrying up to 80k miles or is this standard?
  • xsupan0vaxsupan0va Posts: 1
    Hi I drive a Corolla 07. One day I returned to my car in a parking lot and I saw this damage on my car. My insurance is $750 deductible. The Insurance rep told me it would cost less than 750 so I will have to pay for it out of pockect. Can anyone tell me what that part is called and where/how much I can order that part from? I think it is cheaper to have to order myself than from the shop. Thanks for any help!
    These are pictures of the car.
    http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/xsupan0va/100_2467.jpg
    http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/xsupan0va/100_2468.jpg
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    8900 miles???????
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    If your engine light is on and your car is running good, there is no problem, some times the engine light will come on because of a poor wire connection or etc. Try this first, disconnect the positive battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect it, start the car, this may solve the engine light coming on when nothing is wrong with your car. I have done this with many different cars over the years. If your car is running good , do not try to fix it. Also some cars have automatic timers to make the light come on to remind you of maintenence they think you should do, that may really not be needed.
  • Some of the covering on the door by the windows is coming loose on my 2003 Toyota Corolla as well as the passenger arm rest panel covering. Any suggestions? Is this a common problem? Also, the door locks won't work in the car. They are manual and not electrical. The windows are manual, also. Any suggestions for fixing this will be greatly appreciated.
  • Do the locks work outside but not inside or do they not work with the key on the outside as in the key turns but nothing happens? What's wrong with the windows anything? Also are you talking about the lip that/ is up against the glass. I have thoughts that maybe you were locked out or someone tried to break into the vehicle. The linkage could be bent and if they used an under the window tool to try and open it that could explain the door panel problem by the window.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Are you talking about the front fender?

    That's going to cost at least $750, maybe more, at least where I live. The dent has to be worked out, and the fender entire re-painted. Or a new fender ordered, primed and painted.

    But regardless---usually it doesn't pay to make a claim unless you hit $1500 or so. Not sure you'd get that high with this repair. I'm thinkin' $600--$800.

    You'd be better off getting your own estimate just to be sure you make the right decision.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    "usually it doesn't pay to make a claim unless you hit $1500 or so"

    Why would you say this? She has $750.00 deductible, so anything over $750.00 is money in her pocket to pay for her repair.
  • dave594dave594 Posts: 218
    Your forget that as soon as you make a claim your rates will be going up.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Yeah Dave's on it. The $750 in her pocket become $750 out of her pocket in the next 2 years of rate hikes. I said $1500 because that's what I'm told by all the insurance gurus is the estimated break-even point.

    Of course, all this is generalization. It would depend on your insurance company and perhaps on you claim history. But it's risky making a claim for a low amount. It's still "a claim". I know this sucks, don't shoot the messenger :P

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  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    It would be worth talking with the insurance agent about it. Some companies don't treat a claim as "chargeable" if it's not the fault of the owner, e.g. if the car is hit while parked. But then there can be a limit to how many non-chargeable accidents are allowed before the rates go up. If the rates do go up for something like that, switch to a different insurance company. I must get a quote a day in the mail these days. They are hungry for business.
  • I have a 03' Corolla.
    at 2pm, I parked my car in a local parking lot, when I came back to fetch the car around 7pm, the car won't start.

    without plugging in the key, I can constantly hear the flickering sound ( as if came out from the direction lights )

    I got one of my friends came to jump start the car with cables, the electric system seems fine, panel lit up, the radio is playing, but I can't hear any sound from the ignition, eventually the car still didn't start.

    Can anyone assist me on the issue?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Sure could! Sounds like a starter to me.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    "Your forget that as soon as you make a claim your rates will be going up".

    No Dave, that's not necessarily true. This day and age many people have what they call accident forgiveness or many other reasons why their insurance would nopt increase. Even if it would increase for this insured the increase would be minimal in comparison to the potential $750.00 "Mr. Shiftright" is suggesting that she puts out of pocket.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Perhaps, but you'd have to figure the increase over the number of years of the increase. If they jack you up only $250 a year, still in three years you've paid out the $750.

    Insurance companies are about as predictable as a baby with a loaded revolver. They could put it down and go back to sleep or they could fill you fill of holes. You never know with these guys.

    I've spent years trying to plot a discernible pattern to their behavior in various situations and I've never been able to do it. I've seen them write generous checks one day and the same company dig its heels in on paying an extra $500 on total loss and forcing arbitration--even THOUGH the arbitration costs them more than $500!!

    Crazy? Yes, seems like it, but there you go.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I couldn't agree more with that statement. I've seen the same flip flop type of behavior with the insurance companies of my family and friends.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Join Consumer Advice Editor, Phil Reed, and other Edmunds staff for an auto industry chat TONIGHT, Wednesday, 9:00 -10:00 pm/et (6:00 -7:00 pm/pt). To enter the chat, click on the banner at the top of the page.

    See you there!
  • loulou13loulou13 Posts: 4
    I have had my 2008 Corolla about 1 1/2 years. Recently there has been a squeaky noise in the area of the rear windshield. It gets much worse when the weather is hot. I took it in to Toyota and they could not find anything the first go round. I have apt to take back in. Has anyone had similar problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check the rear suspension
  • loulou13loulou13 Posts: 4
    The noise sounds like it is around the glass area when traveling over rough roads.
    Would suspension be that loud inside car?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    yes, the top of the suspension area is right there.
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