Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

1118119121123124126

Comments

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Absolutely not, in fact you could even replace them yourself if you so desired, as long as you keep all receipts from the place of purchase or the independent garage that replaces them for you.

    You don't need brake calipers already do you? I'm not sure, but that might even be a warranty covered part.
  • geodrivegeodrive Posts: 20
    Sorry for the confusion...
    No I don't need new Caliper...they are just going to service (oil and lubricate) the caliper while placing the new brake pads.

    Now the servicing of the Caliper is adding a good amount in the quotation...they just tried to freak me out saying that my break pads are good for nothing and it may hit the disc soon and then I will have to get the whole disc replaced....
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Well they certainly could be worn to that point. You want to replace them now before they groove the rotors. But still, anyone will spray your calipers while they're replacing your pads, just ask them. Shouldn't cost you any more.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    If you said $430. for front brake pads , that is pure ROBBERY. The brakes pads cost approx $20 to $50 at most local auto stores, and many local shops install them for approx around $40. plus cost to turn or replace the brake rotos. which turning rotos cost around $15. better try a independent auto repair shop.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited May 2011
    For $430 I would expect new pads and rotors, plus a brake fluid flush.
    I would not expect the need for all this on a 2 y.o. car.
    How many miles on this car? Aggressive stop-and-go driving?

    Many shops insist on replacing rotors along with pads.

    Definitely get a second opinion at an independent, non-chain shop.
  • geodrivegeodrive Posts: 20
    For sure they are not including Brake Fluid Flush in this cost.
    I don't know if there is any standard of labor rates at the Toyota dealerships or not. They seems to put any random $$ figure for any sort of labor.

    I have 56000 Km on my car and have factory installed pads+rotors. I am definitely not an aggressive driver.

    I checked with Canadian Tire. They said 99$ for the brake pads and an other 99$ if I would like them to grind and level the rotors. My only concern is that I am not sure what type of brake pads will Canadian Tire use and how long will they last.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited May 2011
    Ask Canadian if they will let you bring pads from the dealer for them to install.
    They may even order Toyota pads for you.

    It's a good idea to change the brake fluid every 3 years, 2 if you've got ABS

    Has Canadian looked at the car to confirm your pads are really worn down?

    A Toyota dealership tried to convince me my (manual) transmission oil was dirty 2000 miles after I had changed it myself.
  • etho1416etho1416 Posts: 18
    Has anyone changed the transmisstion fluid on a circa 2005 corolla automatic by themselves? Was it hard?

    I have looked online and it looks pretty easy, though some folks recommend taking the pan off to drain extra fluid and get out the metal shavings inside. And others recommend doing a full flush. Any thoughts?
  • 4barrel4barrel Posts: 4
    It is a very easy procedure. I have a 2005 Corolla. I just drain the pan once a year and refill, it takes about 3-1/2 quarts. I have had this vehicle since it had 10k miles on the odometer, once I reached 60k I became curious and removed the pan. My conclusion after removing the pan was that it was a waste of my time as the metal screen filter did not need to be cleaned as it did not have any debris built up in it and the pan did not have any debris/metal chips either. My conclusion is that if the transmission fluid was reasonably maintained on a regular basis than there is no real reason to pull the pan. I recently purchased a 2003 Echo with 90000k miles on the clock which has a similar type trans as the Corolla. I do not know the history of the maintenance of this vehicle so my curiosity once again got the best of me and I dropped the pan. I had the same results as my Corolla; a metal screen filter with no build up of shavings/debris and a pan that had no metal debris. The rest of the vehicle's life with me it will just get a drain and refill every other year as this does not get driven much as my Corolla.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    My thouights are just do a drain and refill, don't remove the pan. I would do this at 40,ooomile intervals. It's just like changing the oil. I've heard of too many tranmission problems that occurred after a flush and refill.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Wow, unless you're putting on a ton of miles every year, a yearly automatic transmission fluid change seems like overkill. Manufacturer automatic transmission drain and refill recommendations vary from 30K to 60K to NEVER (if you have Dexron III).
  • Hi all,

    I'm creeping up to the 90K mile mark on my 2001 Corolla. I got a quote from a mechanic in the area - he said it takes about 2 hours and will cost $300. Is this reasonable? How much did you pay for the 90K maintenance?

    (I'm sure I'll get suggestions to just do it myself for cheaper - but I don't have the equipment or expertise to do any of my own maintenance)

    Thanks
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    More information is needed.
    Please list the services the mechanic is suggesting.
    How does it compare to the list in the Owner's Manual?

    I would do only what's in the manual, with two exceptions:
    Change (don't flush) the transmission fluid/oil every 30k miles.
    Change the brake fluid every 3 years, or maybe 2 years if you have ABS.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I know this is not what you want to hear but I have an 2001 LE with 58,000 miles on it and all I ever do is change the oil/filter every 3000 miles and I drained and refilled the transmission fluid one time. At 60,000 I'll change the original plugs.

    This car as well as all of my Toyotas have given me excellent service and I don't do much to them. I just picked up a 2004 Tacoma to add to my stock. It's at the dealer getting a new frame put under it. I only had a small half dollar size whole in the frame due to premature rust and Toyota is putting a brand new frame under it at a cost to them of $11,000.00 I now have a 94 Voyager, 91 Miata, 01 Corolla, 09 Corolla and a 04 Tacoma.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    2004 Corolla has no timing belt, it has a timing chain which never needs replacement unless you do an engine rebuild.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Sir, first of all you can not see and inspect the timing belt unless you remove the plastic cover, and second I believe that year engine doesn't have a toming belt , it has a timing chain, which hardly ever needs replaced, Third you must have beem looking at the outter belts that are on the front of the engine, which rotate your Alt. air conditioning and etc. and if they needed replaced your dealer should have told you and asked you if you wanted them replaced, Fourth. if you where not there wait while they worked on your car maybe they tryed to get ahole of you and could no, to let you know and ask you if you want it done. And it is not neglect by them if you only had your car there to replace the water pump.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Can not inspect timing chain by removing the plastic engine cover.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,918
    Apart from the fact that this particular part doesn't exist on this model, I totally understand that failing to replace something ELSE on the vehicle puts a shop in a no-win situation.

    If they had recommended fixing/replacing parts that are at the end of their lifespan, the customers complain about constant attempts to upsell them on "unnecessary" parts and services - stuff that's not broken... yet. If they don't, then they're neglectful. The best way to avoid feeling either end of the spectrum is to establish a relationship with a shop you trust.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I got into an accident yesterday and my right wheel hit the curb when i ran off the road. my front tires are facing inward my rear right tire is also facing inward. I already know i need a new wheel and tire for the front right and I was told the axle hit my frame he could tell by the way it was bent, so im guessing i need a new axle the part that holds my wheel to the azle is all bent and loose.. im trying to figure out if my insurance would total it or not. my car was 12k when i bought it in sept. and i know when u drive it off the lot the value is decreased. Does anyone know if my damage and if any damage that cant be physically seen might make total it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Oh I doubt they'd total it. Sounds like you're going to need, aside from new tires and wheels, a rear axle spindle or perhaps a new rear axle, which is a pretty simple affair on a FWD car---the rear axle is basically just a straight tube and holds the wheels one.

    The tricky part is assessing how much front suspension damage was done---perhaps upper and lower control arms, maybe even subframe....but still, your car is worth north of $12K or so, (depending on mileage, condition and history) and therefore I can't see a total here, especially since there appears to be no body damage.

    Modern frame machines, in the right hands, can make a car as good as new.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    good luck. Let us know what the estimate is.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 83
    I just recently bought a 2010 Corolla and I love the car. Easy to park, comfortable, great mpgs, etc. However, I have a quick question regarding the steering. I don't have a problem with the EPS (I don't think) because I don't notice a need to over-correct the steering at high speeds at all with the car. However, at speeds under 15 mpg I hear the steering wheel a lot. There's no buzzing or clicking or anything. I just hear the steering wheel whirr whenever I turn it at under those speeds. I don't hear the steering wheel moving at all in my sister's '06 Civic or my mom's '10 Legacy. Is it just the electric power steering or something?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Yes, this is the electric power steering.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    In the traditional power steering system the pump is the only spinning component, and it's separated and some distance from the steering column and passenger compartment.
    So you won't hear it unless something is wrong.

    However the electric motor is near or on the steering rack or column.
    So it's harder to isolate the sound.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 83
    Thank you all for your response! I hadn't noticed it until I drove my mom and she asked what the sound was!

    I have one more question. The car has been running fine (no lights on, etc) and I've filled up the tank 3 times since I bought it...34 (75%hwy/25%city, the highway miles including 4 other adults and AC on!) and 31 the next 2 fill ups (about 90%city/10%hwy) each time. Pretty impressive!

    Buuuut, there's a buzzing coming from somewhere by the driver side window. I have rolled down the window and although the sound isn't quite as noticeable, it's still there (I don't think it's related to the window, but I'm not sure). I've tried to isolate where the buzzing is coming from, but it's really only noticeable >40mph and it's hard to look at your B pillar at that speed for any length of time! It sounds like it's either coming from the B pillar area or right above the driver's side window. Any idea what might cause this, or should I see a mechanic?
  • james2011james2011 Posts: 12
    The button on the door panel that locks/unlocks the doors, depressed all the way down into the door the last time I locked it. I barely touched it, but down it went. It is not in warranty. What can be done that does not cost $$$$$ ?

    I can still lock it with the key Fob, but not by pressing on this as it is too far down.
  • Hello again! Got another question...
    So I have a 2010 Corolla. I bought the car used as a previous rental with 9500 miles for under $15k a few months ago, which was a stellar deal at the time with used car prices being ridiculous. I don't have any lights on my dash, but I have a question about the brakes. I notice that when braking over uneven road (paved or unpaved) the brake pedal sometimes feels like it's shaking. I get the same feeling when braking suddenly. However it doesn't happen under normal braking (haven't gotten the chance to test it out on wet pavement). I took it to the dealership and they said the brakes were fine and that it is just the ABS system doing its job. Is this true? I have driven cars with ABS and I haven't felt the actual pedal vibrate before. Should I take it to a mechanic and get the drums/rotors checked out? I don't know how I feel about the Toyota dealership I bought the car from. I went back 2 weeks after I bought the car because of a rattle from the driver side seatbelt pillar (B pillar). They couldn't find the rattle. Went back again a month later and they said they found the rattle and repaired it but it's still there...
  • That is in fact the ABS system you are experiencing. Some cars are more sensitive than others. I've never experienced the ABS on my wife's 04 corolla but I do all the time in my truck. Tires and driving style can also play rolls in an overly sensitive ABS system. If they still put good years on that car ditch them as soon as you can.

    As for the dash lights have you checked to see if they got turned down? Sometimes while cleaning you can hit the knob and turn them off. My wife has done it a few times. If the adjustment knob is fine check the fuses.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I think they mean no dash warning lights for the braking system.
Sign In or Register to comment.