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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • kt6rkt6r Posts: 6
    The ignition coils are adjacent to the spark plugs. What are the steps to access and remove the spark plugs? What are the obstacles? What tools are required? How do you remove the wire connection to the top of the spark plug? Any special tools or techniques involved?
    Please help. My car is a 2005 Toyota Corolla LE with the 1ZZ-FE engine.
  • I have a 1997 Corolla 1.8 Automatic that I bought a few days back. It has 117K miles now. WHen I slow down, or when I accelerate from lower speeds, I feel a flapping noise (like a drum beat) coming..probably from the front end- maybe from the passenger side...or could be the center. When at high speeds also I feel the sound exists, but because of highway noise I cannot hear it very well as I do at lower speeds.
    Any ideas?
  • 2001 toyota corolla s, 128k I have had this car for about 6 months. On occasion when I am slowing, stopping and then make a turn (usually right turns). There is a low dragging or faint grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side (wheel area), sounds almost like the brake is sticking. I don't notice any driveability issue. I only notice it when i am turning. Also a seperate issue, I have been getting the CEL with randumb codes; P0171(to lean), P0420(catalyst below efficiency). As far as the codes, I have done some research it sounds like these are just emission based codes and really don't affect driveability. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first Toyota!
  • Ok so I went to a small shop to get new tires and to have an alignment done and an oil change.

    So I turn the car on after they are done and 1) they didn't reset whatever they need to reset when they did the oil change, so my "maintenance required" light was still on.

    ALSO there were 2 other lights on now. There was the "VSC OFF" light was flashing and then I don't know what the technical name for it is, but its the light with the car thats swerving was on.

    So I go back inside and tell them that all these lights were on, and they just told me "Oh it just needs to be reset"...but they wouldn't reset it.....And I've had an alignment done before and nothing had to be reset.

    So I went to Toyota to ask them about the lights. They reset the maintenance required light, but they said they had no idea why the other 2 lights were on. They said they would have to do a test and then a code would come back and then they would know what the problem is. But they couldnt do it that day, so I'm going in on Monday.

    So THEN I had to bring it back to the original small shop because my alignment was still a little off, but to the opposite side. So I get there and tell them. The guy goes in the car and then he tells me he needs me to hear something. So I get in the car, and he starts driving. And now my car is making this weird humming noise. The guy said it was more then likely the wheel bearings. (which are still under warranty thankfully)

    So my question is, do you think these people at this small shop could have done something to damage my car by doing an alignment and/or changing the tires?

    It just seems really odd to me that all of a sudden all these problems are coming up.

    In addition, a few months ago when we had are first snowfall, I did go off the road into a small ditch. I brought it to Toyota to have them look at the car to make sure there was nothing wrong, and they said there wasn't.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Well first off you might get a better response to your question if you post on the existing thread called "Corolla Maintenance and Repair". Anyway, a bigger question is why the multiple wheel alignments, tire replacement and wheel bearings on a brand new Corolla? When you say a "small shop" is this a Toyota dealer? I would say it's very possible that this small shop does not even know how to reset your warning lights. I really think this shop is really trying to take you for all they can. Take it back to the Toyota dealer that reset the "Maintenance light required"and demand that they reset the other two lights or at least find out why they are on. Of course I'm assuming that your Corolla is still under warranty to be so insistent.
  • I've had the car for a year and a half and I've already put 40,000 miles on it. My husband and I share a car, and work opposite shifts, and we both have to commute quite a ways to get to work. So obviously I needed new tires because they were bald. The 1st alignment I got done because I went in the ditch and it was off just a little bit.

    And when I say small shop I'm not talking about a small toyota shop, I'm talking like a small family run garage.
  • I bought a nissan sentra about 5 years ago and immediately changed the oil to synthetic. I have changed the oil religiously every 7-8 thousand miles with synthetic oil car runs great.
    I have 1995 chevy truck and a 2000 hyundai elantra which I did the same and all these vehicles run great.
    I just purchased a 2002 toyota corolla le and I am going to synthetic oil changes immediately.
  • fev1fev1 Posts: 4
    I know this is almost a year post your post -- but the 2010 is still the latest model and I just bought my daughter the LE. Same confusion on DLR vs Headlights. I guess the DLR are the headlights and what's automatic is that the dash lights go on if it's dark out. No reason to have an "on" switch for the headlights except for those occassions when you might want the headlights on with the car turned off. The only complaint over the whole thing that I have is that the manual doesn't explain this at all !!! If you've learned anything else about this, please share.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    DLR are the (daytime running lights), their intensity adjust according to the amount of light outside. In total darkness they will be brighter than on a cloudy day. If you want full headlights on a cloudy type day you would use the headlight switch.
  • My 1990 Toyota Corolla’s headlights and turn signals are not working, but my high beams and hazard lights are. So far I’ve checked my fuses for both headlights and the headlight relay. All seem to be in fine working order. Now I’m out of ideas, got any suggestions?
  • In the 2010 manual, it says the cabin air filter is one of the self-maintenance items. Just changed mine, takes about 5 minutes or less (simple steps in the owners manual).
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    edited February 2011
    Yeah did replace that, this odor in discussion is a urine smell coming from the evaporator. It's present on 2009 and 2010 Corollas. They will replace the evaporator under warranty but it's a long five hour job for them to tear apart the complete interior dash to get to it. I just deal with the odor and try to allow the evaporator to dry out by turning the A.C. off a couple of minutes before turning the car off when using the A.C.
  • mole1mole1 Posts: 3
    Just clocked 100,000 miles on original clutch and no signs of significant wear so clearly using engine braking isn't all that bad and certainly safer.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Don't believe there's any vehicular laws on the books that mandate what gear you drive in as john 45 suggests. However,down shifting is not only expected when driving a manual shift vehicle but any professional driver will tell you it is the safest and only way to drive. Control of your vehicle is kept on all of the drive wheels by downshifting and keeping the car in a gear at all times, rather than just coasting.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    the rule of thumb I suggest is "don't shift into a lower gear unless you plan to use it for something".

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    As in engine braking ? ? ? ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    well if you NEED to use engine braking. Slamming the car in a lower gear 100 ft from a red light is just silly and tough on synchros.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    edited March 2011
    Interesting, so you're saying you would rather slam on your brakes alone a 100 ft. from a red light rather than down shifting to a lower gear to help you stop? I can also assume you would be disengaging the clutch at the same time to prevent a stall, correct? Doing that of course would leave all four wheels as free wheeling and under no control other than the brake right? Yikes ! Sounds like a recipe for disaster on a rain or ice coated highway. Downshifting is taught in commercial driving courses as essential to keep control of your vehicles drive wheels when braking at all times. Even in an automatic it is recommended to down shift into 2 or 1 (lower gear) to maintain vehicle control when descending a steep hill.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    Why do you have to slam on your brakes when slowing down for a stoplight?

    Besides, downshifting on ice, or anywhere for that matter, when engine revs are too high for the gear is a very bad idea, as you induce what they call in racing "compression braking".

    Any downshifting for braking purposes shouldn't be necessary on a level road.

    I never downshift unless I need the gear for something---to take a turn, out of a curve, going down a long hill, to pass someone, or if I'm way too slow for the gear i'm in---but in normal city driving---I never use the transmission as a brake, no.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I guess it's just how you were taught. After researching online I notice it's pretty evenly split between those that downshift regularly to stop the vehicle and those that just rely on the brakes to stop. I myself like to keep my drive wheels engaged whenever my car is moving. But to each his or her own.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I have to correct myself, I found out after researching that there actually are "anti-coasting" laws in some of the United States.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    Brakes are a whole lot cheaper than transmissions. If you use the transmission solely as a braking device you are applying the full moving mass of the car onto the gears and synchros. Naturally, if you are just putting along in 4th gear on a city street and you apply the brakes, you might also downshift so that the car doesn't buck from "lugging" but there's no reason you need to use the transmission to brake the car in straight line, level, city driving.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I was willing to accept the fact that everyone drives differently for whatever reason or because of how they were taught. But if by your example, of "brakes being cheaper than transmissions" you are insinuateing that engine braking is bad for the transmission I would have to vehemently have to disagree with you. I have been driving manual shifting cars and trucks for many many years and have yet to replace either a trans. or a clutch for that matter. I have driven a Renault, V.W.,Capri,Corollas and many commercial trucks, all manuals, and many for over 100,000 miles and have downshifted for safety at each and every stop sign or stop light I have ever come across without problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    Well I guess at slow speeds that's okay. I'm talking about ramming it into a lower gear at high RPM without double-clutching, for no good reason. Perhaps we are talking about different scenarios.

    Generally you don't use downshifting for HARD braking unless you're racing of course, or you need that lower gear to do something else.

    But driving at 45 mph, seeing a red light, and slamming it into 2nd to slow down is just brutalizing the car for no good reason IMO.

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  • I have had my Corolla for 2 days its brand new. And when i have the air on it makes a light grinding noise. any suggestions on what that is? should i take it in?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,966
    edited March 2011
    "what" makes the grinding noise exactly? You mean the compressor, or the fan, or ???

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I would definitely take it back in. Just sounds like the fan is hitting something. Try it with the heat and fan on full, does it still grind? If so it's the fan for sure, no biggie!
  • pauljakobpauljakob Posts: 6
    edited March 2011
    Ya when i turn off the air to 0 it slows down the metal ping/grind sound then stops totally. Otherwise the car rocks. but it sounds like metal grinding/ clanging.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Sounds like the fan for sure, take it back for a quick fix.
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