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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    If it happens everytime, then take it to dealer.
  • jean70jean70 Posts: 3
    Hi,
    Yes, I put the foot all the way, this is why I thought that adjusting the pedal would be easy to see if there is an effect, but I have not found the Haynes for the Corolla.
    So you think it is not related to the clutch but has something to do with the gear box itself ?
    I am on holiday at the moment, but I'll try to go to the garage asap.
    Sincerely,
    Jean
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Posts: 48
    When you take it back to the dealer they'll have a tech drive the car with you to see what the problem is. If they have to keep it just make sure you insist on a free loaner car. Just tell them that the car shouldn't be doing that and you want it fixed. If you feel like they're trying to screw you around or anything it doesn't hurt to get a bit nasty with them. And this is coming from a guy to got asked to leave a dealership yesterday while shopping for a car with a friend of mine. Yes I was able to tick off the sales manager/salesman that bad....lol
  • marcela112marcela112 Posts: 2
    Hi,
    The solution this problem is have the charcoal canister change. The canister has two purge valves to take the guess of know with one just replace the canister it comes with the 2 purge valves. The part # 77740-02102 for corolla 2000. once you call the dealer you will see they have it in stock they tell me this purge valves go bad on corollas.

    The charcoal canister is located by the fuel tank under the car. It looks like a back shoe box with hoses coming out of it. To reset the check engine light do it with the hand held machine or just unplug one of the battery terminals.

    The cost of the canister is around $250. this is a dealer part.

    Mike
  • ed6544ed6544 Posts: 6
    help needed. have a 99 corolla with dash lights (all instrumentation, radio, ac controls, even auto tranny indicator) that have totally gone kaput.
    any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.

    thanks.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Sounds like it might be a fuse. Have you checked them all?
  • ed6544ed6544 Posts: 6
    thanks for the reply.

    i did check the fuse.
    my brother uses the car, it turns out the (rheostat?)
    light intensity dial for dash lights was turned all the way down. (problem now solved).

    another question - that part of the instrumentation light on the rightmost side (the fuel gauge) is totally dark.
    might be a light bulb.
    has anyone had any experience replacing that light bulb?

    thanks.
  • I have a 2005 Corolla with 28K miles and an automatic transmission. I was looking through the maintainence book the other day to see when I should change the fluid and filter and found nothing. Is there a recommended mileage for which to change the transmission fluid? Or is this thing good for life?
  • nightattacknightattack Posts: 16
    There is no real recommendation (in the maintenence book) when to change the fluid. My 2005 auto Corolla also has 28K miles. I trying to find out if the transmission fluid needs to changed or flushed. Any Ideas out there?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    For older Corollas, I think the maintenance section of the owner's manual says to drain and fill the automatic transmission every 30k miles.

    Even though Toyota makes bullet-proof automatics (just like the rest of the car), automatics are still the weakest link of a car, and they cost a fortune to fix if they fail. (This one of the many reasons I drive a manual tranny!) With this in mind, I would still drain and fill the tranny to be on the safe side - at a dealer, it is about $45 to do this.

    If you get this done somewhere else, make sure to use ONLY the correct Toyota fluid!!!

    Also, I would not do a transmission flush - check around the net for horror stories!
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    92 Corolla died while just driving it in a parking lot. If ignition switch was turned to START it would start and run, even rev, but after releasing it to ON it dies. Took to Toyota dealer, they couldn't get any diagnostics output. Said there was power into the ECU but nothing coming out. They doubted it was the ECU since they say they never go bad. After 3 days of troubleshooting and not finding any problems they decided to start swapping parts and replaced the ECU with a used one. They said that fixed it. After driving it away from the lot and about 5min from home it died again doing the same thing. I assume ECU has died again. What could be causing this?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    ignition switch... was that checked? ;)
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    Yes, sorry forgot to mention I replaced that before I took it to the dealer. Thx
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    why did you replace the ignition switch prior to bringing it to the dealer?

    you know odder things have happened, but it's possible to have an original go bad, and a replacement to be defective.
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    All the info I could find from online and a mechanic friend of my father-in-law was pointing to the ignition switch. I thought I could save some money and fix it myself but decided to take it to a dealer when that failed. :(

    Yes, I'm thinking of getting another used one this weekend and see if the 3rd try really is a charm.
  • I changed ATF at 30,000 miles and it was gray and with a small amount of particles. I would strongly recommend doing it. It's very easy as there is no need to drop a pan. The only issue is cost: the toyota T-iV fluid is $5 a qt at dealership. It takes 3.5 qts.
    Corolla is designed as low maintenance car and can easly go 100,000 miles with no ATF changes. But, some of us want to keep the car longer.
  • khudflykhudfly Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2001 Corolla with 39k miles. It is a manual transmission. The last time I drove it (almost all highway) when I let off of the accelerator the valves (at least I think it is the valves) make a very loud clatter until engine RPM gets to idol.
    It will make the same noise while parked when the RPM's start dropping after revving the engine.
    It has plenty of oil and the oil light is not coming on.
    Could the oil pump be starting to go out or the screen is clogged with sludge, debris, etc...?
    Please help...last thing I want to do is pay for an engine tear down after purchasing the car...sadly with no warranty.

    Thanks,
    Khudfly
  • jnbrendajnbrenda Posts: 1
    Sometimes out of nowhere, when I turn on my 2003 Toyota Corolla, I hear a beeping noise, just like when you turn on your turning signal. Then the little blue light on the left side of the wheel starts blinking. The beeping won't go away all day. Then the next day it disappears. This has happened like once a week since I got it 3 weeks ago. I haven't installed an alarm yet. Someone told me that it's because it comes with a factory alarm..could this be it?
  • with the key off press and hold the trip reset button. turn the key to the on position (do not start engine) while still holding trip reset button. you will see dash marks count down(-----) to zero dashes. the light is now reset.

    hope this helps

    ryanburbridge
  • baltychenbaltychen Posts: 50
    Hi, need help.

    My driver side and passenger side window will drop 1/2" to 1" by themselves when I start to crank down the windows. The dealer said it is normal.

    Anyone has the same problem?? Thanks.
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