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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    I have three pieces of advice for you.

    Stay away from Mr. Lube, have your car serviced at a Toyota dealership. It doesn't really cost any more.
    Find out how to remove the cabin air filter (it's in the Owner's Manual). Remove it and vacuum it clean every 6 months or so. That way it will last you two or even three years instead of one. Make sure that you specify you don't want the dealer to replace it when you take the car in for service, unless it needs it.
    Don't fret over your fuel consumption, it will pick up again next spring.
  • Alrightyyyyyyyyy...I will stay away from Mr Lube types...
    Will learn Cabin air filter removing and cleaning....and wait for next spring :-)

    This time toyota dealership guy told me that on next service (around 22000km) he will change my cabin filter as it will get very dirty by that time. But I will check myself before that...
    Thank You very much and hope it doesn't snow much this winter !!
  • I was told by the dealership and another shop that I need a power steering flush. My 2007 Corolla has 44,200 miles. Is this necessary or is there something wrong with this car? What is the cost for such a job?

    Thanks.
  • That's considering it's all highway miles. Stop and go traffic and a lot of short trips here and there are considered extreme which should be 3,000 mile change intervals. Pretty much all of the manufacturers have been recommending 5,000 mile oil change intervals since around 2002 or so. Regardless I still feel better doing it at 3,000 miles with dino oils and 5,000(extreme)-7,000(highway) miles on full synthetics. Call it peace of mind.
  • There's nothing wrong with the car. They are just trying to squeeze more money out of you. I'd wait until 60k or 75k miles to do it personally. I did the wife's '04 around 70k I believe and that was a little over a year ago. It does need to be done but I think it's a bit premature at this time.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Agree - dealer trying to make extra money.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    way too soon for that. Double it, then do it.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    44,000 miles is about right on track for transmission oil change. However, I highly discourage a flush, just a drain and refill is the way to go. I've herad too many times of trans. malfunction after a flush and refill.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    he said power steering flush, tom.

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  • Hello all -

    I am new to the forum and, therefore, have not read any previous posts. That having been said I just got back from Tires Plus to get the tires on my car, not the Corolla, rotated and while there I asked how much it would cost to replace the rear suspension components on the Corolla, my brother's car. I was quoted $692.xx for 2 struts and 3.5 hours labor.

    Does this sound reasonable?

    Also, while I'm here, in 2007 my brother took this car in because it was jumping slightly and was told that there was a short in the electrical system somewhere. The technicians supposedly did something with the master wiring harness and it quit for a bit and came back. Has anybody else experienced this? How did you fix it?

    I appreciate the help in advance. We're trying to keep this car running for a while since none of us can afford to replace it.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Correct, flush was discouraged and drain and refill was recommended, just my oppinion!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    Hmmm...interesting since your car does not seem to have rear struts, but rather shocks.

    ANYWAY, about $180 for parts (plus tax) + 2.4 hours labor. Here in California, at $100 a hour shop time, figure $450 tops for good quality parts.

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  • Hey,

    New to the forums. Hope this is the right place to ask this question.

    Was wondering how I could go about finding a compatible all-in-one radio (tape, cd, etc) for my Corolla? Is there a process behind it? Do I have to buy it from Toyota or can I get just any-old radio from Best Buy?

    Here's why I ask: Ran a quick search late last night and most of the radios that popped up were really thin in height - does that matter? Will the installation shop I take it to fill the gap in my dashboard? As you can see in the below picture, the radio slot is pretty huge - I'm assuming they'd either have to remove the whole thing and put a thin radio in, or find a custom radio to fit that huge opening? Here's a link to the pic:

    http://img142.imageshack.us/i/toyotacorollacdplayer.jpg/

    Anyway, can you guys give me your opinions on what needs to be done? I'm slightly clueless when it comes to this stuff, so any and all opinions would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    -A
  • Dealer ripoff! It's just a wallet flush service.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    LOL, well said !
  • When I depress the gas pedal hard in any gear, it feels like the engine has gone into neutral for a couple of seconds before the car actually moves. The tach goes from up from about 2000 to about 5000 rpms before it catches. What could be the problem? I have never had the clutch adjusted. The car has about 87000 miles of mostly city driving. Any ideas?
  • Definitely the clutch is slipping. If all city driving that is probably why.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    About all you can do is adjust the free play in the clutch pedal, if there is any. If it's been slipping and you've been driving it like that, it's probably pretty fried by now even if you should get it to adjust a bit. Hydraulic clutch systems don't have much adjustment capabilities.

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  • So, are you saying that the clutch needs to be replaced? If so, how much? I live in Boston proper.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    Probably about 6 hours labor + a "clutch kit" (pressure plate, disc and throw out bearing and pilot bearing). If they have to remove the flywheel to resurface it, that's a little more time but not much.

    Here's a sampleCLUTCH KIT on the internet, but you'll probably be charged more due to mark-up at the repair shop.

    Looks like a $750--$900 job, something like that.

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  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Yes, needs clutch.
  • _sam_sam Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Corolla with approx. 19K miles on it (hardly drive it). Next month it will complete 4 years of purchase. I haven't had a 30 K service for the car although I have had all the oil changes/ other services very regularly.

    1. How does it work I mean the services should be done by miles or by time or whichever comes first? I am not too knowledgeable about cars so can't do the oil change etc etc on my own but at the same time , its the only car in the household so don't want it to stop on me hence I want to play it safe. Any advice should I wait or get the 30 K service done now ?
    2. The dealer quoted almost $450 for the 30 K service - Is it a good/fair price for the Washington DC region (any toyota dealers recommendations in the DC area)

    Thanks in advance for all your help.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    See the owner's manual maintenance guide that came with your car. It will tell you what needs to be done and when. Basically, it gives you a mileage and a length of time, and you do whichever comes first. For example, it may tell you to change the oil at every 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

    For 30k miles on a 2006 Corolla, I would change the cabin air filter, engine air filter, oil, and rotate tires. I think that's all that needs to be done, but again, check your owner's manual to be certain, or you can go to Toyota.com and it will tell you, maybe even Edmunds has it. The $450 is a rip - just have someone do what the owner's manual tells you, and you will save money. If you go to a good independent mechanic, you will be fine, and your wallet will too. Just get a good receipt saying what was done, and I recommend using Toyota parts, but you don't have to.
  • ybertybert Posts: 1
    08 corolla buzzing sound under rear of car parked in garage key off last about 2 min. not offten ???
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    It is normal - see your owner's manual. It is something about checking the fuel system - I can't remember for certain.
  • I bought a 96 Corolla looking to be in excellent shape 2.5 years ago (Apr 07) but did not get any maintenance history from seller - who bought it at auction in PA. (I live in Balt. area.) The car had 110K miles on her and I put another 45K on since then, total 155K now. I was talked into a coolant flush (not drain and fill) and also a transmission flush. The engine began idling REAL rough as soon as I turned it on after the transmission was flushed, and it did not get any better over a couple weeks so they ended up flushing it out twice more, finally putting in the best fluid, before it idled ALMOST as smoothly as before the first flushing. After having that problem, I am afraid now to get the engine flushed, even though it has been recommended by The Lube Center the past 6 times I have been there for an oil change, every 3 months or so! I am afraid of kicking up some sludge that is probably happily resting at the bottom of the engine - for now. Will bet it has been 60K miles since it was flushed last, if at all. Should I let them do it?

    Also, I have been waiting until my gas tank is on empty before filling it. Is this hard on the catalytic converter or bad for the car in any way? Is there anything I should do to take care of that expensive, essential part? Being out of work - and needing to pass an emissions inspection in about 6 months, I want to avoid trouble ahead if possible! Thank you all for any advice given.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    You worry way too much and spend your hard earned dollars unneccesarily.. Sounds like you got yourself a nice little used Corolla there. Stop trying to flush her to death. Drive her and enjoy her. And fill her tank when ever you feel like it. DON'T FLUSH ANYTHING ever, unless it's absolutely necessary due to some other problem that warrants it. Drain and refill is your best bet on all items you mentioned.
    With regular usage that Cat. should last you the life of the car. I have an 1986 Tercel and a 92 Corolla with the original Cats. on them yet.
  • Tom, thanks for the advice, but I want to be sure I understand. Are you saying I do not need to flush the engine, like ever? What about sludge build-up? She has started to burn oil, and I think this means the engine is gunking up.

    Because she started to burn oil and I never worried about this, I almost ran out of oil once! Was 4 qts. down in 3 months. So, I have been having them put some Lucas additive (1/2 bottle) in with every oil change the past few months. She now burns less, about 3/4 qt per month. I just go every month to The Lube Center, and they top it off at no charge and do an oil change every 3rd month. They told me not to waste money on a synthetic oil at this stage, that it would probably encourage leaks - they found a very minor one. I am hoping the Lucas stuff will help clean the engine over time. Is this all I should be doing to keep the engine healthy? I get no less than 30 mpg and 37 on the highway in summer.
  • I have an '08 S with just under 15K miles. I hear a creaking sound from the rear quarter panel area mostly when driving over uneven surfaces, especially during turns.
    I have a moonroof but the sound doesn' t seem to be coming from there. I've heard it on the left and right sides depending on which way the body is being flexed. If I drive diagonally over a speed bump slowly, I can reproduce the sound. I tried opening the rear doors and trunk as I do this and it is still there. It is still under warranty but I would like to get an idea of what it might be before I take it in and have them start tearing the car apart. Could it be flexing in the rear roof pillars caused by the lack of rigidity from the moonroof? If I push the rear of the car sideways back and forth or try to bounce it up and down, I can't reproduce the sound. Usually don't hear it driving straight and hitting bumps.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    Nothing in a can will stop oil burning. That's a function of engine wear. If your car were burning oil due to being gunked up, the damage would already be irreparable, as the thick gunk would have plugged vital oil passages.

    I agree, flushing the engine is a waste of money, IMO, if not indeed risky business. I'm not keen on washing the interiors of engines squeeky clean.

    Just regular oil changes, or switching to synthetic oil and longer changes, should be all you'd need.

    There's also no credible proof that synthetic oil causes engines to leak. Probably when it does happen, it is correlation (some other condition) not causation.

    Of course, being expensive, synthetic oil might be costly to burn.

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